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rhododendrons in great profusion grow all through the woods. The bloom is a pinkish lavender, though I have seen lovely crimson, pink and white ones.
Going back to the city we drove to Rows, these being row after row of houses which extend out from the first floor up, forming a covered roof over the sidewalk, from which you can enter small stores. The better class of stores being in the upper row, and present the appearance of a gallery. We went up into a pastry shop and had tea and strawberries. We bought postcards in the Rows. They were in preparation here for giving the Chester pageant, which is really a panorama of events showing the early history of Chester up to the present time. Gladstone's house, Hawarden (Hardin) Castle, is quite a long drive from Chester, and we regretted not having time to see it. We left here in the early morning, June 14, by train for the English lakes, passing through the old town of Lancaster, were we had luncheon baskets put in our compartment. We reached Windermere on Lake Windermere early in the afternoon.
Here we took the coach for Keswick (Kesick). Passing Lake Windermere to the little town of Ambleside, by the small lake of Rydal Water (Wordsworth's house is near here), by Grasmere Lake, where Wordsworth is buried in the churchyard. Then up the long hill of Dunmail Pass, and from here we saw the lake of Thirlmere. This lake furnishes the city of Manchester its water supply. While resting the horses here a number of the passengers, Gusty among the rest, got off to go up and see the smallest church in Great Britain. I was contented to look at it from the coach. While we were waiting, a woman came from some near-by house with a tray of cake and tea. Gusty returned to the coach in time to receive her share. As we were descending the opposite side of the pass, we had a fine view of the mountain of Helvellyn. Also the vale of St. John. We finished our drive down to the Keswick valley and the Keswick Hotel, an excellent large hotel, finely situated, in lovely grounds and gardens. We were nicely located, having a fine view from our rooms of both village, valley and mountains. The twilight here lasts very long. Gusty read plainly by the window at 9 P. M.
Wednesday, June 15, we left at 10 A. M. for a coaching trip to Buttermere, passing Derwent Water Lake and Lodore Falls. I think there were a few inches of water falling over, but am told in the spring during the spring rains the falls are quite pretty. We saw Boulder Stone. This is an immense stone that has fallen from the top of a neighboring crag. Its weight is about two thousand tons. It is perfectly balanced, and a fine view of the lovely valley is had from its top. Gusty went up with the others for the view. We have a number of these wonderfully balanced stones in our own country, Washington Boulder just out of North Conway in the White Mountains, being one of the largest. We coached through the beautiful valley of Barrowdale, and at this point our steep climb up the mountain side commenced. The gentlemen were requested to get down and walk, as we were on our way over the Honister Pass.
It is a steep and hard, rugged climb. On reaching the top of the pass, the gentlemen were permitted to return to their seats on the coach, and we drove on down to Buttermore to the Fish Hotel, where we lunched and rested till late afternoon. Gusty and I wandered through the little village, stopping at the post-office, dry goods store, confectionery, news stand and bakery, all combined in one, and in a little room about ten by twelve feet. We bought postcards here. Our party returned to the little hotel for tea just before starting on our return trip. When seated once more in our coach, the driver turned to us, saying: “We will take another road to the Newland valley.” The gentleman asked him in a very earnest manner if the road was steep as the one we came over. He laughed and replied, "You need not get out and walk." We reached Keswick Hotel about 5:30. This drive is considered one of the finest in Great Britain. We left Keswick at 6 o'clock by train for Glasgow, making two changes, at Penrith and Carlisle. We dined on the train and had a very good meal.
Reaching Glasgow at 10 o'clock P. M., we found the city full and hotel full of conventionites. Fortunately, our rooms had been engaged by wire at the Central Station Hotel, which adjoins the station. This hotel is both excellent and convenient. We went directly to our rooms, having had a strenuous day. Gusty informed me she would take an early breakfast, as she takes the very light usual foreign meal of tea and crescents with marmalade or jam, but she said she would have a place reserved for me when I was ready for breakfast. I bade her good-night, with the full determination of getting up in time to breakfast with her.
Thursday, June 16. Alas! I was too tired, the room cold, and the bed too warm for me to rise as early as I intended, and before I had quite completed my toilet Gusty knocked at my door, telling me she was ready to go down whenever I was, and we started in a very few minutes. On reaching the seats she had reserved, I saw some ladies were occupying them, and as I was turning to tell Gusty, the elder lady turned toward me. I saw her eyes grow large with a pleased, surprised look, and I recognized Mrs. Chipman and her daughters from home. We all enjoyed meeting and breakfasting together. Then, our plans having been fully arranged for the day, we left, agreeing to meet in the evening and talk over future plans. We went direct to the American Express office to get our mail, which had been ordered there, this being the first I will receive since starting on my trip, as we are traveling rapidly and our stops too short to receive it earlier.
I had mislaid the address of two friends of my cousins living here, whom I had promised to see. Gusty called on the clerk to assist in looking up the names and addresses, then calling a carriage we drove to the first address and found it was the one we wanted. The daughter was at home alone, but she invited us there for tea that evening. We went from here to the cathedral. The stained glass is beautiful in this building, most of it being modern Munich glass. We went into the crypt. Sir Walter Scott describes this in his novel “Rob Roy.” Leaving here, we drove to the station, taking the train for Ayr, Burns' country. Here we lunched at the King's Arms Hotel, then took a carriage and drove to Alloway, going by the old kirk, where Tam O'Shanter looked in the window and saw deil and hags dancing. In front of the kirk is a fount built in its walls, one-half being inside, the other outside. Tradition says children born in wedlock are baptized inside ; while the unfortunate ones born out of wedlock are baptized on the outside. We also saw the Brig O'Doon, which Tam just cleared in his wild ride from the witches that