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are large and perfectly kept ; everything is done by rule and on time, throughout Germany.
Our drive going and returning took us through the residence portion of the city and by country homes. On reaching the city we called on Mrs. McElwee, a charming American woman, who has made Berlin her home for a number of years, and whom I met on one of her visits home. She seemed delighted to renew my acquaintance, and before we left invited us to go to a tea garden to-morrow evening.
Saturday, July 16. We drove out to see the shops, spending some time there, then drove down to the barracks, heading the procession down to guard mount at the palace, and listening to the fine band concert. Returning, we drove up Unter den Linden, the famous avenue of Berlin, and one of the handsomest to be found in Europe. Den Lindens, however, are one grand fizzle, as they are only small, scrubby trees, almost unsightly. This splendid avenue has at its head the Brandenburger Gate, and at the other end stands the statue of Frederick the Great. We went from here to the hotel, took lunch and rested till Mrs. McElwee came for us. She came with her son who had come unexpectedly for a visit. We found him equally as charming as his mother, to whom he is a devoted and proud son. They came in a motor, taking us first for a drive, showing us fine city residences and country estates. A motor passed us rapidly with the two sons of the kaiser in uniform-fine-looking young
We then drove to Lunna Park, where we had supper. There a number of these amusement parks in and around the city. Every one visits them, rich and poor alike, as the price is within the means of all. The situation of Lunna Park is charming. The large pavilion is built on the top and sides of a hill, with tiers of seats down the side toward the little lake at its foot. Two large bands in different parts of the pavilion play all evening alternately. The grounds are large and they have all sorts of innocent amusements for entertainment of visitors. After supper, we walked through the grounds, watching merry parties shoot the chutes and ride on the scenic railway; saw the jumping stairs and the bumping boat. Then Mrs. McElwee, her son and I bowled for a while.
We enjoyed a delightful and novel evening, then returned to our hotel.
Sunday, July 17. Remained quietly in our rooms, resting
Monday, July 18. We left at 8:05 A. M. for Dresden, arriving there at 11:06, stopping at Hotel Bellevue, on the Elbe river. It is quite crowded here and we have been obliged to take a single room, with twin beds. I hope we will be comfortable, though both prefer single rooms. As soon as we were located, we started sightseeing, not wishing to lose a minute's time. Many points of interest are near our hotel, which is fortunate. We went first to the picture gallery to see Raphael's "Sistine Madonna." Words are unnecessary here. The room where it stands is not large, and is never empty during visiting hours. There are two sofas and a chair. These were filled when we went in, and after some time we secured seats, and sat gazing for a long time, and even that was too short, as it grows more beautiful the longer we stay. Then we went to see Murillo's "Madonna and Child,” Correggeo's "Holy Knight” and “Magdalen,” and Hoffman's “Christ Before the Doctors." To all these fine paintings we gave the time that is required to see their wonderful beauty, but were obliged to pass other beautiful paintings, as the doors close at i P. M. Mondays, and our time was up. The palace is also closed Mondays, so we went to the Green Vault Museum, which is under the palace on the ground floor, to see the crown jewels of Saxony. They are magnificent, the celebrated green diamond being among them. It is mounted with other large stones as a hat clasp. There were necklaces, brooches, earrings, pins, rings, and hair ornaments of all kinds of precious stones and designs, great, magnificent stones. In one case nearly all were rubies. I saw four large upright cases of these beautiful jewels. There were beautifully jeweled sword handles. In another room the walls and
were filled with rare curios, some handsome enameled and jeweled clocks. A large clock in a case was of gold and silver, rather conical in shape. There was a little crystal ball that ran round and round down a little incline till the bottom was reached, and then by some mysterious mechanism was sent back to the top with precision. Small enameled figures were on the clock in several places, that moved when the hour sounded. Another silver jeweled clock had the face flat on its top, the Roman numerals being in white enamel. The pendulum was a chain and ball of gold at one side of the clock. It was not running. There were enamels of all kinds, corals of all kinds, gold and silver plates, large and small, gold and silver tankards -in fact, curios of every kind and of rare value. We remained until 2 P. M., closing time. An old school friend of mine lives a short distance from the city, and whom I expected to call upon, but I feel too dilapidated to make the effort, as my hat, although it was freshened up in Amsterdam, is a forlorn-looking affair. I hope it will hold together until I reach Paris. I am trying to assist it by keeping it well covered with a veil.
We returned to our hotel and rested for a while, and then went for a drive along the River Elbe. This is a very pretty river. They have a fashionable promenade, called Bruhl Terrace. A fine view of the river is obtained here. We saw handsome business blocks, hotels, residences, etc. We then drove out to a beautiful park, Grosse Garten, and in a cafe and had ice cream and cake. It had been sprinkling rain on our drive, and while we were in here there was a hard thunder shower. After it passed we returned to our hotel.
Tuesday, July 19. We went out to see the palace at 9 A. M., at the time it was opened to visitors. We had been told there was not much to see. However, we were delighted with it, as everything was in such perfect harmony and excellent taste. It has not the gorgeous magnificence of the Berlin Palace, but is very lovely and attractive. The Tower Room is decorated on the sides nearly to the ceiling with Dresden and other fine china, the chandeliers being in Dresden china. We were nearly an hour in going through, and then went to the station and took the train for Nurenburg
It was pouring rain, which continued at intervals throughout the ride. A young German dandy got into the compartment with us. His footman put him on board with his luggage. He was faultlessly dressed and as dainty as any young girl in all his movements. He had beautiful white shapely hands, and on one of them, on the third and little fingers, he wore two handsome rings. It was very close in the compartment, and the windows could only be opened a little way, as the rain poured in. We all felt it, and he occasionally used a fan. He used his little pocket handglass frequently to see that his hair and small mustache were arranged to his satisfaction. His cheeks were so rosy that Gusty thinks some paint had been used, as they do that frequently over here. With it all, he was a perfect gentleman.
The scenery along the road was beautiful, though