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but winding and picturesque. Richmond Hill adjoins Twickenham. It is beautifully situated, being built partially on the hillside, overlooking the river and surrounding country. This was once a most fashionable resort, having a handsome palace, now entirely gone, and the village has settled into quiet country life. Just as we reached the city a hard thunderstorm came up.
Sunday, July 3, we spent a quiet day, resting and preparing for our trip across the channel, as we leave for the continent to-morrow. We did not attend church, but we heard the sweet-toned bells that rang out at intervals all through the day. We expected to meet our friends, the Chipmans, in London, as we knew we were all to be here at the same time. They did call while we were at Hampton Court, so missed them, but we are hoping to see them in Paris.
Monday, July 4. We left London at 9 A. M., still raining, going by train to Dover and crossing by steamer to Ostend, Belgium. I noticed that people kept looking at me in a curious way, but supposed it was because I was an American, which fact was very apparent. It was not until later in the day I discovered it was the tiny flag of my country I was wearing that attracted their attention.
Ostend is the fashionable watering place of Belgium, and one of the most celebrated in Europe, but we saw very little of it on account of the wet weather. It has a magnificent beach and fine casino where noted singers are heard during the season, making it a favorite resort for crowned heads. We took the train from here to Bruges, arriving at 4 o'clock P. M.
BRUGES AND BRUSSELS
We stopped at Hotel de Flanders, a noted old hotel. At the office, when arranging for rooms, I was surprised by being asked if we wanted rooms with bath. I quickly gasped "Yes." We found Bruges a sleepy old place. We saw the bell-tower made famous by Longfellow in his “Belfry of Bruges.” The bells are sweettoned and mellow. The belfry stands in the old market place. We saw the old town hall and other old buildings, with their wonderful carvings on the outside. Quite a number of buildings have shrines on them in a niche in a corner of the wall, or high over a door. A number of these buildings were erected at the time of the Spanish occupation. We went to the church of Notre Dame, saw there a statue of the Christ child by Michael Angelo, saw the beautiful tomb of Mary of Bergundy and that of her father, Charles the Bold, Duke of Bergundy. From here we drove to the hospital of St. John to see the shrine of St. Ursula, with its wonderful paintings illustrating the legend of St. Ursula by Menling. Canals run through and surround the town of Bruges. It is most picturesque and is called the Venice of the North. We are now in the land of shrines and windmills. We drove all through the quaint little town and then returned to our hotel. I had worn my little silk flag on the lapel of my coat all day, thereby calling the attention of many eyes to the fact that I was a good American citizen and proud of it.
Tuesday, July 5. After breakfast, we went out to visit the little shops to see what we could find. Lace is made here and I bought a little of it. We got some postcards, as I found good views of the town and canals. I also found here a complete line of the flag postcards of all nations. We left for Brussels at it A. M. by train. Passing through Ghent, another of the old Flemish towns, we reached Brussels a little after I P: M., stopping at Hotel Mengelle Astoria. This is an old hotel, but being modernized, and was hardly ready for guests, but we remained, as the exposition was at its height, and all hotels were full. Augusta's room was on the floor above mine. I regretted we could not be closer together, as I was not at all well, having taken a severe cold while sightseeing in the wet weather in London. Feeling the first symptoms Sunday evening, I took my usual remedies, and while they helped me, they did not cure.
We hoped to visit the exposition in the afternoon, but I did not feel equal to it, so took a drive instead. We visited the cathedral, which has fine old stainedglass windows. The pulpit is very handsome, being one mass of carved figures in wood. From here we drove to the Hotel de Ville, which stands on one side of the old Grand Place. It has a tall spire in the center, with smaller ones at either end. The Grand Place is one of the handsomest in Europe. other side is the old Guild House, very quaintly carved. This is the oldest part of Brussels. We went through Hotel de Ville, which is very old and handsome, the marriage-room being one of the handsomest of its many large rooms. It is paneled in oak, dark with age. This old building has been recently cleaned, restoring its frescoes and bright colors. From here we drove through the modern part of the city, passing the Palace de Justice, or court-house; the palace of the late King Leopold. There is a celebrated fountain here, but I missed seeing it. Afterward we went to a big lace house and saw them making lace, fine Brus
sels, duchess and rose point. Most of the work is done on cushions, with very fine needles.
Some was made by weaving bobbins back and forth.
Wednesday morning, July 6. We left Brussels, going to Antwerp, stopping there at Hotel San Antonio, where we located, rested and lunched. In the afternoon we drove to the cathedral. The pulpit here is very handsome. Four figures representing the four continents, hold the body of the pulpit, darkest Africa being wholly in the dark shade. The choir stalls are beautifully carved. We saw Rubens' two great pictures, the “Descent From the Cross," and the “Elevation of the Cross.” From the cathedral we drove to the Church of St. Paul. On the exterior of this church, but screened from the street in the churchyard, is a Calvary, extremely odd in conception and carved in stone. The interior of the church has many handsomely carved confessionals. From here we went to the Church of St. James, in which are many chapels, each one being of different colored marble. Back of the high altar is the chapel where Rubens is buried. We drove from here to Musee Plantin, once the home and printing house of the famous printer, Plantin. The house proper remains to-day just as in his lifetime. There are handsome tapestries. The furniture is dark, beautifully carved, and upholstered in Spanish