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We drove from here to the Palais de Justice. This site was formerly occupied by a palace, first by the Romans, then the early French kings. After its destruction, the present building was erected for the law courts. In here we saw the French lawyers, moving hastily about from place to place. They were in gowns, but not wigs. In England the lawyers wear both gowns and wigs. From here we went into the St. Chappelle, a beautiful chapel, and all that remains of the old palace. This chapel was built by St. Louis (Louis IX) as a shrine for the Crown of Thorns. This relic he had purchased from the Emperor Baldwin of Constantinople, at a great price. The chapel is in two parts, upper and lower, the upper consisting almost entirely of beautiful stained glass, and is called by the French, Bijou de Paris (the jewel of Paris). On leaving here, we passed the conciergerie (the old prison), now a part of the Palais de Justice. The entrance is between two old towers that front the Seine river. Marie Antoinette was taken here just before her execution.

We stopped on our way back at the coiffeur's, as I wanted a shampoo. Gusty remained with me, as the man did not speak English and I no French. He is expert in his art and expeditious also, and in a short time he had given me a delightful shampoo. From here we returned to our hotel.

After dinner Mr. Millet called, and we consulted together, finally completing, verbally, arrangements for our second motor trip.

Thursday, August 11. My limousine and Gaston came for me, and the day was spent in shopping, going to Draicol's, where I saw the living models and chose the style of suit I wanted and ordered it. We lunched at Henry's. Everything is so good here, and I would like lunch here every day. I returned late in the afternoon to our hotel.

Friday, August 12. To-day we also spent in shopping, and we lunched at the very fashionable restaurant, Armenouville, in the Bois de Boulogne.


Saturday, August 13. We left by motor early with three friends for a day at Fontainebleau. We arrived about noon and lunched at the Savoy Hotel, and had a fine luncheon. Afterward we visited the Chateau of Fontainebleau. This is one of the finest renaissance chateaux in France and was once the residence of the French kings, but is now a national museum. We saw room after room of beautiful tapestries, furniture

and rugs.

We were taken through the state apartments of Napoleon, which are all of magnificent appointments. Among his relics is the desk on which he signed his abdication; also the cradle of the king of Rome (L'Aiglon). We were anxious to visit Napoleon's private apartments, and Augusta sent her visiting card by our guide, she being a resident of Paris at the time, and we

were admitted. These apartments are in marked contrast to those of state, the latter having been restored to their beautiful elegance, while the private apartments remain as when vacated by Napoleon. We saw the bedrooms of Josephine, that of Madame Mother (Napoleon's mother) and that of Napoleon; also his study, with open maps on his desk.

The handsome hangings all through these rooms were dust-covered and faded.

We left the chateau and motored through the forests of fine old trees of all kinds. We stopped at the little village of Barbizon; at Hotel Charmattes for gouter. This little village has been the home of many French artists. From here we returned to Paris, having enjoyed a most delightful day.


Sunday, August 14th. Gusty slept late this morning, as there was nothing to worry her. I had made an appointment with Miss Fisher to visit the Rag Fair, one of the sights of Paris. It is held every Sunday morning in the Marche au Temple. It begins at a very early hour and stops promptly at noon, which is announced by a bell. They commence about a quarter of an hour before twelve, packing up and getting ready to leave, as they are not allowed to remain after the bell sounds.

This market was erected on the site of the old temple built by the Knights Templar, and the temple was the prison of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, his wife, and their children.

In the evening while we were sitting chatting, suddenly Gusty rose and went quickly out on the balcony, then called :

“Ontie, come quick!"

When I reached there, she said, “Listen!" And hearing a very queer sound, I asked what it was. She said, “There is a fire."

There are no bells on the engines, but the men keep up a cry in unison, that sounds exactly like a donkey braying. This was quite a coincidence, as Gusty had hardly finished telling me, “They have very few fires in Paris.” I think every time I was in the city, however, I heard one or two of these alarms.

Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday, August 15, 16 and 17, we spent in shopping, packing and completing preparations for our motor trip.

Monday evening we went to the Grand Opera House and heard the opera "Faust." This beautiful building has been so universally described that comments are unnecessary.


Thursday, August 18. We packed our implements of travel (not torture) in our motor, and at 9:30 A. M. started on our trip. Our car is a fine Panhard limousine (764-E8). This is the same stanch little car, and Gaston our same reliable chauffeur, that we had on our first trip. This time our car had a large letter F on its back, as we were going out of France. From now on Gaston used to look after the cars as they passed us, and if they had G B, or I, letters on the back, he would look pleased; if the letter was F, he beamed, but if it was A he had a very blank look.

Leaving Paris, we motored through one of the east gates and through the Bois de Vincennes. The morning was fine, and so were our spirits, as we all thoroughly enjoy motoring. We arrived at Coulommiers for luncheon. This is a poor country hotel, with no conveniences. We waited so long before being served that it made us late in starting, but after once more getting on our road we had a delightful afternoon till about 5 o'clock, when the car commenced acting queerly. It occurred on the brow of a hill, with a little village nestling at its foot. Knowing it would be a half hour or longer before Gaston would be ready to start, we walked down the hill and through the little village, trying to find a hotel where we could rest until our car arrived. This walk was much longer than we expected, and we were quite tired before we found the little inn; but it was a haven of rest for us. taken up-stairs to their best room, where I found a fairly comfortable chair. Gusty was restless and presently said, "I think I will walk back and meet Gaston, he is so long, and may pass here without knowing where to find us." So she started. As she reached the turn of the main road, Gaston drove up, and, see

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