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walks or path almost to the castle. The drive to and from Blarney Castle is beautiful along the River Lee and through numerous hamlets, where we had a good view of peasant life. They are not a cleanly race, but, like everything else, there are exceptions. Their houses, or shanties, are all low, most of them having thatched roofs. Pigs and chickens have the freedom of the one room with the other inmates. Even in the larger houses, the sty and house are under the same roof. The hedge rows or hedges in Ireland are different from England, being built of stone and covered with earth and sod, wild flowers growing over all of them. Much of the earth of Ireland is peet, which is of two kinds, red and black. The black they seem to roll into balls about the size of our cannon balls, while the red is cut into squares about the size of our bricks.
I suppose these balls and cakes are dried before use, as I saw great beds of both kinds left in regular order, as if for drying. I cannot se how they or anything else can get or keep dry in Ireland, as it rains daily. Returning to Cork, we drove by St. Ann Shandon, where we heard the bells of Shandon, which the sexton rang for us. We also saw St. Finn Barr's cathedral. This is a Protestant cathedral and a handsome modern building. There are many handsome buildings in Cork. In the afternoon we went by train to Bantry. We had a tea basket put in our compartment en route, so Gusty could have her 4 o'clock tea.
BANTRY, GLENGARRIFF We arrived at Bantry at 7 o'clock, taking a motor coach to Glengariff. The coach was a large one, holding twenty-five people, and was very easy riding. We had a good chauffeur, who took advantage of the best roads and drove slowly over the rough ones. joyed this ride greatly, the scenery being rugged, wild and beautiful. At Glengariff we stopped at Eccles Hotel, which is a very good hotel, situated on Bantry bay. It is very pretty here at low tide, showing mossgrown rocks and seaweeds. This is one of Ireland's favorite resorts. They have, as usual, numerous stands of souvenirs for sale. I got a harp of Erin and a shamrock pin tray, both of carved bog-wood. Glengariff is said to be one of the most beautiful spots in Ireland, as there are fine views of both mountains and sea. Either here or motoring to Killarney lakes, I lost my D. A. R. pin. I made every effort to find it, but did not succeed.
Wednesday, June 8. We left, after luncheon, by motor coach for Killarney and the lakes. I was anxious to secure seats in the same coach that we had come on, but it was filled immediately and we were obliged to take the smaller one. This holds eighteen passengers. I was on the back seat with a gentleman and his wife. Gusty's seat was just in front of mine. The young Irish chauffeur was most anxious to start before the larger coach, but we left together. Our chauffeur coming into Parkinenas first, where we all stopped for tea, at the Grand Southern Hotel. This was quite an attractive place. Tea was served in the garden. As in the morning, there was rivalry which should start first, our man was the first out, but our side curtains becoming loosened, he was obliged to stop and put them properly in place, this taking some ten or fifteen minutes, which gave the second coach the start. The wild young Irishman tried in vain to make up
the lost time, and it was from here that I took one of the wildest, roughest rides I ever experienced, all roads being alike to this fellow in his mad endeavor to catch up with the larger coach. I was fearful we would meet with some accident, and of course was holding tightly to the side, but the bumping, jolting and knocking I received made my neck and head seem about to be severed. I really suffered agonies.
KILLARNEY AND LAKES
When at last we reached Killarney and Lake Hotel on the lower lake, I went to bed as soon as we secured our rooms. The lady and gentleman on the seat with me happened to be a doctor and his wife, as Miss Binford found at dinner, they being seated at table together. I was too miserable and did not want anything sent to me. The doctor told Miss Binford I was so frightened that it had made me ill, and when Gusty told me, I was furious at the doctor for saying so, and just as furious at Gusty for believing it, as I knew my illness was caused from the dreadful jolting I had received. I missed most of the beautiful scenery on this ride, as it was too fast and furious for me to pay much attention to its beauties. I did see the upper lake, which is said to be the most beautiful one, and also the best known from the Irish song of “Kate Karney,” who truly lived on the banks of Killarney. On this ride we saw quantities of yellow iris, foxglove, and numerous fuschia hedges. Lake Hotel is most beautifully located at the head of the lake, giving a sweeping view of it. The grounds are large and well kept.
Thursday, June 9. I arose, feeling all right and enjoyed a good breakfast. Taking a victoria, we drove to Muckross Abbey, a picturesque old ruin, ivy covered, and as seen in connection with the lake, form a charming picture. From here we drove to Ross Castle, another ivy-covered and picturesque old ruin. Both of these are but a short distance from the hotel and on our way to the station, where we took the train to Dublin. We found all compartments about full. As we were obliged to change cars we could not secure through seats. At Mallow we could only find two unoccupied seats, and both of them were backward. There seemed to be one front seat not occupied, and Augusta asked the lady seated next to it if it was vacant. She replied, "No, it belongs to my husband." They were Americans. He appeared just before we started, and then disappeared into a smoking compartment, and we saw no more of him until our arrival in Dublin. His seat was reserved for him by his wife, while I was obliged to ride backwards the entire distance. Gusty was very much provoked about it.
Arriving in Dublin, we drove to Hotel Shelbourne, and as Augusta went to the office this same American pushed in front of her in his effort to secure rooms. This was more than she could stand, and she told him it was the first time she had ever met with any discourtesy while traveling abroad and that then it had come from her own countryman. The clerk realized what had happened and gave the man a withering look, but it was too late to do more. We were not able to secure good rooms here, as the best had been taken, so we went over to the Metropole. We found indifferent rooms here, but took them, as our time was limited, and we only expected to sleep there. I had been wanting a shampoo for quite a while, and thought as this was a large city, it was best to have it done while here. Augusta went to the office to make inquiries regarding the best people for this work, as I wanted
done in my room. Everything over here has to be done through the office, and they promised to send me a reliable man. He came very soon, but when I asked for a dry shampoo, he seemed nonplussed, and said he was not prepared for it, but would go get the preparation. I told him what I wanted was powdered orris root rubbed thoroughly through the hair and on the scalp and then brushed till thoroughly