Early in November, prepare the ground intended for the full crop, lay manure between the ridges, two feet apart, and turn the ridges over on this manure; then transplant your cabbages on the ridges which cover the manure, at fifteen inches asunder-here they are to stand for the winter. Watch the slugs, and if any plants fail, supply their places from the bed. If the ground becomes hard in winter, dig it, and-particularly near the plants. In March, dig deep, and as soon as the plants begin to grow, dig the ground with a spade, clean and well, going as near the plants as possible, without displacing them. Dig again in April and May, (indeed you cannot dig too often,) and destroy all weeds, and about the first of June there will be cabbages.

The early Yorks will soon become solid, and will furnish food for cows and sheep until some time in September. In March and April sow more early Yorks, proceeding as before directed. Dig up and manure the ground, and as fast as you cut cabbages, plant cabbages. The last planting should be about the middle of August, with stout plants, and these will serve through the winter. Dig often between cabbages, but do not earth them up, or raise the earth about the stem, as is so commonly done. Digging is only useful, because it keeps down weeds, and facilitates the plants' reaching the manure, and obtaining nourishment from the soil.

When cabbages are planted out in autumn to stand the winter, plant a row of early Yorks, and a row of sugar-loaves, alternately. As the early Yorks come first, you will of course cut every alternate row, and the plants which are to be put in in the summer, will go in the intervals. As the sugar-loaves are cut away, you may sow Swedish turnips in their place, the ground being first dug and manured. The turnips should stand in rows, eighteen inches or two feet apart, and from nine inches to a foot asunder in the row.

Endeavour to plant in rainy weather. The distance of planting must in a great measure depend upon the strength of the soil, and the natural size of the variety planted; but as a general rule, it should be such as that the ground between them may be dug and kept clean. When the larger kinds are planted, as the Drumhead,

&c., two feet between the rows, and eighteen inches between each plant, is sufficient; while for York and the smaller kinds, eighteen inches between the rows, and one foot or fifteen inches between each plant, are the usual distances. Kale, or colewort, may be planted promiscuously, at six inches apart.

Cabbages are relished by all feeding animals, and are not only highly convenient as a substitute for turnips, but also afford an excellent variety and change of food; and are very nutritious when used with hay, either for stall-feeding, or for the dairy. Pigs prefer them to turnips, and they are highly useful for rearing calves.

The practice of feeding milch cows with boiled cabbages, is strongly recommended. Prepared in this way, they afford a nourishing food for cows, and produce an abundance of good milk. Cabbages form excellent food for pigs, by cutting them up with buttermilk or broth, and leaving them for a few days to sour and ferment. This mess is highly relished by the pigs, and is very nutritious.

To save cabbage seed, select a few of the finest specimens, and plant them by themselves, at a distance from other plants of the cabbage tribe; for bees carry the farina from plant to plant, when in blossom, and will thus adulterate the seed, unless care be taken to prevent it, by keeping the seed plants at a distance from all others.

CULTIVATION OF THE CARROT.

The Carrot requires a deep loose soil. Large crops are often raised on peaty land, but the best soil for carrots is a sandy loam. By whatever means the land is prepared, whether with the spade or the plough, it must be deeply and effectively stirred to a depth of from twelve to twenty inches, and rendered perfectly loose and friable, and all the root weeds must be carefully eradicated. When the spade is used, the ground should be trenched two spits deep. Fine crops of carrots have been obtained on poor soils, by trench-digging to the depth of twenty inches.

When the land is prepared by the plough, repeated

deep-ploughing is necessary; for if the ground be not opened and pulverised to a good depth, the roots will become forked, and send off side shoots in quest of the nourishment which they are unable to obtain below. The deep tillage required, may be accomplished by a trenchplough following the common one, or by the common one alone, with a good strong team. Three ploughings are mostly found sufficient, where the land has been previously in tillage, but more may in some cases be The first ploughing should be made to the depth of ten or twelve inches, about the beginning of October; and towards the middle of February, the ground should be turned over a second time, to nearly the same depth. In March a third ploughing may be given, in order to the putting in of the seed, and this may be lighter than either of the former ploughings. The Norfolk and Suffolk farmers turn in their manure at this ploughing.

necessary.

Carrots may be sown in drills, the seed being deposited on the top, in the same manner as turnips, which is decidedly the best mode; or they may be sown in rows, without being raised on drills; or else they may be sown broadcast. When sown in drills, they admit of hoeing and cleaning, and constitute a fallow crop, like turnips and potatoes; but the broadcast system is much practised in Suffolk, where large crops are obtained; and the same method is used in the Netherlands, where the carrot is highly valued, and carefully cultivated.

When sown in rows, shallow furrows are made at the distance of twelve to fifteen inches, from centre to centre, and in these furrows the seed is sown. This may be done by a machine, or by the hand, in which case mix the seeds with a little dry sand, and rub them in the hand to make them separate. When the seed is thus sown, cover it in with a slight harrowing.

Carrot seed is generally sown about the middle or latter end of March, but should on no account be later than the beginning of April. The quantity of seed will depend in a great measure upon its goodness. Two to three pounds for drill, and five to six pounds for broadcast, are generally sufficient,

Carrots should be taken up with a three-prong fork about the beginning of November, in dry weather, and the leaves should be cut off close to the root, and given to horses. They may then be put into narrow oblong heaps, the tails and heads being packed together, and the whole covered with straw. If taken up when dry, carrots will keep well in these heaps, without any other precaution than defending them from frost.

Carrots

may be given to every species of stock, and form in all cases a palatable and nutritious food, whether given in their raw state, or steamed or boiled in the same manner as other roots.

When given to cows, carrots are found in an eminent degree to give colour and flavour to butter, and whenever this is an object, no species of green-feeding is better for the dairy. To horses they may be given with cut straw or hay, and thus given, they form a food which will sustain horses on hard work, and materially improve their wind.

CULTURE OF THE PARSNIP.

The Parsnip so closely resembles the carrot in its culture and uses, that in describing the treatment of the one, little is left to be said in reference to the other.(see last article.)

The

The parsnip, like the carrot, requires a light rich soil, deeply trenched, and well manured. The time of sowing is February or March. The quantity of seed, and mode of cultivation, the same as the carrot. use is also much the same. The parsnip is, however, stated to be superior to the carrot for fattening cattle, affording meat of the finest quality. The parsnip will withstand frost better than the carrot; and if the soil be dry, may be allowed to remain in the ground during the winter; but it is recommended to take up a portion when the leaves begin to decay, and store them for The remainder may be taken up in February, and if preserved in dry sand they will keep till April or May.

use.

CLOVER AND RYE-GRASS.

No farming can be well conducted, in which the artificial grasses are not cultivated, for without them there cannot be a proper rotation of crops, or the requisite supply of manure. Clover and Rye-Grass are the chief artificial grasses in use in British husbandry. They should only be sown where the land is in good condition, and generally with the corn crop immediately following a fallow crop of turnips, potatoes, or mangel. wurzel.

In choosing clover seed, be careful that it is clean, and not mixed with other seeds, which may afterwards spring up and become troublesome weeds. The sorts of red, white, and yellow clover seed, may be easily distinguished from each other. The two latter are perennial pasture grasses, and the red clover is biennial, and grows tall and luxuriant.

Of ryegrass there are two sorts-the Italian, and the common perennial, and there is no certain mark by which they can be distinguished. It is therefore incumbent on the farmer to purchase his seed from a person of known character, in order to guard against mistakes in this respect. When the ley is only intended for a year or two, the Italian rye-grass is preferable, from its giving a more abundant crop than the common variety; but it is important that the latter seed be sown for permanent pasture.

When land is to be sown for permanent pasture, with white clover and rye-grass, the quantity of seed to an acre will vary with the condition and quality of the land, poor soil requiring most seed. White clover should only be sown in land intended for permanent pasture, for which it is well adapted; but it is wasteful to introduce it into alternate cultivation. The red clover is not adapted for permanent pasture, although in its proper place, and for soiling purposes, it is decidedly the best plant in alternate husbandry, and its growth cannot be too extensively encouraged. The yellow clover or trefoil, is somewhat more permanent than the red, but