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the arms of his wife, Ann of Brittany. Leaving here, we passed more cliff houses and villages, saw the Chateau of Chaumont from the exterior as we passed. We motored on to Blois, stopping here for the night at Hotel d'Angleterre.

BLOIS

Monday, August 8. This morning we visited Blois Chateau. This has a beautiful facade, with an outside spiral staircase. The interior is magnificently decorated. There are some fine chimneypieces, having the arms of different kings on them. This chateau is full of historical interest.

Leaving Blois, we motored along, passing Chateau Chambord. This is a magnificent building, but we saw only its exterior. Numbers of these chateaus are not open to the public, while others are open only on certain days. We motored from here to Orleans, where we lunched at Hotel St. Aignan. We saw the exterior of the Town Hall, once the Royal Chateau, where Francis II died, and from which Mary Stuart, his widow, returned to Scotland. We saw the house in which Joan d'Arc lodged after her entrance into Orleans. We went to the Museum of Joan d'Arc, which is an old house. Here are many relics of the Maid of Orleans, also a statue of her.

CHARTRES

We resumed our trip, but stopped at a little farmhouse by the roadside and got some delicious milk, then motoring on to Chartres for the night, stopping at Hotel de Monarch. We saw the cathedral, with its beautiful south porch and exquisite stained glass.

Tuesday, August 9. When the little maid brought up my breakfast, there were two small jars on the tray. Gusty had ordered cream for me the night before. Cream is an extra delicacy in this country, being too valuable for everyday use. Consequently I was looked upon as a high and mighty personage, and as the maid put my tray on the table, she leaned toward me, her eyes very wide open, and whispered in a tragic voice, “C-r-a-i-m.” I looked after she had gone out, for my cream—but could not see it. Just two small jars of butter, as I supposed. They always use hot milk over here instead of cream, for coffee, so I took the hot milk. When Gusty appeared, she said:

"Well, Ontie, did you enjoy your cream?"

I replied I did not get any. Gusty was astonished, as she knew she had ordered it. Then I commenced telling her what had been on the tray, and mentioned the two tiny jars of butter. Gusty laughed heartily, and said:

"Why, Ontie, one of those jars was cream." And I laughed with her at the joke.

Leaving the hotel, we motored through the town to the old church of St. Pierre to see the beautiful enamels. There are twelve plaques, representing the twelve apostles. They were in one of the side chapels. The colors were lovely and delicate, and they are among the most famous of art treasures.

We stopped at Rambouillet for luncheon at Hotel de la Croix Blanche (the White Cross). On leaving we passed the Chateau Rambouillet, the summer home of the president of France. We motored through part of the forest belonging to the chateau, one of the most noted forests of France. We went on to Versailles, where we stopped for gouter at the Trinon Palace Hotel, recently erected, and is a fashionable Parisian resort. Leaving here, we passed through St. Cloud (San Clu). This was once famous for its chateau, which was burned during the siege of Paris in the Franco-Prussian war.

PARIS

We crossed the Seine not far from here, motoring through the Bois-de-Boulogne, the great park of Paris, then on around the Arc de Triomphe, down the Champs Elysee to Hotel du Jardin, where we stopped before.

Wednesday, August 10. We called a carriage and drove direct to the American Express office for our mail and to replenish my depleted pocketbook. From here we drove to the Garage de Messiene to see Mr. Millet and settle my bill for the completed motor trip.

I am so delighted with this most perfect mode of travel, as well as most comfortable, that I have decided -if satisfactory arrangements can be made, to finish my entire trip by motor.

We have made this trip with few delays, no accidents, and with the loss of only one tire.

Mr. Millet was not at the garage, but we made an appointment for him to see us at the hotel this evening.

We drove from here to the Louvre, once the palace of the French kings, now a museum.

We went into the picture gallery and into the room said to hold the gems of the collection. We saw the famous “Mona Lisa” by Da Vinci, the “St. Michael” of Raphael, the "Little Princess Marguerite" of Valesquez. Going from here through the long gallery, seeing paintings by many different artists of note, among them Murillo's exquisite "Immaculate Conception.” We went into the Rubens gallery, which is lined with magnificent paintings by this artist. From here we returned through the long gallery, going into one of the rooms to see works by some of the French artists. Carot's are among the finest here. Then on into another room to see portraits. In here we saw "Madame Vigee Le Brum and Her Daughter," painted by herself. In another room we saw “Madame Recamier," the noted beauty, and who was a very lovely woman. We saw also the great picture, “Coronation of Napoleon.” From here we went to the Galerie de Apollon. It takes its name from the fine painting of Apollo in the center of the ceiling. Along both sides and center of this galerie are cases containing rare

works of art. In one of them are what few remain of the crown jewels of France.

NOTRE DAME CATHEDRAL

We returned to the hotel for luncheon, and after resting a while called a carriage and drove to Notre Dame Cathedral (Our Lady). This is one of the earliest built of Gothic cathedrals, having been commenced in 1163. It has a magnificent west front, with large recess doors. The one on the left is dedicated to our lady, and over it is a fine sculptured relief, showing her death. At one side of this door, among the figures, is that of St. Dennis, holding his severed head in his hands. · On the other side of the door is a figure of St. Genevieve, the patron saint of Paris. There is a little imp leaning over her shoulder, trying to blow out a lighted candle, which she holds in her hands. The interior is very fine, but gives the impression of being both cold and barren. When it was restored its beautiful tombs and sculptures were not replaced. There are two most exquisitely beautiful rose windows in each end of the trancept, more lovely, I think, than any I have seen.

Notre Dame stands on an island in the Seine, called Isle de la Cite (Island of the City). The city of Paris was commenced on this island. On the site of Notre Dame, there has always been a temple or Christian church. This island and several smaller ones near it were first inhabited by a tribe of Gauls, called Parisii. Hence the name of Paris.

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