Le whole back of the crown was gone. It had been a vely foliage hat of rose leaves and buds. Of course. called Gusty for advice. She replied:

"Well, Ontie, you know I told you in London, I was going to put fresh flowers on my hat."

I said, "Why did you not tell me mine was needing epair also?"

"I thought you would know," she said.

I replied: "I shall have to try to have fresh leaves out on it now, as I do not want to buy a new hat till I get to Paris."

Gusty was out of patience, and she showed it, and said: "I do not know one word of Dutch, and how can we have it done?"

"Well, just take me into a milliner shop," I said, "and I will tell them what I want."

I then put on my crownless hat, tying a veil over it, which partly concealed its defects, and getting into the carriage we started. We passed several bonnet shops and I suppose Gusty was making up her mind what to do. Then I saw another, and said, "I am going in here," which I did, Gusty following me. I expected to make my wants known by signs, but Gusty asked in French, on a venture, if my work could be done. Like a flash, the milliner and Gusty were talking away in French, and the milliner proved to be a French woman, and she thought Gusty was a Parisienne. Well, a very pleasant face Gusty turned, and said:

"All right, Ontie, the woman says she can trim your hat in a short time while we wait."

And when it was returned to me, it looked alm as well as ever.

We drove from here to the Royal Palace, wh was built years ago for a town hall. Consequer the entrance is not very imposing. It is very lar The throne room is handsome, the sculptu frieze being unusually fine. Three beautiful crys chandeliers hang from its ceiling, the center being largest. From here we drove through the Jewish qu ters. These are mainly Portuguese. We went h to see the diamond polishing and some of the worl most famous diamonds. It being Saturday, th closed early, and we only had a short time the Then we went to Ryk's Museum. Here we saw Re brandt's "Nightwatch" and one of his fine portrai Elizabeth Bas. We also saw pictures of the lit Dutch masters, so called because all of these paintin are small, but very fine. We saw the Schreierstor (or Crier's Tower), built in the fifteenth century, called from the number of tears shed by people biddi good-by to friends leaving by deep-sea steamers th used to stop at the tower.

July 10. We spent a quiet Sunday, writing a resting, and I was hoping for a cablegram in reply mine, but none came.

Monday, July 11. I fully expected a cablegram th morning, but was disappointed, so we carried out of schedule plan, and took the canal trip. The steam was a narrow, flat boat, the best seats being on dec We steamed on the canal to Brock, the cleanest tow

Holland. We visited one of the houses where the Holland cheese is made. Houses, sheds and stables re all under one roof. The beds are square niches or helves in the walls, all fitted up in inviting-looking white, with white curtains. This seems characteristic of the Dutch peasantry. The house was immaculate and was a good specimen of the cleanliness of the place. Leaving here, we took a peep into the little church. We saw a fine ebony pulpit, of which they are justly proud. We then returned to our steamer, continuing our ride to Monnikendam. This is a very quaint village. We left our steamer here, walking through and to the opposite side of the village, there taking another and a little larger steamer. Just before we went on board, a number of the village children, girls and boys, stepped up beside and commenced walking with us, the leader being a large, pleasantfaced boy, who asked if he should sing for us. I had heard him singing in a weak voice, which did not appeal to me, so told him "No." He said "I sing for a lot of folks, and they give me money and send me postcards and presents." I had been told to look for the singing boy, but he did not answer the description in any particular, yet I was told afterward that he was the singing boy. We were now well out in the Zyder Zee, which required the larger boat. We had a fair luncheon on this boat, while on the way to the Island of Marken, our next stop. This is a fishing village, and the people still wear their quaint costumes. We left the steamer on arriving, walking up to the

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few houses that constitute the village. The first vi
I had of an inhabitant was a pair of huge wood
sabots sticking up very prominently while the lit
woman whose feet they were on was kneeling, he
down, with hands in the water, doing her washing
a large, square pond made for this purpose. T
women all wear caps that fit across the forehead a
around the head closely, with a puff of hair pulled o
in front of the cap on the forehead, and a long cu
hanging down from each side. The children dress
gorgeous calico jackets and gowns, with caps matchi
the gown. This cap is composed of six pieces. Th
also wear curls. Some are very pretty, while othe
are just strings of hair. The boys and girls up to s
years of age dress exactly alike. After then, t
boys are distinguished by a button on the crown of t
cap.
I think the whole village of youngsters we
dressed out of one bolt of calico. The men and old
boys wear large knee-pants, shaped like balloons, sto
ping at the knee.

Their tiny little houses are very clean and they a proud of them and very desirous of showing ther mainly, I think, for the tips that are given. The chi dren all sing out in a chorus as we pass, "Money money! money!"-even the tiniest lisping ones.

From Marken we started on our return trip way of Volendam. The profanity of Holland is di tressing, as you are damned by every name. The pi is quite long here, being almost a bridge up to th village, making such a long walk, and I decided to r

ain on the boat. Gusty went up with others to see the illage. I was very anxious to possess some of these uaint caps. These here have high crowns, with pointed nds that turn backward at the ears. Gusty was fortuate enough to secure two of them for me, both lace _nd hand-made by the owner. These caps, it seems, re handed down from one generation to another.

As we started again, tea was served on the boat. I took lemonade. And we had some of the famous Dutch buttercake. It was fine. We arrived back at the Amstel Hotel, but I still found no cablegram for me. This caused us to change our plans, as we had expected to leave the next morning. I felt too anxious about my aunt to make another change until hearing from her. Therefore we decided to remain until the cablegram came.

Tuesday, July 12. We rested in the morning and after lunch took a long drive, stopping on our way back to get some of the little Dutch cakes and some hopjes, a little, hard candy. On our return, I found a cablegram, telling me my aunt was much better.