owe to God, and to our only Mediator and Intercessor. We hold the Virgin's name in respect, as the mother of our Redeemer; but we see in the phrase of "Dei Genetrix" nothing but a perverse and reprehensible union of words, tending to confuse ideas which cannot be kept too distinct from each other, in the minds of those who are sincerely attached to the sound doctrine of Christ's Divinity. In the words of the angelic salutation, we acknowledge "Mary, full of Grace:" but we do not believe that any power, pre-eminence, or authority was given to her over the rest of the faithful. And in holding these opinions, we consider ourselves justified by the express declaration of the Saviour himself, who, when a woman in his hearing exclaimed, that the womb which bare and the breast which nourished HIM were blessed, replied "Yea, rather blessed are they that hear the Word of God and keep it."

In the afternoon, renewing our visit to the Cathedral, we found (it being Sunday) the aisles on each side next the walls, partitioned off with hangings of dark cloth from the body of the church. Those to the south were occupied by a numerous assemblage of males; whilst those to the north were filled by an equally numerous concourse of females. The men and boys were divided into several different classes, to each of which a young missionary was delivering a sort of divinity lecture. was only by a momentary peep behind the close-drawn curtain, that we could perceive on the opposite side, the Sœurs de la charité instructing the women and girls. But to the others we had free admission. And it is justice to the suitable and orderly proceedings of these elementary schools of Romish Theology, to say that the

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persuasive earnestness of the teachers' manner and discourse was equalled by the mute eagerness of devoted attention shewn by their respective auditories. Among the subjects treated of, we could catch here and there a word or two on the benefits of masses as well for the dead as for the living; on the efficaciousness of the Rosary; and on the holy life and saintly glorification of Charles Borromeo. There was certainly nothing in this to justify the notion that Popery on the continent is left to sink or swim as chance and fashion may order. So far as we have yet seen, it stands in no need either of ready tongues to recite, or of open ears to imbibe, its glozing tales of error and superstition.

At a later period of the evening we made another visit to the Duomo, where a large and well-dressed congregation was assembled outside the choir, to hear the Litany to the Virgin, the Ambrosian chant accompanied by the organ, and an extempore sermon delivered from one of the bronze pulpits by a young Jesuit, of the name of Marvelli. The stile of preaching is so totally different from any thing we are accustomed to in England, that I know not what to compare it to. The inflections of tone amount nearly to recitativo; and there is a peculiar catch or suatch at the beginning of each sentence, which is always taken at the top of the voice. A great deal of action is used. Long pauses from time to time ensue in the discourse; and the general air is declamatory even to a theatrical pitch. Here, as at St. Eustorgio, the generality of the individuals composing the religious assembly were looking unconcernedly about them on all sides. And so little did the concierge himself, who was conducting us past the crowded benches, care about disturbing devo

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tion, that he would, if we had been content to participate in the flagrant indecorum, have performed his office of cicerone in the face of the congregation; and have shewn off the sculptures near the tabernacle, whilst the sanctuary behind it was resounding with the vesper-bymn of the Churchmen.

In the course of our wanderings, we passed through the court of the Seminario, or College of Theology, a spacious building having like the Brera its quadrangle formed of two lofty ranges of pillars one above the other. We likewise traversed the spacious arcades of the Great Hospital, an institution for the sick, of great extent, richly endowed, and said to be extremely well conducted. In the open space before the Borso, or Exchange, the Austrians have stationed a couple of field-pieces, with their requisite complement of caissons and artillery men! Not very appropriate ornaments to a place where, it might from the name be inferred that, "merchants most do congregate." It is however the parvis of the Cathedral that appears to be the favourite focus of daily assembly for the commercial folks.

The public pavement is uniformly good; and in some respects superior to any I have seen. The sides are formed of large flag-stone with granite curbs, laid with singular exactness. In the carriage-way, double lines of the same flat stone are also placed as even as a roomfloor: the wheels roll upon these, whilst the horses proceed along on small and smooth pebbles between them. The motion of vehicles through the streets of this city is thereby rendered extraordinarily easy; and instead of the usual rattling noise, a gentle rumbling sound alone is heard. This is enumerated among the conveniences intro

duced here by Buonaparte. It is strange that he should not have done the same thing for Paris. But Italy, more than France, seems with him to have been the field for improvement.

Milan is a populous,* lively, handsome capital; and during the three days we passed in it, our visits to the Corso, the Theatre, and other places of public resort, impressed us with the conviction that it must be an extremely pleasant city to reside in. The equipages are more numerous, as well as more splendid, in comparison with the size of the place, than at Paris; and the nobility and gentry apparently more wealthy. Our occasional inspection of the shops, and cursory notice of the manufactures, induced us to form an equally favourable opinion of the industry and ingenuity of the working classes.

"La beauté (says M. Reichard) n'est pas généralement le partage des femmes de ce pays." On this critical authority, and with English subjects of reminiscence and comparison in my mind's eye, I may venture to add my own opinion that the natural charms of the sex, as distinguishable in form, feature, or complexion, are very sparingly distributed among the Milanaises. In truth, the women of the middling and lower orders are for the most part exceedingly plain. As to the ladies of quality, so much has always been said and sung of their captivations, that in nothing perhaps will our precipitation or our ill

"Milan is after Rome and Naples, one of the largest cities in Italy, and its walls now enclose a population of 130,000 souls, in a circuit of about ten miles."-Reichard.-In 1646, according to Evelyn, this place contained near 100 churches, 71 monasteries, and only 40,000 inhabitants.

'+ They make articles of silk, glass, porcelain, goats’-hair, rock chrystal, &c. &c.

luck be more exposed than in the acknowledgment of our having failed to witness any very captivating specimens of feminine loveliness (fine black EYES excepted) in that elegant and elevated class.

The humidity that prevails at the commencement of winter, and the excess of cold when the weather sets in to be severe, are alleged as objections to this place for a residence, however pleasant it appears to be in other respects. It is the vicinity of the Alps, that occasions the general rigour of the winters here. A biting Tramontane blowing over their glaciers brings with it, even as early as November, some of the coldest weather: this is occasionally followed by a long succession of rain and fogs: then frost ensues; and heavy falls of snow cover the whole face of the country. At these times, (I am told) you will see the peasants loaded with ice of two and three inches in thickness, coming into town from the meadows, to provide the citizens with the means of resisting the intense heat of the summer. Without the assistance of ice-houses the butchers could not preserve their meat through the day.

It appears that there are few families of a certain class, which have not one villa or more, on the banks of the lakes at the foot of the Alps, whither they depart in autumn to spend the villeggiatura, and to superintend the vintage and gathering of the other fruits. Thence they return for the enjoyment of the converzatione and the theatre. From what we could learn, the nobility and gentry of Milan have to seek all their amusements within themselves the vice-regal court adding but little to the splendour of the place and still less to the gratification of its inhabitants. If I were to go on, and assert, that the sight

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