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Friday, September 2. We had an early breakfast, then arranged for a guide, called a landau, and started sightseeing. Gaston had work to do on the car, as is usual after a long day's run. Our guide was a fine, portly old gentleman who spoke English brokenly. He is well known and seems to know every one and to be a favorite. He told us he had been railway guide and interpreter to royalty and nobility all his life, and had traveled everywhere. He was very entertaining, and showed us the most interesting places and things in Vienna. We drove to the bank, where our mail had been forwarded, and also to get some Austrian money.
From here we went to the Dom (cathedral) of St. Stephen's. The stained glass is fine and the building handsome. We drove from here to the Capuchin Church to see the imperial vaults in the crypt. We saw L’Aiglon's tomb, the tomb of his mother, Mary Louise, and that of his grandfather, Francis 1. A bunch of violets was on L'Aiglon's tomb. They were his favorite flower. Mr. Winanas, our guide, told us a number of incidents of L'Aiglon's life. One most typical of the child was: He was walking one day in the beautiful gardens, chopping off the heads of all the flowers with his little sword. The guard asked what he was doing that for? He replied, "That is the way I will take off the heads of all
my father's enemies when I am a man.” From here we drove to the Royal Theater. This is handsome in its white and gold decorations and rich red velvet upholstery. We saw the boxes of the emperor, both state and private. He is fond of the theater and attends frequently. The guide invited me to sit in the emperor's chair, but I declined. We also saw the Royal Opera House. From here we returned to the hotel for luncheon and to open our mail.
I found a cablegram wired to me from Paris, telling me of my aunt's death. This is not unexpected, but she was so much better when I left, I thought she would be spared to us a few years longer. The cable says not to return home, as all are well and I could do nothing. I suppose the most sensible thing for me will be to finish my trip, as it is over half completed. But the keen pleasure I have enjoyed is now gone. I doubt if I could secure a passage back at this time, as everything is taken, and it is best to wait for my own date.
It misted rain all day, but after luncheon we called a landau and started again with our guide, going out to the Palace of Schonbrunn. This is magnificent, as are also the grounds. When Napoleon stepped on the balcony of the palace, after taking possession, he gazed on this beautiful view and said: "I would give all of Paris if I could take this beauty back with me.” We saw L’Aiglon's room and where he died. Mr. Winanas said the people around L’Aiglon had killed him by neglect, because they did not want him to live, as he was like his father. The child was very delicate, his lungs weak, and he was encouraged to do everything that would injure him. Finally their efforts were suiccessful.
On returning from Schonbrunn, we went to the picture gallery in the Imperial Museum. We saw some of Titian's portraits, also works of Velasquez's, Van Dyke's, Holbeiss's, and very fine portraits of artists from all countries.
From here we drove over the city, saw the Hofberg (palace). Part of this is old and part, of the eighteenth century. We passed the great university and the Rathaus. This is a fine modern building; saw the handsome Votive Kirche (church) which was erected in memory of the Emperor Francis Joseph's escape from assassination.
This is a beautiful city, and I should like to spend some time here, but can not. We drove down to the shops, making a few purchases, and then back to the hotel.
Saturday, September 3, we started at 9:30 in a pouring rain, which greatly impeded our way, the roads being too heavy with mud and water to allow making good time. The rain continued in showers, though the sun tried hard to shine at times.
Our drive was full of interest, as the country and the mountains are beautiful, though obscured a great deal of the time by rain.
We stopped at St. Polten for lunch, at Hotel Pittner, and then resumed our trip. The road now ran for a time along the (blue) Danube river.' We came across a motor in distress. They were Vienna people, and had been motoring for two weeks in the Tyrol, meeting with no mishap until arriving within a few miles of home.
Their tires commenced breaking, and when the last one was on the pump broke. Their chauffeur mended it, but it broke again, and that finished it, as it could not be repaired.
The gentlemen of the party had gone on a pump hunt. Gaston, as usual, asked if they needed assistance, and, learning the trouble, loaned our pump and helped the chauffeur. The ladies were delighted to see us, I assure you. They came over to our limousine and chatted with Gusty in French. I looked my thinks, but could not say a word. We left the ladies, finally, quite comfortable. The gentlemen evidently did not succeed in their quest, as we met them returning empty-handed.
The sun finally succeeded in shining late in the after
We arrived in Linz, and were thankful to be there, Gusty having been afraid we could not make it, telling Gaston so. But I saw a determined look on his face, and I knew it meant Linz, if it was a possible thing. We stopped at Hotel Erzherzog Carl on the Danube.
The sun shone long enough to permit our reaching the hotel, and then the rain came down in a deluge, accompanied by thunder and lightning, with hail, which brought cool weather.
Sunday, September 4. We left here at 11 o'clock. The scenery is about the same we had yesterday. We stopped for déjeuner at Vocklabruck, at an old and primitive hotel, had a plain but good meal, and for dessert, the delicious Austrian cake. Gaston thought the meal was fine. After we started, he turned with a funny look on his face, saying he had just discovered we had gone to the wrong hotel, as he had seen the one where we intended stopping close by.
We motored on to Salzburg, and stopped at Hotel de l'Europe. As soon as we had located and made ourselves presentable, Gaston came for us with the car, and, taking a bellboy from the hotel for a guide, we went out to see the city and vicinity. This is a beautiful old and remarkably pretty city, with very queer old landmarks. It was the birthplace of Mozart, and was his home. A river separates the old town from the new. Mozart's birthplace is in Old Town, and his home in the new. The New Town is an old town also.
We had beautiful views on our drive, saw a fine old castle, up on a high rock, which was not accessible to carriages, but is reached by an inclined railway that is almost perpendicular.
Lovely villas are numerous on the high points here. There is an old monastery also.
From the city we motored out to Hellbrunn, the imperial palace. The grounds around it are lovely and the drive to it is through a grove of beautiful trees that arch overhead. In returning to the town we saw the