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lower doors. There is a grand old abbey up here which was founded by the Benedictine Order, and is finely preserved. This mount is a great resort for artists, and gradually a little town has grown at its base. The night was weird, as it had rained during the day and looked as if a storm was brewing, but occasionally a glimpse of the moon was seen. The hotel is neat and clean, and has recently been rebuilt and refurnished with quite a pretty effect. All electric fixtures seemed complete, but I found it otherwise on coming up to my room after dinner, as I tried to turn on the lights and was still in the dark. I realized I should have to ask for candles.
Sunday, July 31. It was misting rain in the morning and I told Gusty I would not climb the mountain, even to see the abbey. She was greatly disappointed, as we had come for the express purpose of seeing it. I told her to go by all means. I was afraid of getting wet. She went down to the office and soon returned, saying she had engaged two sailors to carry me up the mountain, in a chair kept for that purpose in the hotel. So about 9:30 we commenced our climb. My chair was similar to an ordinary cane-seat armchair, only having two long handles coming out from the arms both front and back. These were grasped by each man, one in front, the other at the back, and both facing the mountain. My sailors were fine, strong men.
The younger had a good kind face and was a good-looking man. It was a hard, long climb, and I asked my men frequently if they did not want to rest, but they declined.' It was very steep, even before reaching the steps, and I never could have stood the walk at all. I created quite a sensation, as this chair is only used by invalids, and I am the picture of health. All the way to the steps are little shops on either side. Most of them have saleswomen. They would look at me in wonder. Added to this, a band of cornet players went up just ahead of our procession, playing nearly all the way. It looked as if they were leading us. This caused much merriment among shop people, and I joined in the laugh at my own expense, as it certainly was funny. We climbed up and up steep flights of steps, and now my men were obliged to make frequent stops. Even after reaching the abbey it was a continual climb; sometimes going down, as we went through cloister and crypt until we had seen it all. It is wonderful how strong it is, and yet has been standing for ages. The rock is conical and extends to the top. In fact, it is the mountain and seems truly to be the Rock of Ages. The abbey is built on its top and the old rock is seen in several parts of it through floors, etc. The abbey is three stories high and the views from every outlook are beautiful.
We remained here until 1:30 P. M., then took the little tramrail car, our motor meeting us at the mainland, and we resumed our trip. We passed through Pontorson, where a village fête was just forming for parade, so we stopped on the side of the road to watch it. This fête was showing the important events that had taken place in the little village since former years. The village people take part and go to much trouble to make it a success. Sunday is the chosen day, as people are at leisure then. They attend church or early mass, and afterward use their pleasure in spending the day. There were quite a number of floats, showing the industries of the place, that were very well produced in detail. Most of the participants being in full peasant dress—those taking part in the parade. The funmakers were a band of men, dressed to represent a wedding procession. They made great sport, dancing and so on. The bride was extremely tall. The clown laughed and cracked jokes with every one; with us also. The grand marshal of the fête was a tall, very fat, red-faced man, wearing Prince Albert coat, silk hat, white gloves, etc. He was very pompous, and looked as if he was a butcher by trade. The procession seemed to be formed in two sections, which I suppose joined somewhere in the village. We only saw the one.
The band filled the large band wagon to overflowing and a number of them had to walk. Two pretty girls dressed in modern style, evidently the elite of the village, with their young men, came to our car and presented a dainty box or basket that matched their gowns, and asked if we would help the poor of the town, which we did. They asked every one. This seems to be a part of the fête, that the poor shall not be forgotten while the rest are enjoying themselves.
We left here, motoring to Dinan, where we stopped at Hotel Bretagne for gouter. We saw here the ruins of an old chateau, beautifully located. An old tower is still standing in the town. We motored on through Lamballe, finally stopping at St. Brienc and Hotel d'Angleterre for the night.
In this country in nearly all hotels men act as both waiters and chambermaids. Such was the case here. He was pleasant, kind and obliging, anxious to please, but he was always out of breath, as he always ran up-stairs, and we are sure he fell down, as it sounded that way. The servants over here work from 5 o'clock in the morning till 11 o'clock at night, and their wages are very small.
Monday, August 1. Gaston having some work to do on the car, we took a carriage and drove over the village. There is very little of interest to see here, some few old buildings, yet our driver was so proud of his town that he insisted on showing new as well as old buildings. We left before noon, motoring on to Guingamp. We lunched here at Hotel de L'Onest. We saw the Church of Notre Dame, de Bon Secours (Pilgrim's Resort), also a very pretty fountain. We reached Morlaix in time for gouter at Grand Hotel de L'Europe. It was raining then, but we rode over the little town before leaving. We saw one very old house, well preserved, and still occupied. It is called Maison de la Reine Anne (Queen Anne's home). As we were looking at it, a maid appeared at an upper window, and Gaston remarked that the queen still lived there. We saw a wedding party on their way home. They always marry early in the morning, and then spend the day in merry-making, which sometimes lasts well into the night. This party was small and in full peasant costume. The bride and groom very solemnly led the way; three other couples followed, and an old woman bringing up in the rear wheeling a barrow, on which was a cradle, and this was filled with the wedding presents. I was glad I had the opportunity of seeing a wedding procession, having often read of them. We motored on to Brest, where we stopped for the night at Grand Hotel Modern.
This well-known city of France has a most beautiful harbor. As a usual thing, a fleet of gunboats, or the French squadron, are in the harbor, but they are all out now, except two. I should like to have seen them all, and we were disappointed, as it was the one thing that induced us to come here. It is the greatest French port. We saw numbers of sailors everywhere through the city. Gaston served his military term here, so is well acquainted with the place. It is uncleanly and its odors are equal to the old French quarter in New Orleans, U. S. A.
Tuesday, August 2. We left here, crossing the little