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CHAPTER XXVIII.

COBLENTZ-Fortress of Ehrenbreitstein-Monument of the Campaign to Moscow-Weissenthurm; Hoche's Monument-Andernach-Castle of Hammerstein-Transverse Vallies-Brohl and Breisig--Castles of Rheineck and Argenfels--Mountainous Borders-Feudal Architecture-Sinzig--Remagen-Castle of Rolandseck--The Seven Mountains--Rafts--Observations on Rhine Scenery.

COBLENTZ

was filled with troops, assembling from various quarters for grand reviews and manœuvres, in the then hourly expected presence of the Prussian Monarch.— Owing to this circumstance my first two applications at inns for a night's lodging were unsuccessful. The Drei Schweizer (Three Swiss) had no hospitality to shew me; the Goldner Apfel (Golden Apple) proved forbidden fruit; to the kind intervention of a perfect stranger, I was ultimately indebted for a more prompt and comfortable reception, than my own unassisted endeavours would have enabled me to procure, at the Schwarze Bär (Black Bear).

Next morning, in the troublesome but indispensable business of disembarking a carriage from the passageboat, and of passing effects at the custom-house, I was assisted by Monsieur l'Aubergiste de l'Ours Noir, who proved to be, no black bruin but, a well behaved and obliging sort of man.-With him as a guide I afterwards visited the principal streets and squares of this fine town,

the former of which are tolerably wide and the houses well built.* In the very spacious Place d'armes at the south-west extremity, I saw the Prussian Artillery corps exercising in battalion manœuvres: a remarkably tall fine set of men, whose marching shewed the perfection of the lock step but I am disposed to doubt whether rising so high on the toes and planting the foot so forcibly on the ground are equally applicable to field movements, with the light airy motion of the French, or the firm yet easy step of our English infantry. In another square called the Place Plan the Landwehr had their drill under officers of the Prussian Guards. Squadrons of Cavalry and a large train of Artillery were also pouring from Cologne and Bonn into the town, which thus assumed somewhat too much of the proud clatter and pompous confusion of "glorious war" to suit the taste of a peaceable traveller.

By my civil host's introduction I obtained a sight of the house where the King resides, and which was preparing for his immediate reception. The windows of the principal apartments command a delightful view of the Rhine and vicinity. In one of the saloons is a large picture just finished by Meister, a young artist of the city, who has done himself credit by the manner in which he has painted Frederick William at the battle of Kulm.+ The King's portrait is the front one of an equestrian group,

* Coblentz contains 11,500 inhabitants.

↑ A strong position near Toplitz, on the mountainous range which separates Bohemia from Saxony, and where in the eventful and sanguinary campaign of 1813, the Allied Army commanded by the King of Prussia in person, attacked and defeated the French. The immediate fruits of the victory were the capture of Vandamme and six other General Officers, all his baggage, 60 pieces of artillery, and about 10,000 prisoners.

of which a Russian General (Miloradovitch) an Austrian Commander (Coloredo), and a Prussian Officer (General Kleist) are the other principal figures.-The personal likeness of the Sovereign is very good; the painter has been particularly successful in giving to his countenance that cast of melancholy thoughtfulness which so strikingly marks the original. In the same room there is a Magdalen by Richter, another living artist; a well executed production, in point of design and of expression.

Two of my fellow-passengers on board the Rhine-boat, the one a native of the Pays de Vaud, the other a resident of Munich, had the urbanity and good-heartedness to interest themselves in gratifying the curiosity of a solitary Englishman. And, whilst I was otherwise engaged, they took care to have me included in a card of admission obtained from the Governor to view the Ehrenbreitstein, that "like a giant refreshed" lifts again his mural crown over Coblentz, after having experienced the fluctuating issues and reverses of the revolutionary war.

Besieged without success by Marceau, in 1795; uninjured by the cannonade of the succeeding year; afterwards surprised and starved into a surrender, which the prowess of Hoche would never have wrested from the bravery of Faber, if Austria and Prussia had been as true to their own interests in 1799 as, instructed by dearbought wisdom, they proved themselves to be in 1814Ehrenbreitstein till 1800 remained

"A tower of victory! from whence the flight
"Of baffled foes was watched along the plain:

"But Peace destroyed what War could never blight,
"And laid those proud roofs bare to summer's rain-
"On which the iron shower for years had pour'd in vain,”

This however is one of the fortresses, in furnishing the funds for whose reparation the French have been made to pay for their fun in blowing it up soon after the conclusion of the peace of Luneville. And for the last eight years the King of Prussia's engineers have been employing numerous hands on the fortifications, with a view to their restoration-a work which it is expected will require six more years to achieve, according to the present design. Superior in strength, magnificence, and extent, to its former state, the execution of the projected works will render it one of the completest as well as strongest fortresses in the world.

A fine bridge of boats now leads from Coblentz to the left bank of the Rhine. To defray the cost of this great improvement upon the pont volant which formerly vibrated at the same point between the two shores, a toll-house bas been erected at the head of the bridge, where the dues are regularly collected from every passenger. Crossing over to the small town of Thal Ehrenbreitstein, we traversed a single street, and found ourselves at the first gate of the formidable castle, situated on a cliff, whose foot is washed by the Rhine, and insulated on the other side by the valley of Thal. The river-face of the rock is nearly perpendicular; having only a narrow path between the base and the water, which is however effectually commanded by the works above. The court of entrance is occupied with barracks and store-houses, and a battery whose cannon and mortars are directed towards Coblentz. The road thence proceeds parallel with the river for about two hundred yards, then turning sharp in a contrary direction, it ascends for about a hundred yards to the second gate, which has a small drawbridge, portcullis,

and flanking parapets: in a word every thing that can serve to strengthen and defend it.

At the height of some 80 or 100 feet above this point, a lower ridge of the upper rock facing the river commands these approaches, particularly the one to the second gate; so that, from the excavations, grenades and other combustibles could be flung down on assailants. Arrived within this gate you have another turn to make to the left, which is equally well defended.-The third draw-bridge and gate being passed, you continue an upward course along an excellent carriage-road through masses of solid masonry worked into the projections of rock, and strongly vaulted. To a soldier's eye this gallery must offer a specimen of military architecture that cannot fail to be in the highest degree interesting: civilian as I am, it was impossible for me to contemplate such a stupendous effort of human labour, accomplishing the designs of the boldest genius, without a lively feeling of astonishment and admiration.-Here a Veteran Artilleryman was appointed to conduct us through the various works that cover the extensive plateau on the summit of the rock; a detailed account of which would fill a volume. The ammunition and stores are lodged in artificial caverns; and the buildings are bomb-proof. In all directions were to be seen hundreds of howitzers, mortars, and guns of every calibre. A well has been cut through the rock into an abundant spring; and with an ample supply of provisions the place under a faithful commandant and a brave garrison must be impregnable. The kitchen has a cooking machine, heated by steam, which supplies the dinners and other meals for fifteen hundred men.-To facilitate the operation of raising materials to the summit, an

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