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We left here Wednesday morning, July 13, for Hildesheim, Germany. We passed through Amersfoort. This has only two places of real interest, and both are
seen from the train—the old water gate, which is a house built on a bridge over the stream, and a tower, all that is left of a very old church. We dined on the train in the Speisewagen (dining-car). From here we passed through Apeldorn. We had a glimpse of little Queen Wilhelmina's summer home in the distance. There is a lovely drive leading to it, under arched trees. We crossed the frontier of Germany about 2 P. M., reaching Hildesheim at 6 P. M. We stopped at Hotel d'Angleterre (English Hotel). Here I had my first experience with the so-called feather bed as a covering, and I am delighted with it. I shall take one home with me. They really are down. Whether eider or goose, they are delightful, being so light and warm. The coverlets and pillows match in color, usually a dark, rich red of either silk or velvet. The top sheet is made about a half-yard larger all around than the huge pillow, and at night the maid (usually a man) buttons the upper sheet over the sides of the coverlet to protect it, the head pillow being covered also. We had a refreshing night's rest.
Thursday, July 14. We took a victoria and started out to see Hildesheim, driving first to the old town hall. This is large and handsome, with carved doors and woodwork, one of which was particularly beautiful, as the wood was so dark with age it looked like ebony. The frescoes here are quaint and extremely interesting. Frescoes are usually Biblical, historical, or mythological. Here they are historical. The stained glass in this hall is also quaint, showing trees, fruit and flowers. We wanted to see the civil marriage room, but could find no guide. We drove from here through the principal streets, where quaint old houses with high sloping roofs line each side of the streets. There were small dormer windows in the roof, clear up to the peaks, showing at least five stories. There are three stories in the house proper, each story overlapping the lower. The greater part of all these old buildings are carved, some being beautiful in design. They are of all shapes and sizes intermingled, the small among the large, forming a quaint and unique picture. We went to Saint Michael's Church, built on the plan of an old Roman basilica (law court). It is said the plan of the Christian church is an evolution from the basilica of the Romans. This is one of the oldest and finest of its kind in Germany. We went from here to St. Mary Magdalene's Church, very old and plain, but in a small room behind the altar is a narrow door, hardly seen, that leads into it, and here, in a closet, is a beautiful jeweled cross of very fine workmanship, a rare old treasure that has always been
in this church. It is the work of Bishop Bernward. There are curiously carved silver candlesticks on either side of it, and just below, on a lower shelf, is a figure in silver of Bishop Bernward, who built the church, a great and good man. Miter, robe and staff are all studded with precious stones. The old sexton (in this case, a woman) was justly proud of her trust and treasures. We drove back to St. Michael's Church to see the crypt, guided by the little son of the sexton. Gusty never misses a crypt if she can help it. This little youngster could hardly keep his face straight. He was so delighted to ride with us, wiggling around on his seat like an eel, so anxious to be seen by his companions. We went from here to see St. Godehard's Church, which is similar in style to St. Michael's. From here we drove to the cathedral. This, like all the churches in Hildesheim, is very old. The interior has been greatly changed. The cloisters are picturesque, being built in two stories. Looking out from the cloisters toward the cathedral, a rosebush is seen growing on one side of it, said to be one thousand years old. It is known to have been there since 1500. In the sacristy are wonderful church treasures, some of them being Bishop Bernward's work. This good man, besides holding his holy office, was both an artist and an architect. Thus endeth the Hildesheim chapter, being composed mostly of churches,
After luncheon we left for Berlin, arriving at 6 P. M. Stopping at Hotel der Kaiserhof, one of the oldest and best hotels in the city, modern in every way, and kept with a quiet reserve, both refreshing and restful.
Friday, July 15. We started out in this handsome capital city of the German empire, going direct to the palace of the kaiser. We awaited our turn, with others, in one of the courtyards, until our guide came. I felt I was shown an indignity by being obliged to climb up the brick drive where horses enter, it being a steep climb to the second story, where are the rooms of state. We were ushered into a large long hall, having benches around the sides. I saw the attendant lift the seat of one of these benches near me and take out a great armful of footholds, immense in size. These were given to each visitor, men, women and children alike, and they were requested to put them on and wear them during the visit. I slipped into mine and pushed along with the rest, not daring to raise a foot for fear these sandals would drop off. I saw one just in front of me that some one had dropped and then discovered it was from my own foot. I got into it again without the least trouble. I think Gusty and I could have easily used one between us if we could have walked in that way. We were shown from one great room to another, all most gorgeous in their colorings and decorations. The throne room was in red velvet and gold; the state dining-room in gold and Prussian blue. The sideboard occupies nearly one end of this room. It is in gold and Prussian blue enamel, very handsome. It was filled with gold plates and tankards. The last room shown was the picture gallery, a very long room with portraits of kings and queens, and large paintings, representing battles, court scenes, etc. After leaving here, we were allowed to shed our "small” sandals, and pass
down a narrow winding stairway to the ground and outer world.
We went from here to the old museum and found there really was a lift, but which few make use of, as a small fee is charged. It is unnecessary to say I took it. We saw here many fine portraits and pictures by the Dutch and German masters, besides noted artists of other countries. Murillo's "St. Anthony" was the loveliest of these to me. These galleries are extremely large and weeks could be spent in them with pleasure. We left in time for the concert at Guard Mount.
After lunch, we drove out through Thier Garten, the beautiful park of Berlin, on our way to Charlottenburg, to see the royal mausoleum. We saw the tomb of Queen Louise and King Frederick William of Prussia. The windows of the mausoleum are filled with Prussian blue glass that shed a soft blue light on the reclining marble figures on the tombs. The figure of
Queen Louise is extremely beautiful. A large angel in white marble guards the entrance. The grounds