We overheard them give their order in Italian. In a few minutes Gusty went over to them and asked if they could tell her the name of the popular Italian dessert. They replied as nearly as she could understand, "Zabyoni." It is made of the yolks of eggs beaten into hot Marsala wine, and is delicious, Gusty thinks. The ladies told Gusty they had been motoring in out-of-the way places in Austria, and strongly advised us not to try it, as neither hotels nor roads are good. In fact, are very bad, and the people not kindly. Before leaving, we drove by the cathedral and the Casa di Petrarca (the house of Petrarch), where the great Italian poet was born.

We motored on, passing through several old towns, coming to one perched on the top of a high hill. Apparently there was no way around it, so we climbed the hill. On reaching the piazza, or public square, we found ourselves in the center of the little old village of Montepulciano, and we could see no way of getting farther. It was their weekly holiday and all the village people were out, clad in their best array.

Seeing our perplexity, they crowded near us, endeavoring to help. We finally said:

"Orvieto." And they understood, pointing to the same road we had come up, and then motioning around the base of the hill, saying repeatedly, "Orvieto."

We nodded our thanks and proceeded to retrace our drive. Reaching the base of the hill, we found the continuation of our road as directed, and once more were on the way. Gaston was quite disgusted at the

Joss of time. We finally succeeded in ets, and then commenced another is also one of the many hill towns in Italy

ORVIETO

It was almost fark when we reached to once fortified and part of the wall stil: arriving, we soon found the Palace Hotel the White Eagle, and were soon comfort We had a fine dinner and Gusty had some Crieto wine. We slept well that nigh strenuous day.

Monday, September 1o. Gusty and I m start, and ordered a carriage for a drive. tired of waiting for it, and walked on. le for it to come to the cathedral for us, as v told it was only a few minutes' walk fror We found it four or five blocks away. I morning, and having on heavy coats, this not conducive of comfort. The carriage cathedral before we did, as we had stop way to buy postcards and bright-colored sha the peasant women wear on their heads. warm, so decided to take our drive first, g the carriage. The driver took us to the w went out on one of the battlements, where fine view of the plains. Then we drove to park, which is over an

old fort. I sat d

a tree, while Gusty went to see an old well.

on returning, it was not worth the walk. We drove round the town for a half-hour, then went to the cathedral. On getting out here, we told our driver to wait for us. Fortunately, I took all of my little packages with me as I left the carriage, and we were hardly out of it before he drove away like a flash. Gusty called, but he either did not or would not hear. We went into the cathedral, which is very handsome, considered even more so than St. Mark's, Venice; but I could not see it. It is built in quite a different style from that of St. Mark's, being the Italian gothic. It has alternate layers of black and white stone. The facade is one mass of sculptures and gorgeously-colored mosaics. In the interior of one of the side. chapels, called Cappella Nuova (new chapel), is beautifully decorated with frescoes of the last judgment and figures of the apostles and prophets by Fra Angelica and Signorelli, another of the famous Italian artists.

We left the cathedral, and walked to the hotel, as our driver had not returned. I was provoked and told Gusty not to pay for the full time charged. We found Gaston waiting and were soon seated, our luggage put in place, and we descended from Orvieto down a winding road till we reached the level plateau, having fine views all the way of the old town we had just left. We passed around Lake Volseme, which is almost circular and is in the mouth of an extinct volcano. Its shores are bleak and bare.

We reached Viterbo, stopping for lunceon at the

T

Grand Hotel, just inside the gates.

old town, with its walls and gates still sta After luncheon we took the young so prietor as a guide and drove through the ing down the main street, through the lar saw the Palazzo Municipale (town hall), handsome entrance. Then on through another large piazza. In this stands ar called the Palazzo Vescovile, now almost quite picturesque. It was in this place of the popes of the thirteenth century y Adjoining the palace is the cathedral. We through by an old Italian woman, very ta we could not understand one word she sa way back we passed through narrow str piazza's in nearly every one. Saw a

fountain.

We wanted to go out to the Villa Laute, home of the Duchess of Laute, an Americ Our drive, however, occupied a longer tin anticipated, so we returned to the hotel a our little guide, left Viterbo by the same ga entered. We followed the winding road for tance, finally turning into the one leading

ROME

We commenced climbing the slope of Mons Ciminio almost at once. It was quite warm and Gaston had to make frequent stops to fill the tank. He had filled it before we started, but when nearly at the top of the hill I saw him looking anxiously around and knew he was looking for water, but could see none. He put in some grease, and we went on to the top. Even then we had quite a little drive before we saw water, which was way down at the very foot of the hill. Gaston had to make two trips before the tank was filled.

We saw Rome some time before we reached it, as it can be seen a long distance, the country being flat and the city itself built on many hills. We arrived about 6 o'clock, and it was getting dark. We entered by the Porta del Popolo, passing through the Piazza del Popolo. Here is one of the many obelisks brought from Egypt. We passed many beautiful fountains. From the piazza we turned into the Corso, one of the main thoroughfares of the city. At this hour it presented an animated scene. We had a little difficulty in finding our hotel, and Gusty was fearful she had forgotten its location. She had not, however, and we drove to Hotel Quirinale.

Tuesday, September 20. Gusty and I went to the office and made some inquiries about sightseeing, and was told the day was a legal holiday and nearly every place was closed, it being the aniversary of the capture of Rome by the Italian troops, September 20, 1870;