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visited if not seen previously. One boating excursion at least ought to be taken for the purpose of viewing the fine panorama of mountains which enclose the lake, and which can be nowhere seen to such advantage as from the bosom of the water. Green has pointed out one station for obtaining a fine view, not only of Crummock Lake, but of Buttermere also. It is from a point two or three hundred yards above the promontory under Melbreak; Honister Crag is seen closing the prospect on the north. The lake is three miles long by about three-quarters of a mile broad; its sounded depth is twenty-two fathoms. There are three small islands at the head, but they are too near the shore to add much to the other beauties of the scenery. The small lake called Lowes Water may also be visited. It is scarcely a mile long, and the scenery at its head is tame, but that round its foot is of a magnificent description.

From Scale Hill the tourist may proceed to the town of Cockermouth, the birth-place of the poet Wordsworth, which is seven miles distant-visit Ennerdale Water by way of Lamplugh-or return to Keswick by the vale of Lorton, a distance of twelve miles. This vale, watered by the Cocker, a stream which, issuing from Crummock Lake, joins the Derwent at Cockermouth, presents many charming views. Four miles from Scale Hill, the Keswick and Cockermouth road is entered, near the Yew-tree which Wordsworth has celebrated.

"There is a Yew-tree, pride of Lorton Vale,
Which to this day stands single in the midst
Of its own darkness, as it stood of yore,

Not loth to furnish weapons for the bands

Of Umfraville or Percy, ere they march'd

To Scotland's heaths; or those that cross'd the sea,

And drew their sounding bows at Agincour,

Perhaps at earlier Cressy or Poictiers.

Of vast circumference and gloom profound,
This solitary Tree !-a living thing
Produced too slowly ever to decay;
Of form and aspect too magnificent
To be destroy'd."

The road commences soon afterwards the long and steep ascent of Whinlatter, from the summit of which the spectator has a noble combination of objects be fore him, comprehending Derwentwater, Bassenthwaite Water, Skiddaw, and Keswick Vale. The distance between Scale Hill and Keswick may be shortened by almost two miles, if the road under Whiteside and Grisedale Pike be taken. For the horseman and pedestrian the shorter route is to be preferred, as that part under the mountains forms a terrace, from which, views of Lorton Vale, or the neighbouring hills, and extending even to the Scotch mountains, may be ob tained.

WHITEHAVEN.

[Hotels:-Globe; Black Lion; Golden Lion.]

WHITEHAVEN is a market-town and sea-port, seated at the upper end of a small creek on the west coast in the county of Cumberland. It is situate in the parish of St Bees, and contains 18,916 inhabitants. This town has ad

vanced rapidly from insignificance to its present state of prosperity, for in the year 1566 six fishermen's huts were all that bore the name of Whitehaven. This sudden progress in the scale of importance is to be attributed in a great measure to the munificence of the Lowther family, who, having large estates around the town, and valuable possessions in coal underneath it, have liberally come forward on all occasions, when opportunities have occurred, to promote its prosperity.

The chief manufactures are coarse linens, and articles connected with the fitting up of vessels. Ship-building is also carried on to a considerable extent. The port is the second in the county, there being upwards of 200 vessels belonging to it trading with the sea-ports of Great Britain, and with America, the West Indies, and the Baltic, as well as almost an equal number engaged in the coal trade; large quantities of iron and lead ore, grain, and lime are exported. The harbour is spacious and commodious, having seven piers extending into the sea in different directions, and affording ample security for vessels lying within. At the entrance of the harbour there are two light-houses, and a third is situate on the promontory of St Bees Head, three miles to the south-west. A machine, called the patent-slip, erected by Lord Lonsdale, into which vessels are drawn with ease and expedition when repairs are required, deserves a visit. The bay and harbour are defended by batteries, formerly consisting of upwards of a hundred guns, but lately suffered to fall into decay. These batteries received extensive additions after the alarm caused by the descent of the notorious Paul Jones in 1778. This desperado, who was a native of Galloway, and had served his apprenticeship in Whitehaven, landed here with thirty armed men, the crew of an American privateer which had been equipped at Nantes for this expedition. The success of the enterprise was, however, frustrated by one of the company, through whom the inhabitants were placed on the alert. The only damage they succeeded in doing was the setting fire to three ships, only one of which was burnt. They were obliged to make a precipitate retreat, having first spiked the guns of the battery, so that they escaped unhurt to the coast of Scotland, where they plundered the house of the Earl of Selkirk. Since 1803 a life-boat has been stationed here,-which has been the means of saving many lives.

The streets of the town have a neat appearance, being straight as well as wide, and intersecting each other at right angles. A rivulet called the Poe runs underneath the town to the harbour. There are four churches of the establishment besides several dissenting places of worship. The schools are numerous, educating more than 1700 children, nearly 500 of whom are taught at the National School. The Theatre in Roper Street has a handsome appearance; it was erected in 1769. The Workhouse is a large building in Scotch Street. The Harbour Office, in which the affairs of the harbour, docks, and customs are transacted, is a large structure on the West Strand. The Public Office, containing a police office, news-room, &c., stands in Lowther Street. The town now enjoys the privilege of returning a Member to Parliament.

D

The coal mines are the principal source of wealth at Whitehaven. They are, perhaps, the most extraordinary in the world, lying underneath the town, and extending a considerable distance under the bed of the sea. They are 320 yards in depth, and such vast quantities of coal have been excavated from them as to have given them the appearance of a subterranean city. At times of pressing demand, 1500 tons are frequently taken to the shore for exportation each day. The sea has not unfrequently burst into the mines, causing an immense destruction of life and property; the miners are also much annoyed with fire-damp and choke-damp. There are many short railways to convey the coal to the shore, and steam engines of great power are in continual operation for the purpose of carrying off the superfluous water. The mines have five principal entrances, called Bearmouths, three on the south side and two on the north, by all of which horses can descend.

Whitehaven is in direct communication with Liverpool, Belfast, Dublin, and Douglas in the Isle of Man, by the packets of the Steam Navigation Company. A packet sails several times a week to and from Liverpool; and as this mode of reaching Whitehaven is much more economical and expeditious than the inland one, many persons avail themselves of it for the purpose of arriving at the lake country. All information relative to the fares and times of sailing may be ascertained upon inquiry at the office of the Company, 36 King Street, or by reference to Bradshaw's Railway Guide. Railway Trains leave Whitehaven several times a-day for Workington, Cockermouth, and Maryport, in connection with the Maryport and Carlisle Railway, and for St Bees and Ravenglass, by the Furness Junction Railway.

The residences in the neighbourhood of Whitehaven are Whitehaven Castle (Earl of Lonsdale), on the south-east of the town; Hensingham House (H. Jefferson, Esq.), one mile south; Summer Grove (J. Spedding), two miles Bouth; Keekle Grove (Mrs Perry), three miles south; Linethwaite (G. Harrison, Esq.), three miles south; Moresby Hall (Miss Tate), two miles north, built after a design of Inigo Jones; Roseneath (Mrs Solomon); Rose Hill (G. W. Hartley, Esq.).

Excursions may be made from Whitehaven to St Bees, to Ennerdale Lake, and to Wast Water.

ST BEES.

The village which gives its name to the parish of St Bees, in which Whitehaven in situated, lies in a narrow valley near the shore, four miles to the south of Whitehaven. Its appellation is said to be derived from St Bega, an Irish virgin and saint, who lived here, and founded a monastery about the year 650. The church, which was erected some time after her death, was dedicated to her, and is still in a state of excellent preservation. The tower is the only part of the Saxon edifice remaining, the rest being in the florid Gothic style. It is built of red freestone, in a cruciform shape, and possesses some fine carvings, parti

cularly at the east end, which is lighted by three lancet-shaped windows The nave is used as the parish church, and the cross aisle as a place of burial. Until 1810 the chancel was unroofed, but in that year it was repaired, and is now occupied as the divinity school" for the reception of young men intended for the Church, but not designed to finish their studies at Oxford or Cambridge.' "The old Conventual Church," says Wordsworth, in the preface to his poem of • St Bees,' ," is well worthy of being visited by any strangers who might be led to the neighbourhood of this celebrated spot."

The Grammar School, founded by Archbishop Grindal, stands near the church.

ENNERDALE LAKE is less visited than most of the other lakes, in consequence of its difficulty of access, and the want of houses of entertainment in the valley. It lies nine miles to the east of Whitehaven, from which town it is more easily reached than from any other. Its length is not more than two miles and a half, and its extreme width is about three-quarters of a mile. The stream which enters at its head is called the Liza, but the river issuing from the lake takes the name of Ehen. This stream is crossed for the first time by those approaching the lake five miles from Whitehaven, and a second time three miles further up, at the village of Ennerdale Bridge, at which is the chapel, and near it two small inns; the foot of the lake is one mile beyond. The first mile and a half of Ennerdale Water is the most picturesque part, and, therefore, carriages need not proceed further along the road than this distance, as there is no outlet for them at the upper end of the valley. The pedestrian or horseman will do well to traverse the whole length of the vale, as the mountains round its upper end are thrown into magnificent groups. Long before reaching the head of the lake the scenery becomes wild and desolate. A mile and a half beyond the extre mity is the farm house of Gillerthwaite, the last habitation in the vale. Here the road for vehicles ends. A shepherd's path passes along the banks of the Liza, and two miles and a half beyond Gillerthwaite the extremity of Ennerdale is reached. Great Gable (2925 feet) is a fine object at the head; and the Pillar (2893 feet) has a striking appearance on the right. Great Gable is so called from its resembling the gable-end of a house. On the summit there was wont to be a small hollow in the rock never entirely empty of water,-" having,” says Wordsworth, " no other feeder than the dews of heaven, the showers, the vapours, the hoar frost, and the spotless snow." This rock is now destroyed. The peculiar shape of the Pillar will not fail to strike the eye for some distance. A sheep cote at the termination of the valley will be noticed. At this point a path strikes up the hill on the left, called Scarf Gap, and reaches Gatescarth in Buttermere, by a road three miles in length. Another path passes over Black Sail on the right, and winding round Kirkfell into Mosedale, having Yewbarrow on the right, reaches Wastdale Head, three miles from the sheep cote. Wastdale Head will be mentioned again in the description of our next excursion.

WAST WATER

May be visited either by the Furness Junction Railway from Drigg or Seascale Station, the former of which is 14 and the latter 12 miles from Whitehaven, or by the road which passes through the town of Egremont. Following the road two miles and a half beyond Egremont, on the right, is the village of Beckermet. A house near this village, the residence of Joseph Hartley, Esq., bears the name of Wotobank, from the hill near which it stands. The derivation of this name is assigned by tradition to the following incident: A Lord of Beckermet, with his lady and servants, were one day hunting wolves. During the chase the lady was discovered to be missing. After a long and painful search, her body was found on this hill or bank slain by a wolf, which was discovered in the very act of tearing it to pieces. In the first transports of his grief the husband exclaimed, "Woe to this bank!"

"Woe to thee, bank! the attendants echo'd round,
And pitying shepherds caught the grief-fraught sound:
Thus, to this hour, through every changing age,
Through every year's still ever-varying stage,
The name remains, and Wotobank is seen
From every mountain bleak and valley green
MRS COWLEY'S Edwina.

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The road crosses Calder Bridge four miles from Egremont. There are two good inns in the village. Close at hand is Ponsonby Hall, the residence of E. Stanley, Esq., in a beautiful park. One mile above the village, on the north bank of the stream, are the picturesque remains of Calder Abbey, founded by Ranulph de Meschiens in 1134, for a colony of Cistertians who were detached from Furness Abbey. It subsequently received many valuable grants. At the dissolution it shared the common fate of the Romish ecclesiastical establishments.

In the church-yard at Gosforth, six miles from Egremont, there is an ancient stone pillar, which, until lately, was surmounted by a cross. The pretty village of Strands is four miles beyond Gosforth. It has two decent inns, at which boats on the lake may be procured. The ascent of Scawfell Pikes may be conveniently made from this place, by taking a boat to the head of the lake and landing at the foot of the mountain. Wast Water, one mile from Strands, is three and a half miles in length, and about half a mile broad. The deepest part yet discovered is forty-five fathoms. It has never been known to be iced over even in the severest winter. The mountains round this lake rise to a great altitude. The Screes hang over the south-east margin, and form an extraordinary feature in the landscape. Seatallan guards the opposite shore. The road traverses the north-western shore, and, six miles from Strands, arrives at the village of Wastdale Head, which consists merely of a few scattered homesteads and a little chapel. It would be a great accommodation to tourists if there were an inn at this place. Refreshment can, however, be obtained at one of the farm-houses, for which, of course, some remuneration will be given. The panorama of moun

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