« ՆախորդըՇարունակել »
to have been taken from the ruins of the Temple of the Sun, on which this Christian Church of St. Peter's at Geneva is, by the learned, supposed to bave been built.*
Besides the Cathedral, there are three other places of worship, dedicated to the service of the Protestant Religion, happily the still ascendant and prevailing one in Geneva. A fourth church, however, is assigned to the use of that peculiar persuasion “ the sincere members of which (as Mr. Blanco White says and proves in his valuable workt) cannot conscientiously be tolerant.”And this very day it has been the scene of a grand cere. monial. I was not informed of the circumstance in time to be enabled to witness it; but, from a friend who was himself a spectator, I learnt that the bones of a Popish Saint were displayed with pomp and parade enough to make those of a Genevese reformer rattle in his grave: a pomp and parade of relic-honour to which the dem scendants of old Calvin's and Beza's disciples, in this place of their nativity and theatre of their successful ministry, are as yet but little if at all accustomed. Some months back, Monsieur Vuarin, the curé of the Roman Catholic Church, accompanied by the Abbé de la Memai, travelled to the Vatican ; on which occasion Leo the Twelfth, for the edification of “the Faithful," more numerous now than ever in this heretical republic, f presented
Julins Cæsar alludes to Geneva in his Commentaries, and speaks of it as a town of the Allobroges, at that time a Roman Province. It was to this city that Cæsar went to resist the attempted emigration of the Helvetians. † Practical and Internal Evidences against Catholicism.
“ The addition of several Roman Catholic parishes makes the members of that Church, within the territory of Geneva, amount to about one half the number of the Protestants."-Waring.
to the Curé some ossemens of a canonized inartyr or confessor, named Nemesion. These precious fragments, which had been suffered for centuries to rest in peace at Rome, were lately transported to Geneva: and they were this day deposited in a chapel dedicated to the dead man's honour.-All the Catholic Priests of the canton and its neighbourhood assembled at the church betimes in the morning, to the number of between sixty and seventy; and the Bishop of Bellay, accompanied by his two Grand Vicars, came on purpose to officiate on so important an occasion, and confer due splendour on so imposing a spectacle! *
Our perambulation finished with a visit to the Hotel de Ville, erected in 1618, but in whose construction, like that of all the rest of the public edifices in Geneva, embellishment seems disregarded and utility alone studied. The escalier of this town-house is formed not of steps but of inclined planes, by which one might with ease mount all the way up on horseback. The water pumped by the hydraulic machine in the Rhone, ascends to the top of this singular staircase, whence it descends again into the different fourtains of the city.
In the entrance hall of the Hotel de Ville is an inscription prefaced with the motto, “Tria protegit unus," allusive to the Reformation, wbich lost Geneva the friendship of Fribourg, but in 1584 obtained for it the greater advantage of a perpetual alliance with the cantons of Berne and Zurich, and was thus the means of confederating this Republic with the Helvetic Body. There is a
• The Gazette de Lausanne of the 5th of August, noticing this affair, says, “ Nous esperons que les journaux qui sont si amérement élevés contre l'intolérance des Protestans, voudront, par erratum, recueillir cet article."
room which they call La-Chambre-de-la-Reine, because it contains a portrait of our Queen Anne; presented to the city by that Princess. In the same small apartment are whole lengths of Louis XV. and XVI. the King of Prussia (Father of the Great Frederick) and his Queen, and the late King of Sardinia. The chamber of the State Council (Conseil-d'Etat), is as plain and dull a room as twenty-five“ potent, grave, and reverend” Magistrates, chosen to make laws for and to watch over the safety of a Republic, perhaps ever sat in. The Grand Council, or Council of Representatives (Conseil Représentatif), holds its sittings in a larger and a better lighted but equally unadorned apartment.* .
In the evening by appointment I paid a visit to Monsieur Rousseau, nephew and only surviving descendant of Jean Jacques; and who himself unites sound sense, extensive information, and good breeding, to that frankly communicative and obliging disposition, which at once invites and repays the confidence of friendship. Mr. R. apparently between 60 and 70 years of age, is somewhat below the middle stature, of light complexion, and stout. He is a Member of the Representative Council, and bears a character of high respectability among his fellowcitizens of Geneva.-Madame Rousseau, considerably younger than her husband, is a lady of Irish extraction, but by birth a Parisienne: a woman of pleasing and polished manners, she manifests but too clearly in the delicate expression of her small regular features the languor consequent on continued ill health. The party besides my kind host and hostess and myself, consisted of Mademoiselle V. sister to Madame R. and three young Gentlemen from Oxford. The time passed very pleasantly between music and conversation; in which the national airs of England, France, and Switzerland were vocally reciprocated by mutual solicitation; and the merits of the three respective countries supported with fairness, yet with fondness, by the natives of each. .
* For a sketch of the present Constitution of Geneva, see Chapter XIV.
This worthy couple no longer exist. Mr. Rousseau died in December, 1825 : and his widow survived him not more than two months.
Mr. Rousseau's residence, being in the street called Derrière-le-Rhone, commands a noble prospect, looking in a N. N. E. direction. The clear dark blue water of the lake washes the lower wall of the house, and eight or nine miles of its extent were immediately before us, the rest being hid by a projecting point of land on the right or Savoy side; where we see the village of Coligni, and among numerous other country seats, the house once occupied by Lord Byron :* behind these an alpine range appears. On the left the Jura gradually approaches, or seems to approach the borders, which make a verdant and profuse display of woods and cultured uplands, studded with babitations.
As I was looking with unsated feelings of enjoyment at the scenery of this interesting spot, one of the bateauxd-vapeur arrived full of passengers; and in gallant trim, with colours flying, entering the Redoute des Barques, anchored close under the windows of our apartment.The vessel bad completed its voyage, out by the Pays-deVaud side of the lake and home by the Savoy coast, in about fourteen hours, starting from Geneva at six o'clock in the morning. The introduction of a steam boat on this water took place about two years and a half ago.It was the speculation of an Englishman, and was soon found to answer so well, that the good people of Geneva, albeit unused to the enterprising mood, have not only built a second vessel themselves, but also bought the former of our countryman. And thus a voyage round the lake, which Addison states to have taken him nearly five days to make, with a pretty fair wind, is now with ease and certainty performed in one. These two steam vessels were, as far as my observation went, the only things worthy of being termed nautical in the port of this place!
* " His principal amusement during his residence in this romantic spot, consisted in sailing on the lake of Geneva, and be sometimes extended his aquatic excursions (always from child-hood a favourite recreation) to other parts of Switzerland. His imagination was so full of the stupendous scenery by which he was surrounded, that he seemed wholly absorbed in the contemplation of them, and to wish for no other company than his own reflections. Switzerland abounded in rich materials for his genius to work upon, and he did not fail to store his mind with conceptions of the grand and magnificent for future occasions." -Life, wrilings, opinions, and times of Lord Byron. Vol. 1, p. 301,
August 2d.-This morning early, we went to the top of the Cathedral. The bold unterminating line of the Jura, broken only in that part where the Rhone takes its course into France—the beautiful expanse of the lake, and the delicious prospect of its fertile shores—the confluence of the Arve with the Rhone--the grandeur and variety of the Savoy mountains both far and near, combine to render this one of the most superb of panoramas.
On the wall of St. Peter's church is a meridian line, which is drawn in such a way, that during one half of the year, when the shadow falls thereupon it is noon : there is another line for the other half-year. These serve respectively to regulate the clock of the cathedral, in the