MEN'S CLOTHES.

31

some, economy in clothing was a necessity. As is usual, when a want appears, it is met; and in this case it certainly was, in a (to us) novel manner - Morning Post, January 12, 1805: "INTERESTING to the PUBLIC. W. Welsford, Tailor, No. 142, Bishopsgate Street, respectfully informs the Public, that he continues to pursue the plan, originally adopted by him, six years since, of SUPPLYING CLOTHES, on the following terms:

Four Suits of Superfine Clothes, the old

"Those Gentlemen who should not prefer the above Contract, may be supplied at the undermentioned reduced price:

A Coat of the best Superfine Cloth, com

Nor was this the only practical economy in dress in that age. Hats, which were then, as a rule, made of Beaver, were somewhat expensive articles; and, in looking diligently over the newspapers of the times, I found that here, again, a want arose, and was met. These Beaver hats got shabby, and could be repaired; a firm advertising that "after several years' practice they have brought the Art of Rebeavering Old Hats to greater perfection than it is

possible to conceive; indeed, they are the only persons that have brought it to perfection; for, by their method, they can make a gentleman's old hat (apparently not worth a shilling) as good as it was when new. . . . Gentlemen who prefer Silk hats, may have them silked, and made waterproof."

Hats were rendered dearer than they would, otherwise, have been, by their having to pay a tax-the only portion of personal clothing which did so. This tax, of course, was evaded; so we find, in the Morning Post, May 20, 1810, the following "CAUTION TO HATTERS. A Custom prevailing among hatters, of pasting the stamp upon the lining, by which the same stamp may frequently be sold with different hats successively, they are required by the Commissioners of the Stamp Duties, to conform, in selling hats, to the provisions of the Act of the 36th of George. III., cap. 125, secs. 3, 4, 7, 9, which directs that the lining, or inside covering of every hat shall, itself, be stamped; and it is the intention of the Commissioners to prosecute for the penalties of that Act, inflicted on all persons guilty of violating its regulations. Persons purchasing hats are requested to be careful in seeing that they are duly stamped upon the lining itself, and not by a separate piece of linen affixed to it; and reminded that the Act abovementioned (sec. 10) inflicts a penalty of £10 upon persons buying, or wearing, hats not legally stamped."

We have seen it recommended to the Bond Street

Lounger that it was absolutely necessary for him to have an eye-glass suspended from his button-hole; and the same fashion is mentioned in the Morning Post, August 28, 1806: "The town has been long amused with the

ORIGINALS. A HINT TO THE BON TON.

quizzing glasses of our modern fops, happily ridiculed by a door-key in O'Keefe's whimsical farce of The Farmer. A Buck has lately made his appearance in Bond Street, daily, between two and four o'clock, with a Telescope, which he occasionally applies to his eye, as he has a glimpse of 4

VOL. II.

some object passing on the other side of the street, worth peeping at. At the present season, we cannot but recommend this practice to our fashionable readers, who remain in the Metropolis. It indicates friendship, as it shows a disposition to regard those who are at a distance."

There have been, in all ages of fashion, some who outvied

the common herd in eccentricity of costume; and the early nineteenth century was no exception to the rule. It is true that it had not, in the time of which I write, arisen to the dignity of a "pea-green Haines;" but still, it could show its "Green Man." "BRIGHTON, September

A

25, 1806. Among the per

sonages attracting, here,

public notice, is an

ORIGINALS. A HINT TO THE BON TON.

original, or would-be original, generally known by the appellation of the Green Man.' He is dressed in green pantaloons, green waistcoat, green frock, green cravat; and his ears, whiskers, eyebrows, and chin, are better powdered than his head, which is, however, covered with flour. He eats nothing but green fruits and vegetables; has his rooms painted green, and furnished with a green

THE GREEN MAN.

35

sofa, green chairs, green tables, green bed, and green curtains. His gig, his livery, his portmanteau, his gloves, and his whip, are all green. With a green silk handkerchief in his hand and a large watch chain, with green seals fastened to the green buttons of his green waistcoat, he parades every day on the Steyne, and in the libraries, erect like a statue, walking, or, rather, moving to music, smiling and singing, as well contented with his own dear self, as well as all those round him, who are not few." That he had money was evident, for his green food, including, as it did, choice fruit, would sometimes cost him a guinea a day; besides which, he was seen at every place of amusement, and spent his money lavishly. Eventually, he turned out to be a lunatic, and, after throwing himself out of windows, and off a cliff, he was taken care of.

The two preceding illustrations are manifest exaggerations of costume; but the germ of truth which supplies the satire is there; and, with them, the men's dress of this period is closed.