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appeared one half so beautiful. I was greatly | brilliant than was ever swayed before by excited, and was half tempted, in a state of human hands,” with grave judges, peers delirium, to throw myself over the railing and nobles kneeling before her in token of After the service, the schools went out in dif- obedience, becomes lifted at once into the ferent processions and directions, it requiring a personification of political grandeur and long time to clear the chapel ; and I went up to the cupola of the church, from which we could see them winding off in different direc- One smiles at the freshness with which tions, and threading the different streets like so our open-hearted countryman marvels at many beautiful ribands."
the manners of English high life. Again
and again he returns to the theme, and Mr. Colman attends the sessions at Old never tires of expressing his admiration. Bailey, and takes his seat on the bench Prepared to meet with English coldness of justice, where he sees hundreds of and hauteur, he is most agreeably surprisoners arraigned, tried, and sentenced, prised by a politeness accessible and com" with as much sang froid,” on the part municative, and is particularly impressed of the judge, “as a butcher in Cincinnati by the universal attention to good manwould get into his pen of swine and knock ners; he remarks that good manners are down his victims by the dozen.” This not put on by ladies for the occasion, but judge, whose sole dignity must surely grow up with them as matters of course, have lain in either his title or his wig, is and adds that even in the freest converrepresented as following up his heart- sation in parties of gentlemen he has rending sentences upon some wretched never heard an obscene story or indecent boy, or poor, miserable, affrighted woman, allusion ; nor a double entendre. with jokes and laughter. There could He is fond of enumerating petty, yet not scarcely be a stronger comment upon the uninteresting details, and naively informs extreme moral and physical degradation us that introductions to the company are of the lower classes in London, than the not usual, unless the party is small; but fact of its being reported as a common that it is not improper to enter into concase that parents entrap their children to versation with your neighbors. He comcrime, in order to throw them upon the ments admiringly upon dinner services of state, and thus rid themselves of the cost silver and gold, and cups and saucers of and care of their bringing up.
Sevrès china, every one differing in pattern Among the various objects of interest from another ;“ that is” he explains, “one which have attracted his attention, our cup and saucer was different from another author does not omit the Queen, whom he cup and saucer.” He remarks that a describes as “a very small person, not gentleman is expected to sit next the lady very handsome, but pleasing, with a bright- he hands in to dinner; and that, at the blue eye, and dressed quite modestly," tables of the nobility, cigars and pipes are and of whom one might say, meeting her not presented ; that invitations to parties without recognition, " there is a pretty, specify in general half-past eight to nine, genteel, little woman." With her Majes- but that half-past nine to ten is the hour ty, at the prorogation of Parliament, he to go; and that the dresses of the ladies seems, however, much more deeply im- are often almost wholly of silk. Dr. Primpressed. He is not willing to speak of rose himself could not have related these this great assemblage of the princes, peers, facts with a graver simplicity. and
peeresses, and great officers of state, in Many a man, nevertheless, far more the light and trivial tone which is assumed habitually observant of the forms of eti
This same pretty, genteel- quette, better conversant with luxury and looking little woman, rises into the most elegance, and withal less incautious of dignified importance, when he considers betraying his inexperience, might be surher as holding the sovereignty of one prised into expressions of admiration at hundred and fifty millions of human the almost eastern magnificence and sumpbeings, and her power extending into all tuous style in the palaces to which Mr. parts of the civilized globe. This little Colman had the fortunate admittance. lady, embodying in her own person “a
His first visit at the house of a noble. dominion perhaps more extensive and man is at Althorpe, where he goes by
invitation of Lord Spencer, chiefly for the “miles and miles," and especially of an purpose of attending a cattle-show in its enclosed aviary of six acres, containing neighborhood. This noble place, consist for the feathered gentry conveniences so ing of ten thousand acres, “all lying to appropriate and elegant, and making with gether in woods, meadows, pasture, gar- its grottoes, groves, parrots, canaries, gold dens and parks,” is described at length. and silver fish, peacocks, and gold and silThe size of the mansion may be inferred ver pheasants, so delightful and romantic from its furnishing sleeping-rooms for a scene, that he imagines himself, as well seventy guests, a gallery of pictures one he might, to be in fairy-land, and is half hundred feet in length, and a library inclined, he says, should there be a vacancovering the sides of eight large rooms cy, “to apply for the office of keeper.” and halls, and comprising more than fifty The dinner at Goodwood was given in thousand volumes. This is the well-known the tennis court; and here Mr. Colman great “Spencer library,” made immortal | takes occasion to repeat a toast given by by its catalogue through the laborious
a gentleman present, in reference to a compilations of the indefatigable biblio-party of ladies who had assembled to hear grapher, Dibden, who passed nine years the speeches, behind a wooden grating turning over its volumes, imbedded in its which separated one end of the apartclassical tomes; extracting line by line ment. The toast was, “ The hens in the from their contents, and, according to his Coop,' “and was received with no little own testimony,“ counting lines, leaves, and cheering." signatures with scrupulous exactness- Next comes Chatsworth, the far-famed comparing whole phalanxes of bibliogra- palace of the Duke of Devonshire, exceedphical writers--detecting errors, con- ing all others for its splendor within and tirming fidelity, expanding what was its beauty without. This well-known showmeagre, and compressing what was un- place, it has been stated in a petition to necessarily diffuse." If our author had Parliament, is visited in the course of a the slightest taste for bibliophilism, such year, by not less than 80,000 persons. a private library as this, equal in size to The Duke is represented as living in a our largest public collections, might well style of splendor quite in accordance with have astonished and delighted him. The his princely income of two hundred thouvery stables at Althorpe are described as sand pounds sterling per annum. Fourbeing elegant and neat even as a private teen hundred deer and four hundred head dwelling, and the greenhouse, conserva- of cattle stock the open park around the tories, dairy-house, and farm-houses--the house. The kitchen garden, with its hundreds of sheep and cattle grazing round perfect and abundant produce, covers the house and park, were objects, of all twelve acres; the conservatory, covered others, to arouse the interest of our tra- by seventy-six thousand square feet of veller.
glass, contains a passage large enough While at Lord Spencer's he was in- for a carriage to drive through ; there is vited to Goodwood by the Duke of Rich- an aquarium, an arboretum of many mond, to see his farms and farmers, and acres, thousands of rare and beautiful attend a sheep-shearing. The “home plants and fountains, one of which, “confarm,” as he calls it, of the Duke, is said sidered the highest jet d'eau in the world,” to consist of 23,000 acres, and the whole throws water 276 feet. An agriculturist estate to comprise 40,000. This wealthy and man of taste like Mr. Colman might nobleman is the owner of various other well have revelled in the enjoyment of farms; and of Gordon Castle, an estate such scenes. of 300,000 acres in Scotland. At Good- After describing the interior of this wood our author fairly gives up all attempt splendid establishment, we have thrown at description, and declares it impossible in a little sketch of Haddon Hall in ruins, to give an adequate idea of the magnifi- presenting a strong contrast, moral as well cence and beauty he has witnessed--of as artistical. the pictures, statues, and rooms hung with tapestry of the most exquisite workman- “I went after this to see Haddon Hall, an ship; of the parks through which he rides ancient castle, once the seat of elegance and luxury, of revelry and banqueting, now in ru- good looks and good manners; and quite ins, its halls empty, its tapestry defaced and as tenacious and observant of their rank hanging in shreds, its turrets overhung with
as their superiors. “ At Welbeck,” he ivy, its paved courts overgrown with weeds, and all its magnificence and glory departed, a
says, “there were six of us at dinner most striking contrast to the other scene.
So daily, and eleven servants, most of them human pride rises and sets, and the fashion in livery; the Welbeck livery consists of of the world passes away.”
light-yellow shorts and waistcoat, with
white stockings and pumps, a long blue At each new exhibition our author's coat trimmed with silver lace and buttons, wonder seems to increase, still finding and silver epaulets and white cravats. If something more remarkable than all that you meet the female servants of the upper had preceded. “I have seen nothing in class, you must take care not to mistake England on such a scale of magnificence,” them for the ladies of the house, as there is his exclamation on visiting Blenheim, is little to distinguish them in point of the celebrated show-place, built by the elegance of dress.” The latter part of nation as a present to the great Duke of this remark is, perhaps, as applicable here Marlborough. Beneath this noble pile, as in England, but our own countrywoconceived by the genius of Vanbrugh, lie men are not so individualized with their the remains of the great warrior, in whose outward attire, as to render caution neceshonor it was erected. It stands a monu- sary in regard to separating, even at a ment of a nation's gratitude, and it is for- glance, the lady from the servant. gotten how many attempts were made, by Sir Charles Morgan's house at Tredegar delay of payments from the treasury, to is an enormous pile, more than two hunthrow the cost of completing it upon the dred feet square, standing in a park of hero's own hands.
thirteen hundred acres. Sir Charles is Welbeck Abbey, the seat of the Duke designated as the largest farmer in Wales; of Portland, is minutely described. He he has five hundred tenants on his differsupposed that he had seen several times ent farms, and displays, to the edification before the summit of luxurious and elegant of his guest, his slaughter-house, dryliving, but this again went beyond all the meat house, beer and wine cellars, and his rest. He is astonished at the method and herds of deer, &c. • One hundred and quiet order prevailing in so large an es- eleven servants were dined daily in the tablishment, and understands not how it servant's hall, with large additions when is that where there are so many parts, there were visitors; a lady seldom going wheel within wheel, and one spring de- without her maid, or a gentleman without pending for its tension and its movements his valet, coachman and postillion. When upon another, there should not be the an invited guest, who was coming to Treslightest jarring or creaking. “Al degar with his family, sent word he must though, he says, "there were not less bring eight horses, Sir Charles wrote him than one hundred house servants, yet to bring as many as he pleased. Such from any noise, either by night or day, it things show at once the opulence and the would not be supposed there was one hospitality of the host. within a mile.” At another house he Our author's sense of the ridiculous is speaks of ringing in his own room for a gratified by an exhibition of the battue. servant, who always appears as instanta- This sport, in which the game being beat neously as if he had been concealed in the from covert by the servants, their masters wainscoat. Such readiness might have have only to await their appearance to reminded him of the story of the Yankee shoot them down, he thinks admits but of "help" who, after being rung for repeat- one improvement, which would be to have edly, called up from the bottom of the an arm-chair placed in the poultry-yard, stairs, “ The more you ring the more I and the hens and chickens tied by the sha'nt come.
legs, and shot at leisure. Mr. Colman remarks that English ser- Woburn Abbey, “the place of all othvants generally are proverbially clean, ers best worth visiting,” contains 20,000 and, in their dress, gentlemen and ladies ; acres in one body, and is the seat of the distinguished, the women especially, for | Duke of Bedford, next to the Duke of
Portland the largest improver in Eng- sans ceremonie, and every one ordered what he land.
wanted. This extensive agriculturist is said to
" At one elegant mansion, in which I stayed pay more than 400 laborers Weekly, nished with his own silver urn, with boiling
several days, each guest, at breakfast, was furihrough the year, and in his home park, water, and a spirit lamp under it, with his own which, to be sure, is thirteen miles in cir- silver coffee-pot, if he preferred coffee; or, if cumference, he has laid pipe drains for tea, with a separate tea-caddy, with two kinds several years past, to the extent of fifty of tea, a separate tea-pot, cream-pot, and sugarmiles each year, and upon his other es- bowl, all of silver; his cup, saucer, and plate, tates he makes about two hundred miles of course--making a complete and most eleof drains every year--drains dug three gant establishment for this purpose. At break
fast the arrangements were made for the day. feet deep, and laid with pipe tiles. In
The first day the rain was considerable, and this house they make up one hundred the Duchess undertook to show us the house. beds constantly for the regular family. It is full of everything magnificent in the way
of pictures, and works of art, and furniture, “ The house is very large, consisting of four and the apartments occupied by the Queen sides, three stories high on three sides, and and Prince, on their visit here, were extremely two stories on the other, each of the sides splendid. The library contained twenty-one more than two hundred feet long, enclosing a
thousand volumes. The gallery for statuary, court-yard of great extent, and having three which is a separate building, was full of works long galleries, the length of the whole sides, of art of the chief masters, which almost comfull of pictures and works of art. At the din- pelled my adoration. The original group of ner bell, I found the usher of the hall, with the • The Three Graces," in marble, by Canova appearance of a gentleman, dressed in a suit himself, is here, and is surpassingly beautiful. of black, with black shorts and knee-buckles, Then I was shown the theatre, for private silk stockings and shoe-buckles, waiting in theatricals; the aviary, full of birds and three the entry, to show me into the drawing-room, black swans; the grassarium, where grasses where the Duke met me, and where I found a alone are cultivated for experiment; the Chivery large party of elegantès. At half-past nese dairy, full of everything exquisite; the seven, we went into dinner. I have never heathery, containing heaths only; the house for seen anything so splendid. The service was tropical plants; the pinetum, for pines only; all of gold and silver, except the dessert plates, the lakes; the shrubberies ; the statues in the which were of Sevrès porcelain, and presented open grounds; the kitchen and fruit garden, a to one of the former Dukes by Louis the Fif- wonder in itself; the Temple of Liberty, conteenth. I observed many large, massive pieces taining the busts and statues of some of the of gold plate in the centre of the table, and a most distinguished friends of the Duke's fasilver waiter or tray, to support them, more ther; then the horses and stables, which were, than eight feet long and nearly two wide. in fact, almost palaces in their way; then the There were two large gold tureens, one at
saddle-room, where there were certainly fifty each end of the table. Besides the gold ser- saddles, all order for use; then the carriagevice on the table, there were, among other house, where were twenty-seven four-wheeled plate, two large gold waiters on the side-board, carriages; then the tennis-court; then the presented to the former Duke, as agricultural riding-school. The women, too, in this place, premiums. The arms of the family are a at the different lodges, who opened and shut deer; and there were four salts in my sight, the gates of the park, were in livery, being being a deer, about five inches high, of silver, dressed in bright scarlet gowns, with white with antlers, and two panniers slung over his caps and aprons, presenting a gay and pleasing back, one containing coarse, and the other fine costume.” salt. The servants, in livery and out of livery, were numerous, and the dinner, of course, comprising every possible delicacy and lux!ry the nerves of our simple republican, and
This is splendor quite sufficient to stir in meats, wines, fruits, &c., &c. The evening was passed in the drawing-room, some of the gives, perhaps, a fair sample of the style party'at cards, some at billiards, some reading of living among the higher nobility. Mr. the papers, some at work, until eleven o'clock, Colman adds however, recollectively, that when the party take their wine and water, or
some of the arrangements at Woburn Abseltzer, or soda water, and their candles, and bey are not universal; such as an usher retire. The dress of the ladies was more splendid than I can describe, and the jewels
of the hall, and groom of the chambers ; and diamonds on the head, and neck, and the elegance of the housekeeper's room, wrists, and fingers, as brilliant as their own equal in its furniture to that of most bright eyes. At ten, we met for breakfast, drawing-rooms; a professional musician
employed every evening for the piano, / ing “show-places” as they are termed, and the Duchess's page constantly in at- the seats of the nobility. He never feels tendance on her, dressed in green and that he has purchased dearly the benefit gold lace, and epaulets, with a sword by and pleasure he receives, and is altogether his side.
too good-humored to quarrel with anything That Mr. Colman does not forget the short of immorality. He has a nice sense object of his mission, under the excite- of the beautiful, and discerns it not only ment of these splendid entertainments, is in the objects connected with his mission, manifest from the zest with which he -in fields, dairies, and cattle—but also, describes the results of his agricultural with considerable gusto, in such animal observations, fully testifying that he is re- specimens as are the more refined and . freshed, not enervated, by the fascination delicate product of nature's handiwork. of high life, and ready on the spur of oc- English women, Scotch, Irish, Dutch, and casion, “ To scorn delights and live labori- French ; their characters, manners and ous days,” and eager for 'fresh fields costumes, are observed with a discriminatand pastures new.'
ing eye. Accustomed to the keen, quiet At the farms and agricultural shows, humor, so common to the women of AmerMr. Colman finds exercise for his organ of ica, he remarks that “fun” is a rare qualwonder. Lord Yarborough's 60,000 ity among those of England. The English acres of plantation and 600 tenants- ladies impress him agreeably. eighteen thousand bushels of wheat raised in one year by one man-stacks of grain “ I do not think they are better informed than containing 800 bushels, and barley stacks, the same class of people among ourselves, but one, fifty-four yards long, and others, if I may use an Hibernianism, which I think forty-eight in height, with width propor
you will understand, they seem to me much
more manly than most of our women, and far tional. “ This,” cries our agriculturist,
more independent. They have quite as much “is farming with a witness.” He repre- delicacy and modesty, but no affectation or sents the farmers' wives and daugh- fastidiousness." ters, as well as the noblesse, at the fairs and shows, as not only taking interest in He finds a surpassing elegance, though all these matters, but actually inspecting not always the best taste, in the style of the implements and the cattle ; and show- dress of ladies in the higher classes, but ing the remarkable points of the animals the dress and appearance of the middle like experienced breeders of live stock. classes, with many exceptions, appears to really suchand also him much
“I am free to Many la- say dies of the highest rank, he says, take a has been constantly increasing; they seem deep interest both in agriculture and poli- to be well educated, with great self-respect, tics; and one lady of rank is represented without any painful reserve.” He gives, to have introduced him in person to the by the way, a little anecdote, showing how farm offices on her husband's estate; the a slight trait of selfishness, insinuating itstables, cow-houses, pig-sties and barn- self like disunion among the graces, can yards, explaining all the modes of man- put the manners of a court quite on a level agement with the most perfect under- with the less studied etiquettes and elestanding. At Ayre, in Scotland, Mr. gancies of a republic. The Queen is deColman was shown some of the best scribed reading her speech in the House farming he had ever seen. At Falkir of Lords. " The House, excepting the Tryst, the largest market in the world, he seats occupied by the peers, was filled reports having seen “between sixty and with ladies of rank and distinction.” He seventy thousand sheep, and from forty goes on to describe the dress and appearto fifty thousand head of cattle, with ance of the Queen and her attendants, the horses innumerable.” The farmers gen- splendid array of crown and coronets, jewerally are represented as extremely rich els and diamonds, and the formulas of ofand intelligent.
fice and etiquette. Some of the peeresses Mr. Colman defends the custom, SO
and ladies in front of the bar stood upon widely censured, of exacting fees for visit- | benches, so as to interrupt the view of the