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river by ferry. This is similar to the one we saw in Heidelberg, only much larger.
The working men and boys here wear long blouses, some black, some dark blue. The boys' blouses are belted in; the men's are loose. We motored on to Plougastel. We stopped here to get postcards and see the Calvary. This is finely carved and shows different scenes from the Passion. It stands just back of an old and very plain church. Inside this church, however, are fine old carved altars in dark; rich wood. It is here they wear such beautiful peasant costumes, as the colors are so bright.
We motored from here to Chateaulin. There is a great difference between Normandy and Brittany, the former being under a high state of cultivation, while the latter is bleak and barren, with few exceptions. We took luncheon here at Hotel de l'Grand Maison. As we left we saw another wedding procession. They crossed the road just in front of us, going to the old church close by. There were only the bride and groom and two girl attendants. They were all dressed in full Breton costume, which is black velvet. The aprons, however, are long and of bright colored silks. Preceding the wedding procession were two men in costume, wearing pointed black hats with long black Velvet streamers hanging from the back. They played on bagpipes (or bignons). The tones are much sweeter than those of the Scotch bagpipes. A large party of friends were at the house and remained there, looking out at the wedding party. They all wore the long gay silk aprons.
One old Breton dame wore an elegant dark red velvet apron. From here we motored on to Douarnenaz, on the coast of Brittany. The bay here is beautiful, and it has a fine harbor. The sky and water are so blue that Gusty says it equals the Bay of Naples in loveliness. This is a fishing village and is noted for its fine sardines.
We left here and motored on to Quimper in time for gouter, which we had at Hotel de l'Epee (the Sword). We remained here for the night. The hotel is right on the river bank, the main street being between hotel and river. We had front rooms with a balcony on the second floor of the hotel, and it was very interesting to watch the crowd passing in the evening. I heard, as I supposed, numbers of horses constantly passing, but on looking out to see, discovered it was the clatter of many wooden shoes, which are almost universally worn throughout this part of the country. These sabots are often painted black and look like ordinary shoes, but the most of them are just as they are cut from the last. The children run, romp and play in them as freely as other children play in shoes. After we had located and refreshed ourselves, we took a carriage and drove through the old town. I found some lovely Breton caps here to add to my collection. Breton caps are universally worn by the women, each province having its own style. The cathedral is one of the finest in Brittany. This town was once surrounded by walls and parts of them still remain.
Wednesday, August 3. We resumed our trip to Concarnean. This is another famous fishing village, and again we saw the fishing boats come in and land, and the fishwives and maidens go down for their supply. Some came with baskets for the larger supply for sale, while others bought for their own use. The prevailing odor here is fish. The women wear broad bands of ribbon across the front of their caps. The younger ones wear colors, while the older wear black. The women in this country come together to do their washing in some pond, river, canal or brook. They kneel on stones, soak the article, rub with their hands or pound with stones or paddle on a stone, and then sway in the water back and forth repeatedly until clean. In some places on the river or canal bank there are regular washing houses built, the house extending into the water, being built up about the height of a woman's waist from the floor, and is open on the water side with a narrow shelf, so the arms can rest on it and the water can easily be reached. I saw all through Normandy and Brittany great pools of water with a low brick wall built only on three sides, the water looking of a dark green color. I supposed they were pools for ducks or geese, until one day, to my astonishment, I saw women washing clothes there and knew they were washing pools.
We motored through a number of quaint little towns, stopping at Lorient for luncheon. As we were leaving there we saw a company of soldiers marching away. It gives one a comfortable feeling to see them, for you know they are your protectors and you see them every where in Great Britain and on the continent. We motored from here to St. Anne d'Auray. Here is a great pilgrimage church and the annual pardon had occurred the week previous. We regretted being too late to see it, July 26, St. Anne's day, being pardon day. There are booths all around the large yard of the church, where medals and souvenirs are sold to pilgrims and visitors. They not only sell from booths but sell from trays brought to carriages and cars. I was amused at one man that tried so hard to catch my eye to attract attention to his wares. He would go from one side to the other of the limousine, and as he reached one side I would be looking out of the opposite window. He kept this up till we left, and I never gave him an opportunity to sell. Beggars are here galore. Their method of begging is peculiar, as they vie with each other in telling a pitiful plaint. Leaving here, we motored to Carnac, where we had gouter at Hotel de l’Plage (Beach Hotel) on the bay of Iniberon. This is one of the fine beaches of Brittany. We saw two gunboats at anchor off the coast. We also saw here the queer-shaped stones arranged in more or less regular rows or lines, left from the stone age. These are called the Lines of Carnac. We left here, motoring to Vannes for the night, stopping at Hotel du Commerce.