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HADDON HALL AND CHATSWORTH HOUSE
From here we drove to Haddon Hall, the home of Dorothy Vernon. This is by far the most picturesque ruin I have seen outside. It is absolutely bare inside. The rooms, especially bedrooms, are small. It is a rambling old place, having numerous bay windows, and these, as all other windows, have small diamond panes of plain and colored glass. Nothing beautiful in the house, as the few pieces of furniture left in it are worn and faded. The ballroom is quite large. Dorothy's room is of fair size and has a large bay window opening out on the terrace. Opposite this is the door and flight of steps, down which Dorothy escaped. These steps lead to her walk, shaded with trees, and from this walk are steps down to the terrace. On the side toward the stream or river there are a series of terraces down to its bank. The hall is built on a high bluff, and is ivy covered. Beautiful views of the surrounding country are had from all sides. Chatsworth's House must be visible from here, as I had a glimpse of the Haddon turrets when near Chatsworth. This latter belongs to the Duke of Devonshire. It is modern and magnificently furnished. We saw a bust of Napoleon by Carnova. Beautiful wood carving by Grinling Gibbons. There are too many other rare and beautiful works of art to e en try to enumerate.
From Chatsworth we drove back to Chesterfield in time to take the afternoon train to Peterboro. Passing through Nottingham, where lace curtains are made, we arrived at Peterborough at 6:30 P. M., stopping at the Great Northern Hotel.
Wednesday, June 29, we called a carriage and drove to the cathedral, which is inside a large court of its own. Here also is the bishop's palace, and houses of the order, belonging to the cathedral. The walls and tower of this cathedral were found to be in an unsafe condition, so it was all taken down, each part numbered, and was rebuilt exactly as it stood at first. It was in rebuilding that the walls of the cathedral were found not solid. Why it was built in this way is not known. The altar and choir screen are of white marble, beautifully carved. The stained glass is modern, but lovely in coloring. The dome and vaulting are very handsome, being inlaid with gold and brilliant colors.
We left Peterborough at 10 A. M., taking a through train to London. Here we stopped, as before, at the Morley House. After lunch, we shopped for a while, then visited the British Museum. Here we saw the old Greek sculpture in marbles, much finer than any work of the kind now done. One can spend days there and feel well repaid.
Thursday, June 30, we found it raining in the morning, and this kept up with occasional thunder showers during the day, and in fact during our entire stay in London this time. We had intended going to Guard Mount, but it rained so hard that we went instead to Tate's Gallery. This is a gallery of modern English art. We saw portraits of celebrities of present day. After lunch we drove across London Bridge, Tower Bridge and saw St. Sepulchres Church, where Captain John Smith is buried. Our chauffeur did not know where to find it, though a London man, and Gusty had to direct him. Leaving here, we drove to the old Toffy Shop, which still makes the toothsome English toffy. Of course, we stopped and bought some. Yum, yum! but it is good. From here we went over to the National Gallery, spending an hour or so with the old masters. Going from here around the corner to the National Portrait Gallery, we saw a fine portrait of Oliver Cromwell, my ancestor. There is a famous portrait of Shakespeare in here. These and other celebrities and Englishmen of note down to the present time make a fine collection.
Friday, July 1, we went to Liberties. Gusty had told me what beautiful things I would find there. I had no idea it was so extensive. They manufacture silks and art goods of every kind and description. The store must occupy a block. I went wild with delight over the beautiful silks, laces, etc. I saw elegant jewelry, arts and crafts work, all most novel and artistic. Silks are, of course, their specialty. Gusty could hardly tear me away from here, but finally succeeded in getting me to Morleys in time to dress for dinner.
Saturday, July 2. We called a hansom cab and drove to the Parliament Houses, in a downpour of rain. These are magnificent. The House of Lords is gorgeous in red and gold furnishings. The House of Commons is in somber browns. The Crypt Chapel is very old, being erected by King Stephen originally. This had fallen into decay, but has recently been restored, and is very beautiful in its rich colorings, mingled with gold. Westminster Hall, the grand old hall of state, the oldest part of the building, is the largest hall in the world having a wooden roof unsupported. Coronation festivals used to be held in this hall. This is where the body of King Edward II lay in state after its removal from Buckingham Palace.
We called a motor at i P. M., which was quite a swell affair in gray and black, with chauffeur in livery, and drove down to Hampton Court. We went all through this historic old palace, seeing its picture galleries, music-rooms, bedrooms of state, etc. It is very large and the rooms are almost without number. By the time you have gone through the picture galleries you are tired out.
In passing the numerous windows and doors, you catch fine views of the beautiful gardens and surrounding country. The gardens are vast and there are lakes and fountains through them. I did not try to go over them, as the grounds were damp, and having been on my feet most of the day, I was tired. I missed seeing the celebrated old grapevine, as it was too far off. The enameled clock in the tower that faces the quadrangle still keeps time as in the days of old. The approach through the grounds, over broad walks, where grand trees arch overhead, is most charming. As we left the grounds, we stopped at a tea garden for Gusty's afternoon tea. Little summer houses were all around, with a center walk, the green grass being its carpet.
I took cake for company's sake, so Gusty would not feel lonesome. A small orchestra played some really good music. Two young women sang very well. Several people were in the different summer houses, drinking their afternoon tea. Presently a little old man came waltzing in at the gate with a beautiful bunch of American beauty roses in his hand, his arms extended, as if he were holding a partner. He was quite graceful. The head waiter hurried up to him, and I supposed he was a friend, but soon found he was trying to make him leave the garden, but did not succeed. After much talking and arguing, he ordered some lemonade, and when it was brought he took the full glass in his hand and commenced waltzing around with it. The waiter was in great distress, as ladies were present. The man evidently had partaken of some strong drink, just enough to make him feel good but stubborn. The waiter finally succeeded, with the help of an assistant, in getting him out.
From here we drove to Old Twickenham Town, and by the old ferry of song fame, and I only wish I could have heard the ferryman sing, "And 'tis but a penny to Twickenham Town." This ferry is still in use, being merely a very large rowboat. We saw it land some passengers.
The river is quite narrow,