on foreigners for organzine silk thread, but in 1718 Mr. Lombe, an English capitalist, visited Piedmont disguised as a common laborer, took sketches of silk-throwing machinery in use there, and on his return erected an extensive mill at Derby, which produced more than 3,000,000 yards of organzine per day.

For many years raw silk was largely imported. Acts of Parliament were passed from time to time stimulating its manufacture, and the business was steadily advancing, when, in 1764, on account of low wages, scarcity of work, and the preference shown for French silks, the weav ers of Spitalfields and the silk operatives of other localities assembled, in a tumultuous manner, and petitioned Parliament for the total prohibition of foreign-wrought silks. The commotion was kept alive by combinations of operatives for several years, till, in 1772, it broke into open riots, which convulsed London many days, the final result being the passage of prohibition laws, which after trial proved unsatisfactory.

This system of prohibitory legislation continued till 1824. A high English authority has declared that "the manufacturer, depending upon the protection of parliamentary restrictions on foreign competition rather than on his own skill and exertions, was not anxious to discover and introduce improvements into the manufacture." And he states that "since the change of system the imports of the raw material and the exports of the manufatured article have rapidly increased." In 1825 the English silk looms numbered about 24,000; in 1855 they had increased to more than 110,000, consuming about 5,500,000 pounds of thrown silk, and producing goods to the value of near $45,000,000, besides a considerable amount of spun silk, and goods of which silk constituted a part. In 1855 England consumed of her own silk manufactures more than $35,000,000, while she imported about $20,000,000. In 1860 the value of her silk manufactures was estimated at some $90,000,000. On account of the extreme dampness and chilliness of her climate, (of which mention has been made,) she raises no silk-worms, but imports the raw material.

In 1856 the value of her imports of raw silk was (omitting fractions) $32,000,000, and in 1867 $58,000,000. It fell off in 1858 on account of the "panic," but again revived. Nearly one-half the amount of the raw material came from China, and a large share of the balance from her East India possessions.

During the three years just mentioned England imported $1,300,000 of thrown silk, more than one-half being from France, and nearly onethird from China.

In 1860 the British consumption of raw and thrown silk was 9,420,417. pounds; in 1861, 8,125,982 pounds; in 1862, 9,706,202 pounds; in 1863, 8,182,645 pounds; in 1864, 7,541,578 pounds; in 1865, 6,492,720 pounds; and in 1866 it was but 5,273,767 pounds.

In 1823 Great Britain exported of silk goods only $702,000; in 1844 it exported $3,682,000; in 1856, $14,800,000; in 1858, $11,950,000; in 1861, $11,560,900; in 1865, $10,886,000.

Thus we see that this great manufacturing nation, notwithstanding by its uncongenial climate deprived of the capacity to successfully produce the raw material, has long prosecuted a large business in the transformation of this beautiful article, though now seriously checked in many branches of its silk industry by the effect of the recent treaty with France. What an instructive lesson is thus taught to the citizens of our country, where everything combines to render the prosecution of this industry pre-eminently successful.

OTHER EUROPEAN COUNTRIES.

Italy was early famous for its silk culture and manufactures. In Milan and vicinity, in the year 1800, about 2,000,000 pounds of raw silk were said to have been collected. In 1825 the quantity was estimated at 2,700,000 pounds, valued at $10,000,000; in 1858 at 5,400,000 pounds, worth $30,000,000. In 1825 Piedmont produced about 1,500,000 pounds of raw silk of the very highest quality. In the same year Tuscany, Naples, the Romagna, and Calabria produced 1,500,000 pounds, also excellent in quality. In 1851 an Austrian official document stated the productions in the Austrian dominions of Italy at $21,700,000 in raw silk, and $14,200,000 in manufactured silks. In 1855 the total of both kinds of silk in the whole Italian peninsula was stated at upwards of $60,000,000. A considerable portion is consumed at home, and the remainder exported chiefly to Germany, France and England.

Spain produced in 1842 about 2,000,000 pounds of raw silk, three-fifths of which was raised in Valencia. About 400,000 pounds were manufac tured at home, and the rest exported. The Spanish cocoons are excellent, but much of the reeling is defective. Valencia silks, where great care has been taken in the manipulation, are famous for their magnificence.

In Prussia silk manufacture is rapidly increasing. The number of looms in 1831 was 9,000; in 1837, 14,000; in 1855, 25,000; and in 1865 not less than 40,000. In the Exhibition were superb silks, velvets, velvet ribbons, black silk ribbons, mixed and unmixed silk fabrics of various descriptions, from Crefeld, Elberfeld, Viersen and vicinity. The waters in that locality, especially those of the Wipper, hold in solution salts specially adapted to secure permanency and brilliancy to the colors employed in manufacture.

Austria is engaged somewhat extensively in silk manufacture, but since she relinquished her Italian dominions this industry has doubtless received a check.

The product of Switzerland in 1858 was placed at $20,000,000. The "Collective Exhibition of the Zurich Manufacturers" of black and colored silks, plain and figured, and the "Collective Exhibition of the Basle Silk Ribbon Manufacturers," as shown in the Exposition, evince the progress and perfection to which Swiss skill in silk industry has now attained.

Russia has already been alluded to. After France and England, the nations that come in the order of their importance in respect to silk

manufactures are Switzerland, Prussia, Austria, Italy, and Spain. France maintains a great superiority over all in her rich and artistic productions; but in plain goods, and those of a secondary quality, she finds serious rivalry in British, Swiss, and German industry. Switzerland is becoming remarkable for her activity, her constant progress, and her improvements in material interests.

In a subsequent part of this report the occasion will be embraced to examine the improvements she brought to the Exposition, since there is a great analogy between the situation and industrial genius of that republic and the social and manufacturing condition of the United States.

ASIATIC COUNTRIES AND AFRICA.

China raises, manufactures, consumes, and exports a vast amount of silk. It is impossible to estimate the quantity consumed at home. A high authority declares that, of her 400,000,000 of people, a large proportion, excepting the lowest classes, are clad more or less in silk fabrics. She exported to England alone, in 1858, nearly 10,000,000 pounds. In the East India Company's possessions the product is large. In 1857 they exported to England about 4,500,000 pounds. Persia produced great quantities, much of which is consumed at home. The amount raised in Syria and Asia Minor is some 2,500,000 pounds per annum, of which a large share is exported to France and England. Reference to other Asiatic countries, of inferior importance in this particular, is omitted.

Silk has long been produced in small quantities along the African shores of the Mediterranean. England imports some of the raw material from Egypt, but the greatest share of the productions of the Nile region is consumed at home. Tripoli produced in 1842 about 130,000 pounds. The islands of Cyprus and Crete raised in 1856 some 50,000 pounds.

SPECIALTIES OF SILK INDUSTRY.

The labor in silk comprises seven distinct branches, forming as many different industries, even when a single manufacturer conducts several in one establishment. These specialties are—

1. The breeding or rearing of silk-worms, called in France the art of the magnanier, (or silk-worm breeder.) This word comes from magnan, the name given to the grub of the white mulberry in the south of France.

The appellation magnanerie, or silk-worm nursery, is given to the locality where the worms are hatched, fed, and attended to from their birth till they have formed their silky envelope or cocoon.

These silk-worm nurseries are generally established in localities or countries favorable to the cultivation of the mulberry tree, of whose leaves, and white fruit especially, the worm is particularly fond; and also where the temperature is regular and moderate. Nevertheless, this last condition is not indispensable. It is replaced artificially by special means of warming and ventilating, so as to maintain at will, constantly, the temperature between 70° and 75° Fahrenheit, and thus be able to breed

numerous little grubs; (one ounce, or 30 grams, contains about 40,000, while from 20 ounces 800,000 have been obtained at a time, in the same place.) The result is arrived at chiefly by watchfulness in ventilation, in removing the vitiated air and replacing it by pure air.

The art of the silk-worm breeder embraces what is called "the fabrication of the graine," or, more correctly, of the eggs to be used in the reproduction. The cocoons destined for this function are the only ones whose chrysalis or grub is allowed to be transformed into the butterfly. These are moistened, and then the grub opens one of the lengthened extremities of the cocoon, and issues from it.

Then the grubs are collected by pairs, male and female, to permit fecundation before the laying of the eggs. These fecondés, suspended on paper or cloth, are subsequently put aside until the following spring, in an atmosphere of even temperature, and sufficiently low, like that of cellars.

This part of the art of the breeder, so simple in appearance, demands special knowledge and great care, particularly at this time, when it is so difficult to procure eggs free from the epidemic now raging among the silk-worms.

2. The second specialty in this industry is the filature, or reeling of the silk from the cocoons into the threads known as raw silk, and composed of fibres of a certain number of cocoons according to the size of the thread required. It is a most delicate untwisted product, but wanting in lustre on account of its containing some 25 per cent. of gum.

3. The throwing of silk, or the process of putting the raw silk into the threads required for the different kinds of weaving.

It is at the throwing that the threads are formed that figure so conspicuously at the Exposition, and also in commerce, under the names of simples, trams, and organzines. There are also other kinds of thrown silk, known as marabouts, grenadines, crèpe, soie ondée, &c., which are twisted differently from trams and organzines, for special purposes.

Let us look for a moment at the comparative value of each of these denominations. The singles are the raw silk after the first twist. The tram, or woof, is obtained by the union of two or more threads of raw silk, slightly twisted. The organzine, from which in general is made the warp, is the result of two singles twisted together.

A product of peculiar nature, frequently used in the manufacture of trimmings, is the fil guipé. It is composed of one or more straight threads, around which is rolled a spiral thread, the interior being generally of indifferent material, and the thread rolled around is composed of silk, gold, or silver.

4. The dyeing constitutes an important specialty, requiring the greatest possible delicacy and skill, pure water being essential to success. 5. The preparation of the threads for the loom is another separate and essential branch, requiring care and attention.

6. The weaving embraces in itself alone several subdivisions, namely,

the weaving of plain and cut silk goods; the weaving of velvets of figured stuff's more or less rich; the knitting of various articles and the fabrication of silk blondes or laces.

THE SPINNING OF WASTE SILK.

7. The preceding processes yield a certain quantity of waste, varying with the nature of the operations and the qualities of the products.

This waste is in its turn transformed from the raw state, where, after having been cleaned from the gummy matter, chiefly by mechanical means, it presents a close analogy to the strippings and windings of cotton and combed wool.

These processes are the basis of great industries which flourish in England and on the continent.

The threads thus produced vary in value from 30 to 60 francs the kilogram, according to their fineness and quality.

These branches of industry are now carried on to some extent by American manufacturers.

EXAMINATION OF THE POSITION OF EACH OF THESE INDUSTRIES, AND THEIR PROGRESS AS MANIFESTED IN THE EXPOSITION.

In the art of silk-worm breeding the question of first importance consists in the means of obtaining the graines, or eggs. Good eggs bear an exorbitant price. They are worth at the rate of 300 francs the kilogram, and still they cannot always be produced guaranteed against the prevailing malady, except from Japan.

The States of South America appear to enjoy the same immunity. At the commencement of the prevailing epidemic, (about the year 1846,) other countries furnished healthy eggs, but their exemption did not continue after the second or third generation. Thus it is that the United States have been led to put all silk-producing countries under contribution.

Will the eggs of Japan and of South America, at the present time so much sought after, escape this degeneracy, of which, despite the numer ous investigations, we as yet do not know the cause?

But if the cause remains concealed, the preventive means begin to be more clearly established.

The following method is generally admitted and recommended by men recognized as the most competent judges, and since it is the combined result of great experience and observation, it will be read with interest in all countries which desire to encourage the culture of the silk-worm: It is of great importance to choose for reproduction cocoons of the largest size, and those the most successfully reared and least affected with the malady during the course of their development. These cocoons are recognized by the regularity of their form, the roundness of their extremities, the fineness of grain on the surface, and the solidity and thickness of the layers or silky envelopes.