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Robert, will not be disappointed. And now, good night; the damp is settling fast on the grass, and you had better go in, Robert, and roast one of your best potatoes." This I said with a smile; and could hear him just mumble out, "No, sir, no, that would be terrible waste. I must keep my good potatoes till winter."

I was but an occasional resident in the parish of S- and had seldom been in the place at the period of the "ploughing match," as it was called, though the exhibition partook of the nature of an agricultural and horticultural show. I determined, however, to witness, for once at least, the results of these praiseworthy attempts, on the part of the gentry and superior farmers, to improve the character and condition of the pea santry.

The next was one of those bright days which have marked the present autumn. The rich light of the sun, falling on a mellowed landscape, and the soft but healthy warmth of the atmosphere, combined with the festivities of the scene to spread a happy glow over every face. Even the ploughmen, whose prizes were yet to be won, mingled the laugh and merry retort with the anxiety which their rustic rivalry naturally produced. I was surprised to see the numbers that arrived from every part of the surrounding country. Some, with that rustic tunic, the well-known "smock frock," as white as mother or wife could make it, looking not unpicturesque in the glancing sunlight. Something like a peasant's pride was discernible about many of these said "frocks;" the fronts and backs were elaborately worked, and worn with an air that proclaimed the possessor a member of the peasant aristocracy. Amid the simplicity and primitive habits of the rural districts, this dress seems more appropriate to a "bold peasantry, their country's pride," than the more modish garments adopted by many of the rustics in the vicinity of large towns. Some, of a class superior to these last, came in blue coats of ancient cut, the shapes of which would have puzzled all the Stultzes in Europe, but were perfectly familiar to the tailors of the villages round S- Staid old men were these farmers, who paid taxes and grumbled, doing the latter more readily than the former. Most had come to see, not to act; few were perfect approvers of the changes around them. They laughed with grave scorn at the "experimenters" and "chemist farmers;" but were, nevertheless, quite ready to mark the improvements in agricultural implements, and the modes of rearing stock.

The "superior farmers," too, were in the field; men justly proud of their influence at markets, and aspiring in many cases to an equality with the gentry themselves. Some are evidently able to count their thousands; and have no small opinion of their value to the commonwealth.

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the influence on human civilization is tenfold more beneficial in the latter than in the former far-famed contests. I remember the time when the villagers flocked by thousands to a field in this vicinity, to witness the brutalizing spectacle of a prize fight, from which they returned less fitted for civilized and Christian society.

But let us leave the ploughs at work, and enter the tents, in, which are deposited the pride of many a cottage garden. Here are the prize specimens of fruit and vegetables; and noble specimens they are. Doubtless man is created for higher purposes than eating; but, as he must eat, so there is nothing unworthy a rational being in giving due care to produce the best food, and the greatest possible quantity. Hence the remark of a testy book-worm to one who pressed him to attend this meeting, "that life was not given to measure the diameter of potatoes and the size of cabbage-heads,” betrayed a defective view of the compass and variety of human duties. In the tents were all those fruits and vegetables displayed in which prudent housewives rejoice. It was pleasant to notice the manners of those who had gained prizes, as the different observers paused to gaze upon the specimens. Some would look carelessly on their own rare productions, as if beneath their notice, but in the meantime listened with anxious expression to each remark on the size, appearance, and other qualities of their specimens. Some, on the other hand, who had been disappointed of prizes, were criticising the productions of their competitors, pointing out every defect which the sharpest ingenuity could detect. Very amusing, too, was it to hear the different criticisms of the "professionals" and the "amateurs."

There was one short, fat, old gentleman, who had devoted many years to the production of a particular kind of giant cabbage. These productions seemed to afford him as high a gratification as the dome of St. Paul's gave to Sir Christopher Wren. Another had lavished all his attention on onions, which he insisted were the most nourishing of all roots; and told more than a hundred times of the Spanish soldier who subsisted five months on onions only. Others patronized the potato with a zeal which would have delighted Raleigh.

But the orchard was not forgotten; labour and skill combined to produce apples, pears, plums, and a host of similar fruits, such as the eye rarely witnesses. It was a pleasant thought for the reflecting observer to contrast these productions of civilized man with the original wild fruits from which each specimen had descended; the groups of luxuriant apples with their rude ancestor the crab; the luscious plum with the wild berry its original. These riches are the triumphs of industry, peace, and knowledge. The great law, 'Work, and thou shalt have," was here amply illus trated.

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The farming gentry, or "gentlemen farmers," were also numerous. In external appearance they frequently Such meetings as these make men acquainted with differed little from the larger agriculturists; but the their powers, and must suggest those efforts of social difference in their social position could be seen at a improvement, upon which the destinies of nations, and, glance; there was a respectful bearing towards each indeed, of the world, depend. What human perseveother, very distinguishable from the hey-day free-and-rance has done for the fruits and vegetables of the easy manners of the majority of the mere farmers. garden, it may do in the more important matters of From these, who are farmers of their own lands, the life. Thus man, by degrees, will learn to regard with class of experimental agriculturists is mainly drawn. more earnest attention the laws of the system in which Their more extensive knowledge, and greater leisure, God has placed him. The bringing a single fruit enable them to test theories which the mere farmer to perfection requires that attention to the laws of laughs at. Thus they often elicit for agriculture those nature (that is, to the laws of God), and that well valuable facts which would otherwise remain buried arranged combination of skill and labour, of head and beneath the lumber of human prejudice and ignorance. hands, by which the advance of civilization is effected. Here and there a clergyman was visible in the field, But man must begin at the beginning, and learn to who sought by his presence to aid all classes in their act in the small, ere he can hope to triumph in the efforts for the general good. At length the ploughs great. Thus an agricultural or horticultural association were assembled, their sturdy drivers marshalled, and may gradually train the humbler class of minds to such the contest of the driving ploughshares begun. There habits of observation, patient industry, and order, as was not much in the sight to arouse poetical images; may fit them for a higher place in the social system. and many who would exult over a description of the Olympian or Isthmian games, might have discerned little to excite interest in these contests of peace. Yet

And now the time for the distribution of the prizes has arrived. The chair is filled by a learned and amiable divine, head master of a grammar-school in

the neighbourhood, whose knowledge and urbanity | English agriculturists. I will, therefore, conclude with endeared him to all. Near him were the gentry a toast given at the dinner-"Long may such meetand landholders, whose purses and time are, in this ings flourish, and knit together the employer and part of the county, devoted to promote the well- employed." being of the peasantry. A large body of farmers surrounded the chairman, and added by their presence to the value of every prize. Each successful competitor received the rewards of his skill with a higher joy in the presence of his employers, in whose estimation he felt himself thus elevated. But the most happy of all were the wives, children, and relatives of the prize gainers. How important each looked as the fortunate father, husband, or brother stood forth to receive the

honours of the day; how each tried not to look proud, yet how proud they all looked!

I noticed one little fellow with a smock frock, white as "mother" could make it, jump about in ecstasy amongst the other boys. His father had received the prize for the best carrots; and he, poor little fellow, was as happy as earth could make him. A very pleasing part of the affair was the distribution of rewards and honorary tokens to servants who had, by long and faithful service, deserved well of society. If the highest in the land are gratified by the publicly expressed approbation of their fellow-citizens, if to gain this they risk even life itself, so does such honour deeply affect the hearts of the lowly. These are the only laurels open to them. Happy for the nation is it when provision is made to nourish so just an ambition.

Many of those now rewarded were women, whose youthful days had been spent in secluded farm houses, faithfully rendering services which are as necessary to human well-being as the deeds of nobles and statesTo these poor people the honours of this day will ever appear like a sunny spot in the line of

men.

life.

The last in this group was a young woman who, for eighteen years, had sedulously tended an invalid mistress. In a lonely house, in the wildest part of the Chilterns, she had passed her youth for a pittance of a few pounds yearly; more her mistress, who was a small annuitant, could not afford. Once a year only, for three days at Christmas, did she leave the solitary mansion to visit her aged parents. Thus her life passed on in the exercise of the virtues which the busy men of earth so rarely appreciate. Much against her desire had she attended here to-day. The wishes of her superiors, and the desires of her parents, had, however, overcome her modest reluctance. The old people, in their simple pride, longed for all to know their daughter's merit. The day was, I am certain, the brightest in their history. Once or twice the old man was seen to draw his hand hur riedly across his eyes whilst listening to the chairman's short address to "Jane." The mother preserved a calmer manner; and smiling quietly on her daughter, uttered to a friend, that "Jane was the best girl who had ever lived." Whilst I am writing this short account "Jane" is again returning to her aged mistress, declining all the numerous offers of better service. For this she assigns but one reason: "Mistress took me into her house when I was a poor ignorant girl: I cannot leave her in her old age for the sake of a little money." Such cases of devotion are rare. When observed, men are wise to honour them.

It was not till the close of the "exhibition" that I noticed Old Robert. He was then heartily shaking hands with "Jane's" father and mother, displaying towards the old people the warmth of an ancient friend, though he had never seen them before. But, as Robert said, "it was a day to make an old man's heart jump for joy."

The remainder of the sayings and doings may be passed over; they were pleasant enough to the parties concerned, consisting of a dinner, abundance of speeches, and plenty of agricultural chit-chat. I went home early, resolved to attend the meeting next year, and become more acquainted with the habits and feelings of the

THE UNITED STATES EXPLORING EXPEDITION.1

During the Years from 1838 to 1842.

FIRST NOTICE.

face, falls to the lot of few. Some are confined within AN extended knowledge of the earth's diversified surthe boundaries of a rural district; others within crowded cities, to whom the far-stretching continents, the ocean phenomena, and the beauties of the isles of the sea, are never to be revealed. They may glance at an atlas, but apprehend little of those busy nations inhabiting the regions thereon displayed.

This ignorance is man's necessity, not his choice; few are privileged to navigate strange oceans, stand on mountain peaks, or penetrate the secrets of remote lands. But all love to hear of distant regions, and to follow, in narratives, a Columbus or a Cook in their adventurous track. Hence the pleasure afforded by a perusal of "Travels" and "Voyages." The peasant in his secluded cottage, and the merchant pent in cities, may thus behold the manners of the antipodes, and converse with the men of either pole. Great are the benefits arising from an enlarged knowledge of the earth. Juster views of mankind are thus acquired; the diversities of pagan mythology, its wild extravagances, intermingled with gleams of original truth, the varieties of the human race, all spreading from the primeval centre, with the zoological and botanical novelties of other lands, are thus brought before us.

lands, continents, or islands, filling up the blanks on our Sometimes the explorer brings home reports of new

best maps.

Thus we see the great family of man recovering itself from isolation, the different branches uniting and forming a thousand links of intercourse. All the maritime countries of the world have sought by "exploring expeditions" to extend their influence over the earth; ancient and modern empires have sent their heroic men to explore unknown seas, to dare the rigours of arctic frost, and risk the perils of rock-bound and savage lands. Tradition hints of such in the Phoenician and Carthaginian eras; whilst history relates the deeds of a host of European navigators, down to the discoveries of our own Ross and Parry. The United States of America have imitated the example of the mother country, and concluded, in 1842, an expedition despatched to examine the Pacific and Southern oceans.

The squadron consisted of six vessels; two sloops of war, the Vincennes, of 780 tons, the Peacock, of 650; a gun brig, the Porpoise, of 32 tons; two tenders, the Seagull, of 110 tons, and the Flying-fish, of 96 tons; and a store ship, the Relief.

The ships sailed on August 17th, 1838, and took the course towards Madeira, which was reached September the 16th. The first appearance of this island disappointed expectations; it exhibited nothing to the distant view but a bare and broken rock, of huge dimensions, which, though grand and imposing, is peculiarly dark and gloomy. But this land of the vine was found, on a nearer approach, to be adorned with a luxuriant tropical vegetation, its mountain terraces covered with a rich verdure, and the valleys bright with fertility; orange groves and vineyards crowd upon the sight, and the stranger journeys along roads hedged with geraniums, myrtles, fuchsias, and hydrangias of gigantic size; on in depth, and on the other vainly endeavours to trace the one side the eye glances into ravines two thousand feet grey mountain peaks buried in the clouds. The vine is

(1) Whittaker & Co. Ave Maria Lane

of course the chief production of the island. The following mode of expressing the juice is probably unknown to the epicure whilst eyeing his "bright Madeira." "We saw," says the narrrator, "six men stamping violently in a vat of six feet square by two feet deep, their legs bare up to the thighs. After the grapes had been sufficiently pressed, and the men's legs well scraped, the mass was pressed out." Each gallon of the juice requires about ten bushels of grapes. On the 25th of September, the squadron sailed southwards, passing by the Canaries to the Cape de Verd isles. It is to be regretted that want of time prevented a survey of the Largasso sea, in which exist vast quantities of a floating plant called fucus natans, or gulf-weed.

When off St. Jago, the sea presented a beautiful phosphoric appearance; the whole face of the waters appeared to be on fire, so intense was the brilliancy; this arose from myriads of phosphorescent animalcule, which filled the sea with their vivid coruscations, and demonstrated, by their countless hosts, that remote and silent ocean waters swarm with a rejoicing and multitudinous exis

tence.

After a prosperous navigation, the squadron entered the bay of Rio de Janeiro. The fact which here chiefly claimed the attention of the voyagers was the prevalence of slavery in Brazil.

The slave population exceeds that of the white in the proportion of five to one, and between 7,000 and 8,000 are yearly brought in by the slave ships. The slaves are the principal carriers of the country; their mode of journeying is thus described:-"They appear to work with cheerfulness, and go together in gangs, with a leader, who carries a rattle made of tin, and filled with stones. With this he keeps time, causing them all to move in a dog-trot; each one joins in the monotonous chorus, the notes seldom varying above a third from the key."-P. 13. A monthly ball is held, called the whitejacket ball, because the gentlemen make their appearance in jackets of that colour; the ladies, on such occasions, make simplicity their motto, and discard all jewels and similar adornments. "On reaching the ante-room we were met by the committee of gentlemen, or managers, and kindly treated without ceremony, making us at once feel at ease. We were shortly after ushered into one of the most splendid ball-rooms I ever saw; there were upwards of three hundred persons present, all dressed in the purest white, without any finery what

ever."

Whilst enjoying the hospitality of the Brazilians, attention was not diverted from those observations on the laws and customs of the people, which might enable other nations to understand the character and institutions of the country. The result of the examination is not favourable to Brazil. Education is very defective, and the females are but lately allowed to be taught in schools. The administration of the laws is perverted by bribery; and justice is obtained with great difficulty by an unpatronized plaintiff or defendant. Trial by jury is established, but the system is peculiar. The jurymen are chosen for a whole year, by justices of the peace; instead of twelve, forty are necessary to constitute a jury --rather a cumbrous number for investigating disputed matters of fact.

The singular machinery of the court of findings and losings, is well adapted to provoke a smile. "This court takes charge of all things lost and found, making it the duty of a person finding anything to deposit it with the judge. The loser, to prove property, must have three witnesses to swear that they saw him lose it, and three others, that they saw the finder pick it up; otherwise, it remains in deposit."-P. 16.

discoloured, by the rush of earthy matter brought down by that stream. It is clear that a vast delta must be in process of formation, from the deposit of mud and sand at the mouth of such a river; the geologist may amuse himself by speculating on the period when this formation shall raise its head above the surface of the ocean, and form a fertile home for man, or other living creatures.

The squadron reached Orange Harbour, in Terra del Fuego, on February the 17th, and immediately began to prepare for the antarctic cruise. The natives of some portions of this region appear to rank low, even amongst savages; the narrow forehead, and wide-spread sensual mouth, combine with their distorted bodies, to create a feeling of disgust in the civilized man. One talent, however, is possessed, in the highest degree, by those barbarians; "Their imitations of sounds are truly astonishing. One man ascended and descended the octave perfectly, following the sounds of the violin correctly. It was then found that he could sound the common chords, and follow through the semi-tone scale, with scarcely a deviation. All the natives have musical voices, and speak in the note G sharp, ending with the semi-tone A, when asking for presents, and were con tinually singing."

This union of soft voices and song with barbarism, is an interesting fact, and suggests the hope that these savages may possess more gentle qualities than their squalid appearance indicates. In February 1839, part of the squadron sailed on a cruise towards the south, and, passing round the southern point of America, coasted along to Valparaiso. Here they saw the mighty Andes, their summits resplendent in the rising sun, and presenting the appearance of a bright golden line along the sky, running north and south. The view is most brilliant just before sun-rise, when the flashing rays fall on a thousand snowy peaks; the setting sun also produces some startling effects. The Alpine outlines then change every moment with the variations of light; here a line of mountains, clothed in purple, crimson, and yellow tints, breaks upon the view; there a group of peaks stand out in dark relief, whilst a singular green-coloured sky adds to the marvel of the contrast. Some of the summits rise abruptly into the deep heavens, like the spires of vast mountain cathedrals; others swell into magnificent domes, like titanie capitals of this mountain kingdom, of which it has been said, that ages would not suffice to observe its beauties, and discover its wonders. Humboldt in vain endeavoured to reach the summit of Chimborazo, the mightiest of these domes; when compelled to desist, he was at an elevation of 19,280 feet. These mountains do not consist of one continued chain, though so represented on most maps, but are broken into a series of groups. Thus, if the whole formation be called "a chain," each group may be termed a link in that chain. This range rests upon volcanic fires, and dreadful earthquakes have, without a moment's warning, frequently reduced flourishing cities to ruins. One of these events is thus referred to by the explorers :-" The situation of Old Callao is still visible under the water; and though an interesting, it is a melancholy object, when one thinks of the havoc a few minutes effected. The very foundation seems to have been upturned and shaken to pieces, and the whole submerged by a mighty wave. The wonder is, that any one escaped to tell the tale."-P. 47.

Before leaving the coast, some of the gentlemen attached to the expedition made a journey to the Andes of Peru, and examined the great silver mines of Pasco. They are 13,000 feet above the sea level, and the metallic district consists of two veins, each seventy miles long. But the expedition had not been despatched to dwell The deserted mines are nearly 1,000 in number, proving in the homes, and note the habits and customs, of civi- the vast amount of labour which has been expended on lized men. Accordingly, repairs being completed, the these excavations. "English speculators frequently work fleet sailed towards the wild coast of Terra del Fuego, on the mines, but are often disappointed," says the narraJanuary the 6th, 1839. It was observed, at seventy-eight tor, "by the disorderly conduct of the workmen, brought, miles from the mouth of the river Plate, that the sea was at high charges, from England."

This is said to have caused a ruinous and unprofitable | outlay to many companies. It is to be feared that the employers paid little attention to the moral qualities of the men engaged, and received in consequence the appropriate reward of their criminal negligence. After this visit to the mines, preparations were made for a voyage amongst the isles of the Pacific; and the expedition left the American coast on the 13th of July. They were now about to explore the homes of halfcivilized, or barbarous men, to trace the progress and note the manners of that extended family, which has spread itself over the thousand isles of the Pacific.

The numberless tribes, their various dialects, and the mysteries connected with the formation of this coral Polynesia, render these portions of the earth a most interesting study to the moral and natural philosopher. The islands are distributed into various groups, the Paumotu, the Samoan, the Feejeean, and the Hawaiian. The fleet sailed toward the first-mentioned cluster, and reached the most eastern extremity, called Minerva Island, or Clermont de Tonnerre, on August the 13th. It is one of the low coral islands, and resembles from a distance a fleet at anchor, as nothing, save the tall trees, is visible until the coast is neared. It may be regarded as the summit of a gigantic column of coral upraised from the deep sea by animalcule-of which it has well been said,

"They bind the deep with a secret zone,
The ocean is sealed, and the surge a stone;
Fresh wreaths from the coral pavement spring,
Like the terraced pride of Assyria's king;
The turf looks green where the breakers roll'd;
O'er the whirlpool ripens the rind of gold;
The sea-snatch'd isle is the home of men,

And mountains exult where the wave hath been."

On one side the sounding-line descended to 600 fathoms without touching the bottom, and against this coral rampart the Pacific heaves its huge billows in vain; the island wall defying the rage of sea and tempest. The term Paumotu, signifies a cloud of islands; not an inappropriate name for many of the crowded clusters which dot the Pacific.

These coral isles have been represented as the homes of beauty and fertility, but this is not true of many; viewed from a distance, they seem covered with a bright verdure, and thus resemble numerous vases rising from the ocean, yet this apparent fertility is found, upon landing, to consist only of patches of long coarse grass grow ing amongst the coral rocks. Most of the trees are stunted, a thing to be expected when we consider how thin must be the covering of vegetable mould on many of these rocks. The inhabitants of this group may be termed barbarians, though some are just emerging from the savage state through the teaching of the missionary, and the visits of traders. The conduct of the latter appears to be at times injurious to the natives, and some gross outrages are perpetrated against the islanders, causing them to regard Europeans as their foes.

The population of fifteen islands in the group is 10,000, but some have not more than twenty or thirty inhabitants, whilst one, named Anaa, has 5,000, and another 2,000. Thence we may regard these people as consisting of a great number of clans, differing in language, customs, and even race; for their physical characteristics are exceedingly various. The group is at present nearly valueless for commercial purposes, the only product obtained being pearl-oyster-shells, which are bought for European use by traders of Tahiti; but the increase of population, and the gradual formation of civilized habits, may yet render these islands a market for European goods.

This group occupies that part of our maps over which the words "Society Isles" are marked, and of which cluster the Paumotu group form the eastern part. Tahiti is not reckoned in the Paumotu group, but forms with Eimeo an independent division. To Tahiti the expedition next proceeded; it is composed of two

peninsulas, and possesses twenty-four harbours, abounding in districts of great fertility. Sugar, cocoa-nut oil, and arrow-root, are abundantly produced. Iron abounds in the mountains to such an extent as to render compasses useless. The South Sea whalers make these ports their places of rendezvous.

It may astonish the reader to hear that, amidst ease and plenty, the population of Tahiti has decreased,―a fact which is partly ascribed to the pernicious effects of the spirits introduced to the natives by traders; and thus the plague, which has wasted the American Indians, is felt in these beautiful islands. The commander of the expedition condemns, in the strongest terms, the practice of retailing ardent spirits to the simple natives in defiance of the laws of Tahiti, and notices, with indignation, the gross immorality of many captains and crews. Those acquainted with the condition of the lower orders in Europe, may hear with scepticism, that few natives are to be met with who cannot both read and write. Whether, in the lapse of years, the Tahitian language will contain a literature fitted to the moral and intellectual wants of numerous surrounding islands, it is difficult to decide; but it will ever be interesting to remember, that the first Polynesian language reduced to writing was that of Tahiti. The manners of many of the natives exhibited so much propriety, as to excite the surprise of the gentlemen on board the American squadron; they found that a chief of great influence had been dismissed from office for intoxication; and failed not to remark, at a luncheon given on board the ship, that, before the food was touched, the oldest chief asked a blessing. These indications of a superior moral tone, are combined with those gentle tastes from which civilization draws her rich adornments of taste and elegance. The love of flowers is a passion with the Tahitians, though the missionaries endeavour to check this natural and graceful feeling. A taste for music prevails amongst the women, many of whom possess rich and musical voices. Some peculiarities, ludicrous to a European, belong to these people; for instance, it is usual for the highest chiefs to claim the privilege of washing the dirty linen of the various ship's crews which touch at the islands; a prerogative which the nobles of Europe would not very highly prize.

Something like a political constitution has been introduced into Tahiti, formed in 1823 and 1826, upon the model of that of England. By this the crown is made hereditary, and the legislative power lodged in an assembly elected every three years; it consists of two members from each of the seven districts into which the island is divided, and possesses the power of enacting and modifying laws; thus the once barbarous Otaheitans have gained, under English guidance, a privilege which elsewhere has caused the struggles of centuries.

The scenery of this island and Eimeo is grand; lofty mountains and deep valleys give all the charm of contrast to the landscape; from some of the loftiest ridges a magnificent view presents itself, ridge upon ridge arise in gorgeous confusion, till the prospect melts away amid a region of wild mountain forms. These gigantic eleva tions are of volcanic origin, and carry the mind back to a period when fiery craters, and boiling lava floods, heaved beneath ceaseless earthquakes.

The rocky masses in the interior of the island consist of perpendicular basaltic columns, while those on the coast are composed of horizontal volcanic formations. In one respect Tahiti resembles Auvergne, viz. in the extinction of all the ancient volcanoes; thus its lofty mountains are but the memorials of convulsions in ages past.

It is now time to leave the "Expedition" on its track from Tahiti, with the intention of soon following the navigators through other branches of the far spread Polynesian group.

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