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mixture of arable, pasture, and woodland, with every token of agricultural industry and of a thriving population, stretches itself immediately beneath the spectator's eye. Beyond this beautiful fore-ground first rise the lesser mountains, with crops at their feet, forests on their sides, and cultivation on their very tops-the different openings and divisions of this nearest range partially reveal loftier hills and deeper vallies. It is thus that, by degrees each sign of vegetation ceasing, the more distant prospect offers no other view than that of a farstretched line of bleak and horrid crags, the firm foundations on which, in numerous array, with shapes the most various and aspects the most sublime, stand the inaccessible "Giants of the Frost." To the right, the Doldenhorn, the Blumelis-alp, the Breithorn; to the left, the Wetterhorn,* the Schreck-horn, the Finstaarhorn, the Eigher, the Gross Mönch; and nearly in the centre of the matchless group, still superior to all these conspicuously elevated peaks, we see

"The soaring JUNG-FRAU rear

"Her never-trodden snow."

August 9.—It was market-day; and the street in which our hotel (the Falcon) stands, presented in the morning a crowded assemblage of the paysannes. Their costume is so singular as to demand notice, although mere verbal description must necessarily fail to convey any exact idea of it:—a gown, or rather petticoat, generally of dark blue or black, with a narrow bordering of scarlet or crimson at

* The word horn in German, which bears the same signification as in the English tongue, is applied to the highest peaks, as in French aiguille, or needle.

the bottom; the body is very short-waisted and without sleeves; a white dress covers the neck, fastened at the throat with a collar of black velvet, with or without decorations and the sleeves, which in fulness exceed those of a man's shirt, and exhibit both fineness and whiteness, are fastened a little above the elbow, leaving the arms bare. The hair, dressed very plain and close, is parted off the forehead, and behind is divided into two large plaited tresses, to each of which a broad ribband is attached, that reaches down some inches below the petticoat. But the peculiar feature in the dress of the Bernese countrywomen is the cap, consisting of a small circlet of black silk or velvet, fastened to the back of the head; whence springs a frame of wire, supporting a fabric of black gauze, the reticulations of which, in a front view, diverge from the face, as rays from a centre: they are however rays, not of light but of shade, unsuited to beam around a fair complexion; and serving only to display a tanned or wrinkled countenance to the greatest possible disadvantage. The lower classes of townswomen at Berne, as well as the female peasantry, wear the dress above described, including this cobweb coiffure, which is certainly the least fascinating part. But when, for that grotesque appendage, they substitute the neat little turned-up hat of yellow straw (or sometimes a larger one of black chip), its crown, embellished with bows of ribband and with flowers, the ensemble is very becoming to a good figure and a handsome face, many of which we saw among the lasses of Berne; who have decidedly the advantage of their rustic compatriotes in those respects. Some of the better sort of peasant-servants in the place wear spencers or jackets of green, but more

generally of black velvet, which, contrasted with their well bleached linen and the neatness of their chaus

sure, have a pleasing appearance. To give a killing finish to their best attire, they attach silver chains to their collars, which, passing under the arms, are brought round to the front of the boddice, and the ends, ornamented with tassels, are suspended on each side the bosom.

There is a Bernese village, called Guggisberg, situated near the confines of the canton of Fribourg, which is inhabited by a remarkable race of people: the men have completely the look of the roughest mountaineer tribe. The women, whose occupations are nearly as laborious as those of the other sex, in tending cattle amidst alpine pasturages, have, for the greater facility of ascending their native rocks, so "curtailed the petticoat of its fair proportion," that the denuded limb, above the stocking and its scarlet garter, is rendered distinctly visible as they walk along. We saw several of these women at market; of whom it must suffice to say, that as their toilette had not been made before "the glass of fashion," so neither in their persons did we recognise "the mould of form."

In the course of the morning, in different parts of the town, we noticed several gangs of malefactors, strong healthy looking fellows; some of whom were harnessed to tumbrils; others employed in loading those vehicles with the dirt and rubbish which they had been sweeping up in the streets. It is by this means that at Berne the labour of criminals, belonging to the whole canton, and condemned to detention in the large prison, is made subservient to the preservation of public cleanliness. The men are classified according to age and the nature of offences. But thus to witness human beings, in their

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was excellent; through a district ly; a succession of easy slopes and covered with orchards, corn, t very striking resemblance to remark in the softer scenery of of every class charm the eye, rtment of their inhabitants las, whose situation and rnished at about 127.

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y of the country seats, it was built in the French chateau stile, quadrangular, its high coved roof pierced with attic windows. It had a large garden and orchard, and near it farming offices with a proportionate quantity of land, for all which the tenant paid about 157. per month. These campagnes are usually situated at the foot of some richly foliaged hill, by the side of a lawn or fine piece of herbage, belted in with trees, fenced with neat rails, and approached in every direction by good path-ways, sheltered with embowering shrubs. The village of Roubigen is an extremely pretty spot, where M. Steiguer, a gentleman who, we were told, holds a military post in his Britannic Majesty's service, has a residence, built on a small scale but in a stile of very genteel accommodation and in good taste. The inn at Roubigen, with its curiously carved galleries, is remarkably neat.-The road passes in picturesque windings over hill and dale. We looked on each side into smiling vallies-clumps of fruit trees, and groves of fine timber relieve the sameness of

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