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is a market house of the 16th century. A considerable agricultural trade is carried on, and cattle-shows and fairs are held. The river Ant provides a route southward to the Norfolk Broads. The coast village of Mundesley, 5 m. N.E. by a branch railway, is in favour as a watering-place, having fine sands beneath the cliffs. In the district between this and North Walsham are Paston, taking name from the family which is famous through the Paston Letters (q.v.), and the fragments of Bromholm Priory, a Cluniac foundation. These are of various dates from Norman onwards, but are incorporated with farm buildings. The rood of Bromholm was a reputed fragment of the Cross which attracted many pilgrims. To the south of North Walsham is North Walsham Heath, whither in June 1381 a body of insurgents in connexion with the Peasants' Revolt were driven from before Norwich by Henry le Despenser, bishop of Norwich, and defeated; after which their leader, Geoffrey Lister, and others were sent to the scaffold.

NORTH-WEST FRONTIER PROVINCE, the most northerly province of British India, created on the 25th of October 1901. Roughly it may be defined as the tract of country N. of Baluchistan, lying between the Indus and Afghanistan. More exactly it consists of (1) the cis-Indus district of Hazara; (2) the comparatively narrow strip between the Indus and the hills constituting the settled districts of Peshawar, Kohat, Bannu and Dera Ismail Khan; and (3) the rugged mountainous region between these districts and the borders of Afghanistan, which is inhabited by independent tribes. This last region is divided into five agencies: Dir, Swat and Chitral, with headquarters at Malakand; Khyber, Kurram, Tochi and Wana. The province lies between 31° 4′ and 36°. 57′ N., and 69° 16′ and 74° 7′ E. The approximate area is 38,665 sq. m., of which 13,193 sq. m. are British territory and the remainder is held by tribes under the political control of the Agent to the Governor-General. On the N. it abuts on the Hindu Kush. To the S. it is bounded by Baluchistan and Dera Ghazi Khan district of the Punjab, on the E. by Kashmir and the Punjab, and on the W. by Afghanistan.

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a rough country with but little cultivation, under the political control of Peshawar. West and south-west of the Khyber again is the country of the Afridis and the Orakzais. The boundary of the province here follows the line of the Safed Koh, which overlooks the Afridi Tirah and the upper Kurram valley. Dotted with towered hamlets and stately chinar groves the valley of the Kurram runs south-east from the Peiwar Kotal (below the great peak of Sikaram), to Bannu. South of the Kurram is the Tochi valley, separating it past Thal in the Miranzai valley, through the southern Kohat hills from Waziristan, an isolated mountainous district bounded on the south by the Gomal and the gorges that lead to the Wana plain. and treeless, but here and there, as in the Kaitu valley, in northern The lower ridges of the frontier mountain system are usually bare Waziristan and round Kaniguram in the south, are forest clad and enclose narrow but fertile and well-irrigated dales. In places, too, as, for instance, round Shawal, the summer grazing ground of the Darwesh Khel Waziris, and on the slopes of Pir Ghol, there is good pasturage and a fair sprinkling of deodars. The valleys of the Tochi and Wana are both fertile, but are very different in character. The former is a long narrow valley, with a rich fringe of cultivation bordering the river; the latter is a wide open alluvial plain, cultivated only on one side, and for the rest rough stony waste. South of the Gomal the Suliman Range culminates in the famous Takht-iSuliman in the Largha Sherani country, a political dependency of Dera Ismail Khan district. The Kaisargarh peak of the Takht-iSuliman is 11,300 ft. above sea-level.

Mountain Systems.-The mountains of the Hindu Kush running from east to west form the northern boundary of the province, and are met at the north-cast corner of the Chitral agency by the continuation of an outer chain of the Himalayas after it crosses the Indus above the Kagan valley. From this chain minor ranges run in a south-westerly direction the whole length of Bajour and Swat, till they merge into the Mohmand hills and connect the mid-Himalayas with the Safed Koh. The range of the Safed Koh flanks the Kurram valley and encloses the Kabul basin, which finds its outlet to the Indus through the Mohmand hills. The Suliman system lies south of the Gomal unconnected with the northern hills. To the east the Safed Koh extends its spurs into the Kohat district. The Salt Range crosses the Indus in the Mianwali tahsil of the Punjab, and forms the boundary between Bannu and Dera Ismail Khan, merging eventually in the Waziri hills. The chief peaks in the province are Kaisargarh (11,300 ft.) and Pir Ghol (11,580 ft.) in Waziristan; in the Safed Koh; Istragh (18,900 ft.), Kachin (22,641 ft.) and Shekh Budin (4516 ft.), in the small range; Sikaram (15,621 ft.) Tirach Mir (25,426 ft.), in the Hindu Kush on the northern border of the Chitral agency; while the Kagan peaks in Hazara district run from 10,000 ft. to 16,700 ft.

After

Rivers. With the exception of the Kunhar river, which flows down the Kagan valley to the Jhelum, the whole drainage of the province eventually finds its way into the Indus. The Indus enters the province between tribal territory and Hazara district. leaving Hazara it flows in a southerly direction between the Punjab and the North-West Frontier Province, till it enters Mianwali district of the Punjab, from which it emerges to form again the eastern boundary of the province. From the east it is fed by three or four rivers of Hazara district (see INDUS). At Attock the Kabul river brings down to the Indus the whole drainage of Kafiristan, Chitral, Panjkora, Swat and Peshawar district (see KABUL RIVER). The Kurram river rises in the southern slopes of the Safed Koh, and after leaving the Kurram valley passes through the Kohat hills and enters Bannu district. Three miles below Lakki it is joined by the Tochi or Gambela, which carries the drainage of North Waziristan. The Kurram then empties itself into the Indus. From this point until it leaves the province the Indus receives no tributary of any importance. The Gomal river drains a large area of central Afghanistan and forms the most important povindah (or Kafila) route on the frontier.

1. Hazara District.-The district of Hazara extends northeastwards into the outer Himalayan Range, tapering to a narrow point at the head of the Kagan valley. The mountain chains which enclose Kagan sweep southward into the broader portion of the district, throwing off well-wooded spurs which break up the country into numerous isolated glens. Approaching Rawalpindi district the hills open out, and rich plain lands take the place of the terraced hillsides and forests of the more northern uplands. The Babusar Pass at the head of the Kagan valley marks the most direct approach to Chilas and Gilgit from the plains of India. (See HAZARA). 2. The Sellled Districts.-The tract between the Indus and the hills consists of four open districts, Peshawar, Kehat, Bannu and Dera Ismail Khan, divided one from the other by low hills. The vale of Peshawar is for the most part highly irrigated and well wooded, presenting in the spring and autumn a picture of waving cornfields and smiling orchards framed by rugged hills. It has, however, an evil name for malarial fever. Adjoining Peshawar, and separated from it by the Jowaki hills, lies the district of Kohat, a generally hilly tract intersected by narrow valleys. The largest of these traverses the district from Kushalgarh on the Indus to Thal on the Kurram, narrowing in places, but usually opening out into wide cornlands and pastures dotted with the dwarf palm. This district The Pathan Races.-The North-West Frontier Province as affords striking contrasts of scenery, from the sheltered fields of now constituted may be described as the country of the Pathans Miranzai to the barren desolation of the salt mines. The southern (q.v.). The true Pathan is possibly of Indian extraction. But spurs of the Kohat hills gradually subside into the Bannu plain. Where irrigated from the Kurram river, especially round Bannu around this nucleus have collected many tribes of foreign origin. itself, this tract is well cultivated and forms a great contrast to the The whole have now become blended by the adoption of a common harsh desolation of the Kohat hills. But beyond the sphere of irri-language, but remain tribally distinct; all alike have accepted gation, where the land is dependent on the rainfall, there is much rough stony ground broken by great fissures cut by flood-water from the border hills. To the east this gives way to the broad level plain of Marwat, which in favourable years presents a uniform expanse of rich cultivation extending from Lakki to the base of the Shekh Budin hills. These hills consist of a broken range of sandstone and conglomerate dividing the Bannu plain from the cultivated flats of Dera Ismail Khan.

3. The Country of the Independent Tribes.-Turning to the mountainous region between the settled districts and Afghanistan, to the extreme north lies the agency of Dir, Swat and Chitral. Chitral itself consists of a narrow valley enclosed between rugged mountains. Below Chitral are found the thickly timbered forests of Dir and Bajour, and the fertile valleys of the Panjkora and Swat rivers. Between this agency and the Khyber Pass fie the Mohmand hills,

Islam, and have invented traditions of common descent which express their present association. For centuries these tribes maintained their independence in the rugged hills which flank the present kingdom of Afghanistan. In the 15th century they began to settle in the plains. The 16th century saw the Pathan tribes established in their present homes. The spirit of independence which always characterized them soon brought them into collision with the Mogul empire. In the 17th century, after a long struggle, the settlers in the plains wrested from Aurangzeb terms which left them almost as independent as their brothers in the hills. The invasion in 1738 of Nadir Shah, who traversed the province from Peshawar to Dera Ismail Khan.

is a landmark in the history of the frontier. From his death to | the rise of Ranjit Singh, the frontier districts remained an appendage of the Durani empire. Little control was exercised by the rulers of Kabul, and the country was administered by local chiefs or Afghan Sirdars very much as they pleased. The Sikh invasions began in 1818, and from that date to the annexation by the British government the Sikhs were steadily making themselves masters of the country. After the Second Sikh War, by the proclamation of the 29th of March 1849, the frontier districts were annexed by the British government. From that time until the creation of the North-West Frontier Province the settled districts formed part of the Punjab, while the independent tribes were controlled at different times by the Punjab government, and the government of India. Their turbulence still continued, and since 1849 they have been the object of over fifty punitive expeditions. The chief tribes, under the political control of the N.W. Frontier agency, besides Chitralis and Bajouris, are the Utman Khel, Yusafzais, Hassanzais, Mohmands, Afridis, Jowakis, Mullagoris, Orakzais, Zaimukhts, Chamkannis, Khattaks, Bangashes, Turis, Waziris, Battannis (Bhitanis) and Sheranis. These tribes are referred to under separate headings.

Creation of the Province.-The North-West Frontier Province differs from the older provinces of India in having been artificially built up out of part of a previous province together with new districts for a definite administrative purpose. The proposal to make the frontier districts into a separate province, administered by an officer of special experience, dates back to the viceroyalty of Lord Lytton, who, in a famous minute of the 22nd of April 1877, said:

"I believe that our North-West Frontier presents at this moment a spectacle unique in the world; at least I know of no other spot where, after 25 years of peaceful occupation, a great civilized power has obtained so little influence over its semi-savage neighbours, and acquired so little knowledge of them, that the country within a day's ride of its most important garrison is an absolute terra incognita, and that there is absolutely no security for British life a mile or two beyond our border."

The result of this minute was that a frontier commissionership, including Sind, was sanctioned by the home government, and Sir Frederick (afterwards Lord) Roberts had been designated as the first Commissioner, when the outbreak of the Second Afghan War caused the project to be postponed. It was afterwards shelved by Lord Ripon. Twenty-three years elapsed before the idea was revived and successfully brought to completion by Lord Curzon, whose scheme was on a more modest scale than Lord Lytton's. It omitted Sind altogether, and confined the new province to the Pathan trans-Indus districts north of the Gomal. The purpose of the change was to subject all the independent tribes from Chitral to the Gomal Pass to the control of a single hand, and to ensure a firm and continuous policy in their management. The administration of the province is conducted by a chief Commissioner and Agent to the Governor

General.

Population. In the census of 1901 the operations were extended for the first time to the Kurram Valley and the Sherani country, trans-frontier territories containing a population of 66,628 souls, which had not been previously enumerated. The military cantonments and posts in Malakand, Dir, Swat and Chitral were also enumerated, as were those in the Tochi Valley (the Northern Waziristan Agency) and in the Gomal (the Southern Waziristan Agency), the former figures being included in the census returns of Bannu district, and those of the latter in the returns of Dera Ismail Khan. The total population of the province was 2,125,480; but this figure omits the great majority of the frontier tribes. The province is almost wholly agricultural. The urban population is only one-eighth of the total, and shows no tendency to increase. There are no large industries to attract the population to the towns; these, except Peshawar and Dera Ismail Khan, are either expansions of large agricultural villages or bazaars which have grown up round the many cantonments of the province. The great majority of the population are Pathan by race and Mahommedan by religion. The predominant

language is Pushtu (q.v.). The conquered strata of the popu lation speak servile Indian dialects, called Hindki in the north and Jatki in the south, while Gujari is spoken by the large Gujar population in the hills of Hazara and north of Peshawar.

Crops and Climate.-The area under cultivation represents an average of 1.3 acres per head of the total, and of nearly 1.5 acres per head of the rural population. The limit of profitable cultivation has almost been reached. It is therefore from an improvement in the methods of agriculture rather than to an extension of the area under cultivation that recourse must be had to supply the needs of a rapidly increasing population. The Pathan, however, is a slovenly cultivator and slow to adopt any new methods which involve increased effort. The principal crops are-in the cold weather, maize and bajra; in the spring, wheat, barley and gram. Rice and sugar-cane are largely grown on the irrigated lands of Hazara, Peshawar and Bannu districts, and the well and canal irrigated tracts of Peshawar district produce fine crops of cotton and tobacco. In the trans-border agencies the valleys of the Swat, Kurram and mountainous region, but includes the Peshawar valley and the broad Tochi rivers yield abundant rice crops. The province is mainly a riverain tract of the Indus in Dera Ismail Khan district. climatic conditions are hence extremely diversified. Dera Ismail Khan district is one of the hottest areas in the Indian continent, while over the mountain region to the north the weather is temperate dry, and hence the daily and annual range of temperature is frein the summer and intensely cold in the winter. The air is generally quently very large. There are two seasons of rainfall over the province: the monsoon season, when supplies of moisture are brought up by the ocean winds from the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal: and the Caspian districts occasion winds, widespread rain and snowand the winter season, when storms advancing eastwards from Persia fall. Both sources of supply are precarious, and instances are not infrequent of the almost entire failure of either the winter or the summer rainfall.

The

Irrigation-Canals are the main source of irrigation in the province, and fall under three heads: (1) Private canals in the various districts, Michni Dilazak and Shabkadar branch in Peshawar, constructed by the property of the people and managed on their behalf; (2) the the district board, which receives water rates; and (3) the Swat property of government, and are managed by the irrigation depart. and Kabul river canals, which were constructed by and are the

ment.

About 20% of the cultivated area is irrigated by canals, 2% by wells and 3% by perennial streams. Throughout the province the area in which well-cultivation is possible is extremely limited, and the field has already been covered. In Kohat and Hazara any considerable extension of canal irrigation is out of the question, but in the remaining districts much can still be done to promote irrigation.

the first instance for strategic purposes. The main line of the North-
Railways. The railways of the province are mostly intended in
Western railway runs from Rawalpindi to Peshawar, whence it
has been extended 9 m. to Jamrud at the entrance to the Khyber
Pass. From Nowshera a frontier light line, involving a break of
gauge, is carried to Dargai at the foot of the Malakand Pass.
From Rawalpindi again another branch extends to the Indus at
Kushalgarh. A bridge has been built at this point, and the railway
continued through Kohat to Thal at the entrance of the Kurram
valley.

Sir Thomas Holdich, The Indian Borderland (1901); Paget and
Mason, Record of Frontier Expeditions (1884). (T. H. H.*)

See North-West Frontier Province Gazelleer (Calcutta, 1908);

NORTH-WEST TERRITORIES. The North-West Territory was at first a general name given to all the districts of British North America lying N.W. of the St Lawrence basin. In the British North America Act of 1867 provision was made for the admission to Canada of "Rupert's Land and the North-West Territory." Manitoba was formed out of this district in 1870. The territory remaining was then called the "North-West Territories," and until other arrangements were made was to be under the governor of Manitoba. In 1876 the district of Keewatin was established; in 1881 the limits of Manitoba were enlarged; and in 1882 four new districts-Assiniboia, Saskatchewan, Alberta and Athabasca-were organized. In 1905 the two first of these with some modification became the province of Saskatchewan, and the two last the province of Alberta. The territories of Canada outside of the eight provinces and Yukon district of the mainland are now organized as the North-West Territories, and are under an administrator or acting governor. They include the districts of Keewatin, Ungava, Mackenzie and Franklin. These territories have an Indian population of about 8500, the

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Average Precipitation, Inches.

With the exception of southern Keewatin and the district south of James Bay the animals of the North-West Territories are chiefly fur-bearing. Great herds of musk-oxen are found in Mackenzie, and vast flocks of ducks, geese and other migratory birds spend summer in the northern wilds. Except in southern Keewatin and the James Bay district the flora is decidedly northern, becoming Arctic in the far north. Forest trees grow small and ill formed. Sedges abound, exceeding grasses; mustards are abundant, and saxifrages plentiful. Mosses and lichens are numerous.

The history of the north-west follows three different branches. (1) The story of Arctic exploration and the scarch for the NorthWest Passage, with a concentration of interest upon the name of Sir John Franklin, whose loss was followed by a great development of investigation in the Arctic regions; (2) the story of the fur trade, connected with the Hudson Bay forts, from the establishment of the first Charles Fort in 1669; (3) the story of immigration, the beginning of which is to be found in the coming of the Selkirk colonists, the real founders of Manitoba (q.v.), to Red river by way of Hudson Bay.

NORTHWICH, a market town in the Northwich parliamentary division of Cheshire, England, 1714 m. N.W. of London, on the London and North-Western railway and the Cheshire lines. Pop. of urban district, 17,611. It lies in a low open valley at the confluence of the rivers Weaver and Dane, and is the centre of the principal salt-producing district in the United Kingdom. In its narrow and irregular streets many of the houses are strongly bolted to keep them secure from the subsidences which result not infrequently from the pumping of brine. Despite these precautions many accidents have occurred; some of the houses have sunk or stand at fantastic angles, and in 1892 a portion of the High Street, which had subsided below the level of the Weaver, had to be raised 6 ft. Both rock salt and white salt obtained by evaporation from brine are exported. The amount supplied by the whole district, which includes the neighbouring town of Winsford 6 m. south, is about 1,500,000 tons annually. The white salt is shipped chiefly to America. The principal buildings are the church of St Helen, Witton, noted for its finely carved roof of the 17th century, a museum and free library and market house. The Verdin Park was presented to the town by Robert Verdin, M.P. for Northwich, in 1887. There is a considerable industry in the building of flat boats to convey salt to Liverpool, the river Weaver being navigable, and connected by a hydraulic lift, 1 m. from the town, with the Trent and Mersey Canal on a higher level. Ropeand brick-making, iron and brass-founding, chemical manufactures, brewing and tanning, are also carried on.

NORTON, CAROLINE ELIZABETH SARAH (1808-1877), afterwards Lady Stirling-Maxwell, English writer, was born in London in 1808. One of the three beautiful granddaughters of Richard Brinsley Sheridan, daughters of his son Thomas, the "three Graces" of London society in the reign of George IV., she began to write before she was out of her teens. Her two sisters Helen and Georgina became respectively Lady Dufferin and duchess of Somerset. Lady Dufferin described the sisters to Disraeli with characteristic modesty. 'Georgey's the beauty," she said, "and Carry's the wit, and I ought to be the good one, but I am not." At the age of seventeen, Caroline published a

19.26 28.73

merry satire, The Dandies' Rout, illustrated by herself, and full of girlish high spirits and wit. Her first essay in serious verse was made in 1829 with The Sorrows of Rosalie, the next in 1830 with The Undying One, a version of the legend of the Wandering Jew. She made an unfortunate marriage in 1827 with the Hon. George Norton, brother of Lord Grantley. After three years of protests on her part and good promises on his, she had left his house for her sister's, had "condoned" on further good promises, and had returned, to find matters worse. The husband's persecutions culminated in 1836 in an action brought against Lord Melbourne for seduction of his wife, which the jury decided against Mr Norton without leaving the box. The case against Lord Melbourne was so weak that it was suggested that Norton was urged to make the accusation by Melbourne's political enemies, in the hope that the scandal would prevent him from being premier when the princess Victoria should succeed William IV. In 1853 legal proceedings between Mrs Norton and her husband were again entered on, because he not only failed to pay her allowance, but demanded the proceeds of her books. Mrs Norton made her own experience a plea for addressing to the queen in 1855 an eloquent letter on the divorce laws, and her writings did much to ripen opinion for changes in the legal status of married women. George Meredith, in Diana of the Crossways, used her as the model for his "Diana." Mrs Norton was not a mere writer of elegant trifles, but was one of the priestesses of the "reforming" spirit; her Voice from the Factories (1836) was a mosi eloquent and rousing condemnation of child labour. The Dream, and other Poems appeared in 1840. Aunt Carry's Ballads (1847), dedicated to her nephews and nicces, are written with charming tenderness and grace. Later in life she produced three novels, Stuart of Dunleath (1851), Lost and Saved (1863), and Old Sir Douglas (1868). Mrs Norton's last poem was the Lady of La Garaye (1862), her last publication the half-humorous, half-heroic story of The Rose of Jericho in 1870. She died on the 15th of June 1877. Mr Norton died in 1875; and Mrs Norton in the last year of her life married Sir W. Stirling-Maxwell.

See The Life of Mrs Norton, by Jane G. Perkins (1909).

NORTON, CHARLES BOWYER ADDERLEY, 1ST BARON (1814-1905), English politician, eldest son of Charles Clement Adderley (d. 1818), one of an old Staffordshire family, was born on the 2nd of August 1814, and inherited Hams Hall, Warwickshire and the valuable estates of his great-uncle, Charles Bowyer Adderley, in 1826. He was educated at Christ Church, Oxford, and in 1841 he became one of the members of parliament for Staffordshire, retaining his seat until 1878, when he was created Baron Norton. Adderley's official career began in 1858, when he served as president of the board of health and vice-president of the committee of the council on education in Lord Derby's short ministry. Again under Lord Derby he was under-secretary for the colonies from 1866 to 1868, being in charge of the act which called the Dominion of Canada into being, and from 1874 to 1878 he was president of the board of trade. He died on the 28th of March 1905. Norton was a strong churchman and especially interested in education and the colonies. In 1842 he married Julia (1820-1887) daughter of Chandos, 1st Lord Leigh, His eldest son Charles Leigh by whom he had several sons. (b. 1846) became 2nd Baron Norton. Another son, James Granville Adderley (b. 1861), vicar of Saltley, Birmingham, became well known as an advocate of Christian socialism.

See W. S. Childe-Pemberton, The Life of Lord Norton (1909), NORTON, CHARLES ELIOT (1827-1908). American scholar and man of letters, was born at Cambridge, Massachusetts, on the 16th of November 1827. His father, Andrews Norton (1786-1853) was a Unitarian theologian, and Dexter professor of sacred literature at Harvard; his mother was Catherine Eliot, Charles William Eliot, president of Harvard, being his cousin. Charles Eliot Norton graduated from Harvard in 1846, and started in business with an East Indian trading firm in

Fjords.

NORWAY

great elevation, especially the more northerly; thus the jagged | of some western fjords. Moreover, at some points (as on the peaks characteristic of Lofoten culminate at about 4000 ft. Jæderen coast) "giant kettles" Hornelen, near the mouth of Nordfjord, 3000 ft. high, rises level, even below the level of high tide; and these glacial formanearly sheer above the Fröjfjord, and vessels pass close under the tions indicate the greater elevation of the land towards the close may be observed close to seatowering cliff. Torghatten (" the market hat "), N. of Namsos, of the Glacial epoch. Former beach-lines are most commonly pierced through by a vast natural tunnel 400 ft. above the sea; to be observed in northern Norway (e.g. in Alten Fjord), and and Hestmandö ("horseman island "), on the Arctic circle, is in some cases there are two lines at different altitudes. The land justly named from its form. The dark blue waters of the inner above the raised beach is generally bare and unproductive, leads and fjords are clouded, and show a milky tinge on the sur- and human habitation tends to confine itself in consequence to face imparted by the glacier-fed rivers. Bare rock is the dominant the lower levels. feature of the coast and islands, save where a few green fields surround a farmstead. In the N., where the snow-line sinks low, the scenery at all seasons has an Arctic character. Christiania Fjord, opening from the N. angle of the Cattegat and Skagerrack, differs from the great fjords of the W. Its shores are neither so high nor so precipitous as theirs; it is shallower, and contains a great number of little islands. From its mouth, round Lindesnæs, and as far as the Bukken Fjord (Stavanger) there are many small fjords, while the skjærgaard provides an inner lead only intermittently. Immediately S. of Bukken Fjord, from a point N. of Egersund, the flat open coast of Jæderen, dangerous to shipping, fringing a narrow lowland abundant in peat-bogs for some 30 m., forms an unusual feature. Bukken Fjord is broad and island-studded, but throws off several inner arms, of which Lyse Fjord, near Stavanger, is remarkable for its extreme narrowness, and the steepness of its lofty shores. The Hardanger Fjord, penetrating the land for 114 m., is known to more visitors than any other owing to its southerly position; but its beauty is exceeded by that of Sogne Fjord and Nord Fjord farther N. Sogne is the largest and deepest fjord of all; its head is 136 m. from the sea, and its extreme depth approaches 700 fathoms. Stor Fjord opens inland from Aalesund, and one of its head branches, Geiranger Fjord, is among the most celebrated in Norway. Trondhjem Fjord, the next great fjord northward, which broadens inland from a narrow entrance, lacks grandeur, as the elevation of the land is reduced where the Trondhjem depression interrupts the average height of the plateau. The coast N. of Trondhjem, though far from losing its beauty, has not at first the grandeur of that to the south, nor are the fjords so extensive. The principal of these are Namsen, Folden and Vefsen, at the mouth of which is Alsten Island, with the mountains called Syv Söstre (Seven Sisters), and Ranen, not far S. of the Arctic circle. Svartisen sends its glaciers seaward, and the scenery increases in magnificence. Salten Fjord, to the N. of the great snow-field, is connected with Skjerstad Fjord by three narrow channels, where the water, at ebb and flow, forms powerful rapids. The scenery N. of Salten is unsurpassed. The Lofoten and Vesteraalen islands are separated from the mainland by the Vest Fjord, which is continued inland by Ofoten Fjord. If these two be considered as one fjord, its length is about 175 m., but the actual penetration of the mainland is little more than a fifth of this distance. The main fjords N. of Vesteraalen have a general northerly direction; among them is Lyngen Fjord near Tromsö, with high flanking cliffs and glaciers falling nearly to the sea. markable for the vegetation on its shores. From Lofoten N. Alten Fjord is rethere is a chain of larger islands, Senjen, Kvalö, Ringvadsö, Sorö, Stjernö, Seiland, Ingö and Magerö. These extend to the North Cape, but hereafter the skjærgaard ends abruptly. The coast to the E. is of widely different character; flat mountain wastes descend precipitously to the sea without any islands beyond, save Vardo, with two low islets at the E. extremity of Norway. The fjords are broader in proportion to their length. The chief are Porsanger, Laxe and Tana, opening N., and Varanger opening E. N. of this fjord the land is low and the landscape monotonous; on the S. a few island and branch fjords break the line of the shore. Stavanger Fjord has an extreme depth of 380 fathoms; Hardanger Fjord 355, Sogne Fjord 670, Nordfjord 340, Trondhjem Fjord 300, Ranen Fjord 235, Vestfjord 340, Alten Fjord 225, and Varanger Fjord 230. Marine terraces are met with in the E. of the country, and near Trondhjem, at 600 ft. above sealevel; and they are also seen at a slighter elevation at the heads

rivers of considerable size, flowing roughly parallel but sometimes Hydrography-In S.E. Norway there are long valleys, carrying frontier for 350 m. to the Skagerrack, is the largest river in the uniting as they approach the sea. The Glommen, rising N. of Roros Scandinavian peninsula. Its upper middle valley is called Österdal,1 in Aursund Lake, and flowing with a southerly curve parallel with the the richest timber district in Norway. Its drainage area is 16,000 sq. m. Seven miles above its mouth it forms the fine Sarpsfos, and tributary, the Vormen, has one of its sources (under the name of Laagen) in Lake Lesjekogen, which also drains in the opposite direcnot far above this it traverses the large lake Öieren. A right bank tion by the Rauma. The stream, after watering Gudbrandsdal, enters Mjösen, the largest lake in Norway, It is 60 m. long, but, has, however, an extreme depth of 1500 ft. The Drammen river, which enters a western arm of Christiania Fjord below the town like most of the greater Norwegian lakes, has no great breadth. It of Drammen, is the common outlet of several large rivers. The Hallingdal river drains the valley of that name, and forms Lake Kröderen, which is connected with the Drammen river by the out of Lake Tyrifjord, 50 sq. m. in area, into which flow the united Snarum. A short distance above the junction the Drammen flows Bægna. The whole basin of the Drammen has an area of 6600 sq. m. waters of the Rand, from the valley district of Valdres, and the The rivers between Christiania Fjord and Lindesnes preserve the They rise on the Hardanger Vidda or adjacent uplands. The mest important are the Laagen (to be distinguished from the river of that characteristics of those of the Glommen and Drammen systems. name in Gudbrandsdal), draining the Numedal; the Skien, the Nid and the Otter. Lakes are very numerous, the chief, beyond Rjukanfos (smoking fall) of 415 ft., and Nisservand on the Nid. those already named, being Nordsjó on the Skien river, Tinsjö in the The larger lakes lie, with a certain regularity, at elevations about same system, which receives the river Maan, famous as forming the 400 ft. above the sea, and it is considered that their basins were the heads of fjords when the land lay at a lower level, and were formed Lake Fæmund, lying E. of the Glommen valley and drained by the river of the same name, which becomes the Klar in Sweden, to which. during an earlier glacial period than the present fjords. The great country it mainly belongs, is similar in type to the lakes of the northern highlands of Sweden. The streams of the coast of Jæderen reach the sea through sluggish channels, brown with peat.

proportion, owing to the heavier average rainfall of the W. slope.
Not only do the valleys of the W. far surpass in beauty those of
rapid stream, famous for its salmon-fishing, which debouches at
the S. and E., but they carry streams of much greater volume in
and into Sands fjord. The valley which opens from Odde at the
The first to be noted is that of the Sand or Logen river, a brilliant,
head of a branch (Sör fjord) of Hardanger Fjord, is noted as con-
taining two of the finest waterfalls in Norway. The one, Lotefos
(which is joined by the smaller Skarsfos), is a powerful cataract
following a tortuous cleft. The other, Espelandsfos, is formed by a
veil. The only other considerable river entering Hardanger Fjord
is the Bjoreia, with its mouth at Vik in Eidfjord. On this stream is
very small stream; it falls quite sheer and spreads out like a fine
Hardanger form the Skjeggedal and several other beautiful falls.
the magnificent Vöringsfos. Lesser streams within the basin of the
insignificant, but there are several splendid valleys, such as the
sombre Nærödal, which descends to the Næro branch of Sogne
From Hardanger N. to Romsdal the streams of the W. slope are
Fjord, or the valleys which sink S. and N. from the Jostedalsbræ to
the head branches of Sogne Fjord and Nordfjord respectively.
Stryn, whose milky waters are supplied almost directly from the
Jostedal glaciers, while above Eidsfjord a corresponding trough
Above those of Nordfjord is a series of lakes, Olden, Loen and
contains Lake Hornindal. The next important valley is the Romsdal,
the stream of which, the Rauma, forms the W. outlet of Lake
Lesjekogen, as the Laagen forms the E. This lake, which lies 2011 ft.
debouches into Sundals Fjord, while the Orkla, draining Orkedal, the
above sea-level, is the most remarkable example of an indefinite
watershed to be found in S. Norway. N. from Romsdal the Driva
Gula draining Guldal, and the Nea or Nid, draining Lake Selbu, and

known by different names from those of the rivers which water them,
1 The middle and upper parts of many valleys in Norway are
either side of the valley.
and such names may extend in common usage over the district on

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