PROVISIONS OF THE LOWER ORDERS. 355

of any thing on Russia.* It often happens, that if books, even of the most trifling kind, and for the amusement of children, are received from England, they are sent to the censor, who determines if they shall be restored to the owner or not, as he sees proper; but even then, not without great delay, trouble, and inconvenience to the parties.

The provisions which the lower orders chiefly subsist on, are rye-bread, buck-wheat, cabbages, and mushrooms. There are stalls in the streets, where black bread, and an acidulous beverage, called quass, and gingerbread, boiled eggs, &c. are sold. With respect to the national penchant

*This subject cannot be touched upon without adverting to the circumstance of an Englishman having published an account of Russia, and dedicating it to the Emperor Alexander; but the contents were relished so little, that they actually became the subject of an ukase, in which His Majesty, instead of laughing at its falsehoods, or profiting by its truths, very sagely resolved that no foreign writer should dedicate a book to him without permission; as if this could prevent his name from being affixed to any foreign publication. Yet what was the effect of this extraordinary prohibition?-The publication was eagerly sought after, and, of course, obtained a rapid circulation; in short, it was just the very means of making the work known, and forwarding the views of the author.

As to provisions, their prices are regulated according to the season. Beef is from 23d. to 31d. per lb. Lamb and mutton are sold by the quarter. Quarter of lamb, 1s. Shoulder of mutton, 6d. Quarter of it, 2s. 1d. Shoulder of veal, 6d. Quarter of it, 2s. 11d. Fowls, 2s. a couple. Partridges, 6d. a pair. A large turkey, 3s. 4d. Salt butter, 8d. to 10d. per lb. ; fresh, 3s. 4d. per lb. Oysters, 4d. and even sometimes (in winter) 2s. 6d. each; and eggs three for 1d. and often 4d.

for oil, which the lower orders are said to esteem even a delicacy, it is about as true as that Frenchmen live on frogs, and English labourers on roast beef and plum-pudding. After all,

such things are mere matters of taste; and, if it has happened that a Russian boor has sometimes swallowed the contents of a lamp, his appetite is not much coarser than that of a fair Spanish donna, whose breath betrays her attachment to savoury compounds of garlic and onions. But wherefore should people ridicule and abuse each other for such little trifles?

All dealers, whether within or out of doors, and I can speak from personal observation, endeavour to impose, as far as their ingenuity can extend, on their customers, particularly on those who are strangers, asking double the value of their articles; a hint, it is trusted, travellers

a piece! Bread is much the same price as in England. A bottle of cream is 8d. In the preparation of all vegetables, sugar is uniformly mixed up. Immediately previous to dinner a glass of spirits or liquor is taken, by way of whetter or provocative, and a mouthful of dry salt-fish or ham. The wages of a coachman, with clothes and maintenance, 17. per month; footman for do., with clothes and maintenance, 12s. 6d. A female cook, 1l. 3s. monthly; and housemaid, from 9s. to 18s. a month. If board-wages are given, the sum allowed is 4d. a day. Each servant is subjected in an annual tax to government of five rubles for " a permission of residence," or liberty to take up his abode in the city. In the case of foreigners, men pay 10, and females 5 rubles.

PRISON REGULATIONS.

357

will attend to. We therefore always dealt, if possible, with either our own countrymen, or Germans, the latter of whom are numerous here. If, however, there be some lack of honesty and fair dealing on the part of the tradespeople, there is no want of politeness on that of their customers, as the latter make a point of pulling off their hats when they enter a shop; a practice that might surely have obtained for the Russians the credit of being a polite nation, and highly attentive to bienséance. Even in the post-houses and public offices the same mark of respect is looked for; or, if omitted, you are probably reminded of the breach of decorum by one of the sentinels or attendants. Whether they would exact the same show of good-breeding from a Quaker, I cannot say.

Among the regulations laid down in the prison for criminals, it may not be improper to mention the following:-They are obliged, from March 1. to November 1. to rise at five; and from the latter to the former period, at six o'clock in the morning. Half an hour is allowed for washing themselves, half an hour for prayer; when one of them is appointed to read a chapter of the New Testament, and another a psalm, aloud. Their breakfast consists of rye bread and salt; and after it, they are allowed to walk for half an hour. The hours of working are from seven to twelve o'clock in the morning, and two to seven

358

LADDERS EMPLOYED IN BUILDING.

o'clock in the afternoon. During working, silence is commanded; and those who disobey, are fed on bread and water. At finishing their employments for the day, all their tools are taken from them. From seven to half past seven o'clock in the evening, they are again permitted to walk in the yard; at the expiration of this time, one reads a chapter in the New Testament. At eight o'clock they sup, after which half an hour is allowed for their devotions. On sabbaths and holidays the criminals attend the prison chapel; the remainder of these days are employed in receiving religious advice from the clergyman. Spirituous liquors, articles of luxury and extravagance, gaming, singing, smoking tobacco, &c. are expressly forbidden. Surely such a system of discipline must be admitted to be quite as moral as that of our prisons.

Ladders employed in building, appear to be dangerous, although of simple construction, being a large pole or log of wood, with sticks across for steps, about two feet in length, similar to the spars or small sticks for poultry to mount in going to roost. On the top of these a board projects in front, like a small scaffold, resting on pieces of wood at each end attached to the pole, with an aperture in the centre to enable the person who mounts it to get through at the summit. These are ascended with facility by the Rus sians, with enormous loads on their heads; nor

do they appear to be under the slightest degree of apprehension for their personal safety.

1

Towers are erected in different parts of the city, where guards are stationed night and day, to give alarm in case of fire. A flag-staff is on the top, and balls are hoisted whensoever such an accident occurs.

Perhaps in no other country does there exist a more marked difference in the distinction of ranks. Princes absolutely swarm here, and, as may therefore be supposed, many of them are in exceedingly poor circumstances; for some persons in our own country would, according to a vulgar but significant expression, "buy and sell" hundreds of them. If a person be a

prince, however numerous his family may be, all his sons enjoy the same title; and however low may be their purse, they hold it to be exceedingly derogatory to their dignity to associate with, or even to be seen to sit in company with a roturier. Yet, notwithstanding all their pride of birth, and their hauteur, some are actually engaged in trade; and a bankruptcy has lately been announced of a prince, for seven millions of rubles. British merchants in St. Petersburg, however respectable they may be, both for wealth and integrity, are, in the eyes of these would-be great personages, absolutely of no account, or rather people whose society ought to be shunned, rank being a sine qua non