as their friends, the Italians as their allies, the Germans as their relatives, the English and Scotch as their irreconcileable enemies. I was surrounded on my journey from Kilkinik [Kilkenny] to Cachel [Cashel] by a detachment of twenty Irish soldiers, and when they learned I was Frankard (it is thus they call us), they did not molest me in the least, but made me offers of service, seeing that I was neither Sazanach [Saron] nor English.

The Irish, whom the English call savages, have for their head-dress, a little blue bonnet, raised two fingers breadth in front, and behind covering their head and ears. Their doublet has a long body and four skirts; and their breeches are a pantaloon of white frize which they call trowsers. Their shoes which are pointed, they call brogues with a single sole. They often told me of a proverb in English, "Airische brogues for Englich dogues" [Irish brogues for English dogs]," the shoes of Ireland for the dogs of England," meaning that their shoes are worth more than the English.91

For cloaks they have five or six yards of frize drawn round the neck, the body, and over the head, and they never quit this mantle, either in sleeping, working, or eating. The generality of them have no shirts, and about as many lice as hairs on their

91 Quere; admirably adapted for kicking? Is not this intended to convey the idea that a kick is the fittest salutation with which to greet English dogs ?-M.

heads, which they kill before each other without any ceremony.92

The northern Irish have for their only dress a breeches, and a covering for the back, without bonnet, shoes or stockings. The women of the north have a double rug, girded round their middle and fastened to the throat. Those bordering on Scotland have not more clothing. The girls of Ireland, even those living in towns, have for their head-dress only a ribbon, and if married, they have a napkin on the head93 in the manner of the Egyptians. The body of their gowns comes only to their breasts, and when they are engaged in work, they gird their petticoat with their sash about the abdomen. They wear a hat and mantle very large, of a brown colour [couleur minime]94 of which the cape is of coarse

92"Some exercise, and some repose

On rushes some, and some on pallets;

Some vermin pick, and some pick sallets."

The Irish Hudibras, 1689. p. 101.-C.

93 The costume of the Italian women in the paintings of Raphael. They wear a handkerchief tied round their heads, but the colour generally not that of a napkin.-M.

94 The shade of brown, called in French Minime (a millinery term), is derived from the peculiar colour in the dress of the monks instituted by St. Francois de Paula in Italy, who visited the Court of France in the profligate reign of Henry III. and was received with extraordinary honours by that bigoted and effeminate prince. The saint was not sparing of his denunciations against the wickedness of the court, but such was the frivolity of the French dames, that they

woollen frize, in the fashion of the women of Lower Normandy.

were more particularly struck by the brown tint of his rude garment, and transferred its peculiar shade to their toilette under the name of " Couleur minime;" this founder of monks having chosen to call, through humility, his followers "Fratres minores or minimi."-M.

CHAP. VIII.

THE seventeenth of July I went to the roads of Wachefort [Wexford] to embark on board a pinnace,95 which I was refused. I went on my knees to the skipper or master, to induce him to receive me on promise of remuneration; after much altercation he told me, that " if he met with any Frenchmen he should take me to France, if with Biscayans to Spain." I answered him that which way I went was indifferent to me provided I could get out of Ireland. We sailed immediately, but the wind having changed against us, we were obliged to make the mole, and to anchor in the same spot from which we had taken our departure. From thence he sent me ashore again, saying that he would not risk for the passage of an individual, the loss of his cargo; that if he were taken by the French, and that I did not keep his secret, they would declare that his vessel was a lawful prize, having smuggled goods on board. I entreated of him not to leave me in this island, which I had no

95 A marginal note on the original states that "a pinnace of the ocean is the same as a brigantine of the Mediterranean, but differently formed."-T.

means of quitting, since the natives were in such fear of the Parliamentarians that they dared not put to sea. He remained inexorable, and I was astonished at the ungraciousness of this Irishman, as his countrymen are in general so attentive to strangers. He obliged me to remain in this island, where civil warfare was raging on all sides, and from which the escape appeared to me very difficult, because there was no vessel at Doublin, at Limmerik, and at Waterfort. Scotland was out of the question, for there was no security there.

On the same day I went to complain to my intimate friend, Mr. François Charlot, an inhabitant of Wachefort, who was astonished at the conduct of the skipper, and begged me to have patience until he had seen Mr. Telin [ Teeling] the owner of the cargo, who, upon Charlot telling him that I came from Avignon, a country by no means inimical to the Spaniards, promised him to allow me a passage, and gave him an order, which he carried to the roads, and made me re-embark.

The next morning we sailed to the south, and the fourth day we arrived at Souling [Scilly] Isle, called by us Sourlingue where three Salee vessels chased us, and obliged us to run for the coast near St. Yues [St. Ives] in the south of Cornual [Cornwall.] We met there a Parliamentary frigate of twenty-four guns, which was to windward of us, and came within cannon shot of our pinnace, in which we had but six men. We should have preferred falling into