SECTION III-TRAVEL AND TRANSPORTATION TRAVEL IN MEXICO By CHARLES E. CHAPMAN, Ph.D. University of California The accompanying article aims, in summary fashion, to answer the questions which might occur to one who had never traveled in Mexico, but was desirous of going there. Is Mexico Safe? Generally speaking, yes. Indeed, the qualifications which must be made to this affirmation will seem of less import after one has reached the southern republic, and become informed of real conditions, through his own observation and inquiry. In view of Mexico's record since 1910, one would indeed be rash who would assert that the danger of further serious revolution is past. On the other hand, the country has now enjoyed more than a year of very nearly complete peace, disturbed only by local outbreaks in regions which the tourist would in any event be very unlikely to visit. From the standpoint of the traveler, these are perhaps of less importance than a fairly large strike would be anywhere in the United States, England, or the self-governing British colonies. Even in the event of a revolution developing into veritable warfare, the American citizen or British subject is ordinarily in far less danger than the Mexican non-combatant. Perhaps the only grave peril would be the occurrence of American intervention, in which case there might be a temporary outburst against Americans. Yet thousands of Americans have remained in Mexico during the revolutionary era since 1910, even at times of the several American interventions, without being molested in their persons or property. To sum up, if there is no intimation of general warfare or intervention about to take place, the traveler may dismiss from his mind any hypothetical perils, or newspaper accounts of an uprising in some out-of-the-way district by this or that nonentity, as also the more or less current but inaccurate yarns about the prevalence of Mexican banditry. He may pack his bags and start-and when he reaches Mexico City he will probably wonder why the contingency of danger was even so much. as suggested. When to Go: The answer to this, assuming that the average traveler will prefer to visit the better known parts of the plateau country (see under Where to Go), is-any time of the year. The climate of Mexico City, for example, varies little, and is at all times comfortable, rarely either hot or cold. The climate of The range, in Guadalajara is generally accounted better still. deed, may be considerable, but the extremes are rarely met with. Mexico City has a range of 35° to 90°, but the mean temperature is about 65°. From May or June to September or October is the rainy season, while the rest of the year is dry. In both seasons one ordinarily wears the same weight of clothing-medium or light underwear, according to the state of one's health, and a waistcoat, with a light overcoat at hand in case of need. The overcoat, preferably some form of raincoat, is useful (though not absolutely necessary) in summer when it is raining or in the cool evenings which follow, and in winter in the event of more than usual cold. It is to be noted that there is a great change between day and night temperature of the same day, due to the dryness of the climate and the rarefied atmosphere, for Mexico City has an elevation of 7434 feet and other cities of the plateau approach this altitude. The winter months have usually been favored by tourists, but the summer is quite as desirable a season. The mornings are almost invariably fresh, bright, and sunny. Rain comes from mid-afternoon to night, but rarely lasts much over an hour, and when it stops, is over for the day. Even then it is not often a heavy rain; usually it amounts to a mild drizzle, and some days it does not rain at all. Old settlers prefer the summer to the winter. Where to Go: This will depend upon the individual taste or objective of the traveler, as also upon the time and financial resources at his command. Mexico is not only vast in' size, but also great in the variety of its attractions. The average firsttripper, however, without special predilection for any particular phase of Mexican life, will perhaps prefer to follow the beaten. track. The question then arises as to how much he shall see, whether as many places as he can, in the time he has set apart, or fewer places, with a longer stay in each. The writer would advise the latter plan. He who attempts to see all gets little more than a kaleidoscope of town and country, to the accompaniment of great. physical weariness and a feeling of satiety that robs a trip of its pleasure. He who sees less will in fact almost certainly see more, for he will have time to investigate, to be a part of the life around him, and, in other words, to fit the people into the picture before his eyes. On this basis, Mexico City should be the principal objective. of the traveler and the place at which he should make the longest stay. Far more than either Washington or New York in the United States, perhaps even more than London in England, Mexico City is the focus of the life of the republic. It is also an excellent center from which to make excursions to numerous near-by points of interest. Most travelers would perhaps choose Guadalajara, next after the capital, as a place for a prolonged visit. Guadalajara is in a remarkably beautiful section of the republic, and is also representative of the best type of Mexican citizenry, since there the percentage of pure white blood is perhaps the highest of any of the populous regions of the country. These two cities and their surroundings constitute nearly all that a traveler with from one to two months' time ought to attempt seeing on a first trip. Stops of from one to two days may be made at other cities, coming in or going out of the republic. For example, those who enter or depart from Vera Cruz may be interested in that city and Puebla, along the line to Mexico City. Chihuahua or Torreón, Zacatecas or Guanajuato, and Aguascalientes are worthy of special consideration along the route from Ciudad Juárez, opposite El Paso, and Monterrey and San Luis Potosí, possibly also Saltillo, are equally notable on the run between Nuevo Laredo (opposite Laredo, Texas) or Matamoros (opposite Brownsville, Texas) and the capital. Querétaro is an interesting city which is reached by through lines from the north. The writer would advise against trying to visit all these places, however. One factor to be borne in mind is the uncomfortable hours of railway schedules. Trains are few in number, and are apt to run on a schedule adapted to the exigencies of Mexico City, rather than to the cities of the provinces. Preliminary Preparations: To travel in Mexico one must have a passport from his own national government, duly viséd by an authorized Mexican official. An American, for example, should apply to the State Department of the United States, Passport Division, or, better still, if he lives near a city where there are federal officials, to the passport office at such city. It takes from two or three days to as many weeks to procure a passport, depending principally on one's distance from Washington, whence the document is eventually received. At present, there is a fee of ten dollars for an American passport, good for a year. A like sum is also charged for the visa of the Mexican government. The Mexican visa may be procured at the point of entry, but much annoyance will be saved if it is obtained beforehand at any Mexican consular office in one's own country. In general, it is a good plan to do some preliminary reading on the history and life of Mexico before making a trip to that country. It is advisable, too, to procure a guide-book to take along on one's travels. One such is that of T. Philip Terry (Terry's Mexico, 2 ed., London, 1911). Though out of date in some particulars, it is perhaps the most reliable, and certainly the most comprehensive in its descriptions of different regions. of Mexico, and much of the general information it provides is still applicable. This may be supplemented by other more recent works; for example, that of Harold R. Maxson. (A practical handbook regarding Mexico City and vicinity. Mexico City, 1920.) A knowledge of Spanish is not essential to the traveler in Mexico, but it goes without saying that it is exceedingly helpful and will add considerably to one's enjoyment of the country. It is worth while, at any rate, to gain a rudimentary knowledge of the language. Some travelers like to do this while they are on the ground, thereby obtaining not only a slight acquaintance with Spanish but also an insight into the meaning of the life around them, of which the teacher will almost surely try to give them some idea. Foreign paper or silver money is not only not legal tender in Mexico, but people are also forbidden to give or accept it, or even to have it in their possession, under penalty of a fine. Though the law is not strictly enforced, it is best to conform. The traveler should therefore provide himself with gold, or better still with a letter of credit or travelers' checks. These, though expressed in one's own money, are convertible into Mexican currency within the republic. The rate is usually two Mexican pesos for one American dollar. It is best to have only so much actual cash on hand as will meet existing needs. Mexican money, if not procurable at the point of departure, can always be obtained at such border towns as El Paso, Laredo, and Brownsville, and of course also at any Mexican point of entry. One will be wise, however, to get as much as he needs to take him to Mexico City before entering the territory of the republic. In packing for the journey one should omit everything that he can possibly get along without. Travel becomes a burden to the person who is laden with equipage. It should be remembered, too, that it is possible in Mexico itself to purchase almost anything one is apt to need and quite as well as in one's own country. The not too fastidious man or woman can get along very well on a large suit-case and perhaps a small handbag. In this way, charges for overweight of trunks (which may amount to a considerable figure) and annoying delays in delivery will be avoided, and danger from theft lessened. The element of time-for getting soiled linen laundered and returned, or suits cleaned and pressed-should be the principal factor in the selection of one's wardrobe. Fine clothes are appreciated in Mexico, as everywhere else. Mexicans, indeed, are great sticklers for the proprieties in matters of dress. On the other hand, English-speaking foreigners are but little given to the practice of appearing resplendent. Most of them are business men of a more or less pioneer type, and care perhaps less for social etiquette than they would in their own countries. On the whole, though, it is wise to take near-by points of interest. Most travelers would perhaps choose Guadalajara, next after the capital, as a place for a prolonged visit. Guadalajara is in a remarkably beautiful section of the republic, and is also representative of the best type of Mexican citizenry, since there the percentage of pure white blood is perhaps the highest of any of the populous regions of the country. These two cities and their surroundings constitute nearly all that a traveler with from one to two months' time ought to attempt seeing on a first trip. Stops of from one to two days may be made at other cities, coming in or going out of the republic. For example, those who enter or depart from Vera Cruz may be interested in that city and Puebla, along the line to Mexico City. Chihuahua or Torreón, Zacatecas or Guanajuato, and Aguascalientes are worthy of special consideration along the route from Ciudad Juárez, opposite El Paso, and Monterrey and San Luis Potosí, possibly also Saltillo, are equally notable on the run between Nuevo Laredo (opposite Laredo, Texas) or Matamoros (opposite Brownsville, Texas) and the capital. Querétaro is an interesting city which is reached by through lines from the north. The writer would advise against trying to visit all these places, however. One factor to be borne in mind is the uncomfortable hours of railway schedules. Trains are few in number, and are apt to run on a schedule adapted to the exigencies of Mexico City, rather than to the cities of the provinces. Preliminary Preparations: To travel in Mexico one must have a passport from his own national government, duly viséd by an authorized Mexican official. An American, for example, should apply to the State Department of the United States, Passport Division, or, better still, if he lives near a city where there are federal officials, to the passport office at such city. It takes from two or three days to as many weeks to procure a passport, depending principally on one's distance from Washington, whence the document is eventually received. At present, there is a fee of ten dollars for an American passport, good for a year. A like sum is also charged for the visa of the Mexican government. The Mexican visa may be procured at the point of entry, but much annoyance will be saved if it is obtained beforehand at any Mexican consular office in one's own country. In general, it is a good plan to do some preliminary reading on the history and life of Mexico before making a trip to that country. It is advisable, too, to procure a guide-book to take along on one's travels. One such is that of T. Philip Terry (Terry's Mexico, 2 ed., London, 1911). Though out of date in some particulars, it is perhaps the most reliable, and certainly the most comprehensive in its descriptions of different regions. of Mexico, and much of the general information it provides is still applicable. This may be supplemented by other more recent |