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dark brown, some extending from the house nearly to the ground. Nearly all houses have porches and balconies. Under these porches wood is stacked up to the steps. Some of the houses are prettily carved. Some are painted in odd designs. The extension of the roof protects the houses from sun and snow. The chalets on mountain sides have large boulders at intervals on the roofs.
We arrived at Lucerne about 6 o'clock, stopping at Hotel National. We had a beautiful little suite of rooms with private entry, the bath being situated at one side. Just outside my bedroom was a balcony, running across the house. This commands a fine view of Lake Lucerne. We are high up in the hotel, as it is full, and these were the only rooms we could secure. Ι
suppose we were fortunate to get even these. They call this the fourth floor, but I know it is the sixth. The floors here remind me of the streets of Philadelphia. Between each street name is a numbered street. Consequently, when you start to walk four squares, you walk eight; so with the floors here. This is supposed to be the fourth, while I feel sure it is the sixth. We have decided not to go up Rigi, as our time is limited and we have had so many delays. It is uncertain even if we did make the climb whether we would find it clear or cloudy. After dinner, which we had sent up to our rooms, we retired-at least Gusty did, as she was not feeling very well, and we expected to take an early breakfast, as we wanted to do a little shopping before time to resume our travels. I wrote some post-cards and then took up my notes and kept at them until I had brought them up to date. Just as I was getting ready to retire, there came a sharp rap on my door. It was exactly the way Gusty raps, so I called out, “Gusty!" but received no reply. I was frightened, but put out the light and got under my bed covers. · It was some time before I felt quiet enough to sleep.
Saturday, August 27. We both feel refreshed and bright this morning. It seems Gusty heard the rap also, and for a few minutes thought I had rapped, till she remembered that I never leave my room when once in it for the night. It was probably the night watchman, as I found the light in our private entry had been turned off, and I had left it burning. There was no bolt on the door to our private hall, or he could not have gotten in. I suppose it was against the rules to leave the light burning. It was still raining. However, we had our breakfast, then called a carriage and started shopping. It was nearly 10 o'clock, and we were obliged to start promptly at II o'clock on our trip, in order to get over a certain portion of the road before noon, motors being forbidden there after that hour. This was a very short time in which to make purchases, but we found what we wanted and returned in time to put them in my suitcase. In doing so I discovered a half dozen handkerchiefs that I had purchased and paid for were not in the package. This, of course,
obliged us to stop at the store to get them. We finished packing, had our things put in the motor and drove to the store. The woman was not at all desirous of making good, but finally gave us the same ones I had selected, and we started, but this delay caused us to miss the "Lion of Lucerne," which I was especially anxious to
I was glad, however, I did have a little view of Lucerne, as we motored in last evening.
After crossing the river on a modern bridge, I saw higher up the old covered bridge; also saw the cathedral, with its two sharp pointed spires; and the promenade along the lake. It must be lovely in pleasant weather, for it was attractive-looking, even in the rain.
On a great many roads in both Germany and Switzerland motors are not allowed. On this road on Lake Lucerne they are forbidden after 12 o'clock noon every day, and are not allowed at all on Sunday. The ride around the lake was most beautiful, and we succeeded in making it on time with a very few minutes to spare. It was so close to the time limit that I saw the man look at the clock before we were allowed to drive on.
We had déjeuner at the Park Hotel, Vitznau. The manager told us at the time of the flood in Oberammergau the water in Lake Lucerne rose up over a foot, something never before known. He said the water was half up the lawn.
At Hotel National, Lucerne, where we stopped, there is a flight of six or eight steps up to the office floor. The water covered these steps, and they could go from the office floor into a boat. We drove from here along Lake Zug, through the town of Zug to Zurich. We arrived here late Saturday evening, after a long but beautiful drive. As we were rounding Lake Zug, three men, evidently of the working class, stood talking on one side of the road, and as we passed them one shook his fist at us, saying something we did not understand. I do not know what caused him to do it. Possibly mud had been thrown from the motor on him, as the road was in a frightfully muddy state from long weeks of rain. The road was narrow and ran quite close to the lake. We stopped in Zurich at Hotel Bellevue, and had handsome rooms, fronting the lake.
Sunday, August 28. This is a city of churches, and the bells commenced early in the day to peel forth the summons to the different places of worship. About 9:30 we took a carriage, driving first to call on the consul-general and Mrs. Mansfield. They were out motoring and we missed them. We had great difficulty in making the maid understand what we wanted. Then we drove over the city. This is a handsome, modern city, but, like most large cities, there is nothing of unusual interest to see. Their museum is quite handsome and different from any building of its kind I have seen. We drove to the terrace on the lake, and from it we had a fine view of the Alps. Since coming into the Alps country, we have watched for the beautiful afterglow, but so far have not seen it. We returned to the hotel for déjeuner and left at i o'clock, motoring along Lake Zurich and then along the Walen See nearly all afternoon. It was a charming ride, both lake and sky so blue, and the mountains dark and hazy.
We reached Ragatz about 7:30, stopping at the Ragatshof. This is a rambling old hotel, but beautifully kept. Our dinner to-night was almost like a home meal, and very little like hotel cooking. We expected to arrive here earlier, but a tire burst and that always means a half-hour's delay. Ragatz is a delightful health resort, the water is so pure, and the mountain air filled with fragrance of the pines. It is located in a valley surrounded with mountains, and many English people come here year after year.
Monday, August 29, we left at 9 A. M. Our ride was a long one, as our destination was Innsbruck. Not
very long after leaving Ragatz we crossed the Austrian frontier and passed the customs at a little town called Buchs. We motored on to Bludenz, stopping there for déjeuner at the Bludenzerhof, then motored on our way, passing through numerous old villages, seeing old castles perched high on mountain sides, and about the middle of the afternoon we crossed Arlburg Pass. This has been another beautiful ride, especially as it was so varied in scenery.