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CHAPTER XVII.
THE GREAT KUNG-MA PASS INTO CHINESE TIBET.
The Oopsung Gorge-Namgea fields-Camp on the pass-The great
mountain Lío Porgyúl-Extraordinary scene by moonlight—Chota
Khan's wrath - Power of the sun - An awful scene- -Cross the
Chinese frontier-Summit of the pass-The rolling hills of Tar-
tary-Descent to Shipki,
-
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Arrival at Shipki-An unexpected difficulty-Tartar young women—
Supplies and carriage refused- - Remonstrance useless-Reasons
assigned for refusing to let us pass-Englishmen suspected-Chi-
nese wiliness-A disagreeable character-The Tzong-pon of D'zab-
rung - My further plans - The country beyond Shipki —— Firing
into one's stomach-" Pull, pull,"
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CHAPTER XIX.
TIBET AND ITS SECLUSION.
Frightful tortures - Sealing on horseback Reasons assigned for ex-
cluding Europeans-More probable reasons-The gold of Tibet—
Other minerals and gems-Geography of Tibet,
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CHAPTER XX.
THE PEOPLE OF SHIPKI.
A Tartar beauty-Flirtation in Shipki-Dress and appearance-Posi-
tion and products of Shipki-Departure-Instance of Tartar fero-
city-"Still meat"-A pap for infants-Chinese aversion to milk
-Marches to Shipki,
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CHAPTER XXI.
OVER LÍO PORGYÚL.
The upper valley route-A jhúla or twig-bridge-Lord Elgin's death
--Chota Khan's terror-An intrepid dame-Farewell to the Sutlej
-Gyumúr-The hereditary executioner-Tashigong monastery—
Búdhism-Shoulder of the great mountain-Marches to Nako,
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CHAPTER XXII.
NAKO AND THE NAKOWALLAH.
A mountain pool-Pleasures of camp-life-A strange feeling-Incle-
ment weather-Food-Tibetan appetites-Houses-A wonderful
dog-A reincarnation-Part from Bruder Pagell-Chango-Spiti
minstrels-Leave Kunáwar-Its characteristics-Its paths,
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CHAPTER XXIII.
CHINESE TIBET AGAIN.
A habitationless district-A Tibetan mastiff-Chaddaldok and To-tzo
rivers-Necessary violence-Chúmúrti door into Tibet-Origin of
Tibetan exclusiveness-Turner's embassy-Bogle and Manning-
The Tibetan question,
CHAPTER XXIV.
TIBETAN POLYANDRY.
Polyandry explained-Polygyny-Extent-Six husbands-The Abbé
Desgodins-Tibetan and Scotch immorality-Tartar temperament
-Lama nuns-A holy man-Tibetan marriages-Origin of poly-
andry-Its advantages-Ingenious apologies,
CHAPTER XXV.
SPITI.
Open caves-Lari and Po-Rope - bridges-Extraordinary ravines-
Dankar-Insolence-Seclusion of Spiti-Ugly women-Dress—
Products-Gay nuns-history,
CHAPTER XXVI.
UPPER SPITI.
A novel route-"Very possible"-Kazeh - Kí monastery - Naked
girls-Morang-Singular precipices-Architectural effects-Kiotro
-Losar -Tent-life- Further route- Preparations for a difficult
journey-Routes from Nako,
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CHAPTER XXVII.
THE VALLEY OF GLACIERS.
The Kanzam Pass-The L Peaks-Enormous glaciers-Shigri or Glacier
Valley-Storm and snow-A night scene-Crossing a glacier-
Incredible performances of a ghúnt - Spiti ponies - Fall of a
mountain-Glacier flowers-Fording streams-A fall-Djeóla-
Tibetan dogs-Silver,
CHAPTER XXVIII.
THE ALPS AND HIMÁLAYA.
Living glacier flowers - Subterranean glaciers - Alps and Himálaya
contrasted-Savage grandeur of the Himalaya-Shattered peaks
-The Alpine and Himalayan people,
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE HIMALAYA.
Extreme length of Himálaya-"The Stony Girdle of the Earth
"The Roof of the World"-Meaning of "the Abode of Snow”.
Latin, Greek, and Slav cognates-Abode of the Gods-German
Himmel-Milton's Imaus-Place in Hindú mythology-Personified
as Siva-Line of perpetual snow in Himálaya, Andes, and Alps—
Dryness of atmosphere-Effect of solar rays-Temperature of day
and night-Altitude and longevity,
CHAPTER XXX.
THE MORAVIANS IN LAHAUL.
Characteristics of Lahaul-An ancient language-Magnificent ava-
lanches The Moravian Mission
- A howling wilderness
Lahaulese disorderliness-Routes from Kaelang to Kashmir-The
Zanskar route-Flowery maidans-"A little difficult"-Alarmed
servants-Sad fate of a policeman,
CHAPTER XXXI.
THE GREAT SCHINKAL PASS, OR SCHINGO LA.
The valley of stone avalanches-A Hindú devotee-The Dread Mother
-Ramjakpúk-Col of the Schinkal-Height of the pass-Highest
ascents-The region of perpetual snow-Trouble with coolies-
The Wild Horseman of the Glacier-A snowstorm,
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286
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CHAPTER XXXII.
MIDNIGHT THOUGHTS.
The scene at midnight-Flaming stars-Immensity of the universe-
Snowy peaks and starlit spaces-Perfection of organic existence
-Misery of sentient life-The Hardwar tigress-The African
continent Opinion of Eastern sages-Even Christian doctrine-
Wordsworth - Goethe's Das Göttliche-John Foster-Monads-
Practical conclusion,
CHAPTER XXXIII.
1 THE TSARAP LINGTI VALLEYS.
The Kharjak valley-Tremendous series of glaciers-Gigantic pyramid
Perplexing mountains Wonderful colours - Fatigue of the
journey-Kharjak village-Its Talúkdár-Thesur-Junction of
the Kharjak Chu and Tsarap Lingti-Pune monastery-Char-
Burdun monastery-Arrive at Padam,
CHAPTER XXXIV.
ZANSKAR.
Camping-ground-Padam-Seclusion of Zanskar-Its people-Area-
Elevation-Valleys-A curious theory,
CHAPTER XXXV.
OM MANI PADME HAUN.
Choten - Mani - Inscribed and sculptured stones - Praying stones,
flags, wheels, and mills-Koeppen on the universal prayer –
Meaning of Om mani padme haun-Its Sanscrit origin,
CHAPTER XXXVI.
SNOWED UP IN ZANSKAR.
A great snowstorm-Phe-Take refuge in a Tibetan house--Descrip-
tion of the house- An open roof-A winter in Phe-Two
delightful children-The grandmother-Features of the men-
Hebrew-looking Baltis,
305
315
322
327
333
CHAPTER XXXVII.
THE SNOWY PENSE LA.
After the storm-A lovely scene-Night in the waste-Bears-Glacier
and deep snow-Col of the pass-Dangerous riding-Effect of
the sun-Dazzling whiteness-Ser and Mer peaks-Hiouen Tsang's
description-Descent-The Chiling Pass-Description of the Ring-
dom monastery-Marches,
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
THE OMBA PASS.
Difficulty of descending on Kashmir-Kartse-Sankú-Omba-A big
hill-Fugitive coolies-Snow blindness-Height of the pass-A
dilemma A double pass-Darkness-Another pony-An awful
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gorge,
CHAPTER XXXIX.
THE ZOJI PASS AND SIND VALLEY.
Dras--The source of snow-Matáan-The Wuzeer's Wuzeer administer-
ing the stick-The Yarkand envoy's retinue-The Zoji La-
Curious road-Baltal-Beauty of the Panjtarne valley-Demon
lovers-The Sind valley-Splendid trees-Reach Srinagar,
CHAPTER XL.
THE VALLEY OF ROSES.
- Waters-
Kashmir and surrounding countries-Climate-General characteristics
-Union of summer and winter - Encircling snows-
Vegetation - Srinagar - Apple-tree canal-Dal or city lake-
Floating islands-The lotus-Shalimar Bagh-Nishat Bagh-The
Emperor Jehangir and the Light of the World,
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361
371
CHAPTER XLI.
KASHMIR PEOPLE AND AFFAIRS.
Regrets in Kashmir-Unfortunate state of the people-Their bad
reputation-Ill-treatment of them- Kashmirí beauties - Suspi-
cious deaths-Lieutenant Thorpe-Dr Elmslie-Mr Hayward-
Books on Kashmir, .
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