VENICE

Late as the hour was, the train was pac seat was filled, so we used our suitcases f riving in Venice, we had a great time to fi take our luggage to a gondola, but at last who seated us and put our luggage on 1 we commenced to glide along the dark ing canal.

It was quite weird at that late hour. reached the grand canal, the scene chan were occasional lights. We glided along to Hotel Britannia (Palazzo Tiepolo). A be of rooms had been reserved for us her ing the Grand Canal. It was after midnig dined, but we felt the need of the meal, and I A. M. before we were finally retired for th

Monday, September 12. We started sigh not very early, going to St. Mark's Cath This very magnificent old cathedral is built zantine style of architecture. The roof co series of domes, and the interior is faced w and beautiful marbles. The name of Byza changed to Constantinople when Constantin made it the capital of the eastern Roman Em saics are used for exterior decoration also. two altars in St. Mark's. The first is of g enameled and studded with gems. The wo represents scenes from the Bible. Directly

this high altar is a second. This has four columns. Two are of alabaster.

You can spend days in this grand old place and always find something new and beautiful. It is lovely at dusk, when the dying day brings you into close communion with yourself and you offer up penitential prayers which bring a peace and calm that is everhelpful.

From here we went to see the pigeons that live in great numbers about St. Mark's and are very tame, flying near and alighting on you when you feed them. They are great pets, and are fed constantly by visitors. They took grain from my fingers, and I saw them circle and alight on the shoulders of several people.

The government used to care for and feed them, the firing of the noon gun being their signal for feeding time. This has not been done for several years, as they are so well and constantly fed by the visiting people, yet they have not forgotten, for when the gun is fired at noon they still flock and fly to the plaza from all directions.

We saw the lower part of the Campanile which is being rebuilt to replace the old one that had fallen.

We returned to our hotel for luncheon and spent the early afternoon in shopping and looking at the beautiful things. At 4 o'clock we went to the Cafe Florian on the plazza and had tea and ice. The Venice of to-day is vastly different from that of days gone by.

The Grand Canal is truly grand at all times, and at

night it is fairyland, with its wealth of twi on every side. It is dotted with number lights on the gondolas, while charming Ve floats on the air and draws you to join gondolas that crowd closely together arou decorated music barges filled with pretty, Venetian girls, who sing the alluring and music of the country as no others can. of poetry and passion. Other gondolas, Venetians and visitors like myself and frie close together up to the music barges. The dreds of them. After singing and playing pieces, a young man steps from the music then from one to another of the barges money. The music is then resumed. This far into the night, and is a nightly occurren little timid about trusting myself on the car night, but once started and in position, I c be persuaded to leave, I was so entranced. come over that evening to settle up the e count, this being partly ours after leaving Gusty attended to it every two or three e told her to tell Gaston after the business transacted, I would take him with us so he c the music. He is very fond of the beautifu appreciative of kindness shown him, and co thank me enough for allowing him to go. I ly persuaded to return to the hotel, as Gusty nearly midnight. After landing the gond Gaston to his train.

Venice is the happy home of the ambitious mosquito, but it evidently is as unwelcome there as in our own homes. The beds are entirely covered with fine bars. of lace net, which you are careful to tuck very closely in around the mattress. After arranging yourself comfortably for the night you fall asleep to the chorus of other tones than the sweet ones which still linger in your ears. You can understand the words of this chorus more plainly than those in the barges, for the refrain always runs, "I can't get in, I can't get in. O! let me in, O! let me in."

We went to the Accademia (picture gallery). We saw Bellini's beautiful Madonnas and the "Presentation in the Temple" by Carpaccio; also scenes from the legend of St. Ursula, by the same artist, and the "Assumption of the Virgin" by Titian. These are among the loveliest in the Accademia.

From here we went to the boat landing to take the steamer for the Doges Palace. While waiting a funny little, short fat woman came in. She was wonderfully gotten up. She wore a plaid calico gown, ruffled on the bottom and quite short. The skirt was cut to form a pointed girdle at the waist line in front and was plain across the back. Her hair was jet black, though she was not a young woman. She wore it plastered tight to the sides of her head and drawn up in a tight knot high at the back. A black velvet ribbon was drawn around the knot very tightly and into that and the knotted hair were thickly stuck white-headed pins of almost the largest size. The effect was like a pin

cushion. She seemed to have a black wai outside one. Her sleeves were ruffled at t had ruffled caps at the shoulders. A huge collar, sailor shape, completed the dress. white cotton, open-work stockings, tan s immense white bows, which finished this costume. She was evidently of the peasant some of the numerous islands near here. jealous about her island being better than V talked to every man who would talk with h They, of course, saying all that was possib her. She was a character. When the stea she got in with others and continued her di board. She had every one laughing at her her on board when we landed at the Piazza.

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The palace is a work of art in its carvings tiful paintings. The pictures of one room a by Paola Veronese. In the room where the Ten sat is a locked closet, quite small. On t used to be a marble lion's head with open mo sons wishing to enter complaint against wh fended them could drop a note in the open m the sitting of the council the closet was op note read, discussed, and the fate of the p cided. Some were imprisoned, while others. out of the way, as the council designated. Ev life was in danger in those days. No one was We saw the great council chamber with painting on the wall, "Paradise," by Tintoretto