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Bodleian and the British Museum; the Senate House, where degrees are conferred, and where the recipient of the highest mathematical honors receives his gigantic wooden spoon from his associates; and the Church of St. Mary's the Great, where the select university preachers from America as well as England are heard.

On market days the scenes hereabouts are still quaint and curious; and the term "sizar," applied to certain poorer undergraduates, arose from the custom here of rolling butter into sticks of a yard's length and cutting them into equal sizes for distribution. Nearer the river are the substantial buildings of Clare College, second in age only to Peterhouse. It is on the river behind Clare and King's that the tumultuous procession of boats occurs after the college races. The breadth of the stream below the town does not admit of racing abreast, and so the contests are arranged not to attain a fixed goal, but to "bump" each other's sterns as they lead off one behind another, a method which gives great play to the coxswain's skill. In the evening the scene here is most vivid and beautiful when the crews align the boats across the river like a pontoon

VOL. II. 15

bridge, with broadsides held together by outriggers, and all the accompaniments of brilliant lights, the smiles of fair ladies, and tumultuous cheering. Caius College once had three gates, designated as Humility, Virtue, and Honor. The second remains, the work of Doctor Caius, Queen Mary's physician, whose name in pronunciation becomes "Keys." Four great names besides are on the roll of Caius, Harvey, Jeremy Taylor, Chancellor Thurlow, and Judge Jeffreys; and the college is a favorite with budding doctors. Trinity Hall is mainly frequented by law students, and Holinshed, Bishop Gardiner, Chesterfield, Lord Lytton, John Sterling, and Chief-Justice Cockburn are among its alumni.

This hall must not be confounded with Trinity College, which is near by, consolidated by Henry VIII. from earlier foundations, and the largest college in Great Britain. In the great achievements of its graduates, and the vast extent of its influence, it yields the palm to none. No roll of its members may be here attempted; but among those of the very first rank are Newton, Bacon, Dryden, Herbert, Tennyson, Macaulay, Byron, and Thackeray! What reality does it not give when the rooms

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occupied by the first and the last three are pointed out! Though the King's Gateway is, at least in part, much older than his time, the burly form of Henry VIII. surmounts it outside, and James I., Charles I., and Queen Anne within. The Great Court to which it admits is indeed vast, being larger than even the famous "Tom Quad" at Oxford. In its Tudor Chapel are many memorials, finest of which is Roubiliac's bust of Newton. The great hall has portraits of its illustrious alumni; and in the library, among many busts of these and other personages, is Thorwaldsen's very beautiful statue of Lord Byron, and the manuscripts of many of Milton's poems. Still to the north is St. John's, second in size here, founded by Lady Beaufort, mother of Henry VII., though having a still earlier predecessor. Its famous roll numbers Roger Ascham, Burleigh, Ben Jonson, Herrick, Kirke White, Henry Martyn, Rowland Hill, Wordsworth, Wilberforce, and Palmerston; and White is also buried near by. At this point the lovely bridge that spans the river goes by the name of the Bridge of Sighs, from a fancied resemblance in general effect to its great namesake at Venice; but the similarity is by no means borne out in detail.

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