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and were allowed to depart. We bade them good-by with the hope of seeing them in Paris, as they were to remain here several days, while we expected to leave in the morning. Our turn finally came. Some questions were asked Augusta, then papers were given to her, and we were allowed to depart.
On arriving at the hotel, Gusty handed the papers to the portiere, asking him what they meant. He replied:
"You are to present yourselves every morning at 8:30 to the health officers for examination."
Gusty replied, "Why, we expect to leave Rome tomorrow morning at 8:30.”
“Then go by all means,” he said, “and pay no attention to the papers.
It seems cholera was raging in Naples and at its worst just at this time, and we were not aware of it. It was certainly most fortunate for us that we did not take our car down to Naples. Had we done so, nothing could have saved us from being quarantined in Rome, as Gaston and the car's papers and passports would have shown where we had been. We were told people were dying by dozens in the streets, dropping everywhere. When in Switzerland we had heard rumors of cholera in Naples, and several hotels there were almost deserted, as visitors had left for their homes, but we had heard nothing further.
Sunday, September 25. We left Rome promptly to the minute at 8:30 A. M. It was not raining, strange to say, though it looked quite threatening. This finally passed away and the sun shone bright and clear. We did not make the time expected, the roads being heavy from continued rains. They are none too good in Italy at their best, though they are working on and improving them. For a while after leaving Rome, we motored over the same road we had entered by, stopping for lunch at the same place, Viterbo. We were a little late leaving and immediately commenced our climb over the mountain pass. We were told it was not long and the roads were good. The climb was not long, but was the steepest of any we had yet encountered, as it was almost perpendicular, with the exception of a few level places at intervals. We stopped on the first one, and I suggested to Gusty that we get out and walk leisurely up. This we did, but I had no idea how hard or long the climb was. I walked on till I reached the top, where I found a board and a level spot and sat down to rest. Gusty had walked a short distance with me and then returned to watch Gaston, saying she would soon follow on. I could hear the machinery snorting and protesting and finally knew it was working properly, and soon Gaston drove up, asking me to please get in. Not seeing Gusty, I motioned to know where she was, as he seemed anxious to drive on to the top while his engine was working, it being hard to start on these heavy pulls. He understood what I meant, and pointed down the mountain. I refused to go without her, and walked back to look for her. She was coming, but very slowly. I walked down, and on reaching her found her nearly exhausted
and out of breath. She kept on, with my assistance, and we finally reached the car and, getting in, we started. Gaston was frightened when he saw how exhausted she was, and was very contrite for having left her. It was only his fear of the car slipping and giving further trouble that had caused him to do so. In a little while she had recovered and was quite herself again. We had consumed so much time in the delays of our long climb, that instead of going to Sienna for the night, we stopped at a little village this side, called San Quirico.
We drove up to the little hotel. I was not at all prepossessed with its appearance, as the wineroom and office were combined and were filled with men at the tables, drinking and playing cards. Gaston had told Augusta before reaching there, if the place was at all favorable we had better remain over night than to ride over the Italian mountains; besides, we were all tired from our exertions. I had told Gusty that I would not remain at the hotel unless Gaston could have a room near us, as we were strangers in a strange land, all of us, and he was our protector. Gusty went in to make inquiries, and returned, saying there were three rooms on the third floor, which Gaston insisted that she look at before taking them. This she did, and returned, saying that while very primitive, they were scrupulously neat and clean. The usual crowd of
women and children had gathered around us, jumping on the footboard and tooting the horn. It did not last long here, for we engaged the rooms and, driving in front of the steps, we got out and went up to the second floor into what I suppose was the dining-room, as a large deal table occupied the center and chairs were arranged around the sides of the room. late and our dinner very poor, consisting merely of a very thin vegetable soup, macaroni, bread and wine. I ate some bread and butter and had water to drink, for I do not care for wine. The hotel seemed to be built in a solid rock. The floors of our bedrooms were brick and were as cold as Greenland's icy mountains. I managed to write a couple of letters before I retired, but they were quite brief, as I feared taking cold. Our beds were very high, very hard, and our pillows harder, but the coverings were ample every way. The bed and pillows might have been down, for all were alike to me that night, as I was no sooner covered up snugly than I was sound asleep, and only awakened when the sun shone through my window in the morning.
Monday, September 26. I have enjoyed a fine night's rest and feel fresh as a daisy. Getting up to close the window-shutter, I looked out to see what manner of village we were in. The hotel looked exactly like a picture I have at home. It is of a large house built or made in solid rock. A man on a little donkey is in front of it, his hat is pointed, with a little feather in it. Always, from a child, this was my favorite picture, and I called it “Yankee Doodle.” This hotel bears a striking resemblance to my picture. I was not long in dressing, and neither was Gusty, while Gaston had at the first peep of day commenced working on his car. We did not make a very early start, feeling we could take it more leisurely, Sienna being only a short distance from here. Our breakfast was a very poor excuse, but after it we started in fine shape and had a delightful drive, reaching Sienna at 10 o'clock.
We went to Hotel Royal, and, making ourselves presentable, called a carriage and drove for a couple of hours. We saw the cathedral, which is very handsome, being similar to that of Orvieto, as it is built of black and white marble. It is very handsomely decorated. We went into the library and saw some beautifully illustrated old books and lovely wall paintings; saw the chapel of St. John, which is also handsomely decorated. We saw many handsome old palaces, some elaborately decorated. This is a fine old town and is still surrounded by its walls and gates. Being built on three closely connected hills and where they join at the base is the center of the town and forms a large public square, called the Piazza del Campo. It is semicircular and slopes toward the center. Public gatherings were held here when Sienna was a republic. Their festivals were also held here, and at the present day, horse races in the summer. On one side is the Palazzo Publico