TREEF CASTLE, STEWARTY OF KIRCUDBRIGHT, SCOTLAND. BY JOSEPH MOSER, ESQ. IN directing the eye of the reader to the print which forms one of the embellishments of this month's magazine, my mind neceffarily recurs to the memory of an amiable, ingenious, and much-lamented friend, the late Auguftin Touffaint, who, in the courfe of a tour which he made in Scotland in the fummer of the year 1798, fo ably and accurately delineated the fubject of it, which, as a veftige of feudality, is certainly valuable; becaufe, whilft its contemplation leads to a mental comparifon betwixt the ancient and modern itate of Caledonian society, reflection may also serve to introduce fome obfervations upon the morals and manners of former periods, which may be fometimes curious, and are, at all times, ufeful. Treef Castle, ftanding upon a fmall ifland furrounded by the river Dee, in that divifion of the thire of Galloway denominated the ftewarty of Kircudbright, at the diftance of about ten miles from the Irish Sea, feems admirably calculated to imprefs us with an idea of that gloomy magnificence with which, in this part of the country, the ancient Chieftains forming the centre point of their kindred and vaffals fupported their dignity, and alfo, as may be gathered from the walls, battlements, and moat, of that jealousy with which they regarded each other; a jea loufy which appears to have been the concomitant of the fyftem of Clanfhip which, like the feudal fyftem in this and other kingdoms, had, for a long feries of ages, formed the strongest barrier against civilization, improvement, commerce, domeftic comfort, and, indeed, public fecurity, that it is poffible for the human mind to conceive. This cattle, it has been faid, was once the refidence of that celebrated Chieftain Agnew, or Agnus of the Iflest, and it does feem, from its infulated fituation, as well as from its strength, to be peculiarly adapted for a place of retreat from purfuers, and a depository for the plunder collected in depreda tory excursions. In this age it appears ftrange, that in any part of this Ifland fuch a loose kind of morality, as well as fo relaxed a form of government, fhould ever have existed; yet it is well authenticated, that in the district wherein this Cattle stands, cattle-ftealing was once a practice not only tolerated, but promoted and calculated upon as a fource of revenue by the Chief, and that Treef, under fome of its Lairds, has opened its gates to receive herds and flocks the product of the plunder of adjacent diftricts, while its walls have frequently protected the marauders till they could convey their booty in fafety to the Hebrides 1. Having stated what tradition fays with This Gentleman was, by profeffion, a painter; had been pupil to the late G. M. Mofer, but had for fome years retired from the pecuniary purfuit of his art, upon a competent paternal fortune, to Lymington, Hants, where he died in the fpring of 1802, much regretted by a refpectable circle of acquaintance to whom his virtues and talents had endeared him. + I take it, that Donald M'Conall, who, in the reign of James the IIId, took the title of the King of the Ifles, and committed the greatest depredations upon this part of Scotland, was the defcendant of this Agnus, which was the name of feveral of the reprefentatives of the Clan, particularly one whofe exploits in the reign of Queen Elizabeth are much connected with the hiftory of the county of Antrim, Ireland. ↑ John Lefslie, Bishop of Rofs, thus defcribes the Cattle-ftealers in thofe vallies. "They fally out at night from their borders in troops through unfrequented byways and intricate windings. All day they refresh themselves and horfes in lurkingholes they had pitched upon before, till they arrive in the dark at thofe places which they had a defign upon. As foon as they get the booty, they return home in the, night, through blind ways, and fetching many a compafs. The more fkilful any Captain is to pass through those wild defarts in the thickest mifts and darkness, his reputation is the greater, and he is looked upon as a man of an excellent head. And they are fo very cunning, that, unless pursued by blood hounds, they feldo have their booty taken from them. When being taken they have fo much perfuafive eloquence, with refpect to the hiftory of this Caftle in ages when it is difficult to withdraw the thick veil of oblivion in which events are enveloped, it is neceflary to add, that we have it more authentically certified, that when the Earldom of Galloway fell to the noble family of Douglas, it came, with other demefnes, to Archibald, who was, by Charles the Seventh of France, honoured with the title of Duke of Touraine: but in its prefent decaying and dilapidated ftate, who claims the right to it I have not had the means to ascertain. Referring again to the print of this Castle, and reflecting upon the various circumftances of the lives and viciffitudes of the fortunes of the Chieftains, once its inhabitants, it certainly is a fource of pleasure to the mind to confi. der, that this fpot, which was probably, in former periods, very frequently the feat of tumult and diforder, which was either the retreat of armed bands, hoftile to their neighbours and countrymen, or the fcene whereon kindred have contended upon feme point of ceremony, or for the divifion of fpoil collected in predatory fallies; or when we mentally view the officers of the district, at the command of the feudal tyrant, attempting to drag the vaflal bands far from their native land," to devote them to the fervice of a foreign Prince, and, if they thewed any reluctance to following the banners of their Clan to France, impending the dreadful firy cross + over their cottages, and threatening them with all its terri fic concomitants: when, as I have ob ferved, we reflect that the place wherein all thofe enor nities were practifed, which, from the neglect of its own offfpring, was rendered barren, is now fmiling with cultivation, and, in confequence of a more liberal and enlightened policy, the partaker of those agricultural and commercial advantages which have, during the latt century, been diffeminated through the Inland; and that all thofe falfe and ill-founded prejudices which, for a long series of years, impeded the happiness of the people of both nations, have vanished, fo that instead of the haughty Chief or Baron infulating himself, as the print fhews he did on the one fide of the Tweed, and as many veftiges ftill extant exhibit him equally immured on the other, they now ftretch out their arms to embrace, while the only contention is, which shall attain the greateft military, naval, or literary eminence, as it is among other ranks in both countries which thall ftand most forward as the promoters of science, the extenders of commerce and manufac tures, and the practifers of piety, loyalty, and benevolence in this cafe, the most trifling memorial which tends to exhibit the picture of the present placid and happy state of the district muft furely afford the most folid fatif faction. eloquence, and fo many infinuating words at command, that if they do not move the Judges, and even their adverfaries (notwithstanding the feverity of their natures), to have mercy, yet they excite them to admiration and compaffion." Archibald Douglas accompanied the Earl of Buchan, who led feven thousand auxiliary Scottish troops to France, and who obtained a complete victory over the English at Baugy, in the courfe of which encounter the Duke of Clarence fell, was, by Charles the Seventh, made Constable of France. Douglas afterwards returned to Scotland, and towards the clofe of the year 1423 took the command of five thoufand more troops, which were fent by the Regency to the affiftance of the French Monarch, who, upon this occafion, invefted Douglas with the Duchy of Touraine, and the dignity of Lieutenant-General of the kingdom. It will be remembered, that the King of Scotlard was at this time a prifoner in the hands of the English. The Earl of Buchan, Archibald Douglas, and other Commanders, were a fhort time after routed at Vernail by the English, and there flain. Eternum memorabit Gallia Cives Grata fuos, titulos quæ dedit et tumulos. The Firy Crofs was a long pole, with two large flicks at the end interfecting each other, in the form of the Crofs of St. Andrew. Thefe fticks were fired at the command of the Chief, who, attended by his officers, &c. had them carried in folemn proceflion through the Clan. This cuftem was always reforted to when the tyrant of the dithiết decmed a confcription neceflary, and the defign of it was to threaten his vaflals with all the outrages of a licentious foldiery, and all the horrors of fire and Sword, if they did not immediately rife and follow this terrific standard. 3 TALE, "My friend," faid I, “I have nothing to give you."-This was addreffed to an old man covered with rags, who had approached within a ftep or two of the coach door, his red night-cap in his hand.-His mouth was filent, but his attitude and eyes afked charity. He had a dog, who, as well as his mafter, kept his eyes fixed upon me, and feemed to folicit relief. "I have nothing," faid I, a fecond time. It was a lie, and betrayed a want of feeling-I blushed at having faid it-But, thought I to myself, thefe people are fo troublefome !-This one, however, was not fo-" God preferve you!" faid he, humbly, and retired. "Ho! Hey! Ho! Hey! hories in a moment !" A berlin had just drove up. The poftilions were all in motion. The beggar and his dog advanced, obtained nothing, and with drew without a complaint. ugly, and bare of hair. I was afto- Thou At this moment, a window of the berlin was let down, and some remains of cold meat, on which the travellers had breakfafted, fell from the carriage. -The two dogs fprang forwardThe berlin drove away; and one of them was crushed beneath the wheel'Twas the beggar's. The animal gave a cry.-It was his lat. His matter flew to his affiftance, overwhelmed with the deepest despair. He did not weep. Alas! he could not. "My good man !" cried I.-He looked forrowfully round. I threw him a crown piece. He let the crown roll by him, as if unworthy his attention. He only thanked me by an affectionate inclination of the head, and took his dog in his arms. A man who had just behaved improperly would be forry to meet any one who, in his place, would not have done the fame. If the travellers in the berlin had bestowed any thing on the beggar, I believe it would have given me lome concern.-" After all," faid I," thefe people are much richer than I am; and fince-Good God!" cried "My friend," faid the foldier, holdI," is their cruelty an excufe for ing out his hand with the five shillings mine "This reflection fet me at which he had picked up, the worthy variance with mytelf-I looked after English Gentleman gives you this mothe poor man, as if I withed to call ney-He is very happy; he is rich! him back. He was fitting on a tone but all the world is not fo.-I have nofeat, his dog before him, reiting his thing but a dog: you have loft yours. head on his mafter's knees, who conti-Mine is at your fervice." At the nued to stroke him, without paying any attention to me. Upon the fame feat I perceived a foldier, whose dusty shoes proclaimed him a traveller. He had laid his knapsack on the feat, between him and the beg gar, and upon his knapfack his hat and Iword. He was wiping his forehead with his hand, and feemed to be taking breath to continue his journey. His dog (for he too had a dog) was fitting belide him, and caft a haughty look upon the paffers-by. This fecond animal made me more attentive to the firit, who was black, fame time, he tied round his dog's neck a fmall cord, which he put into the hands of the old man, and walked away. "O Monfieur le Soldat!" cried the goed old man, on his knees, and extended his hands towards him.-The foldier till went on, leaving the beg gar in a transport of gratitude. But his bleffings-and mine, will follow him wherever he goes." Good and gallant feilow," faid I, "what am I compared with thee? I have only given this unfortunate man money, but thou hast restored to him a friend." PIND. PIND. NEM. . ἀντιστροφή. ά. Τὸ μοι, θέμεν Κρονίδας φέγγος. Ειδ' ἔτι ζαμενεῖ Τις σὸς πατὴρ ἐθάλπετο, ποι- θαμά με τῷδε μέλει κλιθείς, Saturnian Jove awakes my lyre, Which Timafarchus' triumph shall prolong • Be this the proem of my fong. And may that feat, whole turrets ftately rife, Seat of the acide, my labours prize; Where hofpitality maintains its right, And, leagu'd with justice, beams with radiance bright. If ftill Timocritus, thy fire, Were warm'd with Phoebus' genial fire, He, wont on tuneful harps to play, Would stoop to listen to my lay, And fing the hymn referv'd for this triumphal day: PINDAR, as we have feen, has prepared Τὰ μακρὰ δ ̓ ἐξενέπειν Through all the parts of his ode, how. and its tutelary deities. The chain, thus dexterously linked, preferves its continuity. His enemies thought otherwife. They cenfured his digreffions, as unfightly tumours; his moral maxims, as fhreds and patches of ordinary materials. Thefe ftrictures, whether jutt or not, eventually produced caution. The poet frequently corrects himself, and restrains his Mufe. I am entered, he fays, upon the depths of ocean: but I must return, and make for fecurity to the thore. Fas eit vel ab holte doceri. His enemies, who thus teas'd, could not terrify him. The poet stood collected in his eagle-might. He knew, that envy and obloquy are the conftant attendants on excellence. He knew, that if he ftretched his pinions, and prepared to pounce, the affrighted flock would retire with a fcream. ACCOUNT OF HAMBOURG, OR HAMBURGH. THERE is nothing like fetting off a good fire fide, the profpect of dinner, and a ramble on thore after it-not the writer of this-he feels it nevertheless very keenly from recollection, and by referring to the recollection of others The pacquets fail regularly every upon fimilar occafions, he can do withweek, wind and weather permitting,out it-in fact-these are things only to from Yarmouth, but as there is no ac- be felt, they baffle every power of decounting for their caprice, the paffen- fcription from the pencil or the pen. ger may chance to wait a long while before he takes his departure, and if he should chance not to have much money in his pocket (which fometimes happens to molt men, and has happened to the writer of this more than once in his life,) it is proper to inform him, that the inns at Yarmouth are expenfive, and that their landlords have very confined notions of credit-not to mince the matter-they are bad Catholics, having no kind of faith whatever. The expence of the paflage is from five to eight guineas. Trading veffels are alfo almoft conftantly going to Hambourg from most of our great fea-ports, but in thefe times, they wait for convoy, fo that the traveller by going this way may chance to meet the fame inconvenience before alluded to. When he has plenty of money in his pocket, it matters not fixpence which way he goes; but if not, the best way is to go to Gravelend, and thence by a bye-boat, which is fomewhat cheaper, and there is in general more attention and civilify it will nevertheless be advifable any way to take his own provifions, in as much as the ftomach in a fea voyage is apt to be full as capricious as the winds, and fhip fare does not confift of delicacies. The neceffary passport, whether obtained at Gravefend or any other port (and in this the Captain will be his director) is about four or five fhillings. The paffage is fometimes made in forty-eight hours, but the common period is fix or feven days. The best things he can bring with him are English guineas; bank notes will not pals here, After a fo fo paffage, who can defcribe the longings for a clean fhirt, fhaving, &c. a comfortable breakfalt, The travellers (let it be fuppofed) are now landed at Cuxhaven, which is about feventy miles from Hambourg; a fmall village that affords nothing to compenfate for the trouble and expence of waiting longer than is neceffary, but in it are two good English taverns, viz. Miles's-and Ellifon's-from hence the way is by water in a Blankanefe boat, which will arrive in a few hours according to wind and weather, or by land in a tool waggon, which must be bargained for at difcretion, but this takes two days to perform the jour ney. When at Hambourg, the firft queftion is, WHERE SHALL WE GO? If the traveller fpeaks German, and withes to figure away in the German ftyle, let him go to the King of England, or the Kayferfhoff, or the Red Houfe; but if he wishes to be altogether in the Engli flyie, with English fires, English dinners, English beds, English newspapers, and English waiters,-let him go to ATKINSON'S AT THE NEW GLOBE, where alfo he will have another advantage, for directly oppofite is LILBURNE'S OLD GLOBE TAVERN, frequented by captains of fhips from every quarter of the globe, and where, of courfe, every kind of information that is likely to be wanted may be easily and readily obtained. But to return to Hambourg. It is a very large, clofe and dirty town, alike difagreeable, and it should feem, unhealthy, winter and fummer: it is furrounded by fortifications, and is faid to contain about one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants, one thoufand of which are fupposed to be Englith, and five thoufand other foreigners, three of whom are French. It lies in the fhape of a half moon. *See a View of Hamburgh in our Magazine for October, 1799. VOL. XLIII. FEB. 1803. е Part |