The Abode of Snow: Observations on a Journey from Chinese Tibet to the ... - Andrew Wilson - Google Books

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THE GREAT KÚNG-MA PASS INTO CHINESE TIBET.

The Oopsung Gorge-Namgca fields-Camp on the pass-The great

mountain Lio Porgyúl-Extraordinary scene hy moonlight-Chota

Khan's wrath - Power of the sun - An awful scene Cross the

Chinese frontier-Summit of the pass—The rolling hills of Tar-

tary-Descent to Shipki,

Arrival at Shipki-An unexpected difficulty—Tartar young women-

Supplies and carriage refused — Remonstrance useless — Reasons

assigned for refusing to let us pass-Englishmen suspected-Chi-

nese wiliness-A disagreeable character, The Tzong-pon of D’zab-

rung – My further plans — The country beyond Shipki - Firing

into one's stomach—“Pull, pull,"

TIBET AND ITS SECLUSION.

Frightful tortures - Sealing on horseback - Reasons assigned for ex-

cluding Europeans—More probable reasons– The gold of Tibet-

Other minerals and gems-Geography of Tibet,

THE PEOPLE OF SHIPKI.

A Tartar beauty, Flirtation in Shipki— Dress and appearance-Posi-

tion and products of Shipki-Departure-Instance of Tartar fero-

city—“Still meat”- A pap for infants—Chinese aversion to milk

-Marches to Shipki,

OVER LÍO PORGYÚL.

The upper valley route-A jhúla or twig-bridge—Lord Elgin's death

--Chota Khan's terror-An intrepid dame-Farewell to the Sutlej

-Gyumúr—The hereditary executioner - Tashigong monastery-

Búdhism-Shoulder of the great mountain--Marches to Nako,

A mountain pool—Pleasures of camp-life--A strange feeling-Incle-

ment weather-Food— Tibetan appetites-Hlouses-A wonderful

dog-A reincarnation-Part from Bruder Pagell-Chango-Spiti

minstrels—Leave Kunáwar-Its characteristics—Its paths,

CHINESE TIBET AGAIN.

A habitationless district- A Tibetan mastiff-Chaddaldok and To-tzo

rivers— Necessary violence-Chúmúrti door into Tibet-Origin of

Tibetan exclusiveness—Turner's embassy, Bogle and Manning-

The Tibetan question,

TIBETAN POLYANDRY.

Polyandry explained - Polygyny-Extent-Six husbands-The Abhé

Desgodins— Tibetan and Scotch immorality-Tartar temperament

s-A holy man-Tibetan marriages--Origin of poly-

andry-Its advantages-Ingenious apologies,

Open caves-Lari and Po-Rope - bridges-Extraordinary ravines-

Dankar-Insolence-Seclusion of Spiti-Ugly women- n-Dress-

Products—Gay nuns-history,

A novel route—“Very possible”-Kazeh - Ki monastery — Naked

girls—Morang-Singular precipices- Architectural effects-Kiotro

- Losar — Tent-life- Further route- Preparations for a difficult

journey-Routes from Nako,

247
CHAPTER XXVII.

THE VALLEY OF GLACIERS.

The Kanzam Pass- The L Peaks-Enormous glaciers-Shigri or Glacier

Valley-Storm and snowA night scene-Crossing a glacier-

Incredible performances of a ghúnt – Spiti ponies — Fall of a

mountain — Glacier flowers-Fording streams-A fall--- Djeóla-

Tibetan dogs-Silver,

CHAPTER XXVIII.

THE ALPS AND HIMÁLAYA.

Living glacier flowers — Subterranean glaciers — Alps and Himálaya

contrasted— Savage grandeur of the Himálaya-Shattered peaks

- The Alpine and Himalayan people,

Extreme length of Himalaya—“The Stony Girdle of the Earth”.

" The Roof of the World”—Meaning of “the Abode of Snow”.

Latin, Greek, and Slav cognates-Abode of the Gods—German

Himmel- Milton's Imaus- Place in Hindú mythology, Personified

as Siva-Line of perpetual snow in Himálaya, Andes, and Alps-

Dryness of atmosphere-Effect of solar rays— Temperature of day

and night-Altitude and longevity,

THE MORAVIANS IN LAHAUL.

Characteristics of Lahaul — An ancient language - Magnificent ava-

lanches — The Moravian Mission - A howling wilderness

Lahaulese disorderliness—Routes from Kaelang to Kashmír-The

Zanskar route-Flowery maidans—“A little difficult”- Alarmed

servants—Sad fate of a policeman,

.

THE GREAT SCHINKAL PASS, OR SCHINGO LA.

The valley of stone avalanches-A Hindú devotee-The Dread Mother

- Ramjakpúk-Col of the Schinkal-Height of the pass-Highest

ascents—The region of perpetual snow—Trouble with coolies-

• The Wild Horseman of the Glacier-A snowstorm,

MIDNIGHT THOUGHTS.

The scene at midnight-Flaming stars-Immensity of the universe-

Snowy peaks and starlit spaces—Perfection of organic existence

- Misery of sentient life – The Hardwar tigress — The African

continent-Opinion of Eastern sages-Even Christian doctrine-

Wordsworth — Goethe's Das Göttliche-John Foster — Monads-

Practical conclusion,

The Kharjak valley— Tremendous series of glaciers--Gigantic pyramid

– Perplexing mountains — Wonderful colours Fatigue of the

journey - Kharjak village--Its Talúkdár- Thesur - Junction of

the Kharjak Chu and Tsarap Lingti --Pune monastery-Char-

Burdun monastery-Arrive at Padam,

Camping-ground-Padam-Seclusion of Zanskar--Its people-Area-

Elevation- Valleys-A curious theory,

Choten -- Mani — Inscribed and sculptured stones – Praying stones,

flags, wheels, and mills - Koeppen on the universal prayer

Meaning of Om mani padme haun-Its Sanscrit origin,

SNOWED UP IN ZANSKAR.

A great snowstorm-Phe- Take refuge in a Tibetan house--Descrip-

tion of the house — An open roof – A winter in Phe – Two

delightful children- The grandmother-Features of the men-

Hebrew-looking Baltis,

CHAPTER XXXVII.

THE SNOWY PENSE LA.

After the storm-A lovely scene-Night in the waste-Bears—Glacier

and deep snow-Col of the pass—Dangerous riding-Effect of

the sun-Dazzling whiteness-Ser and Mer peaks-Hiouen Tsang's

description-Descent–The Chiling Pass-Description of the Ring-

dom monastery-Marches,

CHAPTER XXXVIII.

Difficulty of descending on Kashmir-Kartse-Sankú-Omba-A big

hill-Fugitive coolies-Snow blindness—Height of the pass—A

dilemma A double pass—Darkness---Another pony — An awful

THE ZOJI PASS AND SIND VALLEY.

Dras--The source of snow-Mataan—The Wuzeer's Wuzeer administer-

ing the stick — The Yarkand envoy's retinue - The Zoji La-

Curious road–Baltal-Beauty of the Panjtarne valley-Demon

lovers—The Sind valley-Splendid trees-Reach Srinagar,

THE VALLEY OF ROSES.

Kashmir and surrounding countries–Climate-General characteristics

- Union of summer and winter — Encircling snows Waters-

Vegetation – Srinagar - Apple-tree canal-Dal or city lake -

Floating islands—The lotus --Shalimar Bagh- Nishat Bagh-The

Emperor Jehángir and the Light of the World,

KASHMIR PEOPLE AND AFFAIRS.

Regrets in Kashmír-Unfortunate state of the people— Their bad

reputation-Ill-treatment of them — Kashmiri beauties — Suspi.

cious deaths-Lieutenant Thorpe-Dr Elmslie-Mr Hayward -

Books on Kashmír, .

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