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cathedral, the burying ground of St. Peter, and the gardens and park.
Monday, September 5, we left at 9:30 A. M., starting for Munich. It was very wet and must have rained during the night. We were going finely, when Gaston discovered we had taken the wrong road. We retraced our drive, and found the right one, but we had lost time in doing this. The wind was high and it rained at intervals the entire morning.
We crossed the frontier of Germany into Bavaria and passed the customs examination without difficulty. We stopped at Traunstein, Hotel Wiespauer, for déjeuner. We started soon after, motored along, seeing the Bavarian Alps. Just as we reached Munich, a tire burst, and it was half an hour before we could go on. Finally reaching the city, we went to Hotel Bayerischer Hof.
Tuesday, September 6. We had an early breakfast and started out for a drive through Munich, going first to see about Oberammergau tickets, and secure lodgings for Gaston and the car. It took a long time to do this, as we had to wait on different men at the ticket office. Then the tickets had to be purchased and stamped. This is where red tape is measured by the yard. There was a window for everything, you had to wait your turn to get there, and wait for the man io turn to you. Possibly the enormous amount of red tape used accounts for the excellent manner in which the people are cared for. It is hardly possible to get lost, as signs are placed everywhere, giving full directions just how to go. In the theaters there are guards at every door, and during a performance they step inside and close the doors. In case of danger the guards throw the doors open promptly. The protection given the public over here is a constant source of gratification to me. If this was given as freely in our own country, we would have fewer holocausts and terrible accidents. Here every railway crossing has its guard, whether in town or country. Gates are at all crossings, and ten minutes before a train is due they are lowered, and woe to the man who attempts to force a crossing after they are down. A club is used freely if there is no other way of stopping him. Many women are gatekeepers or guards. A number of times the guards have raised the gates to allow us to cross, but it was only when they had just been lowered and they knew we were travelers. The porters in this country wear green vests and aprons reaching about to the knees, and no coats. The head porter, who is next in authority to the manager, wears a long dark blue coat with gilt buttons and a dark blue cap to match. In England he is gorgeous in red coat and gilt braid.
Caps are worn here by women and children. They are of black silk and fit the head closely. The girls wear immense bows to match, at the lower part of the neck, and elderly women wear yards and yards of loops that are sometimes fringed on the ends.
We drove to the court church of St. Michael's to see the tomb of Prince Eugene, the son of Josephine. We did not see it, however, as there was service, and the church was well filled. We sat a few minutes in the back of the church, and in a seat in front of us saw a
woman in the costume of the country, evidently sightseeing, like ourselves. She wore a black skirt-I suppose a black waist, but it was covered so I could not
Her apron, which almost covered her, was very handsome, being of white and gold silk brocade. She wore an ordinary silk shawl over the waist, and her hat was a tiny, round, black affair, something like our sailor hats. She had a bow at the back of her neck, not very large, but the ends fell to the bottom of her skirt. It was a black velvet ribbon an eighth of a yard wide. From the court church we drove to the picture gallery (Alte Pinakothek). We saw here a splendid collection of pictures. Among the many fine ones were two by Albrecht Durer, the German artist. They represented St. Paul with St. Mark, and St. Peter with St. John. We drove from here through the city, passing the palace, which is the residence of the prince regent of Bavaria.
The king, though living, is insane. All through this country are wonderful palaces that were built by this king before he was put into confinement. He is called the Mad King
We passed through a number of the public squares, or platz, as the Germans call them. We saw the old and new Rathaus, the new being a handsome modern building in the old style.
We took a short drive to the English Garden, a beautiful park with fine old trees. Our driver put us much in mind of the one we had in Nuremberg, as he was determined we should see all the sights.
Their breweries are noted, as are their vast cellars. We did not visit them, as I am constitutionally opposed to going underground before my time arrives. We caught a whiff of them as we passed by. In the late afternoon, we went out to the Prince Regent's Theater to hear Wagner's opera "Die Feen" (The Fairies). The play begins at 5 o'clock and ends at 9 P. M. beautiful, but somewhat of a disappointment, as it is solemn, instead of light and airy, as the name would imply. While here we met Mr. and Mrs. James Gavin, from home, and it seemed good to see faces that I knew. Mrs. Gavin is even prettier than before her marriage. Mr. Gavin has grown stout, and he is a tall man. I did not recognize him at first.
Returning to our hotel, we followed the custom and ordered a late evening meal.
We left Munich at 10 A. M. Wednesday, September 7. It threatened rain, but our morning ride was comfortable, though we saw nothing of especial interest. We stopped for lunch at Wilheim, Hotel Brauwastle, then started again, and the sun now commenced shining. The scenery, as we drew near Oberammergau, was very beautiful. The high wooded mountains were all around us, some snow-capped, others in clouds. On one side we rode at their base. Every little while a deep ravine disclosed a lovely cascade, running down the center, from its source high up in the mountains.