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340

OBSERVATIONS ON

taken from the grave, and laid on the front of the altar, while the people exclaim that the Saviour is risen. In the evening it is carried to the grave, with the sign of the cross on it.

The local situation of the cemetery I have alluded to appears to suggest some observations not altogether unimportant. It appears to point out the expediency of all places of interment being at some distance from towns. Public decency requires it; and it is to be regretted that this has been totally overlooked in our own country, where the evil has been complained of with great justice. It will be found that an anxiety prevails not only to bury beneath churches, but in the ground attached to them, which is, for the most part, crowded to excess, and it therefore often becomes a difficult task to find a new grave, or, in fact, even open an old one, without disturbing human ashes. Is it not revolting to reflect, on committing the mortal remains of a fellow-creature to the silent mansion, that they will probably be treated in the same careless manner as those now disturbed by the sexton? and does it not naturally lead us to conclude, that our own ashes, when consigned to the dust, will meet with a similar treatment? In England, church-yards are not only often thrown open, but frequently made common thoroughfares, or used for drying linen and other domestic purposes. Not only do such practices

CEMETERIES GENERALLY.

341

tend to diminish that proper respect for the mansions of the dead, but when the funeral service is read in a spot surrounded by streets and houses, it necessarily loses much of its solemnity and impressive effect. Among the ancients it was the custom to bury the dead without their cities, and the same practice prevails in most · countries at the present day; which, indeed, serves to illustrate one part, among others*, of the inspired volume, where it is said, that " Abraham stood up from before his dead, and said unto the sons of Heth, give me a possession of a burying place with you, that I may bury my dead out of my sight;" a desire repeated by the Pa triarch. + The cemetery of Père-la-Chaise at Paris, and that at Copenhagen, which are, perhaps, altogether unrivalled in Europe for extent, and the order and beauty in which they are kept, are beyond those capitals, and exhibit the greatest taste and propriety. It is, however, for the sake of the living, not of the dead, that a decent respect is to be shown to the mouldering remains of humanity, since the treatment these receive cannot possibly affect the latter-cannot detract aught from their bliss, or add a single pang to their misery. Without adverting to the absurd superstitions inculcated on this subject, it may suffice to observe, that rather contradic† Gen. xxiii. 3, 4.

* Gen. xxxv. 19.
+ Gen. xxiii. 8.

342

WATCHMEN AT VILLAS.

tory opinions are entertained respecting it; for the field of honour, as it is styled, is no more consecrated ground, than is the cross-way where felons are interred. What a singular trait, too, is it in human nature, that persons who take no thought of their souls, are frequently those who are most solicitous concerning the final disposal of their bodies!

On leaving the convent, we passed several villas in the environs, many of which, being enveloped in trees, afford harbour for those who are intent on depredations. Watchmen are, therefore, employed; and in order to prove that these guardians are on the alert, the following mode is employed: from a large pole, which is attached horizontally to two trees, is suspended a piece of thick iron, probably two feet by four in breadth; this the watchman strikes at different hours of the night with a hammer, and a piece of iron. The noise is something like a gong, and heard at a great distance; yet a rattle, it might be supposed, would answer the purpose equally well, and be used in any part of the grounds. Near one villa we saw an inscription in four languages, authorising every person of respectable appearance and behaviour to amuse himself unmolested as he chooses.

There is an asylum here for lunatics, and nany private houses for the reception of that

STATUE OF SUVAROV.

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unfortunate class, but we could not ascertain their precise number.

I will now proceed to make some miscellaneous observations on the capital and its inhabitants, previously to taking my leave of it.

In paving the streets, the mode is first to make a square, a wide extended cross, or the form of a diamond, of large stones, after which it is filled up with small stones, and these are secured by pieces of brick.

A spot, sometimes called the Square of Mars, which occupies a great extent of ground, similar to that at Paris, is set apart for exercising the troops; but the small posts and cords, like those on a race ground, to prevent the intrusion of carriages, have a paltry effect. Near this spot, is an equestrian statue of Suvarov, who is represented in a warlike attitude, holding his sword in the right hand, and resting his left on a pedestal of marble, raised upon three steps, on which is placed a crown and sceptre, as if he was in the act of protecting them.

Having formerly alluded to the punishment of the knout, it may be proper to mention, that the place set apart for its infliction on criminals is that where cattle are sold. The instrument employed is fixed to a wooden handle one foot in length, to which are attached several thongs, extending two feet, and twisted together, which, after being laid in milk and water, are dried in

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PUNISHMENT OF THE KNOUT.

the sun, in order that they may operate more powerfully. To the end of these is fastened a single tough thong one foot and a half in length, and capable of being changed by the executioner, when he finds it too weak, or softened or clotted with the blood of the miserable sufferer. There have formerly been instances of this terrible punishment being inflicted on persons of rank. In confirmation of this fact, it may be stated that a lady, distinguished for her beauty, accomplishments, and elegance, and, at one time, almost idolized, having been charged with being implicated in a conspiracy, was, to the eternal

*A philanthropist, on visiting this country, went directly to the house of the executioner, when the following dialogue took place :

P. Can you inflict the knout so as to occasion death?
E. I can.

P. In how short a time?

E. In a day or two.

P. Have you ever inflicted it?

E. I have.

P. Have you lately?

E. Yes the last man I flogged died of the punish

ment.

P. In what manner do you make it mortal?

E. By one or more strokes on the sides, which carry off large pieces of flesh.

P. Do you receive orders to inflict it severely?

E. I do.

It is also related that he saw a man and woman suffer. The latter was first lashed, receiving five strokes, which penetrated the flesh; and the man had sixty; afterwards their nostrils were split, and they were branded by puncturing.

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