Of Cairo, or Misr, as it is denominated by the natives, Mr. Legh gives us a succinct description, most of which we have extracted.

"In the castle where the Pacha resides, is the mint, the well of Joseph, 276 feet deep, which is cut out of the soft calcareous rock, and the palace, or hall, attributed, with equal propriety, to the same celebrated personage. It was built by Sultan Saladin, and offers an extraordinary instance of the use of the pointed arch. With respect to the city of Cairo itself, the houses are built of brick, and are remarkable for their extreme height, while the streets are mean and dirty, and so narrow as scarcely to allow two loaded camels to pass. The only part which has any claim to be exempted from this general censure is the place, or square, called Esbquieh, into the centre of which the water of the Nile flows at the time of the inundation.

'Among the chief curiosities which attracted our attention, may be ranked the bazaars, of an appearance far superior in splendour to any we had witnessed in our travels in Turkey. Each trade has its allotted quarter, and the display of superb Turkish dresses, costly Damascus swords, ataghans, and every species of eastern luxury and magnificence, formed a most brilliant and interesting spectacle. We visited also the slave-market, where, to say nothing of the moral reflections suggested by this traffic in human beings, the senses were offended in the most disagreeable manner, by the excessive state of filthiness in which these miserable wretches were compelled to exist. "The population of Cairo has been estimated at between 3 and 400,000, and that of all Egypt at two millions and a half. The inhabitants of the capital are of a most motley description, consisting of Arabs, Copts, Turks, Albanians, Greeks, Syrians, Arminians, Jews, negro slaves from Sennar, and Barbarins, or the natives of the country beyond the Cataracts. These last are in considerable numbers, and, like the Gallegos of Lisbon, are in great estimation for their habits of honest industry.

'Cairo is a place of considerable commerce, and is the metropolis of the trade of Eastern Africa, the chief mart of the slaves who are brought from Abyssinia, Sennar, Darfur, and other parts of Soudan. The caravans which arrive from these countries bring also gold dust, ivory, rhinoceros' horns, ostrich feathers, gums, and various drugs.'

The day after their arrival at Cairo,

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the author and his friend, with other tlemen, paid their respects to the Pacha, by whom they were graciously received.

On the 2d of January Mr. Legh and his companion crossed the Nile to Gizeh, where they passed the night and proceeded the next day to visit the Pyramids in its neighbourhood.

'At the distance of two hours from Gizeh, we found ourselves, on the following morning, at the foot of the largest of these wonderful monuments, the period and object of whose construction have been, for so many ages, the theme of wonder and discussion.

'As we mounted the heap of sand and rubbish which leads to the opening into the Pyramids, and prepared to explore the galleries which conduct to the interior, we had every reason to applaud our prudence in bringing with us a Turkish soldier, as a guard; for it required all his exertions and authority to prevent the entrance of a crowd of importunate Arabs, who are always ready to guide, and, if occasion offers, to rob the traveller whom curiosity may conduct to this celebrated spot.

The account given by Denon of the interior of the large Pyramid, the only one that has been opened, and indeed which it is practicable to ascend, is so correct and complete, that it would be difficult and quite unnecessary to attempt to add to his description.

'On our return from the galleries, we ascended to the top of the Pyramid, but from the unfavourable state of the weather, it being a rainy misty morning, our exertions were not repaid by the view of the boundless expanse of desert, which is usually seen from that enormous elevation, though the fatigue of reaching the summit considerably exceeded that of climbing the cone of Mount Etna. On our descent we breakfasted at the base of the Pyramid, and after admiring the graceful outline of the Colossal Sphinx, returned to Cairo, which we reached by two o'clock the same day.'

At the time of the arrival of our author, Egypt enjoyed a greater degree of tranquillity than it had known for many years. The present Pacha, Mahomed Ali, who is represented as a man of great talent and extraordinary decision of character, was formerly the captain of a pirate boat in the Archipelago, and owes his elevation to his present rank and power solely to his personal qualities. After the English evacuated Egypt, a misunderstanding ensued between the Turkish and Albanian troops, and the Mamelukes

who had been driven into Upper Egypt, were called in by the latter to assist in deposing the Turkish Pacha. The Mamelukes, in turn, began to lord it over them, and they found it necessary to make an effort to get rid of these oppressors. They attacked Osman Bey Bardissi, the Mameluke chief, with very superior forces, and compelled him to retreat, with few attendants, to Upper Egypt. The choice of the Albanian soldiery then fell upon Mahomed Ali, who had alike distinguished himself by his valour and capacity. Since that period,' adds Mr. Legh, the Pacha has not only driven the Mamelukes out of Upper Egypt, but pursued them beyond the Cataracts as far as Ibrim, and compelled them to take refuge in Dongola.

'The police of the city of Cairo is also highly creditable to the vigour of his government, and he has so far repressed the disorders of his troops as nearly to verify a promise he had made on his appointment to the Pachalic, that in a few years "you might walk about the streets with both hands full of gold."

'During our stay at Cairo we found the Pacha engaged in organizing a large body of troops to act against the Wahabees, who had, in the preceding campaign, nearly annihilated his army in a battle near Jedda.'

For the account of this people, or rather religious sect, we have no room. We shall pass over many remarks in relation to the military history of Mohamed Ali's reign, and his diplomatic connexions, to our author's departure from Cairo on his expedition up the Nile.

The journey from Cairo to Upper Egypt and Nubia, was commenced on the 14th of January, 1813. Whilst at Cairo the travellers were so fortunate as to conciliate the good will of the Pacha, who provided them with a cangia, (boat) for their voyage, and a firman or passport, for their protection. Thus equipped, Mr. Legh and the Rev. Mr. Smelt, set out on their adventure, having engaged Mr. Barthow, an American, who had resided many years in the country, to accompany them, and act as interpreter. Our limits will not allow us, minutely, to follow their course. They did not reach Siout, which has succeeded to Girgeh, as the capital of upper Egypt, till the 26th of January. Here they fell in with Shehk Ibrahim, with whom they had become acquainted in Cairo. He had travelled up the country on asses, and was waiting for a guide to prosecute his journey. Siout is the great mart of the slave trade. In

the journey across the Desert to this place, the drivers take the opportunity afforded by periods of distress, and scarcity of water and provisions, to emasculate their male slaves. It is said not one in three survives this cruel operation. The methods resorted to in order to secure the virginity of the female slaves are scarcely less horrible. On the 28th they reached Antropolis, now called Gaw-efKeber. Here are the ruins of a famous temple. The portico, which is standing, consists of three rows, each of six columns, eight feet in diameter, and with their entablature, sixty-two feet high ;four of them have fallen down. Every stone of the building is covered with hieroglyphics. On proceeding up the Nile, Mr. Legh remarks on the wonderful fertility of its banks, and deplores the existence of a tyranny, which by its various exactions does not allow more than a twentieth of the products to be retained by the cultivator of the soil, and thus takes away every incitement to industry. On the 30th they reached Menshieh, the ancient Ptolemais Hermii, of which no vestige remains but the ruins of an old quay. Here whilst at anchor, a Turkish soldier discharged his musket at them for mere amusement. The ball passed through the hat of a servant, and hit the arm of Mr. Smelt. On applying for redress, for this outrage, to the Cacheff, they were told, that as the Turk was only a passenger on the water as well as themselves, he was not liable to his jurisdiction. On the 2d of February the party left Menshich and passed Diospolis Parva, the modern How. Just below this place they saw crocodiles for the first time. Whilst opposite How, they experienced a gale of the Kasmin, a violent wind of the Desert, which often overwhelms caravans in the sand. On the morning of the 6th they landed on the plain of Thebes, the city celebrated by Homer for its hundred gates. The cir cumference of the ancient city has been estimated at 27 miles, and it has been said that in the day of its power, it could, upon any emergency, send forth 20,000 warriors at each of its gates. Above this city, and on the western bank, are the Memnonium, the two colossal statues and the remains of Medinet Abou. A fragment of one of these statues, lying among the ruins of the Memnonium, measures 25 feet across the shoulders. From this some idea may be formed of the size of the building it was intended to ornament.

On the 11th of February the travellers reached Essouan, having performed a

perfect. We must dispense, however, with copying the description of them. Guerfeh Hassan is about 9 miles below Dakki, where is a most stupendous excavated temple. The area is 64 feet in length and 56 in breadth. The first chamber is 46 feet 6 inches long, 35 feet 3 inches wide, and 22 feet 3 inches high. The second chamber is 34 feet 6 inches wide, and 15 feet 6 inches long. They passed into four smaller apartments. The temple contains some gigantic statues of priests, and numerous hieroglyphics. In the third chamber they found an altar and four statues seated on a bench, which, as well as the figures, is eut out of the solid rock. On the 2d of March they visited the ruined temple of Kalashi. We must pass over the account of this, and all other places they noticed, till their return to Essouan. On revisiting Thebes, our travellers were induced to descend into one of the mummy pits that abound in that vicinity. They found it a most disgusting scene, the Arabs having scattered, in every direction, the fragments of the bodies which they had rifled of the bituminous substance in which they were embalmed. Not satisfied, however, with their discoveries in this region, they determined, on their arrival at Manfalout, to examine some pits said to contain mummies of the crocodile. The Arabs had a superstitious dread of entering these caverns, but were prevailed on by a reward of 25 piasters, to undertake to be guides, Mr. Legh, Mr. Smelt, and Mr. Barthow, their American companion, with three Arabs, descended into the pit, by a circular aperture, to the depth of 18 feet. They then crept several yards on their hands and knees, when they found themselves in a large chamber about 15 feet high. Here they saw fragments of the mummies of the crocodile, which only stimulated their desire to penetrate further. They advanced, each preceded by an Arab, and after many windings found themselves in the same chamber again. The Arabs were evidently reluctant to proceed, The travellers, however, were resolved to see the end of the adventure. They compelled their guides to resume the search. They came at length to a ditch, which they leaped. The passage they now entered was so contracted that they were obliged to crawl on the ground. They pressed on, but before they had proceeded far in this way, the heat became excessive. Mr. Legh tells us he now found his respiration difficult, his head began to ache violently, and he ex

perienced a distressing sensation of fulness about the heart. They felt that they had gone too far,-but how to return. 'At this moment,' says Mr. Legh, 'the torch of the first Arab went out; I was close to him, and I saw him fall on his side; he uttered a groan-his legs were strongly convulsed, and I heard a rattling noise in his throat-he was dead. The Arab behind me, seeing the torch of his companion extinguished, and conceiving he had stumbled, passed me, advanced to his assistance and stooped. I observed him appear faint, totter and fall in a moment-he also was dead." The explorers then mustered strength to retreat, leaving the third Arab to share the fate of his comrades-though happily he escaped. It was with extreme difficulty that they were able to reach again the mouth of the pit, where they might still have perished of exhaustion and dismay, had not water been poured on them by those they had left on the outside; who made a rope of their turbans and drew them up. Thus, this rash and foolish attempt to discover crocodile mummies, caused the death of two ignorant Arabs; though neither Mr. Legh, nor his Rev. companion, appear to have felt any compunction for the fatal issue of this stupid undertaking. They ought to have known that azotic gas must inevitably exist in a vault of this kind, and however they might choose to risk their own lives, should have forborne to expose those who had no knowledge of their hazard. They were arrested on a charge of murder, but compromised by paying the wives of these unhappy men twelve piasters, or two Spanish dollars a-piece!-though it is probable their country men will revenge themselves for an injury, which they attribute to malice, upon the first European that falls into their hands. Thus other lives may probably be lost, in consequence of this inconsiderate and foolhardy proceeding.

After this tragic event the party pursued their journey, without further hindrance or molestation, to Miniet. Here they were met by a courier, who gave such alarming intelligence of the progress of the plague that they deemed it dangerous to proceed, and accordingly took up their residence at this place for several weeks. Destitute of books, they contrived to vary the monotonous tenor of a Turkish life by learning to ride after the method of the country, and in acquiring the use of the djeritt. This afforded employment for the morning. In the evening they generally amused them

selves by attending the exhibitions of the Almes, or dancing girls, at the house of the Governor. Shooting and bathing were additional recreations.

During their residence at Miniet they saw several persons attacked with the ophthalmia. The method of treatment is to bind up the eyes, as tigh dy as possible, to exclude the light and air. After three days the bandage is removed, and frequent bathing with cold water completes the cure. The inflammation is frequently very great, and the pain severe. Mr. Legh's servant found rel.ef by introducing between the eyelids a small quantity of very finely powdered sugar every night. In regard to diseases, Mr. Legh further remarks, that the symptoms of syphilis are in this country extremely mild, and generally yield to the simple use of the warm bath and an increased attention to cleanliness, which, at other times, is too much neglected.

At Musict our travellers fared well, and had abundance of fish. Among others a species called in the country Bulti, the Labrus Niloticus, which somewhat resembles the white trout, and sometimes weighs fifty pounds. They left this town on the 1st of May, but found, on their arrival at Cairo, that the plague still raged there. They were obliged to take up their abode at Boulac. They soon after removed to Rosetta, where, also, the plague was prevalent. By a close voluntary imprisonment and strict precaution they escaped the contagion. The natives, who are firm believers in predestination, take no care to avoid exposure. In reply to remonstrances on this point, they merely answer, “Chulo men Allah." "Every thing comes from God."

What measures of security our travelfers adopted will best appear from Mr. Legh's own account.

The house we occupied had double doors, and in the space between them we placed two very large jars filled with water, which was changed once in twentyfour hours; and having provided ourselves also with a fumigating box, to reecive all our letters, we hired an Arab for a plaster a day, to station himself every 1orning under our windows, receive our orders, and purchase our provisions.

With respect to our bread, we took the precaution of never touching it till it was cool, as it is ascertained that in that state it does not communicate the plague. Even letters which have been fumigated must be allowed to cool before they are touched.

Our meat, whether beef or fowls, the

latter being previously plucked, was all thrown into the water jars, from which, after a certain interval, it was cautiously taken out by one of our servants, who opened the inner door for the purpose. In this manner we lived for several weeks, witnessing the most distressing sights of death and disease under our windows, from which we had frequent opportunities of observing attacks of the plague, as it first seized upon its unfortunate victims. As far as we could judge from their gestures, they appeared to suffer most violent pains in the head, and were at the same time seized with violent retchings, and black vomiting.'

Our author adds with characteristic sang froid:- We lost three of the Arabs, whom we had engaged to act as our purveyors in the town. When the mortality was at its height, the numbers who died daily amounted to about eighty.'

'It was impossible, however,' he continues, 'to include in our measures of safety the few English soldiers who were employed, together with about fifty Arabs,in looking after the horses piqueted in the camp without the town; but the judicious directions of their officers, and the ready obedience of the menin avoiding every occasion of touching either the native servants, several of whom died, or the horses of which they had the immediate care, saved them from any infection.

"The exemption of the British soldiers from the attacks of the disease is an additional instance in support of the opinion that the plague is only to be communicated by actual contact, for they were exposed to the same atmosphere, and to the action of the same general causes, as the less fortunate natives who, like themselves, were employed in the care of the horses.'

'We heard of no remedy for the plague: when the swellings broke, sea bathing was supposed to be very beneficial, but after that event the patients generally recovered without any remedy.'

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When the natives are seized with the first symptoms of the plague, they wrap themselves up in their cloaks, and endeavour to promote perspiration by drinking large quantities of warm water. In a short time, swellings break out in the groin and under the arms, and if they are alive thirty-six hours after the first seizure, they generally recover. We saw a Turk at Alexandria who had suffered several attacks of the plague, and he informed us, that as soon as he was able to move, he crawled to the sea side, in which he constantly bathed.'