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was the same young lady whom I had watched— Miss Binford. She did not see me on the ship, as I hoped, though she searched carefully. The Japs, I think, prevented. When I started to leave the ship, she thought she recognized me, but was not certain until I reached the stairs. After hearty greetings, she said:

“Now, Ontie, we had better get your luggage out of the customs.”

The letters being alphabetically arranged along the different sections allotted to luggage, I soon found my "L" and my possessions. I was asked if I had any whisky, and replied that I had some in my flask in my bag, which I opened and showed, and was then told it would not be necessary to open the rest of my luggage.

We secured a man who assisted us to a carriage, placed in the luggage, and we were wheeled up to the Northwestern Hotel.



Miss Binford wanted to start for London on the first train, but I protested, as I was determined to have one good, quiet night's rest on terra firma. This I had, and the next morning, Monday, May 22, after a good breakfast, I felt quite refreshed. We agreed to take a morning train to London. First driving down to the White Star Line offices, where I arranged to have my steamer trunk, chair, etc., stored in their warerooms; then exchanged my stateroom from the lower to the upper promenade deck, and well toward the bow instead of the stern, as I was returning home on the same ship—Baltic. . This time I took a stateroom with bath.

We returned to the hotel for lunch and then went to the station, which adjoins the hotel.

Gusta asked whether I wanted to travel first or second class, saying there was very little difference in the carriages. I told her to suit herself, so she took the second class. The best seats in our carriage had been reserved, and were so marked, so we took second best. Presently the door opened and a fussy little woman got in with her hand luggage, looked around, fussed because the best seats were reserved, and finally settled herself opposite us, with her luggage in the rack


above. She kept moving about uneasily, and in a few minutes moved over into the seat by the window, reaching up, tore off the reserve ticket, settled calmly down into the seat, making some remark to us that we did not understand.

A few minutes before the train started, a nervous woman got into the carriage, with so much luggage she could not get it all on the rack, and several suit

were left in the corridor. She was barely seated when the guard whistled and we were off.

Evidently the seat appropriated by the fussy woman belonged to the nervous one, but she made no protest, and the fussy woman kept it.

All luggage put in the van has to be looked after by the owner at each junction, as there is danger of its being put off at the wrong station and lost. My suitcase, being too large to go up in the rack, was put in the van, and Gusta got out at every junction to watch

The nervous woman was evidently looking for some friend, as she got out at every stop. She was rewarded at last and returned with her friend, a tall, nervous woman. They came in talking loudly and fast, and kept it up almost incessantly, monopolizing the conversation, as we could not even think, much less try to talk. Their voices were high pitched, rasping and shrill, and every few minutes one or the other would shriek out "Well, really!" I was heartily disgusted, and suppose my face showed it, for soon they noticed it, and immediately subsided into more quiet tones. The nervous woman, after a while, went to a suitcase in the corridor, which she had quite a time to open, and when she succeeded, took out a large package that seemed to be all it contained. Seating herself by her companion, she opened it. It was a fruit cake of some kind, and they ate it for luncheon, as there did not seem to be anything else. But there was fuss enough made for a regular meal.


This was my first and last experinece in a secondclass carriage. I told Gusty hereafter I wanted to travel first class.


Arriving to London, we took a taxi and drove direct to Morley's Hotel, one of the oldest hotels here; small, quiet and typically English. We liked it so well that we made it our stopping place whenever we were in this city. It was quite full on this, our first, arrival, and we were obliged to occupy one room together, but it was large and there were two beds in it. When we went to register, I was standing at Miss Binford's side and asked for rooms with bath connection. The clerk looked at me in a surprised way and replied:

“Madam, we have no rooms with bath connection. You might find them across the way, at the Grand Hotel, as they have recently put in two or three suites with bath.” The Grand is a very large hotel, and the idea of having only one or two suites with bath seemed quite ridiculous to me.

Our rooms had been wired for, but this, like all other hotels, was full at this time. People who had come to see the funeral cortège of the late King Edward. Miss Binford was in London at the time, awaiting the arrival of my ship. She was greatly impressed with the solemnity of it all. As the gun carriage which bore the casket of the late king passed along the streets, the people who packed both sides for miles sang in low tones the king's favorite hymns. All England seems to feel the loss of their beloved sovereign, as of a relative or personal friend. The people of Great Britain will wear mourning for several months. Mourning is seen everywhere. The shops and windows display only black, purple, lavender or white goods.

After we were settled in our room, we rested until time to dress for dinner. We had an excellent and well served meal, but so different from our own that I was not quite certain whether I had dined or not.

The night was lovely, being warm and bright moonlight, so we called a hansom cab and drove through the most noted parts of the city. My first glimpse of Westminster Abbey was through the trees and across the lake in the park. It was a beautiful picture. We must have driven a couple of hours, and even then were reluctant to return.

Tuesday, May 24, after a light breakfast, we went over to the National Art Gallery, which is just across from our hotel, where we spent a pleasant and profitable morning. Commencing at the earliest productions in art and gradually advancing up to the famous masters. Gusty is very fond of art and well up in it,

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