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on a high, solid rock. The cause of our haste being to catch the one through daily train up the highlands, and it left at 10:30 A. M., so our time was very limited for sightseeing. It was a steep climb up the rock to the castle gates. Here we took a guide who was an old Scotch artilleryman. He was quite deaf, caused by his army life and experience. We found him bright and entertaining, quoting Burns, Scott and Scotch poetry very fluently. He pointed out to us Stirling bridge, where William Wallace, the great Scotch patriot, defeated the English; and showed us the beheading stone on the hill, outside the castle walls. The battlefield of Bannochburn in the distance, where Robert Bruce and the Scotch army defeated the English army in the fourteenth century. We saw the Firth of Forth, which winds in and out past the castle walls. The tournament grounds are on the opposite side of the castle. He showed us the place where Queen Mary and her maids watched the sports that were going on in these grounds so far below them, through a peep-hole, from which she could look down, unseen herself. We saw the dungeon, and just outside was a small trap door, beneath which was dungeon after dungeon. Going into the first dungeon, which was larger than the others, we saw a small niche in its walls that our guide told us was a flue, and once had an iron door. This place was made red hot from a fire built in it, and prisoners were tortured there. We saw the room where Earl of Douglas was murdered by his king, and his body then thrown from a window. In the courtyard was an old sun dial, partially broken. The time used to be marked by iron wires or long nails driven into the stone, but no trace of which remains. Its age is unknown. We bade our old guide good-by with a fee, and then drove to Greyfriar's Church. Gusty at first said we would not have time to even go there, as I had insisted on looking over postcards with her, while she said she had made the entire selection for me. However, I found a lot of pretty ones that she had passed by, and was delighted accordingly. I did not want to miss seeing the old church, so told Gusty we would drive by it any way and have a peep inside. The trouble with her was she did not have time to look at every old tablet and name inscribed thereon. We saw where Queen Mary was crowned under the Arms. The old entrance to the church has been closed, and the Arms put just where the door had been, while an entrance has been made at the other end. From here we drove direct to the station and took the through highland railway coach for Inverness, the capital of the Highlands. The scenery on this road is the finest in Scotland. We passed through Perth, the wooded glen of Killicrankie, where the battle was fought. Burns commemorates this in his song, “The Braes o’ Killicrankie," and which our David Bispham sings so dramatically splendid. We were steadily climbing up the mountains. Some of these had patches of snow toward their tops. Reaching Inverness at 4:30 P. M., we stopped at the Caledonian Hotel.
We spent a quiet Sunday, June 19. Our rooms were at the back of the house, but fronted the river and afforded a fine view of the town. As we sat there Sunday morning, we heard fife and drums and looking out the window, saw a company of Cameron Highlanders on their way to church, they being stationed there for the summer. In the afternoon we took a short drive out to the cemetery, which is one of the sights, being situated on a high hill, and overlooking the surrounding country. It is called Tomnahurrich (hill of the fairies). It is a beautiful place. From here we drove down to the boat landing and saw the steamer, "The Gondolier of Glasgow," which we expect to take in the morning for our trip down the Caledonian canal. We continued our drive to the little city.
Monday, June 20. We left Inverness on schedule time, 7 A. M., taking breakfast on the boat. There is no escaping from here, as we were loched and locked. We passed from River Ness into Loch Ness. At Fort Augustus this connects with the Caledonian canal, which is a series of lochs and locks. The scenery was beautiful all along our trip down. It was somewhat marred at times by the heavy showers which continued at intervals all day. It did not take very long for the locks to empty. At every stop made for it some of the passengers, Gusty among them, would get off and walk to the next lock, go into the little shops, look around, buy postcards, etc. We left the boat at Banavie and took a dummy over to Fort Williams. Here we got our train to Edinboro, changing cars at Crinclarich, also at Callander. At the latter place we had a tea basket put on for us. This, to me, was the most beautiful ride of any I have taken so far, as it winds up, around and over high mountains, down again into valleys, passing beautiful lakes, rivers, brooks and waterfalls. The scenery all being wild and picturesque. I looked in vain for the Scotch heather, but there was none in sight, as it was too early. Although rugged and wild, the ground was thickly covered with green grass and moss that looked like velvet, it was so smooth and soft. It cleared for a while in the afternoon, then grew cloudy, and a fog rolled down, covering the mountain tops, giving to nature a queer, weird appearance. It turned so cold I felt certain it was going to snow. A number of the higher mountain peaks had snow on them.
We arrived in Edinboro at 9:30 P. M., still broad daylight, as in this part of the world night does not settle down until after 10 P. M. at this season of the year.
We were both tired, of course, for it was a hard trip, though a beautiful one. It always makes Gusty ill to travel up a height, and today has been no exception. A good night's rest will make her feel all right. On arriving here, we drove direct to the Royal Hotel, which is just across from the Princess street gardens. We located, and Gusty went immediately to bed. Glancing out of my window, I saw Scott's monument, which is not far up the street, and looking still farther, I had a fine view of the castle.
Tuesday, June 21. Gusty is quite herself, and after breakfasting, we took a hansom cab and drove up to the castle in a pouring rain. A guide took a party of us all around the outside, then showed us the part open to visitors, telling us to walk in. This castle is in the best state of preservation of any I have seen yet. It is now used as a garrison, the troops being changed every two years. The Royal Scots Guard are now stationed here, but most of them are away at present for maneuvers. I am disappointed that the entire guard is not here, as I had expected to see dress parade. We went in the large, fine old banquet hall, which is now used as a museum of armor. There is a grand old fireplace at one end. The high, arched, open-timber roof was filled with old flags of the different regiments hanging from it. At the opposite end from the fireplace is a handsome screen. From here we went up a flight of stairs to see the crown jewels. These are under a glass case and inside of a large iron cage, painted white, and is well guarded. At the top is a red velvet and gold pillow, with a circlet of ermine in its center, on which rests the crown of Robert the Bruce. This crown is a circlet of gold, heavily studded