us to remain in it; but, in complying with these regulations, we experienced no little trouble, for three weeks elapsed before we could obtain this indispensable document, during which time we were almost worn out with running from the police to the governor, and from the governor to the police. If, however, it costs much trouble to obtain leave to view this metropolis, a stranger is afterwards rewarded for it, since he finds here a degree of splendour, variety, and novelty, such as hardly any other European city presents.

The capital of Russia has no monuments consecrated by the lapse of ages; and it offers to the antiquarian traveller no reminiscences of long past times. It does not interest us by what it has been, but by what it is; or if we advert to the past, it is merely to reflect that little more than a century has elapsed since the site of this now extensive, populous, and magnificent metropolis was a desert morass. Its ranges of palaces and palace-like structures, its domes and towers, the magnificent Neva branching out into different directions, and flowing round its islands, -the spacious quays and elegant buildings that embank it, all contribute to render this capital exceedingly picturesque. The streets are wide and straight, yet not laid out with that monotonous regularity which we find in most places that have been built almost at once, in

stead of increasing gradually. The most extensive portion of the city lies on the southern side of the Neva, and is intersected by three canals, the largest and widest of which is the Fontanka.

St. Petersburg is divided into twelve districts, fifty-four sections, and contains 400 streets; and the population may be estimated at 300,000. The quays, which are not exceeded by any, perhaps, in the world, run three miles in length, and throughout the whole extent are embanked by a parapet and pavement of granite. There are seven islands formed by ten arms of the river, and over the canals are 156 bridges; 120 of wood, twenty-nine of granite, and seven of cast iron, which afford the greatest facility of communication between different parts of the city. Among the extensive range of public and private buildings along the quays, is one called the English Line, from its being chiefly occupied by natives of Britain. In the Neva, whose transparent waters form a strong contrast to those of the Thames and Seine, this capital possesses a feature in which it is not rivalled by any other city in Europe. Of this every advantage has been taken; and the coup-d'œil here presented, of water and architecture, has something peculiarly grand and striking, both to the eye and the imagination. About the centre of the river is a bridge formed of planks of wood laid across boats, seventy feet in breadth, with foot-paths on

222

MARBLE CHURCH.

each side, and protected by enormous blocks of granite.

In front of this bridge, which may be considered as the focus, and most bustling part of the capital, is a large square. This is partly occupied by the senate, riding-school, and new horse-guards' barracks, which latter contain 1000 men, with as many horses; and at the upper part stands the marble, or St. Isaac's church. This edifice, which, at present, rather disfigures the square, it being only half finished, was begun by the Empress Catherine, who designed to form it entirely of the material from which it derives its name. It occupied twenty-six years to raise the walls, which were founded on a basement of granite; and the building itself was constructed entirely of marble, jasper, and porphyry. On her demise, Paul expressed a wish to complete it; but resolved most inconsiderately to deviate from the plan, and finish it with brick, and it was proceeded with accordingly. This occasioned some severe pasquinades, contrasting his taste with that of the Empress, and asserting that his plans were as brittle as clay, while those of the latter. were as durable as marble. No traces of the author of this satire could be found, after diligent investigation. In this state the church now remains a monument of the magnificence of Catherine, and the folly of her successor. It has since been determined to finish it in marble, and

MARBLE CHURCH.

223

considerably enlarge it. According to the plans of the present architect, Montferand, it is intended to erect three porticos, each of which is to have eight Corinthian columns in front, and three in depth, formed of single blocks of polished granite, with bases and capitals of bronze. The height of the columns will be fifty-six feet, which is ten feet more than those of the portico of the Pantheon at Rome. Besides the principal cupola, there will be four lesser domes, so that, when the whole is completed, it will form a most conspicuous and noble object, not only as seen from the square, but in every view of the city. Hitherto thirty millions have been expended, and eighteen millions more will be required to finish the structure.

While we were here, a vessel arrived from Finland, at the bridge opposite to this church, with two of the columns, and sunk in the river; and apprehensions were entertained that they would be totally lost. Machinery was erected in order to raise the bark; and after several days' operation, and prodigious labour, the columns were brought on shore. A windlass was then placed at some distance in the square, and ropes attached to the masses of granite, under which logs had been placed. Horses were yoked to the windlass, and the columns were thus very slowly dragged to the spot where the others

were.

224

STATUE OF PETER THE GREAT.

Near this bridge is the colossal statue of Peter the Great, an object which, both from its extraordinary magnitude, and its merit as a work of art, is not only unique, but sufficient to repay the traveller for his visit to St. Petersburg, even did this metropolis contain nothing else worthy of notice. It has, however, been so repeatedly and so minutely described by all who have written on the capital of Russia, that it would be superfluous to enter into any detail respecting it. It may, however, be observed, that admirable as its general locality is, yet its precise site is not the very best; for it is to be regretted that this noble monument was not placed in the centre of the square, where it might have been seen from several streets.

The manège, or riding-school, which has an imposing appearance, is 620 feet long, and 140 broad. The entrance, which is not from the square, but behind, has on each side a flight of steps, communicating with a platform, and a railing in front, where spectators may view the exercises of the cavalry. In the same square is a part of the admiralty, a pile of astonishing extent, its façade being 1400 feet in length. In the centre of this front is a large arch, serving as the principal entrance, and conducting to the dock-yard, and depôt of naval stores, towards the river. On each side of this gate are groups of sea-nymphs, on pedestals of