very old town, and its fortifications of the sixteenth century are still well preserved. We entered by one. of its four gates. It is famous for its fine olive oil.

Wednesday, September 28. We made an early start this morning, passing through the Piazzo San Michele, which in early days was the forum. It is in the center of the old town. We saw the Church of San Michele. This has bands of columned arcades across its west front, something like the Pisa Cathedral. Our drive. from here was through a lovely hill country, thickly wooded with chestnut trees. We stopped for luncheon at a little town called Castelnuovo di Garfagnana. (The name is longer than the town.) At the Albergo Il Globo (Globe Hotel). The luncheon was typically Italian; macaroni, etc. After leaving here, we commenced our ride over the Apenine Mountains, not far from where we crossed two weeks ago. This is a long, beautiful ride, and we only tried to cross and get into the valley on the other side before dark. This we succeeded in doing just as dusk settled down. Gaston tried to light the powerful center lamp, but was not successful, so lighted our side lamps and our back light of red. It was very difficult to see through the night. Gaston was very tired and Augusta and I helped him watch. We passed many ox carts and donkey teams, all without lights, some of the drivers being asleep. It was extremely hard for us and we stopped every little while to inquire our way. There were so many cross roads it confused us. Every one we met was interested and kindly anxious to assist us.

One Italian gentleman in a small village came car and after talking a few minutes with volunteered with our permission to go on with the next village and show us the way, saying friends there, of whom he could borrow a whee turn home. We accepted gladly. I do not see h could have possibly found our way without hi as the cross roads grew more numerous. Ga splendid, but he was very tired to-night. The man left us at this little village and we follo bicycle with a lantern, which led us into Reggio

REGGIO

We had a little difficulty in locating Hotel A Posta, and even when we did, we found it diffic get accommodations, the hotel being in a disma state, as it is being modernized and remodeled, so obliged to take the accommodations they could The hardware was not all in place, some doors without knobs or locks of any kind. I had a large room, with knob and lock. But there was no fast of any kind on Gusty's door. She said she wa afraid. I don't think either one of us enjoyed a good night's rest.

Thursday, September 29. We left early and h fine drive, as our motor was working perfectly. stopped at White Cross Hotel, Parma, for lunch. fore luncheon, we took a carriage and drove to cathedral to see Correggio's frescoes of the Assu

tion in the dome. This is a beautiful painting, with numbers of figures in it, but it has been injured by dampness and is so high up that it is difficult to see it plainly. Parma was the home of Correggio, and many of his finest paintings are here.

We left after lunch, passing through Piacenza, which is quite an interesting old town. It has a public square in its center, as usual. We saw the Palazzo Municipaleo (town hall). This has a large arcade on the ground floor. We drove by the cathedral, which has three porches in front, with columns resting on lions, and passed the Church of San Sisto. The Sistine Madonna was painted for this church and was there for a long time, and then sold. This can not be done now, without permission of the German govern

ment.

MILAN

On leaving, we crossed the Po river on a pontoon bridge. It was late evening when we reached Milan. We had not wired for rooms, as we felt there was no occasion for doing so. When we drew up in front of the hotel the porter came out, asking if our rooms had been engaged. On learning they had not, he said. it would be impossible to accommodate us, as the hotel was full and so was the town, it being aviation week. He kindly said he would 'phone to a hotel not far away and try to engage rooms for us. He was successful, and we drove on to Hotel de la Ville. We asked

for a room for Gaston and was promised or in an hour the poor fellow came to our door they could not give him a room and he had beer ing one outside, but had not been successful He then left for another hunt.

I wa

Friday, September 30. Gaston came in the m to get his order, and said he had found a room station, but I do not think he slept well from his I am sorry, as he was very tired from the long day. We called a carriage, driving first to the b ful cathedral. The exterior is like a piece o work. Even the roof is marble. The interior i in coloring and decorations. The vaulting is supp by fifty or more pillars that have niches in ther statues instead of the ordinary capitals. In the there are enormous stained glass windows. It i of the largest cathedrals in the world. tremely anxious to see the "Last Supper," b Vinci, but the church, where it hangs, is too far for us to try to go, as we start on our drive sh On our way to the hotel, we went into the galleri Vittorio Emannale just across the Plazze from cathedral, or (duomo). This is one of the finest largest arcades in Europe. It is a popular prome being protected from both rain and sun. The shops are in this arcade. Returning to the and finding Gaston ready, we packed and started was a most delightful ride to Como on beau Lake Como. The lights of the Italian lakes are lo so soft and blue. We lunched here at Grand H

Phinius. Leaving after lunch, we had a charming view of the southern end of the lake. It being narrow here, both sides are plainly seen. It is heavily wooded with dark green chestnut trees, and handsome white villas of the Italian aristocracy are numerous among them, as they spend their summers here. Not far from Lake Como we crossed the Swiss frontier and passed the customs at Chiasso.