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nute, each person passes the compliment of the evening to the other, the crowd moves on, and again all is life and animation.No religious ceremony is so solemn, and at the same time, so wholly commendable.Millions passing at the same moment, suspending the hilarity of conversation, the gayety of thought, the tender sentiments of Tove, to give place to pious reflections, and grateful acknowledgments.

"Religion, in Spain, is a combination of ceremonies, rigidly enforced by priests armed with strong authority. Evening is scarcely set in, before an old man with a lantern, a small tin box, and a bell, visits your house, to receive a donation for souls purgatory: whether this is appropriated to private or ecclesiastical purposes, I could not discover. Then a procession is formed by boys and priests, carrying a large cross and candles, chanting with hoarse voices, the rosario, or prayers for rain, or other blessings. The host, accompanied by a guard, priests, and crowd, is then carried to a sick person. The passengers, without reference to situation, are compelled to sink on their knees as it passes. The numerous saints are each entitled to certain honours, which occupy a portion of each day throughout the year. This multiplication of religious ceremonies, keeps the mind eternally directed more to the fulfilment of them, than the pure purposes of religion. A multitude of priests and ecclesiastics, of various grades, who fill the houses, churches, and convents, are ever ready to enforce their precepts, and enjoy their rights, by terrors wholly temporal, and ever hostile to the interest and spirit of true religion. The Inquisition, a curse to humanity, and to that country, though stripped of a portion of its former cruelties, still retains sufficient power to awe the free-thinker, or curb the rebellious spirit of religious independence. -The mind still shackled, cannot break the chains of clerical influence: and while education is in the hands of priests, superstition and fanaticism will continue to have a national and local permanency and effect. I have looked, with astonishment, at a schoolmaster in Cadiz, who, after the conclusion of his daily labours, sends forth his scholars in procession, marches at their head, and sees each scholar safe to his home. This destroys independence in the bud: instead of permitting boys to find their way home, to encounter some little difficulties, to surmount some trifling obstacles, to establish a foundation for manly spirit and promptuess, they are led like sheep, their spirit is curbed, the inquiring disposition is checked, and, in their infancy, they are taught to be slaves, and led by some one in authority. Here the origin of that humble spirit and obedience to ecclesiastical power, are first traced; and until a radical reform takes place in the first principles of education, Spain will never alter; she will ever be internally weak and puerile; and having no Vol. IV. No. v.

44

basis, on which an effective national character can be established."

The ecclesiastical influence here detailed, leads to precisely the consequence already noticed. Active, ardent, and enterprising young men, rather than brook such everlasting and heart-chilling tutelage, deserted their country, and left their feeble associates to hopeless submis

sion.

"Society in Spain, offers few of those engaging resources found in more polished and cultivated nations. Social life derives no great charm from conversation-the females are by no means familiar with literature; their conversation is sprightly, and frequently engaging, to which the language adds some charms; but the subjects are generally common-place and indifferent.Their accomplishments seldom extend beyond a slight knowledge of music and dancing. There are no places of resort, except the Theatre, or Alamada; no dinner or tea-parties; no costly routes, or pleasant converzaliones. A species of levee called Turtulias, are customary; these are meetings at a private house, on a particular evening in the week. There were two fashionable Turtulias at Cadiz, very much frequented by Americans. At these parties slight refreshments are offered, together with cards and country dances. I saw a priest busily engaged at one of these gaming-tables, and was informed, that gain was the prominent object.

"The Cortez was in session during my stay at Cadiz. The events of the revolu tion, and the absence of the king, had revived this ancient assemblage, which in better times, without possessing much influence, exhibited talents of no common order. It was composed of representatives, civil and ecclesiastical, and also deputies from South-America. Three Regents were charged with executive duties; one of whom, the Cardinal de Bourbon, a dull and heavy priest, proved in the end, the most faithful to the constitution. The arrest of Ferdinand in France, and the abdication of Charles IV., had entirely deranged the administration of government; and the Spanish people, unaccustomed to the perplexing difficulties of managing internal and foreign concerus, ignorant of their own resources, and jealous of foreign influence, were wholly at a loss what steps to take. The Junta Central was then established, and the Marquis Wellesley drew up for them the best constitution adapted for their genius and disposition. This they rejected from motives of jealousy and suspicion. On the dissolution of this Junta, and the re-establishment of the Cortez, a new constitution was formed, defective, it is true, in

346

Noah's Travels.

many cardinal points; but sufficiently free the British, and that was the battle of Bayfor the Spanish people, and confirming len, called by them the glorious battle of rights heretofore unknown to them. The Baylen, in which 60,000 Spaniards, under Cortez held their meetings in one of the the nominal command of Castanos, but churches in the city, the doors were guard- really headed by Reding, a Swiss officer of ed by Spanish soldiers, in fatigue dress and, talents, compelled Dupont to surrender with 14,000 men. Although merit cannot be with rusty muskets. The assemblage was confused, and apparently without dignity; accorded to the Spanish army generally, or speakers mounted a species of forum, and to the nobility who had command, and whe were the least effective, yet great praise is I perceived at once, that the number of ecclesiastics scattered on the floor, was of suffi- due to the peasantry for the spirit and pacient magnitude to create an undue and dan-triotism which they evinced from the comgerous influence-an influence which was exercised to the avowed and manifest injury of that country, and which, if not wholly destroyed, will continue to keep it poor in spirit and in resources-its energy confined, and its independence destroyed.

"There were but few members of the Cortez celebrated for talents. The most distinguished for eloquence, were Cangar and Augustene Arguelles, Quintana, Rosas, and a few deputies from South-America. The two foriner were, indeed, the most eloquent men I had ever heard; their flow of words was rich and inexhaustible; still, it was evident, that in the fire of debate, in the bursts of patriotic sentiment, there was more enthusiasm than cool wisdom; more spirit than judgment; more energy than discretion. The language, the finest in the world, for parliamentary and forensic eloquence, also added not a little to the charms of debate. A singular and marked difference appeared in the character and feelings of the deputies from South-America. They were of a different order, appeared to think more than their colleagues in Spain; there was a more perfect reliance on their more familiar judgment, and they were with affairs of government. These deputies called themselves Americans,. not Spaniards; they associated familiarly with the citizens of the United States, and would generally salute us with the term pisano meo, My Countrymen.

"At this period, the British, under Lord Wellington, commanded the entire Spanish and Portuguese forces. In a military point of view, every thing around us was British. Muskets and uniforms; guas and gun-carriages; British Commissaries, British gold, and British influence. Notwithstanding the amazing sacrifices made by that government in the Peninsula, notwithstanding the loss of lives and money in that contest, it was incredible to view the suspicion, jealousy, if not hostility, of the Spanish towards their allies. They never failed to refuse any favour they had the power of conferring; they never gave to the British the merit of gaining a single victory; and when it was known, that in battle they have kept at a respectful distance, and suffered the British to bear the brunt, yet they have never failed to step in, and claim an unmerited share of the glory. During the whole contest in Spain, one solitary victory in the field was achieved without the aid of

mencement to the termination of the con-
test; a spirit which neither privation could
depress, nor reverse of fortune destroy.
They saw their dwellings in flames, their
property lost, and their families massacred,
without shaking the firmness of their patri-
The sieges
otic efforts, or surrendering their country to
the control of the invaders.
sustained by the Spaniards, particularly Sa-
ragossa and Gerona, were highly honour-
able to their energy and perseverance; and
on the whole, it may be said, that the
guerillas and peasantry, together with a few
partizan officers, such as Ballosteros, Pa-
lafox, &c. were entitled to all the merit ac-
quired by the Spanish in that revolution.
The operations of the French in Spain, were
directed by a weak policy; not because
they have failed, but in consequence of
falling into a very common, but frequently
a very fatal error, that of under-rating the
power, disposition, and resources of the
enemy. The French calculated on no ef-
fective resistance in Spain or Portugal:
flushed with victories over more disciplined
and more enlightened foes, they encountered
a dangerous enemy, in arousing the pride,
and wounding the feelings of the people;
and what could have been acquired by
mildness and deference, force and power
could not effect. That the reign of Joseph
Buonaparte would have been of singular be-
nefit to Spain, cannot be denied; he com-
menced his administration with mildness;
he would have gradually, with increase of
popularity, abrogated those ancient civil
and ecclesiastical usages, which have cramp-
ed Spain and robbed her of character.-He
would have softened the habits, and ame-
liorated the condition of the people, by the
introduction of literature, the establishment
of schools, the advancement of the arts, and
above all, by throwing open the ports to
the enterprising of all nations, by releasing
commerce from its shackles, and recalling
those people whom the bigotry and igno-
rance of Spain had banished. These would
have been the results of his reign; a view
of France, for the last twenty years, justifies
the opinion. The Spaniards feit no great
abhorrence to Joseph Buonaparte; their ha-
tred was rather directed against Napoleon.
They called Joseph the intrusive king, or
familiarly Rey Papy, or King Joe; and ap-
peared, in ridiculing his pretensions, to cast
no reflections on his character or qualifica
tions.

T

1

The Spaniards are not the only people who have been duped by words that mean nothing, and which are pronounced in direct opposition to the interests and acts of those who use them. Great Britain stepped forth as the ally and champion of Spain, and the inhabitants of that devoted country never once doubted the sincerity of her professions, nor the disinterested ness of her assistance, though so evidently made and given from selfish views. The Spaniard, proud and jealous of his national character, entered the field under British generals, and madly fought against his own best interests.

Of all the nations on earth, none would more dread, or do more to prevent, the renovation of Spain than Great Britain. The most powerful motives exist to operate upon the minds of the people of the latter, to thwart the real emancipation of the former. Not excepting the United States, no government in the world, if well organized, would be so formidable to Great Britain as that of Spain. A combination of the best results would have followed the quiet accession of Joseph Buonaparte to the Spanish throne, and his continuation at the head of the Spanish nation. All the benefits recounted by our author would have been enjoyel; and, farther, Spain and her onerous colonies would either have been separated, or, by the adoption of more liberal political regulations, the connexion would have become useful to both parties.

All this Great Britain saw, and was interested to prevent; and she succeeded in extinguishing the last hope of Spain, and causing that people to commit a moral suicide, in restoring Ferdinand VII, and the Inquisition. As soon as Spain was left in a state of exhaustion, deprived of hope from abroad, and secured under the bloody, gloomy, and superstitious despotism of her misled masters, Great Britain covertly favoured, and continues to accelerate, the independence of the Spanish colonies in America. For those colonics we have much to hope; but for Spain-remediless depression, intolerance, and slavery, seems to be her destined lot.

We

"The establishment of the Arab power in Asia, and its rapid progress in Europe teresting epochs in history; but to view and Africa, form decidedly the most inthese people in all their glory and refinement, they must be seen in Spain and under Punic war, which drove the Carthagenians the reign of the Caliphs. After the second from Spain, the Romans held it peaceably for six hundred years. Undisturbed by fo their helmets laid aside, and their spears reign powers, unused to the science of arms, corroded with rust, they degenerated from the valour and worth of their ancestors, whose hardy enterprize led them through and fell an easy prey to those barbarians, Europe and Africa. Alaric led the Goths the provinces of Gaul and Germany, rushed to Rome, while the Vandals, after scouring like a torrent through Spain, and desolated that fine country with fire and swordHistory is somewhat confused, in affording dates to the destruction of important cities and provinces in Spain. find it difficult to de ile, who destroyed Cartea; although it is known that Gondenic, in the four hundred and twenty-fifth year of the Christian æra, destroyed all the important towns in Andalusia, and put the inhabitants of Seville to the sword. Genpassed over to Spain with an army, and seric, who was in Mauritania Tingitania, landed near where Cartea stood; that is, on the banks of the Guadarante. I saw the had a battle with the Sueves and overcame spot from where I was seated; here he them; but being compelled to return to Africa, he had no time to improve his barian kings, made a dash at Andalusia, victory. In 438, Richilus, one of the Barbeat the Romans completely, laid every thing waste, and then held the ruined proto throw succours into Spain, and, for a vince. The Romans, however, found means length of time, that country was the scene of battles and skirmishes between them and the Goths, Vandals, Alans, Sueves, and Silings. In 614 Sigibert attempted to recover from the Imperialists, all that tract of country on the Mediterranean, reaching which he succeeded in obtaining, after a from the Fretum Herculanium to Valencia; contest of four years. The Romans severely felt the loss of their possessions in Spain; it was a loss of power, a decay of national strength; and they made another effort to turn the tide of affairs in that quarter. On the arrival of the Roman Goths, already in the field, with a powerforces, they found Suintila, king of the ful and well equipped army, against which the Romans did not dare march. Finding the power of the Goths increase, the Ro mans surrendered on good conditions, without hazarding a battle; and, for the first time, the Goths were entire masters of Spain.

"From the contiguity of the two continents, the power of the Goths in Spain, ex

348

Noah's Travels.

tended also to Mauritania, over which they
long exercised an unlimited jurisdiction.
This country was regarded by the Arabs
with great interest. The Moors who had
resided there from the most early periods, bad
led a wandering, but peaceable life; their
spirit was broken by the variety of masters
which the chance of war placed over them.
The Greeks, Romans, Carthagenians, and
Vandals, had each by turns exercised unli-
mited jurisdiction. In the reign of the Ca-
liph Othman, in 647, the Arabs made a de-
scent in Africa, and conquered Mauritania.
The junction formed between the Moors
and Arabs, their common origin, similarity
of habits, manners, and religion, tended to
awaken in the minds of the Moors a desire
for independence, and of ridding their
country of those barbarous Goths, who
were daily committing the greatest excesses.
This disposition produced an activity in
these allies which led to very important re-
sults; and in 708, Moussa, a celebrated and
most successful general, arrived from
Egypt with 100,000 men, and added to the
Arab and Moorish forces already in that
country he passed through Mauritania,
drove the Goths from Tangier, and found
himself a conqueror, with immense resour-
ces at his disposal. Then, for the first time,
was an eye of jealousy and desire cast on
the fine and fruitful provinces of Spain.
The Moors, from their mountains, saw the
Spanish vallies, their numerous cities and
rich commerce, and in a moment of enthu-
siasm, they formed the vast design of con-
quering that country. They carried their
design with promptness into effect, and in
three years, all Spain was in their posses-
sion. Thus commenced the reign of the
Caliphs; but the causes which led to this
revolution, were equally strange and inter-
esting.

:

"Roderic, known as the last king of the Goths, excluded from the throne the sons of Witiza, whose claim the people recognised, but the nobles opposed. His court was the most depraved and sensual of any at that period in Europe, and every species of corruption, fraud, debauchery, and excess were encouraged by him to that degree, that honour, worth and social order were unknown; the kingdom was shaken to the centre with commotions, and fast verging to that condition as to render it an easy prey to the conquering arms of neighbouring powers. Roderic did not want talents; he was shrewd, penetrating, brave, engaging, generous, and liberal; but these were mere flashes of virtue which his great vices obscured; and at length, he capped the climax of infamy, by offering violence to the daughter of Count Julian, who was at that period an ambassador in Barbary. Historians differ as to the cause of the Moorish invasion; they all unite, however, in attributing it mainly to the conduct of the king, in relation to the daughter of Count Julian; and many ingenious fables, and interesting

dramas, owe their origin to this singular event. This young lady was named Cava, and was maid of honour to the Queen Egileno; she was esteemed the most beautiful The and accomplished woman in Spain, a model of virtue, and engaging manners. king pursuing his wretched system of vice and debauchery, first removed the father, the Conde Julian, by sending him on an embassy to Moussa, at Tangier, and then offered violence to the daughter. Deprived of her natural protector, the beautiful and injured Cava retired from court, to meditate on a revenge suitable to her wrongs. She contrived a variety of modes and allegorical devices to inform her father of the violence offered to her; and among them, she wrote to him, that there was a fair green apple upon the table, and the king's poignard fell upon it and cleaved it in two.' These ambiguous givings-out,' added to other circumstances, created a suspicion in the mind of the wretched father, who obtained his recall, and returned to Spain. Acquainted with the extent of his misfortune, he smothered his resentment until better prepared to act, and representing to the king, that his expensive armaments in peace were onerous to the people, he in-· duced him to lay up his galleys and disband his troops. He then obtained permission for himself and family to visit Taragona, and left Malaga for that purpose. Arrived at Taragona, he collected his friends and relations, and with many followers sailed for Africa. Roderic never suspected the anger or deep resentment which was buried in the bosom of Count Julian; so carefully and successfully did he smother his feelings, and dissemble his passions. Julian arrived in Africa, and addressed himself immediately to the general, Moussa; he represented Spain as prepared to throw off the yoke, and receive the Moors. He stated that his party was powerful and ready to join him, he heaped every vile epithet on the head of Roderic, and satisfied Moussa that is wrongs had been deep and powerful. He represented the riches of Spain in dazzling colours, its fertile provinces, its splendid cities, and awakened that spirit of cupidity, which strengthened the ambitious designs of the Moors, and preparation was made to invade Spain. It was in 713 that Moussa placed twelve thousand Moors under the command of Tariff, or Taric Abenzarca, one of the greatest captains of the age, who landed and captured Gibraltar, and erected the castle, the ruins of which I had lately visited. After leaving a small garrison, he passed round the Bay, and took Cartea, and laid the foundation of Algeciras; as previous to that period, no town or city was erected on the spot where Algeciras now stands. Roderic, alarmed at this visit from the Moors, and ill prepared to resist them, still roused himself from his lethargy and gathered the remnant of his forces, and had several skirmishes with Tariff; at

length the Moors, fighting desperately against superior numbers, who were awed and dispirited, drove them to Xerez; and on the banks of the Guadalette, the fabled Lethe, Roderic made a last and desperate stand, and after sundry battles for near eight days, he was finally conquered. The king, by some, was supposed to have fallen in this contest; but it has been satisfactorily shown that he escaped to Portugal, where he died in obscurity. Tariff marched with his triumphant forces, and possessed himself of Seville, and finally of all Andalusia and Estramadura.

"The success which attended this expedition, induced Moussa, a warrior no less distinguished, to form a junction with Tariff with auxiliary troops; and these two generals, with their army, separated, and shortly after overrun and captured all Spain. To the Christians, the Moors held out the hand of fellowship and protection; they guaranteed to them the free observance of their religion, and the possession of their chapels; nay, so mild and beneficial was their rule, that the queen of Roderic openly espoused the son of Moussa, thus uniting the Christian and Moslem interest.

"Spain, divided in command between Moussa and Tariff, begat a strong jealousy on the part of the former, as he had ever viewed Tariff in the light of a subordinate officer. The Caliph Valid, fearing the effect of this jealousy, recalled them both to Africa, where they died neglected.

"The son of Moussa, who had espoused Egilona, the wife of king Roderic, and who was left in command of Spain, dying Shortly after, Alabor, a warlike chief, succeeded him, who scoured the country, and even crossed the Pyrenees into Frauce. "A rebellion broke out in the north, which was headed by Pelagus, a descendant of the Gothic princes, and who was so successful in his predatory warfare, as to induce the Caliph Omar II. to send Elzemagh, a very distinguished officer, to take command in Spain The Caliph, with a discernment worthy an enlightened prince, soon discovered, that Spar would never be tranquil, without efforts were made to soften the habits, and ameliorate the condition of the people; and this he determined to effect by the introduction of arts and sciences, and which laid the foundation of the glory which was so conspicuous during the government of the Moors in Spain. Cordova was erected into a capital, and embellished with splendid palaces. Men of talents were invited to court, and Elzemagh himself, setting the example, wrote a topographical history of Spain, with a detailed account of its resources, mines, minerals, forests, and rivers. The brave Pelagus, and his partizan followers, still held the Asturias, and could not be dislodged; in fact, the Moors, disregarding his rebellion, seemed desirous of conquering Gaul, and Elzemagh was killed in one of the battles near Narbonne.

"Spain still changed her rulers, until the year 731, when Abderame, a Moorish chief of the highest acquirements, ambition, and bravery, took command in Spain. He formed an alliance with the French Duke of Aquitaine, who had quarrelled with his sovereign, Charles Martel, and married his daughter; marched instantly against Muniza, governor of Catalonia, whose forces he destroyed, and whose wife, a lady of exqui site beauty, he sent to the Caliph Backman. Urged by his ambitious views, Abderame was disposed to show how firm his power was fixed in Spain; he crossed the Pyrenees; captured Bourdeaux; scoured the French provinces, and came suddenly in sight of Charles Martel, who, with all the forces of France and Germany united, had pitched his camp at Tours. All Europe was interested in the result, and the Christian forces were to make one great, and probably last effort, for dominion. The battle was fought near Tours; 300,000 men were destroyed, and Abderame was killed, which secured the victory to the French. This was in 733, and the defeat of the Moors gave rise to a variety of factions in Spain, which, for many years, rendered their power uncertain and precarious. In Asia, the utmost confusion existed between the rival tribes of the Omiades, the Abbassides, and the Barmacedes; which gave rise to innumerable revolutions, which even Haroun al Rachid could not subdue, and which, eventually, destroyed all belonging to the tribe of the Omiades, except one, called Abderame. This adventurer, possessing ta lents of the highest order, concealed himself in the deserts of Arabia, and finally found means to get to Africa. The Moors in Spain, although governed by a chief favourable to the tribe of the Abbassides, were still attached to the Omiades; and, on hearing of the arrival of Abderame in Africa, they invited him to accept the crown. One strong link has consolidated the chain of Mahometan power, and given so much strength and vigour to their operations, that is, the eligibility of any Mussulman to the crown. The successful chief wielded the sceptre, and this stimulated every adventurer to deeds of heroism. Abderame accepted the invitation; and, in 755, he landed in Spain, on the banks of the Guadalette, where he assembled an army. For four years, the Abbassides, under the command of Yusef, disputed the possession of Spain; at length, the arms of Abderame were crowned with success. He conquered Cordova, and every important city; tranquilized the commotions between the tribes; was crowned king of Spain, and the first Caliph of the Moors; thus cutting asunder the ligament which bound the Arabs of Asia, and the Moors of Spain,

"That fine country, for the first time, had a monarch worthy of reigning; he was the most brave and accomplished man of his age; he patronized the fine arts; establish

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