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greater part of this is a ruin, part having been restored, and an effort is now being made to complete it. Here in the court it was in gala dress, as the students had given a play for themselves, and that evening they were to repeat it for the benefit of the poor. Flags of the national and college colors were flying, festoons of green with electric lights of different colors made the old ruin a picture of beauty in the weird light of the dark afternoon, it having threatened rain all day. The wine cellars of this castle have always been celebrated. There are numbers of immense hogsheads in them. One is a monster, holding forty-nine thousand gallons of wine. There is a carved wooden figure in this room, said to be the court jester, Perkes, who used to drink eighteen quarts of wine daily. A jolly old woman seemed to have charge of the cellars. She told Gusty to go down and see a clock that is in one of the rooms. There was a ring hanging from it which, the woman told Gusty, if she would pull, it would strike. She did pull and it did strike, for the clock door opened and a fox's tail flew out and struck Gusty on the nose. It was a German joke, you see, and not a very pleasant one, either, as Gusty was quite startled by the suddenness of it. From here after making some purchases of souvenirs, etc., we drove back to our hotel to rest.
MAINZ RHINE TRIP
Friday, July 22. We left Heidelberg at 7:55 A. M. by train, changing cars four times in four and a half hours. Reaching Mainz at 10:30, we went direct to our steamer for our trip up the Rhine. The day was fine but a little warm for railroad travel, and we were glad to change from cars to steamer.
Great Britain and the continental officials can make you change cars more times and take you through more tunnels than Americans ever dreamed existed. In England you wonder how there can be so many tunnels. You seem to run into them and out on perfectly level ground apparently, and you have them on every road and in all directions.
The day being bright and sunny, we thought it would be an ideal one for our trip, but the wind came up just before we started and kept up till late in the afternoon, when it grew dark and a hard shower came on. It stopped, however, just before we reached Cologne. Nevertheless, we had a delightful ride up this beautiful river. In some things I was disappointed, while in others my expectations were fully realized. Its picturesque old castles on high hills, most of them in ruins, and its vineyards, are all my fancy pictured. The river widens and narrows all the way up. So much rain had fallen through this part of the country that all streams are greatly swollen and muddy, the Rhine being no exception, which, of course, detracts from its beauty. The weather kindly smiled on us as we slowly steamed up to our dock, giving us a fine view of the cathedral and city. We were hardly located in our hotel, however, before it rained harder than before. We had a little difficulty in getting located, as the hotels were full. We supposed our rooms had been reserved, at the Dom Hotel, as we had wired for them, and one had been reserved, but it was a double room, and we wanted single rooms. These we finally found at Hotel Metropole. It continued to storm and rain throughout the night.
Saturday, July 23. It was still raining, but it did not prevent our sightseeing. We drove first to the magnificent cathedral. This is in the Gothic style and of great height. Although commenced hundreds of years ago in the thirteenth century, it has only recently been completed. Two great towers rise from its front on either side of its tall doors. These towers are almost solidly carved in figures and in lacy patterns. On entering the cathedral its great height at once impresses you. In one of the chapels, of which there are a half-circle around the east end, is the granite figure of the first Bishop of the See. In another is a handsome bronze statue of the founder of the present cathedral. Both statues are in full canonical robes. We went into the treasury and saw the beautiful and costly church treasures kept there. The golden shrine of the three kings is a fine piece of work. On one side are the three crowns resting on the skulls of the kings. We saw handsomely embroidered robes, banners and rare old crucifixes, studded with precious stones. From here we went to the picture gallery in the museum to see a painting of the beautiful Queen Louise by the German artist, Richter. We saw also a number of other beautiful paintings in this gallery. From here we visited the great concert hall, where all the fine concerts are given. It is handsome, but nothing out of the ordinary, although our guide thought it was, and so did a number of Germans who were going through with us. After luncheon, we went to see St. Ursula's Church. We were taken directly into the church treasury. The skulls and bones of the ten thousand virgins who went with St. Ursula on her pilgrimage line the walls of this room. St. Ursula's bones are in shrines in different parts of the room. Legend says St. Ursula and her ten thousand maidens went on a pilgrimage to Rome. She was an English princess of Christian faith, her maidens being of both royal and noble birth. On her return here at Cologne they were attacked by pagan soldiers and martyred for their faith. We went from here to St. Gereon's Church. St. Gereon was captain of a legion of Roman soldiers. He and his men were martyred for their Christian faith under the Emperor Diocletian in the third century. This church is of peculiar construction, the original church being round. The choir was added at a little later period. This is reached by a long flight of steps. The decorations are beautiful and rich in coloring. It being Saturday afternoon, many children were at their devotions.
Leaving here, we drove to the Rathaus, but found we were too late to be admitted. We had been driving over rough cobble-stone streets, and being tired were quite ready to return to our rooms to rest. On our way back we passed a large white house with a tower on one side. It has the heads of two horses looking out of an upper window. Legend says this man's wife was very ill, and died of the plague prevailing in Cologne at that time, and was buried. As he sat mourning for her, she appeared in the door of the room. He believed this was an apparition. She insisted she was alive. He replied, he would sooner believe his horses could ascend the stairs to the tower than that she was a living being. Immediately the sound of horses coming up the stairs was heard and they were seen looking from that window. In commemoration, he had their heads made in stone.
In this country there are legends for everything and the devil is responsible for all wrongdoings.
Sunday, July 24. The day, as usual, has been one of rest and quiet, and we hope for a peaceful night.