gation, which, as the city increases, will doubtless be extended. It is spanned by a wooden bridge so rickety that it shakes with a child's tread-the governor has urgently but unavailingly represented the necessity of reconstruction. But, although the true Western, or rather Keltic recklessness of human life-which contrasts so strongly with the sanctity attached to it by the old Roman and the modern Anglo-Scandinavian-here still displays itself, in some points there is no disregard for improvement. Mr. Brigham Young has seen the evils of disforesting the land, and the want of plantations; he has lately contracted for planting, near Jordan and elsewhere, a million of young trees at the rate of one cent each. On the way we saw several fine Durhams and Devons, which are driven out every morning and back every evening under the charge of a boy, who receives one and a half cent per mensem a head. The animals have been brought across the prairies at great trouble and expense: stock-breeding is one of the Prophet's useful hobbies, and the difference between the cattle in Utah Territory and the old Spanish herds still seen in the country parts of California is remarkable. The land, as will presently appear, is better calculated for grazing than for agriculture, and a settlement of 500 souls rarely has less than 500 head of cattle. Returning from Jordan, we re-entered the city by the western road, and drove through Mr. Brigham Young's block toward the Northern Kanyon. The gateway was surmounted by a plaster group, consisting of a huge vulturine eagle, perched, with wings outspread, neck bended as if snuffing the breeze of carrion from afar, and talons clinging upon a yellow bee-hive-a most uncomfortable and unnatural position for the poor animal. The device is doubtless highly symbolical, emblematical, typical-in fact, every thing but appropriate and commonsensical. The same, however, may be said of one of the most picturesque ensigns in the civilized world-what have stars to do with stripes or stripes with stars? It might be the device of the British or Austrian soldier -only in their case, unlike the flag of the United States, the stripes should be many and the stars few. En passant we remarked a kind of guard-room at the eastern doorway of the White House a presidential title which the house of prophecy in New Zion shares with the house of politication* at Washington: my informants hinted that, in case of an assault upon head-quarters by roughs, marshals, or other officials, fifty rifles could at once be brought to bear upon the spot, and 1000 after the first hour. On the eastern side of the compound were the stables; a lamb in effigy surmounted the entrance, and meekly reposed under the humane injunction, "Take care of your flocks." Beyond this point lay a number of decrepit emigrant wagons, drawn up to form a fence, a young plantation of fruitless peaches, and the remnants of the falling wall. *The Western press uses to "politicate," v. n. to make a trade of politics, and the participle politicating-why not, then, politication? We then struck into "City," usually known as "Brigham's" Kanyon, the Prophet having a saw-mill upon the upper course. It is the normal deep narrow gorge, with a beautiful little stream, which is drawn off by raised water-courses at different altitudes to supply the settlement. The banks are margined with dwarf oaks and willows; limestone, sandstone, and granite, all of fine building quality, lie scattered about in profusion, while high above rise the acclivities of the gash, thinly sprinkled with sage and sunflower. Artemisia in this part improves like the population in appearance, nor is it always a sign of sterility; in parts wheat grows well where the shrub has been uprooted. The road along the little torrent was excellent; it would have cost $100,000 in Pennsylvania, but here much is done by tithe-work; moreover, the respect for the Prophet is such that men would rather work for him on credit than take pay from others. Being in want of local literature, after vainly ransacking the few book-stalls which the city contains, I went to the Public Library, and, by sending in a card, at once obtained admission. As usual in the Territories of the United States, this institution is supported by the federal government, which, besides $1500 for books, gave $5000 for the establishment, and $400 from the treasury of Utah is paid to the Territorial librarian, Mr. John Lyon, who is also a poet. The management is under the Secretary of the Territory, and the public desire to see an extra grant of $500 per annum.* 1. The volumes, about 1000 in number, are placed in *An Act in relation to Utah Library: Sec. 1. Be it enacted by the Governor and Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Utah, That a librarian shall be elected by a joint vote of the Legislative Assembly of the Territory of Utah, whose duty it shall be to take charge of the library (known in law as the Utah Library), as hereinafter prescribed. Sec. 2. Said librarian shall hold his office during the term of two years, or until his successor is appointed, and shall give bonds for the faithful discharge of his duties in the sum of $6000, and file the same in the office of Secretary of the Territory before entering upon his duties, who may also appoint a deputy, as occasion requires, to act in his stead, under the same restrictions as the principal librarian. Sec. 3. It shall be the duty of the librarian to cause to be printed, at as early a date as practicable, a full and accurate catalogue of all books, maps, globes, charts, papers, apparatus, and valuable specimens in any way belonging to said library; also to use diligent efforts to preserve from waste, loss, or damage, any portion of said library. Sec. 4. It shall be the duty of the librarian, for and in behalf of the Territory of Utah, to plant suits, collect fines, prosecute, or defend the interests of said library, or otherwise act as a legal plaintiff or defendant in behalf of the Territory, where the interests of the library are concerned. Sec. 5. The location of the library shall be at the seat of government of the Territory of Utah, and it shall be the duty of the librarian to have all the books of the library orderly and properly arranged within the library-room, for the use of such officers and persons as are named in the fourteenth section of the Organic Act for Utah Territory, during each session of the Legislative Assembly of Utah; provided, however, that nothing herein contained shall debar the librarian, in vacation of the Legislative Assembly, from permitting books, maps, and papers being drawn from said library, for professional and scientific purposes, by officers of the United States and of Utah Territory, and other citizens of Utah, where the librarian shall judge the public good may justify. a large room on the north side of the "Mountaineer" office, and the librarian attends every Thursday, when books are "loaned" to numerous applicants. The works are principally those of reference, elementary, and intended for the general reader, such as travels, popular histories, and novels. The "Woman in White" had already found her way across the prairies, and she received the honors and admiration which she deserved. On the evening of the 30th of August, after dining with the governor, I accompanied him to the Thermal Springs, one of the lions of the place. We struck into the north road, and soon issued from the town. On the right hand we passed a large tumble-down tenement which has seen many vicissitudes. It began life as a bath-house and bathing-place, to which the white sulphury waters of the Warm Springs,* issuing from below Ensign Peak, were brought in pine-log pipes. It contained also a ballroom, two parlors for clubs and supper-parties, and a double kitchen. It afterward became a hotel and public house for emigrants to California and Oregon. These, however, soon learned to prefer more central quarters, and now it has subsided into a tannery of low degree. About two and a half miles beyond the northern suburb are the Hot Springs,† which issue from the western slope Sec. 6. It shall be the duty of the librarian to let out books for a specified time, and call in the same when due, inflict fines for damage or loss of books, and collect the same, and keep an accurate account of all his official doings in a book kept for that purpose, and make an annual report of the same to the Legislative Assembly of Utah; provided that no fine shall be excessive, or more than four times the purchase price of the book or books for the loss or damage of which the fine may be inflicted. Sec. 7. The librarian is hereby entitled to draw from the treasury of Utah for the current year as compensation for his services the sum of $400, not otherwise appropriated; also the sum of $200 to defray the expenses of stationery, printing catalogue, and other contingencies. Approved March 6, 1852. *The following is the analysis of the warm spring by Dr. L. D. Gale, printed by Captain Stansbury in Appendix F. It dates from 1851, but apparently more detailed trials have not yet been made. One hundred parts of the water (whose specific gravity was 1.0112) give the following results: Sulphureted hydrogen absorbed in the water....... 0·037454 1·023087 The usual temperature is laid down at 102° F. The water of the Hot Springs was found to have the specific gravity of 1·0130, and 100 parts yielded solid contents 1.1454. Chloride of sodium. 0.8052 0.0288 0.1096 0.0806 Carbonate of lime..... Silica........... 0.0180 0.0180 1.0602 The usual temperature is laid down at 128° F. of the hills lying behind Ensign Peak. A generous supply of water, gushing from the rock into a basin below, drains off and forms a lakelet, varying according to season from one to three miles in circumference. Where the water first issues it will boil an egg; little below it raises the mercury to 128° F. Even at a distance from the source it preserves some heat, and, accordingly, it is frequented throughout the winter by flights of waterfowl and camping Indians, whose children sit in it to thaw their half-frozen limbs. These springs, together with the fresh-water lake and the Jordan, are held to be more purifying than Abana and Pharphar, rivers of Damascus; and, being of the Harrowgate species, they will doubtless be useful to the Valley people as soon as increased luxury requires such appliances. When the wind sets in from the north, the decided perfume of sulphureted hydrogen and saleratus is any thing but eau de Cologne. An antiMormon writer, describing these springs and other evidences of igneous and volcanic action, dwells with complacency upon the probability that at some no distant time New Zion may find herself in a quandary, and-like the Cities of the Plain, to which she is thus insinuatingly compared-fuel for the flames. On our way home the governor pointed out the remains of building and other works upon a model farm, which had scarcely fared better than that of Niger celebrity. The land around is hoar with salt, and bears nothing but salsolæ and similar hopeless vegetation. CHAPTER V. Second Week at Great Salt Lake City.-Visit to the Prophet. SHORTLY after arriving, I had mentioned to Governor Cumming my desire to call upon Mr., or rather, as his official title is, President Brigham Young, and he honored me by inquiring what time would be most convenient to him. The following was the answer: the body was in the handwriting of an amanuensis—similarly Mr. Joseph Smith was in the habit of dictation-and the signature, which would form a fair subject for a Warrenologist, was the Prophet's autograph. "GOVERNOR A. CUMMING. "Great Salt Lake City, Aug. 30, 1860. "SIR-In reply to your note of the 29th inst., I embrace the earliest opportunity since my return to inform you that it will be agreeable to me to meet the gentleman you mention in my office at 11 A.M. to-morrow, the 31st. BRIGHAM YOUNG." The "President of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints all over the World" is obliged to use caution in admitting strangers, not only for personal safety, but also to defend his dignity from the rude and unfeeling remarks of visitors, who seem to think themselves entitled, in the case of a Mormon, to transgress every rule of civility. About noon, after a preliminary visit to Mr. Gilbert-and a visit in these lands always entails a certain amount of "smiling" -I met Governor Cumming in Main Street, and we proceeded together to our visit. After a slight scrutiny we passed the guard -which is dressed in plain clothes, and to the eye unarmed-and walking down the veranda, entered the Prophet's private office. Several people who were sitting there rose at Mr. Cumming's entrance. At a few words of introduction, Mr. Brigham Young advanced, shook hands with complete simplicity of manner, asked me to be seated on a sofa at one side of the room, and presented me to those present. Under ordinary circumstances it would be unfair in a visitor to draw the portrait of one visited. But this is no common case. I have violated no rites of hospitality. Mr. Brigham Young is a "seer, revelator, and prophet, having all the gifts of God which he bestows upon the Head of the Church:" his memoirs, lithographs, photographs, and portraits have been published again and again; I add but one more likeness; and, finally, I have nothing to say except in his favor. The Prophet was born at Whittingham, Vermont, on the 1st of June, 1801; he was consequently, in 1860, fifty-nine years of age; he looks about forty-five. La célébrité vieillit-I had expected to see a venerable-looking old man. Scarcely a gray thread appears in his hair, which is parted on the side, light colored, rather thick, and reaches below the ears with a half curl. He formerly wore it long, after the Western style; now it is cut level with the ear-lobes. The forehead is somewhat narrow, the eyebrows are thin, the eyes between gray and blue, with a calm, composed, and somewhat reserved expression: a slight droop in the left lid made me think that he had suffered from paralysis; I afterward heard that the ptosis is the result of a neuralgia which has long tormented him. For this reason he usually covers his head, except in his own house or in the Tabernacle. Mrs. Ward, who is followed by the "Revue des Deux-Mondes," therefore errs again in asserting that "his Mormon majesty never removes his hat in public." The nose, which is fine and somewhat sharppointed, is bent a little to the left. The lips are close like the New Englander's, and the teeth, especially those of the under jaw, are imperfect. The checks are rather fleshy, and the line between the ale of the nose and the mouth is broken; the chin is somewhat peaked, and the face clean shaven, except under the jaws, where the beard is allowed to grow. The hands are well made, and not disfigured by rings. The figure is somewhat large, broad-shouldered, and stooping a little when standing. |