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ferent from others we have visited. The pulpit is of stone, magnificently carved.
I saw on the streets this morning peasant woman and children in full Alsatian costume. They have the Alsatian black bow, which is immense. A small cap fits the head closely, and this immense black bow, with streamers, comes from the back of the cap far enough up to be seen from the front. The cap is black velvet, and jackets match, they are handsomely embroidered in gold braid. This is a strikingly pretty costume.
I saw the blue Alsatian Mountains in the distance.
We returned to the hotel for déjeuner, and then resumed our trip. The way out from the city is so complicated that we could not understand the directions, so secured one of the German waiters for a guide. He told us he was in San Francisco at the time of the earthquake and fire, at the Palace Hotel, and he and his chef were imprisoned for several hours in the ruins before they were rescued.
Before leaving Strasburg we went into the Church of St. Thomas to see the monument of Marshal Saxe. This is very weird in conception. Just a short distance after leaving our guide and the city, we drove by a little old church with an extremely high peaked roof and a high, square chimney at its side. And, looking almost as large as the church, was a huge stork's nest. We had a good view of it as we passed. Strasburg makes all that is possible out of her storks, as you see them on everything that is offered for sale, both storks and their nests.
BLACK FOREST, TRIBERG
Not very long after leaving Strasburg, we entered the Black Forest, climbing constantly higher and higher, through this dense forest, which casts a cool black shade. Hence its name. This is another beautiful ride, and there were lovely views on all sides. The air is so pure and filled with pine fragrance. We reached Triberg about 6:30 P. M. This is a lovely little mountain village. We had some difficulty in finding the hotel, as we were directed wrong, but finally succeeded, and were comfortably located at the Schwarzwald Hotel (Black Forest Hotel). This is on a high bluff above the village. The night was beautiful and clear, though quite warm and close, but before retiring I heard thunder, and a heavy storm came on with a pouring rain that continued most of the night.
Monday, August 22. I found on rising this morning it was still raining. I am sorry, as I had hoped to walk over a little bridge near the hotel to see a pretty waterfall. Gusty saw it, but I was afraid to venture in the rain. We left here about 9:00 A. M., expecting to reach Basel that afternoon, but alas ! our mishaps commenced. We were scarcely out of Triberg before our car commenced giving trouble. Gaston was unable to find out what was the cause of it. He is always so pleasant and happy, but he now commenced to have a worried look at times. He was obliged to make frequent stops to examine the car and try to fix it. It rained in hard showers all day, and sometimes he was obliged to be out in the rain. We expected to take déjeuner at Frieburg, but the frequent stops and delays decided us to stop a few miles this side at Waldkirche, Hotel Lowen (Lion). Our car was too tall to drive through the front arch of the hotel, so we had to go round on the next street and in at the back entrance. It was pouring a deluge of rain all this time, but we managed to get into the hotel without getting wet. We were taken up-stairs to a bedroom, where we made ourselves comfortable, and then dinner was served in a large dining room on this same floor. These country hotels are all very peculiar. We were the only guests, and the meal was fairly good. It still contained raining for a while, and then it dropped into showers. We remained long enough to give Gaston time to look over and fix his car, and then started once more.
Gaston said he thought we had better go on to Frieburg and remain over night, as this would give him opportunity to replace some piece of machinery that had broken. It was not far away, and we soon arrived, stopping at Hotel Sommer.
We located and rested for a while, then, as it had cleared and the sun was shining brightly, we called a carriage and drove over the town. We went to the cathedral and saw another very handsome carved stone pulpit, and a carved stone screen that supported the organ gallery. We drove by the old town gate. Many of the roofs here are of bright tiling. Here we saw the German tile stoves again. I would like to own one, for they are so comfortable. They must be perfectly safe, as they are always put directly against a wall. We would not dare to do that with our stoves of any kind, for the house would be in danger of burning. The tiles do not get so hot as sheet iron or iron. We saw fountains here and several small, but pretty parks. The water supply for most of these towns and villages is brought down from the mountains by large ditches that flow through the town, and the water ripples through them bright and sparkling. We drove back to the hotel from here and had hardly reached it before the rain commenced again. Gaston came in the evening to tell us he would have to work all the next day on the car, but he felt certain it would be finished and we could start by 4 o'clock.
Tuesday, August 23. We spent the day resting, doing a little necessary repairing and reading, but were all ready to leave by 4 o'clock. It was 5 o'clock, though, before Gaston came. Then we packed in and started. Gaston remarked:
“The car will work fine now.”
We had only motored a few miles when a tire burst. This was replaced and we were again moving, when another burst. This was also replaced, and again we started, when an inner tire, or lining, burst. This seemed to be the last straw for poor Gaston, and he threw up his hands, clearly discouraged. However, he went bravely to work and finally had it in place. The lamps were lighted, and once more we started for Basel. Soon we heard a snap and stopped to ascertain the cause. This time a chain had broken. Gaston fixed it up some way till we could reach Basel. It was night by this time, and a dark one. We were obliged to stop frequently to inquire our way, as we were traveling entirely by maps and books. We did not feel very cheerful, being strangers in a strange land, and not one of us could speak German, at least only a few words, scarcely enough to make our wants known. Every person we met and every little hamlet or village we passed through, we would sing out "Basel," and they would nod and point out the way. Besides, the car was constantly giving Gaston trouble and he could not find out the cause. The motor was all right and worked finely. Had anything happened to it, I think we would all have given up in despair. Gaston was not only worried about his car, but about us, as he had promised madame (me) to get her into Basel before dark, and it was late now and growing later every minute and we were still far away from our destination. Augusta and I both had to encourage Gaston; we crawled along, stopping at small villages to make inquiries, and creating a sensation every time. After numerous delays, we at last sighted Basel, and soon reached it and the custom office, where we stopped for Gaston to hand in his papers and the car's.