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CHAPTER XXVII.
THE VALLEY OF GLACIERS.
The Kanzam Pass-The L Peaks-Enormous glaciers-Shigri or Glacier
Valley-Storm and snow-A night scene-Crossing a glacier-
Incredible performances of a ghúnt - Spiti ponies - Fall of a
mountain-Glacier flowers-Fording streams-A fall-Djeóla-
Tibetan dogs-Silver,
Living glacier flowers
-
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE ALPS AND HIMÁLAYA.
Subterranean glaciers - Alps and Himálaya
contrasted-Savage grandeur of the Himalaya-Shattered peaks
-The Alpine and Himálayan people,
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE HIMALAYA.
Extreme length of Himalaya-"The Stony Girdle of the Earth'
"The Roof of the World"-Meaning of "the Abode of Snow
Latin, Greek, and Slav cognates-Abode of the Gods-German
Himmel-Milton's Imaus-Place in Hindú mythology-Personified
as Siva-Line of perpetual snow in Himálaya, Andes, and Alps-
Dryness of atmosphere-Effect of solar rays-Temperature of day
and night-Altitude and longevity,
CHAPTER XXX.
THE MORAVIANS IN LAHAUL.
Characteristics of Lahaul - An ancient language-Magnificent ava-
lanches The Moravian Mission - A howling wilderness-
Lahaulese disorderliness-Routes from Kaelang to Kashmir-The
Zanskar route-Flowery maidans-"A little difficult "-Alarmed
servants-Sad fate of a policeman,
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE GREAT SCHINKAL PASS, OR SCHINGO LA.
The valley of stone avalanches-A Hindú devotee-The Dread Mother
—Ramjakpúk—Col of the Schinkal-Height of the pass-Highest
ascents The region of perpetual snow-Trouble with coolies-
The Wild Horseman of the Glacier-A snowstorm,
256
272
278
286
295
CHAPTER XXXII.
MIDNIGHT THOUGHTS.
The scene at midnight-Flaming stars-Immensity of the universe-
Snowy peaks and starlit spaces-Perfection of organic existence
-Misery of sentient life-The Hardwar tigress-The African
continent-Opinion of Eastern sages-Even Christian doctrine—
Wordsworth - Goethe's Das Göttliche-John Foster-Monads-
Practical conclusion,
305
CHAPTER XXXIII.
THE TSARAP LINGTI VALLEYS.
The Kharjak valley-Tremendous series of glaciers-Gigantic pyramid
— Perplexing mountains - Wonderful colours - Fatigue of the
journey-Kharjak village-Its Talúkdár-Thesur-Junction of
the Kharjak Chu and Tsarap Lingti-Pune monastery-Char—
Burdun monastery-Arrive at Padain,
CHAPTER XXXIV.
ZANSKAR.
Camping-ground-Padam-Seclusion of Zanskar-Its people-Area-
Elevation-Valleys-A curious theory,
CHAPTER XXXV.
ом MANI PADME HAUN.
Choten Mani - Inscribed and sculptured stones - Praying stones,
flags, wheels, and mills - Koeppen on the universal prayer –
Meaning of Om mani padme haun-Its Sanscrit origin,
CHAPTER XXXVI.
SNOWED UP IN ZANSKAR.
A great snowstorm-Phe-Take refuge in a Tibetan house-Descrip-
tion of the house-An open roof-A winter in Phe-Two
delightful children-The grandmother-Features of the men-
Hebrew-looking Baltis,
315
322
327
333
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE SNOWY PENSE LA.
After the storm-A lovely scene-Night in the waste-Bears-Glacier
and deep snow-Col of the pass-Dangerous riding-Effect of
the sun- -Dazzling whiteness-Ser and Mer peaks-Hiouen Tsang's
description-Descent-The Chiling Pass-Description of the Ring-
dom monastery-Marches,
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
341
THE OMBA PASS.
Difficulty of descending on Kashmir-Kartse-Sankú-Omba-A big
hill-Fugitive coolies-Snow blindness-Height of the pass-A
dilemma - A double pass-Darkness-Another pony-An awful
gorge,
351
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE ZOJI PASS AND SIND VALLEY.
Dras--The source of snow-Matáan-The Wuzeer's Wuzeer administer-
ing the stick-The Yarkand envoy's retinue-The Zoji La-
Curious road-Baltal-Beauty of the Panjtarne valley-Demon
lovers-The Sind valley-Splendid trees-Reach Srinagar,
361
CHAPTER XL.
THE VALLEY OF ROSES.
Kashmir and surrounding countries-Climate-General characteristics
-Union of summer and winter - Encircling snows- Waters-
Vegetation - Srinagar-Apple-tree canal-Dal or city lake-
Floating islands-The lotus-Shalimar Bagh-Nishat Bagh-The
Emperor Jehangir and the Light of the World,
371
CHAPTER XLI.
KASHMIR PEOPLE AND AFFAIRS.
Regrets in Kashmir-Unfortunate state of the people-Their bad
reputation-Ill-treatment of them - Kashmirí beauties - Suspi-
cious deaths-Lieutenant Thorpe-Dr Elmslie-Mr Hayward—
Books on Kashmir, .
381
CHAPTER XLII.
THE MAHARAJA AND THE RESIDENT.
Interview with Ranbir Singh-His father a fish-Transmigration-
The Maharaja's alleged misrule- His improvements-Sericulture
-Shawls-Col. Gardiner-Nights at the Residency-An Afghan
Abdiel - Character of Le Poer Wynne- His early death — The
abhorred shears-The true consolation of fame,
394
CHAPTER XLIII.
THE UPPER JHELAM.
Kashmir boats-Pándrathan-Hunting-dogs-Bijbehara-Analysis of
its population-Population of Kashmir-Fish-Islamabad-Crocus
Jehángír's humour- A Khiva horse - Bhúmjú caves-
General Cunningham's duty,
plants
CHAPTER XLIV.
HYDASPES: FONS ET ORIGO.
Kashmir formerly a lake-The monster Yaldeo-The saint Kashaf—
Hindú argument for polytheism-Ruins of Mártand-Their anti-
quity-Sketch of Kashmir early history-Serpents-Achibal and
Vernag-The schoolboy's Hydaspes,
CHAPTER XLV.
KASHMIR TO THE HAZARA.
The Manas and Wúlar lakes-Beautiful mirrored scenes-Suggestions
of the under-world-The middle Jhelam valley-Mozafarabad—
Farewell to tents The Hazara district - Abbotabad and its
society,
CHAPTER XLVI.
THE FIGHTING VILLAGE OF KUBBUL.
Dangers of the Afghan border-Sending fingers in official letters -
Torbela The hero of a night attack - Visit a fighting Afghan
village-Afghan affection for murderers-Use of the knife-The
Sitana fanatics-The river Indus,
404
414
424
436
CHAPTER XLVII.
THE BASE OF THE HINDÚ KUSH.
Crossing the Indus- A picturesque scene - Men in chain-armour
The rock of Pihúr-The Hindú Kúsh-Swabi-Afghan Khans-A
blood-horse-Across the border - The ruins of Ranigat — Identi-
fied with Aornos-Antiquities of Yusufzai district,
Swat and its Akoond-The Mullah of Topi-Ethnology of the Afghans
-Their dreadful history-Their puzzling character-Influence of
fatalistic Mohammedanism-Afghan songs of love and war,
CHAPTER XLIX.
HOTI MARDÁN AND THE KHYBER PASS.
Captain Hutchinson-Advantages of residing at Hoti Mardán-Tem-
perature-Hawking-Assassinations-The Panjáb Guides and their
exploits-Our true policy in India-General John Nicholson-
The Panjab in the Mutiny - Peshiwar and its officials - The
Khyber Pass -Conclusion, .
APPENDIX-Note on the temperature of Pú,
446
454
462
474