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much of the time it was obscured by rain. Villages were numerous. Women work in the fields here, as well as men.

I saw numbers of goose-girls tending their flocks. We changed cars once, and fortunately it was not raining at the time, but it was pouring down when we arrived at Nurenburg. We drove just across the square from the station to the Grand Hotel.

Wednesday, June 20. We ordered a carriage and started out sightseeing directly after breakfast. As we got into our carriage, I saw the hotel porter hand our driver a list of places we wanted to see, and there was great merriment among the numerous porters and cabmen that were around the hotel. I found on our return the laugh was caused because our driver could not read. Poor fellow! And he was not a young man either. He was given to us because he had good carriage and horses and was a reliable man. We drove first around the old city's walls, seeing its numerous gates, towers and bridges, all very quaint and picturesque. There seems to have been a double wall, the outer one lower than the inner. There is a river and a mote. The river is very high, as it has rained for several weeks, so we were told, almost continuously. We went up to the castle, which is a queer old place, situated on a high rock, as usual. It is not occupied, though some of the state rooms are well kept. Five years ago the emperor and empress of Germany, in passing through Nuremburg, occupied it during the short time they were here. We were shown instruments of torture used in olden times. We went to the

tower room to see the Iron Maiden. It is a large iron case, shaped very like a woman, with a long cloak and hood, the masked face being like a woman's. It is hollow, with two hinged doors, opening in front, that fold back. Inside it is thickly studded with long, heavy sharp-pointed iron nails throughout. The poor victim was bound, pushed inside and the heavy doors closed on him, the huge nails piercing and killing him slowly. To make sure that he did die, or else for further cruelty, under this Iron Maiden was a furnace in which a fire was kindled and he was slowly roasted also. Horrible! On the floor below were cruel racks for stretching the human form, a cradle full of pointed nails, and so on through a long list of dreadful instruments. We were glad to leave here, and returned to our hotel.

After lunch we started out again, going to St. Lawrence Church. This has a lovely rose window in front. In the interior, carved in stone is the Ciborium, or receptical for the host, by Adam Kraft. We saw also the "Annunciation," carved in wood by Veit Stoss. Both of these are exquisite. From here we went to St. Sebaldas, where we saw the wonderful shrine of St. Sebaldas in bronze, by Peter Vischer and his sons. This church has a beautiful door, called the Bride's Door. At noon we drove to the Church of Our Lady, or St. Mary's Church, to hear the bells and see the old clock. It has the emperor and seven prince electors that file out on either side from doors that swing open on the hour; two trumpeters on the corners move the instruments, the emperor moves his arm and a little cupid up on a high corner fiddles away just as hard as he can. The figures march around three times, then go in, and the doors close.

We visited Germania Museum, which had once been an old church. We saw one very fine piece of work, a figure of the Virgin, carved in wood and painted. We saw handsome old German furniture and many beautifully carved pieces. From here we drove to the Rathaus, or town hall. In here are two fine halls, one above the other. In both of these were fine paintings of the famous men of Nuremburg, represented at their different professions and trades. The people of the town are justly proud of them. We visited Hirschvogel Salle. The hall is decorated in early renaissance style by Flotner, sixteenth century.

I had frequently heard of German stoves, but the first I saw was in the castle here, in which there are a number. They are made of tile, nearly square, quite tall, and seem to be built in sections, the larger being below. They stand on four feet, the firebox being in the center, with a box just below for ashes. Wood and kindling are used for a fire, but only a small quantity seems to be required to heat the stove and room, even though large, as they radiate heat finely, so I am told. I hope to know myself before I leave the land of them. The tiles are square, and every color seems to be used. Nuremburg is noted for its pretty fountains.

I saw one that was a little goose man, holding a goose under each arm, and water flows from the mouths of the geese. Another is an archer on a base surrounded by cupids who throw water upward. This fountain is in the Rathaus. Another is a little cupid standing on swans, and water flows from their beaks. These fountains are of wrought iron. The most elaborate and beautiful one stands opposite the old clock on the market place. It is tall, and elaborately carved in figures. We were now about ready to return to our hotel, having spent the afternoon sightseeing, so Gusty told our driver, but he drove on, purposely misunderstanding. He was so anxious we should see everything. He turned every few minutes to Gusty, pointing out different things and carefully explaining them to her in German, to which she would smile and reply, “Ya,” as if she fully understood, and which she did not. But the man was satisfied. No matter how hard Gusty urged him to take us to l'hotel, he invariably drove on. He was determined we should see all of Nuremburg. These German drivers have a most peculiar way of stopping their horses, but the horse minds instantly. They call out, "Br-r-r-r-r-r," with a long roll of the tongue, too funny for anything. Our driver was finally persuaded to take us back to the hotel. I told Gusty she had better give him a good tip, for I thought he had earned it.

HEIDELBERG

river on

We left Thursday, July 21, at 7 A. M., and had we not been just across from the station, we would have been left, as Gusty overslept and we had hard work to reach our train in time. We arrived at Heidelberg at noon, stopping at Hotel Metropole. After luncheon we called a carriage, driving over and around the city, up the hills by beautiful houses, then crossing the

a high bridge, coming down from the hills on the other side, and passing the little old inn where students fight their duels, as this is not allowed on their side of the river. We drove close along the river bank and finally recrossed on a ferry that was really an arch bridge on two scow boats. It was attached by heavy wires on either side of the stream and was worked by one man at a crank. This worked so easily that it did not seem the least effort for him. The whole thing moved slowly, and you did not realize you were moving at all, so before aware of it we had reached the opposite bank. I tried in vain to discover just how it was worked, but could not, but suppose the wires were on the river bed. Leaving the boat bridge, we drove up steep hills, seeing more beautiful country homes. Then to the castle, and around to the entrance, where we got out and went in. It is a grand old place, with handsome carvings on the court side, the exterior being plain and built for.defense and safety. Fine views of the city and Necker river are had from the numerous terraces. The

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