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CULTURE OF THE VINE IN AUSTRALIA.

tial, and the land should be previously well manur- fully treated hereafter. In trellises, vines have ed and plowed in. In trenching, care must be hitherto been very much crowded. It may in taken to place the top soil, which has been manur- general be said that in this country the trellis ed, at the bottom of the trench, and the virgin soil, should never be less than 18 feet wide, and the which has been taken from the bottom, is to be plants 20 feet asunder; the old wood an upright laid on the top. The subsoil thus placed on the stem, the bearing wood always horizontal. surface prevents the roots from pushing upwards, The chief object in pruning a vine is to increase which would injure the plant; and the manured its fertility, which is effected by cutting out the susoil at the bottom of the trench nourishes and perabundant wood, and adjusting the number and draws the roots downwards, thereby protecting length of the branches which are to remain, to the them from the scorching heats of summer. Trench- age and strength of the plant, for the ripening of the ing should take place in dry weather, and the clods fruit, and for the production of wood for the ensumust be well pulverized, as hollow spaces in the ing year. The great object to be gained is to get soil are prejudicial to the plants. The land should rid of as much old wood as possible, as it never now be walked upon as little as possible, especially bears fruit after the first year, yet has still to be in wet weather. supplied with sap which ought to be applied to the On Manures.-A variety of opinion exists as to production of fruit, and shoots for the following the sort of manure best adapted for the vineyard, year. Now, on the old system of spur pruning, it but the prevailing belief is, that the manure of cat-is quite evident that in a few years there is a great tle is best suited for light, sandy, or gravelly soils, accumulation of old wood which cannot be got rid which are liable to aridity; and that the manure of of, which is not only unsightly to the eye, but is a the horse, sheep, or goat, is best calculated for positive injury to the tree, and a great loss of fruit; strong and damp soils in level vineyards. The there are also at the time of pruning a much greater manure of pigs is supposed to be prejudicial to the number of wounds to be healed, which likewise flavor of the wine, and too much manure is also take away from the strength of the plant. To obinjurious to its quality; but this observation does viate all this, the Committee would recommend the not apply to new vineyards, where the cuttings and system of long pruning, for which they will now young plants must require much nutriment in the proceed to give some directions as being not only early stages of their growth. more simple, but more efficacious in every respect

It is hardly necessary to observe that a vineyard should be effectually fenced against all descriptions of live stock, but this important work may in the present instance be deferred until the vineyard is planted, the operations of which will probably fully occupy the remaining part of the present

season.

First Year-As soon as the vines are planted cut them down to within three eyes of the ground. In the spring, when the buds begin to break, take the two strongest shoots and tie them carefully to sticks as fast as they grow, never allowing them to be blown about by the wind. As soon as you have secured two shoots by tying them, rub off the other, the only object in leaving three shoots being to guard against the accident of one being broken; keep them thus growing all the summer, pinching off all the laterals, but leaving one eye to each of them, which is left as a vent for any superabundance of sap; for if the tree is very strong and the laterals are taken off without leaving an eye, it will often flow into the fruit buds, and cause them to burst, and thus spoil them for fruit the ensuing year; this is meant as a general rule, let the age of a plant be what it may.

Second Year.-At the proper season for pruning cut both shoots down to about a foot, and spread them out in a horizontal direction, one to each side, taking care not to break them; and secure them in that position. In the spring, when you have secured two shoots, one from each branch as near the extremity as possible, rub off all others, so as to throw all the strength of the plant into them.

Having fixed on a vineyard site, and determined on the sort of produce to be cultivated, the suitable cuttings should be obtained, cut into lengths of three buds, tied in bundles, and laid in a cool dry place; watered over, or plunged into water occasionally, and, the day before planting, the lower ends re-cut, so as to renew the wound, and the bundles set upright in about four inches depth of water; the object being to start the vegetation of the lower before the upper part. They are then to be planted, and, assisted by a little manure, with the uppermost bud a little above the surface. Should this bud refuse to vegetate, lay bare the second. Cuttings should be from vines above 4 years old, if possible; the shoots of young vines being too porous to form good stems. Of course, the thickest and nearest to the old stems are preferred. The distance of the plants is a subject on which we are hardly able as yet to afford much information; the European vineyards differing in this Third Year. The plants now, if they have been respect to the enormous extent of from 10 inches properly attended to, will have made strong shoots, to 7 feet. Two points are to be attended to-the and be able to bear fruit; in that case, cut one shelter of the ground from the sun, and the space shoot down to one eye, leaving the other from two requisite for the proper supply of wood, and for the to three feet long. Now, if this were left quite convenience of tillage and vintage. Without en-perpendicular, it is certain that only two or three tering at length on this very important but imper- eyes at most would break, and those at the extreme fectly known subject, the Committee are inclined to end. To obviate this, the shoot must be bent and recommend 4 feet distance in the rows, and 5 feet between the rows; from a combined consideration of the great heat of our vintage season, and the luxuriant growth of our vines. This subject, as well as the pruning, training, &c., will be more

tied in the shape of the letter S; the bends in which, checking the flow of sap, cause the buds to break regularly all the way up. As soon as the shoots are long enough pinch off the tops, leaving four eyes above the fruit, so as to throw all the

SIXTH ANNUAL SHOW OF THE N. Y. STATE AG. SOCIETY.

sap into it. The other shoot that was cut down to one eye must be suffered to grow as long as possible, as that is to be the fruit-bearing shoot the next year.

Fourth Year. The branch which has borne fruit must now in its turn be cut down to one eye, and the other, which was allowed to grow its full length all the summer, must take its place, being trained in the same way, only that, as the tree is now stronger, a greater length of wood may be left for fruit, which will increase every year as the tree gets older, bearing in mind the principle, that the two shoots must bear on alternate years, one shoot bearing fruit and the other preparing for the next year. This course may be continued until the tree is strong enough to have two more shoots laid in, one on each side; when having four shoots the proper method to cut them would be to let Nos. 1 and 3 bear one year, and the next year Nos. 2 and 4, by which means your fruiting shoots would never interfere with each other.

As a general rule for the length of shoots to be left, the following table is recommended, taking the girth of the stem six inches from the ground. As the length increases, care must be taken that the number of bends also increase, giving a good bold bend every time; it will not injure them even if the bark cracks a little in the operation :

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western segment was occupied by the horses. Near the centre of the ground was Floral Hall, devoted to flowers and fruits; on either hand in the rear, were the Domestic Hall, for fabrics of all kinds; Farmers' Hall, for butter, cheese, lard, &c. ; and Mechanics' Hall, for farm implements of the smaller and higher finished kinds. Then there was the great tent pitched on the south side, at least 40 feet in diameter, under which was delivered the annual address, and the reports of Committees read. At the north side were various small tents for the use of Committees, &c. The Business Office stood outside of the enclosure, at the north-east entrance; the Ticket Office a little distance south, immediately fronting, and about 100 yards in advance of the great entrance gate to the show grounds. In addition to these, two halls on the north side within the enclosure were allowed to be occupied for refreshments for visitors. Plenty of hay and water were provided for the stock on the show grounds. Floral Hall was upwards of 120 feet long, and in form of a Greek Temple. The front and pillars were densely covered with evergreens, giving it a most enchanting rural appearance. The other buildings were of corresponding size, and very commodious. Taking it all in all, the arrangements were more complete than at any former exhibition of the Society; and the Committee superintending them deserve high praise for their indefatigable endeavors to make everything so perfect on the occasion.

Trial of Plows.-This took place on Tuesday the 15th. There were few plows present, and these not of the best kind. However, we consider this of no importance, so long as the trials are conducted as the Society has hitherto pleased to order them. They prove nothing at all, and are a mere waste of time. The excellent Committee on the occasion did the best they could to make the most of the affair. But pray what results can they arrive at, so long as one quality of ground, and that a stiff clayey green sward, is to be turned over? Does the plow best fitted for this, answer best in a deep

(a) The month of August in Australia corre- friable loam ? or on a light sandy soil? or in a wet sponds to February in the United States.

SIXTH ANNUAL SHOW

OF THE

meadow? or among rocks and stumps? or on a stubble field? We should be very glad to have these questions answered, if they can be satisfactorily and in accordance with the rational principles of mechanics.

Wednesday and Thursday were the great show days, and early on the morning of the first, the people, stock, &c., began to assemble, and soon filled the area of the show-ground.

NEW YORK STATE AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. THIS was held at Auburn, on the 15th, 16th, and 17th of September. The concourse of people attending it was as great as at any of the preceding exhibitions; full 40,000 having visited the grounds during the three days of the show. A copious Horses. This was, as we expected, the best exshower fell on the night of the 14th, which com-hibition of horses by far that has ever been made. pletely laid the dust, and nothing could have been There were present the beautiful thorough-bred, more favorable than the weather which followed. the superb roadster, the poney Morgan, and the imShow Ground. This comprised about thirteen mense cart horse, together with mares, foals, and acres, and was laid out on Capitol Hill, in the pre-match carriage and single horses. Thursday aftercincts of the village. The ground was well chosen, being covered with a firm turf, of a slightly rolling surface, and commanding a beautiful view of the adjacent country. It was enclosed with a high, tight board fence, inside of which, at a suitable distance, was a railing put up all around, except on the front side, to form the carriage drive. The sheep and pig pens were arranged along the south and west sides of this railing within, while the cattle were tied up on the north side. The intermediate

noon all these were drawn up in two lines fronting each other, with 20 or 30 feet of open space between them. The stallions, mares, and foals, occupied one line, and the match and single horses, in harness and under the saddle, the other line. They stretched quite across the show grounds and made a most imposing display. It might be considered invidious in us to distinguish upon such an occasion, but we must confess we were highly pleased with Busirus, belonging to Dr. Irvine of Pennsylvania. He was

SIXTH ANNUAL SHOW OF THE N. Y. STATE AG. SOCIETY.

The Address.-This was delivered under the great tent, on Thursday, at 3 P. M., by Samuel Stevens, Sheep.-A larger number of Saxons and Merinos Esq., of Albany, and was replete with just and were present than ever before shown-some of noble sentiments, expressed in a happy manner. which were very fine, and others ordinary enough. A large audience was present, and expressed themRepresentatives from several flocks which we ex-selves highly pleased with the effort. After the pected to see here, from some cause or other were not present. The Long-wools and Southdowns were few in number, but of a good quality.

EUROPEAN AGRICULTURE.-HORTICULTURAL NOTES.-NO. 2.

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European Agriculture.

REVIEWER of the Agriculturist, in his article page 223, seems disposed to be very severe upon me. Every man has certainly a perfect right to his opinion and private judgment, and if the mode in which he chooses to express himself appears best to him, I shall certainly not quarrel with his taste. Two things in respect to my work, however, it seems but fair to consider. First, the miscellaneous character of my subscribers; hence the great mistake I made in publishing as I went along in numbers, instead of waiting until the Tour was completed, which would have given me the opportunity of executing it much more maturely, and perhaps better. I should have done it, I had almost said, in half the time; but the necessity of sending it over in numbers, and in many cases before I had seen all I wished to see, has been an occasion of great delay and vexation. I think, however, my subscribers will not complain of the execution of the work so far as its appearance and typography are concerned; and all I can say in respect to its subject matter, I have done as well as I know how, and we know all that we can have of a cat. I only hope it may be the foundation for somebody else to do much better, and no one will rejoice more than I shall in everything which contributes to advance the agricultural improvement of my own country, and her substantial welfare and glory.

London, Aug. 3d, 1846. HENRY COLEMAN.

HORTICULTURAL NOTES.-No. 2.

Culture of the Grape Vine.-The first thing required in the preparation of the ground for grapes, is to ensure perfect drainage. Animal manures, a deep soil, and a sufficient extent of border, containing from 100 to 1,000 square feet, to each vine, according to the mode in which it is to be pruned, are essential to its perfection.

is left, and no fruit is removed, the branches will be imperfect. I have removed all but one eye, and all but one bunch of fruit. The bunches under this treatment were all perfect, but not larger nor better than where two bunches had been left, and the vines soon began to make a new crop of fruit. The best rule I have been able to form, is to have only one eye, except on a few very vigorous stems, and to have two bunches on every stem, except a few of the weakest. If a second crop appears, esteem it an evidence of too much pruning-of course it should be taken off. I am not able to say whether it would not be better to leave two eyes and one bunch from each, instead of growing two bunches on one stem.

I

On the

The summer pruning is a matter of great importance. The theory on which I act is this. A certain amount of foliage is necessary to the elaboration of the sap by which the fruit is perfected. Each bunch is dependent upon the whole foliage of its vine, especially upon the leaves of its own branch, and most of all upon the opposite leaf; and the action of the sun upon the leaves is necessary to the perfect elaboration of the sap. I conclude, therefore, that when we remove leaves remote from the fruit, and thereby admit more sun to those on which the perfection of the fruit more immediately depends, we are doing good. Again, in the later part of the season, when the growth of the vine has become retarded, the removal of the extreme branches is not followed by the formation of new leaves, which do not attain their growth in time to benefit the fruit. The old leaves receive then all the sap-thus again we do good. other hand, if the shortening is made too soon, the sap goes to form new leaves, and is not elaborated in time to improve the fruit. Again, if the vine is not shortened at all, the sap is divided, part going to elaborate in the old leaves, and part to increase the growth of the young leaves. The last is lost to the crop. The most vigorous shoots are those During the first two seasons, the vine should be which are trained upwards. The largest bunches trained as much as possible perpendicularly, to are seen on vigorous shoots which hang down. promote its growth. It should receive no pruning The choicest bunches on my vines are on the until the year in which it is designed to produce largest young wood, made to hang down after it fruit. Pruning has no object before this period, had got growth. If a vine could be made to grow and it tends to retard the growth of the roots. upwards till about the 1st of August, and then to Spur-pruning is most commonly practised, the hang down with its leading shoots, it would be short pruning more commonly recommended; nei-placed, I apprehend, in the very best condition for ther is to be exclusively preferred; each being best perfecting its fruit. On a small number of vines, I in its place. In small gardens, especially in towns, apprehend the object would be attained without where space for numerous vines is wanting, much trouble. A large upright limb of a pear tree, although there is ample room for training on a in my grounds. was broken by the weight of its trellis, or side of a house, a single vine may be well-grown fruit. The fruit proved the best on the made to yield on the spur-pruning system, much tree. When a branch hangs down, the flow of the more fruit than could be obtained by shortening it sap prevents its return to the roots, and directs it back, and depending upon new wood entirely. from the leaves and wood to the fruit. The prac On the other hand, in vineyards, the shortening tice of ringing or cutting the bark in a circle system saves much of the labor of training the around the main stem of the vine, is common in wines in the spring, and of the summer pruning, France. I have so treated the Isabella, with adand it distributes them more equally over the vantage to the growing crop, but as I thought to ground. But in these two systems, neither the the injury of that of the next year. quality nor the quantity of fruit is essentially different.

Disbudding and removing Fruit.-I am not aware that precise rules have been laid down as to the extent to which these operations should be carried. In the spur system, if more than one eye

My

An opinion is held by some that the action of the sun on the fruit is useful; on the contrary, the finest bunches will be found in the shade. gardener treated one of my Isabella vines as he had been accustomed to in a former place, by shortening the bearing branches about the 15th of

July, to two eyes from the fruit. The branches the different crops. The best soil is a rich mellow got the start of those in the other vines, but they loam, the worst, a stiff heavy clay." (Forsyth.) did not maintain their superiority more than three "In the same garden there never should be weeks, and after the middle of August, were deci- wanting different soils; and where nature has been dedly inferior to the others, which were not stopped different, recourse must be had to art; inasmuch as so short, or at all. The hanging down plan I the variety of fruits and vegetables to be cultivated would prefer to all others, but that it is not very requires different soils to produce them in perfecpracticable on a large scale, or always convenient tion. It would be absurd, however, to imagine, on a small one. The laterals opposite the fruit, that for every particular vegetable there is to be a in contact with the fruit leaf, should not be touch-particular soil prepared." (Loudon.)

ed, and neither stopping nor taking off any laterals It is found that a light sandy loam is the best soil should be practised until the growth or the season for a kitchen garden. This may be formed where is on the wane. the predominant soil is either clay, peat, or sand. A free marl is likewise well calculated for garden culture.

Manures. I have satisfied myself that stable manure used as a top-dressing in summer, is a cause of mildew, and in a less degree also in the fall, if liberally applied. Whether ashes or animal manures produce a like effect, I am not certain, but I shall abstain altogether in future from manuring in summer. What other causes of mildew there may be, I know not, but think there can be little doubt that want of air, from superabundance of foliage, is one, or perhaps too much foliage, and short stopping, may induce it by the same cause, i. e., preventing a due supply of elaborated sap, the leaves in one case being cut off, in the other, the proximate leaves being excluded from the action of the sun.

I wish some of your correspondents would take up the subject of insects on out-door vines. The removal of the proximate laterals leaves the bunch without resource, if the proximate leaf is attacked (and it seems to be that which most suffers), and this is an additional reason for respecting it.

AN AMATEUR GARDENER.

GARDENING.-No. 8. THE soil for a kitchen garden, it is obvious, is of the greatest importance, being, however, a subordinate consideration to situation, and may be changed by art, or improved as occasion may require; but not so with the situation. "The best soil for a garden is a sandy loam, not less than two feet deep, and good earth, neither of a binding nature in summer, nor retentive of rain in winter; but of such a texture, that it can be worked without difficulty, in any season of the year. If it can be done, a garden should be made on land the bottom of which is not of a springy nature." (McPhail.)

"In selecting ground for a garden, the plants growing naturally on the surface should be noted, as from these a pretty correct opinion may be formed of the qualities of the soil. In every garden two varieties of soil are wanted, a strong and a light one, in other words, a clayey loam, and a sandy loam; different plants require these respective kinds. For the general soil, a loam of middling quality, but partaking rather of the sandy than the clayey, is accounted best." (Neill in Edin. Ency., Art. Hort.)

"The soil of a garden should be two or three feet, but if deeper the better, of a mellow, pliable nature, and of a moderately dry quality; and if the ground should have an uneven surface, by no means attempt to level it, for by that unevenness, and any little difference there may be in the quality, you will have a greater variety of soil adapted to

As respects the exposure of a garden, authors differ; some preferring an easterly exposure, as Abercrombie and others, and some a southerly exposure, as Nicol, Switzer, and Marshall. If, however, a situation combining exposure to two or three points can be obtained, we should prefer it, as in many cases a northern aspect is desirable, as it is much cooler for some summer productions, and especially for late successive crops.

The extent of the kitchen garden must be regulated by the requirements therefrom. An acre, with wall trees, hot-beds, &c., will furnish employment for one man. It is better to have too much than too little space, as a large garden attached to a small house is no deformity.

In regard to form, almost all the authors above quoted, agree in recommending a square or oblong, but Abercrombie proposes a long octagon, by which, he says, a greater portion of the wall in the slips behind will be on an equality with the garden, as to aspect. Irregular figures are admissible, and by some are preferred even to regular geometrical ones. The area enclosed by the walls of a garden, is usually formed into compartments, commonly called quarters, borders, slips, and walks. The magnitude and number, both of compartments and borders, as well as of the walks, depend on the size of the garden, and on the taste of the designer.

In laying out the compartments, you must be guided, in a great measure, by the form and size of the garden; but do not lay them out too small, as, in that case, a great part of the ground will be taken up with walks and borders. The best figure is a square, or oblong, when the garden is of that form; but, if not, they may be laid out in any other figure that is thought to be most convenient." (Forsyth.)

"The best gardens are laid out in beds four feet wide, with narrow alleys. So many alleys, no doubt, occupy a deal of room; but advantages of conveniency and neatness, in enabling the workmen to clean and gather the crops, without trampling the ground, seem to compensate for the sacrifice of space." (Neill.)

The best seasons for forming a garden are the spring and summer; but, at all events, at whatever time the operations are begun, they should be arranged so as to be finished early in autumn, to admit of planting fruit trees and laying edges, at that season, or very early in the ensuing spring.

The cultivation of a garden includes the performance of all those things that are requisite to a reasonable and prolific production. A kitchen garden,