named Rechtmeyer, who had been planted here a considerable time, and had an excellent farm under good cultivation. One of his sons was the first uneducated Dutchman whom I have heard speak English so perfectly, that I should not have suspected him to have been of Dutch extraction.

The latter part of our journey lay in the township of Bristol and the county of Schoharie. It was incorporated in 1797, and contained, in 1800, 1,083 inhabitants.

In the morning, September 25th, we proceeded on our route through a part of Blenheim, a part of Jefferson, a corner of Stamford, and through the townships of Harpersfield and Kortright, to Meredith: thirty-seven miles. The first part of our way lay in the valley already described. The northern ridge receded gradually toward the north-west; the southern continued its former western direction, and increased its height and rudeness until it terminated on Schoharie creek, eight miles from Rechtmeyer's. When we arrived at the creek, we found the bridge swept away by a late flood. This stream rises in the neighbourhood of Kingston, and runs directly north to the Mohawk, about eighty miles. Its bed is deep and rocky, its course rapid, and its waters, during every considerable rain, swollen instantaneously by torrents from the mountains into a deluge. Its banks, for a great distance, are formed by the ends of these eminences, rising on both sides in a long succession, and abutting upon the river in the form of huge promontories. The appearance of these heights, and of the whole neighbouring region, is singularly shaggy, wild, and horrid; nor is the prospect cheered by a smiling object. We were necessitated to ford the river. a waggoner on the spot, who directed us to place where we crossed it without much difficulty. On the opposite bank, however, we were compelled to make our horses climb up a rocky precipice, scarcely practicable, and attended with no small danger.

Happily we found

From the Schoharie we entered Blenheim, ascending a mountainous acclivity, near three miles in length. This township, so far as it was visible from the road, we found an almost absolute forest, as we afterwards did those of Jefferson and Stamford. I can scarcely conceive, that an agreeable residence will ever be found in either of these places.

Blenheim was incorporated since the year 1790, and Jefferson since the year 1800. The former contained, in 1800, 775 inhabitants; and, in 1810, 1,319; and the latter, in 1810, 1,740. Stamford was incorporated in 1792, and contained, in 1800, 924 inhabitants; and, in 1810, 1,658. It lies in the county of Delaware. In this part of our road we crossed two of the head-waters of the river which bears that name, and found them mere mill-brooks.

Harpersfield, which is in the same county, is a settlement of some standing. The surface is irregular, the hills are sudden, and the valleys are narrow. The face of the country is much inferior in beauty, and the soil in fertility, to Durham. The houses are comfortable; and the inhabitants have built themselves a decent church, added to it a steeple, in this region a singularity, and settled a clergyman. When I speak of a clergyman, with any qualification in the phraseology, 1 always intend a man regularly educated for the ministry, and regularly inducted into that office.

In the year 1790, Harpersfield contained 1,726 inhabitants. It was then an extensive tract of country, and belonged to the county of Montgomery. The present Harpersfield contained, in 1800, 1,013 inhabitants; and, in 1810, 1,691. It is now in the county of Delaware, which has been formed since the census of 1790.

All the hills and mountains in this region run from southeast to north-west, in the same direction with the Kaatskill range, some of them, however, inclining more towards the north, and others towards the west. It is observed by Evans, in the memoir accompanying his map of the British colonies, that the Kaatskill mountains are the termination of the Alleghany range, and that the county westward of them is a continued plain, of the same elevation with these mountains. These assertions, which originally excited in my mind no small astonishment, have been extensively believed, as well as often repeated. Nothing, however, can be farther from the truth.

The Kaatskill mountains are a range of lofty eminences, of no great breadth, the most elevated summits of which are far higher than any other land in the state. Westward of them the country, throughout a considerable extent, is a rude col

lection of hills, and of interjacent vallies, often so narrow and deep as strongly to resemble ravines. The loftiest of these eminences is a mere hillock, compared with the height of the Kaatskill. All of them, so far as I had opportunity to observe, run in a north-western direction, at right angles with that of the Alleghany range. The Alleghany range terminates near the head-waters of the Genesee river, and is visible from the great western road to Niagara. The space between the Kaatskill and its dependencies, and the Alleghany range, or that occupied by the head-waters of the Susquehannah, is filled up with hills and vallies, running in a great variety of directions; so great, that to the eye on elevated ground the whole region appears to be a mere mass of confusion.

From Harpersfield we entered Kortright. The settlements on the road, in this township, are less numerous than in Harpersfield. The principal of them is formed in a pleasant valley, and on the bordering hills, which are handsomely arched. In such objects we felt not a little interested, as having been for some time strangers to them. The soil and the houses of Kortright differ little from those in Harpersfield. We saw neither church nor school-house. In 1800, Kortright contained 1,513 inhabitants; and, in 1810, 2,993.

From Kortright we entered Meredith. This township, as to its surface, is entirely distinguished from every other on this road, being formed of smooth, easy, elegant rising grounds, and of vallies of corresponding beauty. Durham can boast of finer prospects, and of a handsome surface; but the surface in Meredith is far more inviting to the eye than that of Durham.

From the house of Mr. Law, a handsome mansion in the centre of the town, the prospect stretches to the south, over a valley ultimately bounded by mountains, at the distance of thirty miles; and to the north, over another valley, which extends ten miles. The hill, which limits the northern prospect, is covered with a magnificent growth of white pines, one of which, having fallen down, was measured by Mr. Law, and was found to be two hundred and forty-seven feet in length. This cluster is the only considerable one, composed of fullgrown trees of this kind, which I have seen. A few years since, such trees were in great numbers along the northern parts of Connecticut river, but they are now very generally

destroyed. It is not improbable, that the next generation may never see a white pine of the full size; and may regard an exact account of this noble vegetable production as a mere fable.

The soil of this township is rich, being the same with that mentioned heretofore in the description of Hartford. We saw oats here six feet in length, and were informed by Mr. Law, that they frequently grew to seven.

The central parts of this township labour under a singular, as well as very great inconvenience, the want of water for doWells have been dug to very great depths, but without any success*.

mestic uses.

The central square mile in Meredith is laid out in lots, of a moderate size, for the accommodation of merchants, mechanics, and others not employed in farming. The turnpike road, which passes through the middle of this plat, is here crossed by another road passing through the middle of it also, from north to south. Around the point of intersection is laid a public square, intended to be the site of a church, an academy, town-house, school-houses, &c. The ground is naturally handsome, and the situation very pleasant. It is not improbable, therefore, that on this spot may be hereafter added the beauties of art to those which it derives from nature. For these advantages, and many more important ones, which will seriously contribute to their future prosperity, the inhabitants of this township will be indebted to the taste, good sense, and good principles of Mr. Law, almost the only person, I am sorry to say, who in directing the concerns of a new settlement has, within my knowledge, furnished occasion for remarks of this nature.

Meredith is in the fullest sense a new settlement. In the year 1800 it contained only 213 inhabitants; and, in the year 1810, 726. Peculiar efforts have been made by Mr. Law to introduce into this township sober, industrious, virtuous settlers. In this manner he has probably secured its prosperity, both moral and physical, for a century. Since the date of my journal the inhabitants have built an academy, in which they assemble for public worship.

In the morning we left Meredith, and passed through

* One has been dug since, which yields a tolerable supply of water.

Franklin, and a corner of Sidney, to Unadilla: twenty-eight miles. The first part of our road through Meredith, and the eastern part of Franklin, was almost wholly a forest. As soon as we left Meredith the hills began to be steep and rough, and the country to lose its beauty. From this forbidding tract we entered a settlement on the Ouleout, a handsome mill-stream, which is a branch of the Susquehannah. The valley through which it runs extends from east to west a considerable distance. The borders of the Ouleout are in a long succession formed by rich intervals, divided into meadow and arable, and covered alternately with a lively verdure, and good crops of maize, and other species of corn; the river winding through them with a course elegant and delightful. The settlement is for some miles a thinly built village, composed of neat, tidy houses. The inhabitants are Baptists and Presbyterians. One of these classes had raised, and was building, a church. Every thing on this spot indicated prosperity. From Meredith to this settlement the road descended with a disagreeable rapidity. Here we found it very pleasant. When we left this village it became again disagreeable. The rapid declension was renewed. The country wore a forbidding aspect. The hills were steep and shaggy; and the vallies narrow, rude, and lean. The houses, also, were thinly scattered; and many of them denoted great poverty. Both Franklin and Sidney are in the county of Delaware. In the year 1800, Franklin contained 1,390 inhabitants; and, in the year 1810, 1,708. Sidney, in the year 1810, contained 1,388.

When we arrived at the Susquehannah, we found the only innkeeper on the eastern side of the river unable to furnish us a dinner. To obtain this indispensable article, we were obliged, therefore, to cross the river. The ferry-boat was gone. The inhabitants had been some time employed in building a bridge; but it was unfinished, and impassable. There was nothing left us, therefore, but to cross a deep and rapid ford. Happily, the bottom was free from rocks and stones, and the passage from the danger, which we encountered in fording the Lower Amonoosuc; a stream of about the same breadth and depth as the Susquehannah at this place.

About four miles from the ferry we came to an inn, kept