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dukes held their magnificent courts here in Dijon. We saw the exterior of the old ducal palace, which is now used as the Hotel de Ville (town hall). It has been greatly changed, but one of the large old towers, as well as kitchens, still remain. We saw some of the old churches and a statue of St. Bernard, the famous French abbot, who preached the second crusade. He was born just outside the city walls. We bought some gingerbread, as this is a specialty here, and had it for gouter. We motored on to Auxene, stopping at Grand Hotel de la Fontaine over night.
The next morning, Wednesday, October 5, we started in high spirits for Paris. After leaving Auxene, our road followed the Youne river most of the way. We passed through several old towns on its banks, one being Sens. Here we saw the Cathedral of St. Stephens. There are two fine sculptured doorways in the west front. We arrived in Monteran for lunch at Hotel du Grand Monarch. This is the worst and the most ill-kept hotel it had been our misfortune to find. We saw no one on entering the office, and could find no one, not even when we looked into the bar or smoking-room. We kept on through to the diningroom, which adjoins the bar.
There are a ber of both large and small tables in the room, fully set, ready for the meal, one waiter for all the tables. We took our seats at a table near the door, and soon
every table was filled. Some few were women, but nearly all were business men who evidently came here regularly for their noon lunch. I thought the one waiter did remarkably well under adverse circumstances. Gusty made a fine meal but I could not. I took bread and butter, and stopped that after while, as every time the waiter came to fill our glasses or wait on us in any way, he would pick up my piece of bread in his fingers and put it in another place. Then I would take a fresh piece of bread, so on until at last I grew desperate, and when he came again, I covered by bread with my own fingers so he could not touch it. There was no place for us to wait but the dining-room, and as soon as Gaston was through his luncheon we started on our trip, though, as usual, he had a little work to do on his car first. We went like the wind now. Just after we left Monteran crossed the River Yonne again, for the last time, as it flows into the Seine at this point.
Just outside of Paris a tire burst, which delayed us, but we arrived at 4:30. This time we stopped at Hotel Chatham. This is an up-to-date hotel-quite swell, in fact. After locating and changing into more comfortable clothes, we were ready for our dinner. Miss Fisher joined us for this meal, and we had a jolly time. Mr. Millet called in the evening, and he seemed to think we had completed a remarkable trip, as we had left Paris and returned there on the dates set, and had made the entire trip scheduled, with the exception of Geneva and Chamoniux. We had motored about 3,700 miles, visited five different countries, and crossed ten different mountain passes.
Thursday, October 6. We are to retain our limousine, as we had plenty of kilometers left from our trip. We came down to go sightseeing, and found our car so spic, span, clean, and Gaston in a new, up-to-date livery, that we hardly recognized him at first. Our car had arrived yesterday, dust-covered outside and in, and Gaston was in about the same state. He is a goodlooking Frenchman and we feel quite proud of him in his stylish motor livery. We spent the day shopping and getting ourselves presentable once more. Gusty worried every minute that was not spent sightseeing. Without exception, she is the worst person to shop with I ever knew, as she is just like a man about it, for they, with few exceptions, despise shopping, and generally buy the first thing shown them whether it is what they want or not. This is Gusty to a dot, and she looks angry all the time. She says she is not, but I know, for I have seen her.
Friday, October 7. After luncheon we drove direct to Dome des Invalides, Napoleon's tomb. It impresses you with reverence, and you involuntarily offer up a prayer. The tomb is of red porphyry and rests in the crypt, but it can be seen plainly on all sides from the open, circular railing on the floor above it. The massive bronze door leading into the crypt is always guarded by an old soldier, one of the few left in the Hotel des Invalides. The chapel at the back is still in use. It has hundreds of battle flags hanging from the roof, high up, some in tatters, others with only a few colored threads remaining on the staff. The building itself was once a church. It has a fine gilded dome which can be seen from almost any part of the city. The Hotel des Invalides was erected by Louis XIV, seventeenth century, as a home for old soldiers. During Napoleon's time it was crowded with them; now only those wholly incapacitated are admitted. The few remaining will stay till they pass away. When that time arrives, the place will probably become a museum, as the greater part of it is so now. The church of Les Invalides consists of two parts, the dome Des Invalides, named from its magnificent dome that covers the tomb, and the Church of St. Louis.
From here we drove to the Pantheon. This great building was erected as a church to be dedicated to St. Genevieve, whose shrine once stood in a smaller church on the same site. Soon after its completion it was decided to consecrate it as a burial place for eminent men of France. It was then named the Pantheon. Later Napoleon restored it as a church, and each new government as it came into power changed it. Since the burial of Victor Hugo here in 1885, it has remained the Pantheon. It has an immense dome with fine colonnades extending across the west front. The interior walls are beautifully decorated with frescoes by modern French artists. Many of them represent scenes from the life of St. Genevieve, Joan of Arc, St. Louis, and St. Dennis. A number of noted men are buried in its crypt, Voltaire among them. From the Pantheon we drove to the Church Etienne (St. Stephen). This is one of the many old churches of Paris. There is a beautiful Rood screen in sculptured marble here. In one of the side chapels stands the shrine of St. Genevieve. This is a handsome modern shrine in gilt. The original once stood in this church, and was to have been placed in her church, now the Pantheon. During the revolution it was melted down. Many candles are always kept burning here, lighted by those who come to pray at the shrine of the patron saint of Paris. From here we drove to the Cluny Museum. This was once the town house of the Abbots of Cluny, and is a perfect example of the city mansions of the fifteenth century. It has an exterior courtyard surrounded by a wall. On one side of the court is an open arcade. On the front of the mansion is a tower, rising from the ground in which is the winding stairway. The interior, with its paneled walls and beamed ceilings, is just as it originally stood. The different rooms are all filled with a rare and beautiful collection of art of all kinds. Finely carved panels and chests, exquisite lace of rare value, beautiful ivories, fine porcelain and potteries are seen. On the second floor, which is reached by an old staircase as well as the one in the circular tower, brought here from another old place. We saw the room occupied by Mary Tudor after the death of her first husband, the old king, Louis XII.